Ok here we go for real this time
Here are the 3 x 3 x 1/4 wall 6061 extruded way carriers with the original design channel between them; spacers are cut for the end; but they still need to be mill sq on the ends; these will be spaced between and 2 threaded rod draw screws will clamp them
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/Gantry1.JPG
The difference in the design will be a massive increase in travel for the X axis; from 23" to 33" or the max of the ball screw shown; to make this possible I'm going to be doing something many may frown on; the rails will be bolted to the underside of a 5000 grade Aluminum table top 1 1/2" thick 39.5" long and 15" wide; cast tooling plate is as some may know milled flat both sides; it has no internal stresses caused by rolling; so is a great medium for a table
The table with it's slides (THK SR35mm) will actually slide out of 2 blocks once a distance from center is reached; but as the slides will be still supported by 4 blocks I feel it will be acceptable; the rails will not be unsupported at the extreme limits by just 4 blocks alone; but 2 additional needle roller bearings per side will also help stop table droop; these will be placed at the correct distance so as the rail leaves the 3rd block it will already be started onto the needle roller
This way I can use a 39.37 (1 meter) rail to move 33"
The rail will be radiused for the wipers to allow the rail to enter the block as it once again moves to center position; all this might be something THK do not normally think is good for their products; but I want to try it; blocks are cheaper than long rails

Here is the rough assembly I posted earlier; the channel with the 1 meter SR25 rails can be seen; the gantry will most likely be higher and the 3/4 plate holding the verticals will have to be cut now; new supports made for the bases or if I can find longer stock; I'll replace the verticals; the SR25 rails for the Y axis have already been replaced by HSR25; and the Z axis is also using HSR25
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/Millroughass.jpg
Here is the Z axis once again 5000 Aluminum for the main plate to carry the motor/spindle etc
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/newmillz.jpg

Good move on mounting the y-axis rails on top and bottom to minimize the z-axis stackup.

it also allowed me to pre-load the setup to help control chatter

That Zaxis looks like a monster. How much does it weigh so far? What is your estimate for the finished Zaxis weight inclusive of spindle etc?

Jason

Z is about 25 lbs now; there is a 20lb 3/4HP Baldor going on it; the spindle will be massive too; it might be made from a Dodge half shaft I got the other day; we could not fix it so the customer simply got a new one from the dealer; I was about to pitch it when the idea of just how good a steel is this

I'll of course have to re-profile and shorten it up; but I think it might be useable; depends on the biggest diameter right behind the drive flange (thats also the area damaged) theflange of course will be removed
Even if I don't use it; the spindle design I'll be using is going to be a bit of out of the box thinking anyways; there will be pulleys for low speed and high speed (16,000 max once again) but also a VFD
The design will use both fixed length front loading/locking tooling and ER25 collets in the same nose; just the front lock ring will change for the change to ER25
This will be a test bed for this design; if it works good; me and Catch might offer to build custom spindles based on it

Back to the Z; I'll counter balance it like the mini mill

Hereis the cross spacer bolted in; the other end is the same; I'm also chking the clearances for both stepper drives and servos; of course the actual location will not be down there; but much higher as more cross webs still have to be added inside the channel; the old rail mounting holes will come in real handy

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/Gantry2.jpg

Stevie,

Can I ask a 'daft' question.

Is there an advantage mounting your rails top and bottom on your Z design ?

I'm in the planning stages on a machine and I'm just laying out the Z axis support etc.

I normally see the rails mounted on the front. As per attached pic.

Thanks for your input. (I have sooo much to learn !)

Cheers

You mean the Y axis rails
I did this for 2 reasons; first to let me preload the axis as my rails are not preloaded
2nd reason; it spreads the centerlines of the rails apart more; which gives better stablity

It will be interesting with the 3 block x axis setup. I am curious as to how it will work out as well. I wonder if it may be wise to slow down prior to contact with the block so as to ease the transition, esp if there is any preload in the blocks. As always I enjoy watching your progress through your pictures.

Hereis the cross spacer bolted in; the other end is the same; I'm also chking the clearances for both stepper drives and servos; of course the actual location will not be down there; but much higher as more cross webs still have to be added inside the channel; the old rail mounting holes will come in real handy

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/Gantry2.jpg


I would mount the rails on the base and the bearings on the table, would probably be more stable.

I´m planning a similar project so this thread will be in my subscribe folder :)

What size Steppers and spindelmotor are you using?

Best regards,
Gotis

The difference in the design will be a massive increase in travel for the X axis; from 23" to 33" or the max of the ball screw shown; to make this possible I'm going to be doing something many may frown on; the rails will be bolted to the underside of a 5000 grade Aluminum table top 1 1/2" thick 39.5" long and 15" wide; cast tooling plate is as some may know milled flat both sides; it has no internal stresses caused by rolling; so is a great medium for a table
The table with it's slides (THK SR35mm) will actually slide out of 2 blocks once a distance from center is reached; but as the slides will be still supported by 4 blocks I feel it will be acceptable; the rails will not be unsupported at the extreme limits by just 4 blocks alone; but 2 additional needle roller bearings per side will also help stop table droop; these will be placed at the correct distance so as the rail leaves the 3rd block it will already be started onto the needle roller
This way I can use a 39.37 (1 meter) rail to move 33"
The rail will be radiused for the wipers to allow the rail to enter the block as it once again moves to center position; all this might be something THK do not normally think is good for their products; but I want to try it; blocks are cheaper than long rails



3/4 HP

My $400 slab of 5000 Alum
Just before drilling the rail holes

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/Gantry3.jpg

Ok before anyone says "hey thats not square etc" nothing is bolted down yet as far as the table blocks/uprights/upright supports basically it's all just sitting there while i figure it all out
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/Gantry4.jpg

Several members asked about the bottoms of the verticals and how they attached to the base plate/plates; well all is revealed; 2 very long 3/8" cap heads (grade8) into the main web that joins the center web to the outside flanges
Then 4 x 5mm long caps into the flanges; these are mainly for rotational/tangental loads
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/Gantry5.JPG

Here you can see the 3/8" hold down bolt holes
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/Gantry6.JPG

I know this mixing metric with Imperial might confuse some; but I'm so used to thinking in both it's like 2nd nature
Plus it's whatever is on hand at the time; I don't care as long as it's cheap and I don't have to hunt it down

First Kick at the cat assembly

Still need to machine the pads for the rail blocks and the positions of the rollers needs to be fixed
Bottom of the base has to be skimed yet also

18Volt for scale'; this puppy is big; right now that is 4 1/2 ft tall
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/roughass.jpg

Thats lookin pretty good, a lot bigger than it looked a while ago.

are you making a t-slot table from that big peice?

what are the dimentions of the table you have for it?

How much does the machine weigh? it doesnt look like it would weigh too much.

Jon

The Verticals grew by 5" thats why it looks bigger

No there will not be tee slots; I don't really like tee slots; the same method as the small VMC will be used again; but with 50mm centers and bigger dowel and hold down screws
The table is 39.5 x 15 x 1.5 all in inches; SR35mm rails support the table; the others are HSR25mm

The X ball screw carrier (drive end) as you can see the X rail is about to leave the block as promised; the drop of the table at extreme travel is just 0.002" I will still be adding the roller brgs to help stop this
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/GantryXnut.jpg
General arrangement as of today
The new support table is just there for now (not bolted together yet)
I will pour a few hundred lb's of concrete into the base after the thing is dead level and the sides/ends are attached
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/Gantrytable.jpg
Z and Y ball nut carriers are in place like the X; but I still need to fab the brg supports
I'll not be updating like the mini mill thread; just big ones like this

Wow,
Looks awsome Steve! I've been toying with a future mill project. I have to subscribe to this thread and follow. Keep up the good work and keeping us posted, pictures are great!

Thanks Phil

The garage stinks right now as I painted the frame

Great work Steve!

After looking at the cropping of the pictures I have come to the conclusion that you are concealing a secret project. :D

Jason

Or Maybe Just Hidding A Very Messy Garage

Stevie,

Fantastic work mate.
I'll be following your progress closly as im interested in a very similar setup. I would like to add a 4th and 5th axis also, just to complicate things a bit more, lol.
Keep up the good work.

Mine will be 5 axis too
Just not sure on the design of the 5th yet; 4th will be rotary

I like the HASS cradle design with the 4th centered in the cradle
This lowers the 4th; and makes programming a bit easier

Stevie,

Awsome....I'll through down some CAD designs for the 4th and 5th axis and post them...we can bounce ides off eachother......i can also email u some stuff

Looking good steve. What are your intending machining with it?

I like the cradle, but one I really like to see in action is a tilt and swivel head. In reality if you know your 3d vectors and all you could program one of those by hand, all your drilling and whatnot. If you can get the angle, or start and end or many other ways, you got a vector in I, J and K and swivel the head in c and b directions to the angle.
One thing that might be hard to calculate for movements is tool offset from the axis of rotation.

I was thinking that if I had the cash at the time I actually get around to building my mill, I would buy an extra rotary table and throw it on behind the head and have a tilting b axis then I could throw a rotary table on for the a-axis.

Jon

I Was Over At Steves Place Checking Out The New Mill, This Thing Is Awesome,it Is Also Huge. Just Wanted To Say Good Job Steve. Cant Wait To See It Cut Something,and When I Say Something, I Mean Something Really Big!

Looking good steve. What are your intending machining with it?

I don't have any intentions of machining steel; I do that enough at work; my home stuff is more for the softer things in life LOL


Thanks Catch
I'll need you to help me lift it off; to do those changes we talked about

I wasn't implying it wasn't up to the job. Just curious what you had planed for it. I know you are interested in naval stuff, are you planing on milling hulls on it?

. I know you are interested in naval stuff, are you planing on milling hulls on it?

Exactly

I did not take offence; all my home stuff is for none ferrus materials

I like your robust design! I built a similar configuration with 3/4" x 8 " x 24" CRS uprights & a 3/8" x 3"x 6" rectangular tube spreader and it is Rock solid. It has the same travel as my B'port 2J but it is much more convenient to use with a 1" x 12" x 18" Aluminum table. You will also appreciate hiding your linears & ballscrews. On my next design I'm going to inc. PStockley's idea of using a Granite surface plate as a base. I'm temporarily (5 yrs) using a die Grinder for a spindle and it has worked out well! Enclosed is a picture. Will Smith Mission Viejo, CA

if you chk my thread on the mini mill; you'll see i do like to cover everything up

Well after placing the Gantry on the steel support; something came to light
I don't think I can fit a mill with just short of 8ft of travel in my garage; I can't take over the old ladies side of the place; so I guess the next machine will be scaled back
Me and Catch talked about this last time he was over!!

The Gantry is now 80" tall with Z at max up
This did provide for an interesting experiment
I mag'ed my DTI to the steel beam in the garage; and put the tip on the rail of Z
standing on the steel support (remember the bed is not bolted to the frame yet) I could move the Z by pushing about 0.03"
I then talked with Catch; it seemed a diagonal cross brace would solve this; they will run from the vertical legs to the steel base; as this will be bolted soon; this should complete a triangle and stop the deflection
Really 200lbs pushing on Z at max travel 0.03 is not bad; the bridge is only on with 2 screws per leg and is flexing for sure' plus I'm sure I was moving the base from the steel support a bit
with a 27lb 3/4 hp 3 phase and the Nema34 stepper plus the spindle with it's supports/brgs I think the head will not be moving too easily in deflection; also the rotation point of the deflection will be 1.5" below the table not at the top of the machine as per this experiment; the cutter will be about 30" below the point measured so I think it will not present a problem at all; but the braces will put my mind at ease; I have some nice 4130 AC grade tube for the braces

Ok lets get back to the build
Here is the X stepper with it's new mount
The stepper will hang down under the channel that joins the 3 x 3 box beams
Also in the shot is the bed/table assemble upside down; the access holes for the THK 35mm rail blocks can be seen
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/xaxismountG.JPG

Top of the shot is the base frame witha final coat of black enamel to stop rust etc
I was back in the shop this morning welding the 7/16th nuts on for leveling bolts; I also added the mounts of the diagonal braces mentioned earlier
Once the paint is dry and my wife clears her SUV from the other bay I'll snap a few more shots

Frame finished paint is still a bit wet
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/gantryframe.JPG
another view
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/gantryframe1.JPG
now with base and X attached; the 7/16" bolts worked great to level it in both directions; it's now level
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/gantryframet.JPG

Finished the x stepper drive mounting today; still need 2 washers for the adjust slots
That small pulley is not for tensioning; but is a wrap angle increaser
I like to ensure as many teeth are involved as I can get; i did have a timing belt snap over once due to lack of wrap
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/xdrive.JPG

Dang Stevie, that is one huge slab of aluminum!

What do you do for thrust bearings on your ballscrew? (sorry if I missed a post on this earlier in the thread)

I want to make a large gantry mill soon (so my wife will not keep trying to cut large sheets of plywood on my Shizouka bedmill) and am not sure what lengths to go to on the ballscrew mounts. My mill will be designed around scavenged parts. I got lucky with a 2 inch diameter 9 foot long ground ballscrew and nut, brand new for $125 and 6 sets of 9 foot long 2 inch wide THK rails with 2 carriages per rail, brand new for $50 each...monster rails...they weigh like 100+lbs each....really too big, but oh well.

Anyway, following your design with interest!

Hi Rick

Well there are angular brgs for all the ball screws; plus i have 2 reg rsr brgs on the none drive end
The ball screw is 10mm pitch for X and 20mm pitch for the Y-Z so 2-1 ratio on X and 4-1 on Y-Z
I want a 5mm advance for 1 rev of the stepper

The Slab is the first part I have had to buy as far as materials goes that was cut for me and not scrap (I do pay for the scrap) the slab was $400

Wow Stevie, this thing is going to be a monster when you get it finished.

That's pretty interesting about the wrap angle increaser, haven't seen that before - going to have to remember that when I order all my pulleys/belts for my machine. How did you plan/measure for the extra length?

trial and error
I just hung the motor down on the belt i had and sorta guessed at the lenght of the plate

trial and error
I just hung the motor down on the belt i had and sorta guessed at the lenght of the plate

Ah, you got the belt first! :) Makes sense...

The Z drive stepper and mount
This time I have to get the belt after the mounting; the wrap angle increaser is also a tensioner this time
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/zdrive.jpg
another view
The actual ball screw bearing mount also is the hard stop for Z down; upper most stepper 5mm mounting screw is also doing 2 jobs; screwed into the 1/2" plate and sticking through for the tensioner/wrap angle
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/zdrive1.jpg
3 screws hold the mount to the ball screw bearing block; the 1" thick brg block is screwed with 2 x 3/8" cap heads to the Z slide; another 5/8" thick block supports the other end of the Z axis ball screw
The screw is 20mm pitch; so 4-1 drive for 5mm advance per rev of the stepper; which is 650oz/in hold

note; I cut quite a bit out of the 72 XL pulley both sides; helps increase the accel rate

Wow, I must say, this is going to be a great machine. You could mill anything with that! Great job!

Thanks
I did get most of the Y axis drive done yesterday; new pics tonight

fyi, I think Stevie needs to expand his house.

So that we can all come live with him.

*grins*

G'job on the machine.

Looking forward to additional pictures.

Drive side; still needs the small pulley
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/ydrive.JPG
Other side
The track for the Argus chain is now on
Stepper is mounted 1-2-3 blocks holding the Z up; belt is ordered
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/ydrive1.JPG

Small update

Ok the spindle from a Dodge Dakota hlaf shaft; hows it going?
Well this is one tough mother of a shaft; the shaft has to be 55 rockwell and is tough on tools; it bends after every cutting; as the stresses come out
I machine a bit every couple of days; after now getting close to the 35mm for the main brgs and 30 for the offend; it has stopped moving; it's about 0.01 up for grinding
There will be 3 or 4 35mm 6007 brgs for the collet/fixed lenght tooling end
The 2 x 6006 will take care of the other end and take the drive loads

The Y axis drive is almost there too; I'll post pics tonight

Hi Stevie,

Not to hijack your thread, but how would you recommend going about making a small spindle for someone without access to a grinder (but I have a dv-59 lathe and a fairly large cnc vmc)? I want to make either an ER-16, ER-32 or maybe even a 5C type spindle for a small table top mill (I want a portable mill I can take places for demos, but larger than a sherline, and with ballscrews, etc.)

I was thinking about starting with a ER-32 extension collet with a 1 inch shaft (something like what they sell in Enco...they are about 7 inches long).

Hi Stevie,

Not to hijack your thread, but how would you recommend going about making a small spindle for someone without access to a grinder (but I have a dv-59 lathe and a fairly large cnc vmc)? I want to make either an ER-16, ER-32 or maybe even a 5C type spindle for a small table top mill (I want a portable mill I can take places for demos, but larger than a sherline, and with ballscrews, etc.)

I was thinking about starting with a ER-32 extension collet with a 1 inch shaft (something like what they sell in Enco...they are about 7 inches long).

Something like this?

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=137336#post137336

Hey Stevie,
it´s coming along nicely, always checking in to see if you have uploaded some new pics.

I have finished the X-axis (all steel) just waiting to see if my wallet will fill it self up so I can buy some steppers!

What do you think of the idea above?

JINX!!!

You mean within 20 minutes of each other we posted the same idea?


wow.

Posted it in another thread to avoid hijacking Stevies project log :)

Ah. Well, Stevie is cool and probably didn't mind the sidetrack spindle discussion, but good idea to get it going on another thread.

To swing things back around to Stevie's gantry though...I like the 123 blocks...are they going to be in the final design? :o

Serious question now though...on the aluminum I beams...did you find that they are not very flat, but rather dish a little crosswise (not lengthwise). I ask because I have some similar I-beam scrap stock I picked up at Boeing surplus that is a bit concave in cross section on each flat..perhaps as much as .01. I was thinking about running it through a mill pass so the rails would not be slightly tilted toward each other. (Not sure this is entirely neccessary though...)

Ah. Well, Stevie is cool and probably didn't mind the sidetrack spindle discussion, but good idea to get it going on another thread.

To swing things back around to Stevie's gantry though...I like the 123 blocks...are they going to be in the final design? :o

Serious question now though...on the aluminum I beams...did you find that they are not very flat, but rather dish a little crosswise (not lengthwise). I ask because I have some similar I-beam scrap stock I picked up at Boeing surplus that is a bit concave in cross section on each flat..perhaps as much as .01. I was thinking about running it through a mill pass so the rails would not be slightly tilted toward each other. (Not sure this is entirely neccessary though...)


I found the I beams quite good; the channel was dished; so i milled it
The vertical I beams are also milled to match each other possibly you can see it where the channel is bolted to the beams (page 2 post #17)
Not the Z axis is not balanced yet; while the stepper seems to hold it with no power applied; I still dont trust it to hold the 29lb's the Z now is at; once the 3/4 hp Baldor is on plus the spindle with housings; it will really need the counter balance
I'll post more on the spindle; but the grinding of them is not alway needed; I've made several spindles without a grinder; the small lathe is just turned 4140 prehard

Why not use one of the P5 motors that have a built in brake for the z axis? Unless you really need it counterbalanced. As a point, my Shizuoka VMC bedmill z axis weighs about 500lbs and is only held in place by a brake on the end of the ballscrew (no counterbalance or hydraulics). I run the Z axis at 200-300IPM using a Fanuc 5 dc motor which has about half the torque of the P5 1kW motors. My Z hasn't ever fallen....but oh my would it be scary if the brake failed...

My P5's are ear marked for a bigger mill

Plus i like the idea of no load on my ballscrews; works great on the mini mill

The Y drive complete
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/y.JPG
Here is the ground blank for the spindle; I'll be drilling through tomorrow (hopefully)
amazing it's almost the same height as my mini mill
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/gspindle.jpg

Bit more done on the spindle
Now it's bored and ground for the ER25 collets; there will be 2 lock collars made
One for the ER's and one for fixed length holders; the fixed length collar will have the drive dogs included; the ER collar will just be the nose taper for the ER's
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/Gspindle1.jpg

The spindle is drilled though for a 10mm draw bar

How did you bore that????

edit: I mean is it bored all the way through?

I drilled from both ends with a none relieved drill 0.425 dia I needed 9.75deep from each end
The center of the axle is about 37 rockwell; while the surface was 50-55 (guess)
The spindle was chucked and ran in the 3 point steady
I finished the ER taper with the compound slide; first bored with a small carbide boring bar; then ground it with a small toolpost grinder I made from a diegrinder spindle and a 15,000rpm motor

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/Gspindle2.jpg
tough to get a good pic and show the bore through
But it did line up great; about 0.002" out

Nice work Stevie. Are you gooing to do an auto tool changer like this, or just a power draw bar?

http://home.insightbb.com/~joevicar3/default.htm

it is interesting Mark

Not sure yet; I'd like to prove the spindle first befor I make it complicated
I want the head all enclosed too; so that design might not work into my plans

This mornings playtime
Mounted the igus for the Z axis feeds
I made 2 of everything so I can finish the Y/Z feeds
But now it's back to barrel production
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/Igus.jpg

Looks good, will that spindle be that full length shown? it looks as if its like 18-24" long.
what is the reason for having it so long?

Do you know if someone can make a motor out of a spindle like that? wind the windings onto the spindle and make a casing for it?(Im assuming thats what some of those cartrage spindles that have motors on them are)


Jon

It's 19.75 long
I wanted it that long for a stable cutter platform
The main thrusts will be taken by the 3 6007 brgs at the nose; but 2 6006 brgs will support the drive end; they will be split by 2 pulleys (L sized timing belt) one pulley will be 1-1 drive; but the other will be 3.25-1 to overdrive the spindle to at least 14,000rpm

Worked on the other Igus while the lathe made long cuts

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/y-zIgus.jpg

Cap inset is the same as the one on the spindle; I just wanted to show the 16tpi threads and the 30dgr for the ER25 collets
4140 hardened
The other cap is threaded almost the same; just shallower to allow it to clamp to the spindle end; this cap will be for the fixed length tooling; as the drawbar will be used there will need to be a way of holding the collets from just turning with the drawbar
So maybe a key; or a half circle milled into the bore
I have not ground the end or even deburred it yet
It's also a protector for the threads when the collet cap is not in use
Lets face it; bumping those threads at high speed would not be good; so I thought I could kill two birds with the same device

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/Gspindlecaps.jpg

Whooho
Brg's arrived; now i can start the housing
Those 6006 are wierd; look how wide the outer race is; whatever; they came at a good price $1.50 each same as the 6007
I got 6 6007 as I might want to replace them one day

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/GspindleBG.jpg

Don't recall either of those numbers liking the 14k rpm range.

what RPM are those good too?

hi

sorry to bring a old thread back to life , but i had to say stevie u do nice work.

hows the gantry mill working??

cheers

Don't recall either of those numbers liking the 14k rpm range.

what RPM are those good too?

According to the FAG bearing book; the 6007 is good for 14,000 with oil; the 6006 is even higher
I'll be pulling out the seals from the inner side of the brgs; so just 2 will have seals on one side only

I just stole my little girls Magnavox 17" LCD flat screen TV/VGA from her playroom
LOL
She has not turned it on in months
After removing the side mounted speakers and the base stand; I can envision the thing mounted on a swivel bracket with the Keyboard under it and mouse pad along side the keyboard
She seems happy enough; besides I just got her a new 27" for her bedroom
I also worked out the location for 3 Zeta4 drives and the VFD

edit
Put the speakers back on; I'll adda small DVD player to the list of stuff to wire into this machine; might as well enjoy long cuts; LOL; might have to use the headphone jack hehehehe

On the left we have the spindle housing
X marks the ref face for mounting; this face is dead inline with the brg bore
The steel end cap will be held with 6 x 6-32 screws (flat head grade 8)
The end cap pilot dia plus the brg stack is 0.001 longer than the housing diameter bored length that holds the stack; this will apply pre-load to the C25 clearance bearings
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/GspindleP.jpg
On the spindle you can see the lock nut (still needs C spanner slots) and the spacer collar
Both these are 304 stainless steel; brgs have the seals removed as needed for oil bath lub

Just finished the swing mounts for the Magnavox which will be for the computer and other things; here it is in the operator position; it can swing 85dgr and be flat to the machine
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/Mag.jpg

You can see i have started wiring the stepper cable too

hi stevie

ur calander is out of date or am i imagining this is a old thread

sorry

cheers

ps , but very nice work

what calander?

There is a join date in my bio info
This is my current build your posting to; what you see is where I'm up to

Well for some reason my fugi finepix will no longer transfare the photos to my computer; so there will be no updates with pics untill i can figure this mess out

I did install the spindle into the housing; the housing is bolted to a 3 x 3/4" x 161/6 long steel backer; that is bolted to 1/2" sub plates (both are ground flat)
I chked run out with the ER 25 collets; 0.0002" with a 1/4" solid carbide
Now as the 6-7mm collet was pretty much fully collapsed to hold 1/4" I think they might run even closer with a collet closer to the shank size
I still have to make the spindle support for the drive end of the spindle (6006 brgs)
But up to now I'm happy with it
I did stick a 5/16" length of brass up a collet and drove the spindle with my BD power drill to about 2500 rpm
Ran very nice

I like that monitor, a friend of mine has the same one. Are you gonna leave the speakers on there then?

About the camera, I am assuming you have tried some different usb ports, maybe even uninstalling the drivers and re-installing them. You could also try to get a card reader for the flash card.

That spindle and housing is looking pretty good. Did you by chance make any prints or models of this machine or are you doing it all through your own intuition?


Jon

I am building as per what I see in the scrap bin; I look at a piece of material and mymind just sees a part inside the block; wierd heh

I have a basic idea of what i want to make right from the start; but it's modified as i go to suit what I can scrounge/buy cheap LOL

I will be leaving the speakers as i'll build a DVD into the control box; might as well use the TV section too; if it's a long cut; I'll watch a movie

scrap the TV/vga idea
The res is really bad; can't get a good picture at all; ok as a TV
I already tore it off and gave it back to the kid

Now i'm looking for a LCD flat Computer mon

The camera still will not connect to the pc
Might be the cable (which is of course not standard) picked up a card reader today; took it back as it did not work with this pc
Could be XP in this pc has lost the abiltiy to read LOL

That monitor isnt putting out good video? my friends is putting out pretty good video on his. If you take a look at ebay, you can get 15" lcds for under $100

Thats kinda strange that your readers/cards arent working.

Jon

Just VGA is not good; TV is fine
1024 x 768 is hazy and not clear

I´m looking for a 15" touchscreen, a little pricey but hate getting dirt on the mouseball:)
Sure hope you solve the problem with your camera.

Looks like the cable
I pushed hard as i connected to the computer; just got the images before it crapped out again
I'll get a new cable

So here is the spindle with a 1/4" cutter being chked for run out
I did not exactly zero the dial; but it runs within 0.0002"
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/spindlechked.jpg
Here is the 0.003 gap for the nose to the end cap clearance; I'd hate chips to get up there and ruin the seal; so i made it really close
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/spindleclearance.jpg
Overall view of the nearly competed spindle
Just held with 2 c clamps for now
The small screw on the round part is for the oil level
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/spindleview.jpg

Steve,

Could you expand more on your design of the spindle? I am looking to do basically the same thing and I need a spindle capable of 10,000....

if could be that your tv/vga thingy isn't plug-and-pray so it set one of the interlaced resolutions by default for the vga and that's why it was all hazy. you should experiment with non-interlaced and different refresh rates (try 70hz and up). and your camera issue sounds like a driver problem. try re-installing it. if the cable was duff it would crap out as soon as you plugged it in.

The camera did crap out; I pushed the cable into the camera hard; it then worked; I already downloaded the latest drives from Fugi with no effect; the computer plays a sound when you turn it on DSC; it stopped doing that within 10 mins of transfaring another batch of photos
So I'm sure the cable simply gave up; must have broken 1 wire; when I push hard; it connects; I get the sound and as long as I keep pushing; I can transfare

As for the TV
I went through all thesettings; but it has to run 1024 x 768 for Mach3
On 600 x 480 it looked good
It was set for auto detect and moved to 1024 x 768 on it's own; I even tried over riding auto and set it to diff refresh rates; still looked like crap compared to my flat 19" LCD I'm looking at now

Hey if I'm putting all this effort into the machine; I want the best for the display

just wanted to add; the screws holding the pre-load end cap; are SS 6-32
I'll change these out for grade8 socket; but I have a hundred of the SS already; I use them for covers/etc; cause they look good

Whoooho

I just got Z moving; set for 5000 steps
I used a 4" G/Block and set the steps/mm to get repeats of Zero


I'm a happy camper

Hi
Stevie that`s great. I`ve been watching the development of your machine with great interest. The moving table is going to be a very rigid design. I look forward to the final report as all three are buzzing along in some material. So again, great design and first class work on the construction.

Regards Barry

Thanks Barry

Well i figured as the ballscrew/belt ratio is the same for both Z and Y
I hooked up Slosyn Y stepper; works great; very smooth at 5,000 steps plus the reduction
I'm move to 2,000 soon; 5,000 only gives 1000mm/min rapids which is not that fast at all; butat least a mistake wont have me hitting something I don't want to untill the limits etc are on (i'll have time to stop it)

I have only completed 1 axis of the communication cable; the other 3 axis still need the D25 connectors soldering on
I did something a little different this time; I stripped back the outer and combed out the shield weave
Then I found the wire colors that I needed; split the 3 wires i would use for each axis; then I split the shield into 4 bundles
Next i wrapped the 3 wires for each axis with foil; then laid the bundle of shield wire on the foil
Next I slipped shrink tube over each axis set-up
Shrank that down
The the remaining wires i placed into another piece of shrink
Finally I then added a big one for the 4 axis plus the switch wire bundle and shrunk it too at the point where I split all of them up
Looks really neat and should stop it from making strange things happen

The drive bay; note one space left for the A axis; there is a lead taped off for A axis also
Lots of switch wires too
Might use 4 of the small CPU fans for direct drive cooling
This bay is right behind the Y axis beam; the shelf is made from 2024 T6 Alum

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/drives.JPG

That shelf will hold the control computer also; I have most of the control C now; Abit board; 3000+ Semperon; 256mg DDR400; 15Gig HDD; Microcase/230watt PS; 3.5 floopy; BenQ keyboard (usb) Mouse (PS2) Just need the Monitor; a CDrom and Time to put it all together
A 3/16" thick top is planned above the drives with the fans mounted; this will extend out to the MicroATX case; the space between will hold wires/junction boards and an extra PC powersupply for 5Vdc and 12Vdc if needed

The structural top cover plate of the drives; now drilled and ready to mount the fans; have to pop a hole for the wires next and finally bolt it to the Verticals
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/drivefan.JPG
Here is the almost finished spindle; as you can see the 3/4" plate is now cut and the rearmost brg is not on the spindle; this is for the pulley to be made and mounted next; the rear brg is sitting on the next to last brg housing and steel mounting
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/spindlecut.JPG
Ok for the housing at the lowest on the spindle; I did something as a safety device; I drilled out the 3/8" UNC holes and counterbored from the back; then I made 2 stepped buttons; these are a 15mm pilot dia and tapped 3/8" UNC; the 15mm pilot is 8mm long into the 5000 Alum plate; it then increases to 30mm and is 5mm thick; basically this is if the tapped holes for some reason let go (pulled out the threads) the buttons would maintain the spindle in place; 2 reg 3/8 cap heads bolt through the buttons; the other caps are shallow head socket grade 8

Moving all axis now; in fact it's test running a 12,000 line program as I type this
Can't wait for the spindle to become live too

New 17" screen mounted

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/acer.jpg

still having problems with this camera; but I'll post some progress soon

lol, looks like a nice lcd;) same exact one I just bought a couple weeks ago.

have you gotten the machine any more done?


Jon

yeap a bit
I've been working on the mini mill in prep for the change to servos too

For the gantry; I have made 1 1/4" extended fixed length cutter shank; withthe ER25 taper (8dgr)
I have started the pulleys; there will be 3 belts running 2 speeds; the highest will be 14080 and the low setting will be 5600
The VFD will of course slow these down

Driver and driven pulleys; note; you need to remember to add belts before adding the upper brg block; LOL; yeap i forgot
Big diameter matches with the smallest on the spindle pulley; thats how I'll get 14000rpm

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/pulleys.jpg

sometimes another inch would be nice (no not what my wife said; LOL)
I just got the control computer working; it's sitting on that shelf behind the Zeta4's
However i forgot to allow for the plugs that power the Zeta's; hence the motherboard was getting a little bit to close for comfort to the plugs; I guess 90dgr plugs would help here; but I don't have 3
So I changed the Zeta4's into a canted position; moved Y drive into the spare (A's) position and mounted all 3 at 45dgr
This gave me enough gap to get the motherboard onto the shelf
I just finished the hookups for the motherboard; other than a moment where i thought it had a problem with 2nd IDE (driver not loaded) it's running the 3000+ Sempron great
Funny thing is this HDD was in the P3 866 running the mini mill untill the AGP slot packed in and seemed to have been taken out with the other problem; it would not boot into XP pro no matter what with 2 other computers; however this Abit/Sempron it likes and went right into the desktop; found all the new MB stuff and asked nicely for the Vid drivers etc
Mach3 looks great; i have the config of the Gantry saved in my USB key
Everything is sweet


Note i did briefly run the Gantry spindle yesterday with the motor from the Mini mill; man that puppy is going to need all of the 3/4 hp of the Baldor untill the brgs loosen up a bit

edit;;

Ok I got the computer parts (well some of them) from Tigerdirect
If you order from them; hope nothing happens to your shipment
My computer case got crushed by UPS (sometimes known as the Brown Package Chucking Guys)
I took photos and the manager of the dept (Fran Maxwell) promised a replacement; well after 2 weeks of waiting (great service that!!) I gave up (they prob expected that) I ripped the power supply out of it; and cut what was left up; the MB mounting part with the 6-32 holes is holding the MB to the lower 2024 T6 plate; the black face cover (plastic) will be mounted to another piece of 2024 on the back wall of the drive/control box; to give access to the CD/USB/Floopy drives and of course the on/off button

Motor pulley is now mounted on the Motor shaft; just need 2 supports for the drive system now; I'm close to actually using the 3/4hp with VFD; should be interesting

Sounds like your problem is with brown, not TigerDirect. I've been getting puter parts from them for years and never had a damaged or incomplete shipment, nor any bum parts.

UPS is another story though... I've had packages show up literally ripped apart and with stuff falling out and missing. They even managed to bend a bundled package of 4 1" IHCP rods on one occasion ;)

Tiger

Kinda reminds ya of the lead in on that Jim Cary Movie [ can't remember which one] where he's smashing the living #$%$# outa some package he's delivering.

Around here we call them United Parcel Smashers. I NEVER order delivery through them if I can help it.

Jerry

But after she said the problem would be fixed; nothing happened; I even told her it was important to sort this out; if they could ship the next day for the order; 2 weeks for a replacement is too long
Yes it might be UPS that started the problem; but Tiger should have stepped up and reshipped; then worried about who would pay for it

RMA type processes suck with online ordering. Downside to internet base shopping.

We(Navy) get alot of stuff from tigerdirect and end up with lengthy returns when they are needed. Albeit they have always been successful.

On a personal note, I've had outstanding service from newegg. I really don't shop for anything computer related anywhere else. Unless it's a great deal.

I even had a case like yours come in and geneally abused. I took it out of the box and the front bezel fell off. Every single stand out had been shattered. I expected to have a hard time getting a replacement, but the customer rep didn't even stammer on the phone. "Sorry about that, sir. Replacement case has been scheduled for delivery"

Didn't even have to send in pictures. *shrugs*

Albeit, I guess from my word of mouth advertising, to Newegg it has been worth the 40 dollar case.

Well guess what; i just got home early (have to go to the dentist)
I get an email where she now says the new case will ship in 3 days; must have been where I said I'd be posting something bad about them

Just bought my new Athlon X2 combo from www.monarchcomputer.com Great service and quick delivery. Newegg is a bit cheaper for individual components, though.

I'll chk that out Gerry
Here's a shot of the back and front of the Acer/keyboard/mouse layout
I think it looks cool; and will be very functional

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/finishedscreen.jpg

Got to love that random finish; picked it up at Disney World

Nice Work Steve, The Man Knows His Stuff,lucky For Me I Get To Pick His Brain In Person All The Time,and I Always Seem To Have Alot Of Questions! Looks Great Steve And Thanks For Helping Me Out Also.

OK big day after a troubled nights sleep

I could not get the Toshiba VFD and the Baldor to see eye to eye; just spin it a couple of revs and overloaded
I have another Toshiba with a 1/3hp motor (leeson) I got it working NP; so the drive was looked over carefully but to no avail

This morning after relaxing with the F1 race (great race)

I then went back at it!!
I found in the programming sheet the setting to return to factory specs; hit that and entered #3
Whooho; motor works great now

Ran the motor for 30mins at several differing speeds on the low pulley setting
Which would be 0-5000+ rpms
The housing might have hit 35dgr; which as everything is new is to me not a surprise
I'm letting it cool down now
I'll snap some shots as there is a lot done; it's basically ready to cut it's own table and add the hold downs and ref dowels

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/spindletemptst.JPG
tape is the temp probe on the lower spindle housing
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/lowspeed.JPG
low speed pulley on the spindle and motor
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/opside.JPG
Operator side; VFD can be seen; the computer enclos/r is also in here too; some temp wiring will be cleaned up in short order
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/counter.JPG
The Zaxis counter weight 55lb's of cast iron; the cable really only see 27.5 each; total machine is over 7ft tall now

Need to make some covers etc; and she's done

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/erfixed.JPG
I forgot this; the ER taper matched fixed tooling; here is the 1/4" holder at speed in the spindle (about 4500 rpm)
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/erfixed1.jpg
Out of the spindle; don't worry about the black magic marker line; thats how I chk taper matches; better than blue as it's thiner; there are scratches all along the marker; so i know the taper is good; in fact it must be; the shot at speed; there is no drawbar holding it; just the taper friction
4mm setscrew hole to clamp the shank of the cutter; the 0.2500" diameter is not ground yet; but the holder is really running good; about 0.0002" on the OD

Hi Stevie
The machine looks great. I hope we are going to see videos of this monster running.
Also, what are the specs on your spindle drive belt. I need to purchase new belts
and pulleys for my spindle.

Thanks, Barry

I made the pulleys to match belts i got from the local S/Machine store; so they are about 1L sized; as there are 3 of them it seemed ok; each just has to handle 1/4hp

woooooooooooooo stevie


I'm jealous big time drool at all the work u do its fggen fantastic work ;)

every time i get a email form cnczone and its ur thread i wont go over board but yes i like this thread extremely

the best work i have seen on this site and i have read alot of other threads

keep up the good work , like boglash said would love to see some action when the mill is full tuned .

keep up the GREAT WORK

cheers

ps. i read one of ur threads that u started buy learning about stepper motors and drivers

Q1. what is ur work background ???

Q2. seems like u have access to some nice machinery and materials , When can u build me a machine like this ;) :P ???

Thanks bud

I manage a custom grinding shop; part of a bigger place that has CNC's; we don't; but I will be building some for the grinding shop too
My Trade is a Tool and Diemaker

Ok here is a last construction shot
X Y Z at almost max travels
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/last.JPG
You sharp eyed guys might notice I did not add the roller brgs to support the table at max travels; UHMW will be temp as i just don't have time to make the brg supports; mind this machine could make them once the job I have booked for it is done; you can also see my L/plate above the lathe it says
(I spend most of my money on "Women and Beer" The rest i just waste)

Next 500-600lb's of ballast will be added to the base; and it will be closed in
I'll tidy the wiring up and I do want to change the wires from the VFD to the motor; they are too stiff; the Igus is not flexing right with this wire

Thats my dream shop right there boy.
:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

what you mean messy?

I really have to clean and tidy
well it's always the same; start to build a new one; trash the space; finish it up; clean; it stays pretty much clean; just a few cuttings
Thats why this is the last build for some time

That thing is a monster...

= )

Looks good.

Any chips yet??

Do you have a videocamera?

I would really like to see this thing in action!!

once again, Impressive work!.

Just finished the Y on my machine, I´ll start working on the basestructure next week.

this machine rules. i am both envious of your obvious skills, and also sort of glad i havent gotten my hands dirty enough to be able to build something like that!

impressive!

actually i just finished the tuning in of drives/steps etc

I used a 23" mic standard and a 10"
I was getting repeats of 0.0002-3" at those distances
I also trammed the table across Y and a 12" diameter circle; both are now within 0.001; which is good as I'll be fly cutting the table top anyway

I'm not that happy with the supports structure under the bed; it seems to be flexing a bit; shows up when Y moves over 500mm/min
If i set the DTI up where the cutter would be and move all axis; there is a small amount of shake 0.0002" which settles down in about 3 sec
I've just got a quote on 72 ft of 3x3x3/16" HSS for a new one; way heavier; plus I'd add the 660lb's of blocks too

Man if someone thinks your shop is messy they realy haven't ever been in a working shop before!

shop looks good man.

actually i just finished the tuning in of drives/steps etc

I used a 23" mic standard and a 10"
I was getting repeats of 0.0002-3" at those distances
I also trammed the table across Y and a 12" diameter circle; both are now within 0.001; which is good as I'll be fly cutting the table top anyway

I'm not that happy with the supports structure under the bed; it seems to be flexing a bit; shows up when Y moves over 500mm/min
If i set the DTI up where the cutter would be and move all axis; there is a small amount of shake 0.0002" which settles down in about 3 sec
I've just got a quote on 72 ft of 3x3x3/16" HSS for a new one; way heavier; plus I'd add the 660lb's of blocks too

you could probably get rid of some flexing by mounting pneumatic cylinders and a regulator to balance the Z out instead of the weights, should also be easier to adjust.

The flex is not in the main frame; but the under structure; if I mount to the steel with the DTI and move Y; it flexes
If i go to an angle plate on the table and move Y; nothing of significance happens
I could leave it; but I might as well get it right
Steel is coming tomorrow

Steve

New base
3x3x3/16wall HSS welded with 7018; added 2 uprights that will add to the overall stiffness of the bridge; I did try to lift the gantry off the old base with a 2ft prybar; did not make much of an impression on it; might be alum but it's heavy
Just picked up a 2ton wire hoist to help me get the old one out; I need to lift and lower a couple of times; drilling the hold-downs will be tougher this time

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/newshoes.JPG

Ok, that is just plain wrong!

2 days ago, you were talking about a quote for some steel tubing, and now you show a picture of a nicely welded AND painted frame! :)


You are making everyone else look extremely slow, stop it! (chair)

Paid for it thursday night
Delivered Friday morning
Cut it up Friday coffee and lunch times
Stayed late Friday night
Went in today 6am left 10am
Painted
The machine is sitting on it now
LOL

and I bet you hadd ADD when you were little to! :D

actually I did miss one thing
I had the X axis stepper wire going through the gantry base frame; dang if the new cross beam was centered right on the wire
So i had to tear the wires back out of the stepper and I have to now re-route

wire re-routed
Gantry all bolted back down on the new frame; just tweeking in the alignments again; having these rails leave 2 blocks per side is tricky; not impossible!!
You need to setup a DTI and watch as the table leaves the block; if it drops; the block is too high and vice-versa
Some shimming and it will all be back in tip top shape; and ready to mill the table top

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/shoes.jpg
back together
ways are re-aligned within 0.001; she's level again and the concrete is in place; must be close to 1000lb's now or just over
Needs way covers and some other boxing in; should look cool finished

I have a neat idea for the X axis way covers; watch this space

O.m.f.g!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Two words, Bad ass.

Here is the start of the end of the project; there will be just a few more posts!!
I'll be updating the Mini mill to servos thread; but thats it; this takes too much time and I'm still having problems with this camera; so these threads will be a good reference for others
The UHMW sliders for the 0.007" 304SS way cover; thats a 3.5" radius for the shim to slide up and down; a weight will keep it tight I'll need to hinge the table end as the shim will pass the radius center by a few inches and it will reverse

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/slidies.JPG

Amazing,
I've followed this thread and am just in sheer awe........Wow.

hi


stevie thats some beautiful machine u have made


now the BIG QUESTION when do u start making my machine :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:

LOL im serious now


cheers


ps : the best work i have seen in a very long time u certainly have set a HIGH STANDARD in this forum

I think shipping would be the killer

This is a way cool machine, wish i had the resourses to make one.

Joe

again a change of plans;' the 0.007" sliding covers are out
Instead a track type cover; imagin a cat track upside down; the segments will be hinged under the splits; as there is plenty of room under the table it seems dumb to use 0.007" when I can use 3/16" and not worry about stuff falling on the thin SS and denting it
The UHMW slides will be used; so there really is no loss at this point

Now I see what you mean by the covers taking longer than the machine! ;)

I am trying to use belows style rubber like covers. I have already got them cut and fit to size, but anchoring them is turning out to be a real challeng. Not to metion that they interfere with almost every postion you can stick a limit switch!

I have new respect for the covers on my commercial machines. And I will never bad mouth them again. Until next time! ;)

My Shizuoka B-3V bedmill uses a spring loaded roll of some sort of tough vinyl? for the Y axis way cover on the front. It works exactly like those old type window shades that were spring loaded to roll back up when you pulled to release a catch. I wonder if something like that could be made for your gantry...not real sure how to make a rotary spring, but getting the thin rubber or vinyl would be easy.

Hi Rick

Yes i thought of them; but i'd like something metal
The mini mill will be using just what you mentioned for the lower Z cover; I just hung 1/32nd rubber temp!!
I'd like to do the same with the rear Y too

As for the other 2 axis of the gantry;;;;;; not sure yet; they are quite far away for chips; dust will get on them for sure; but the THK ways have pretty good seals; i might just add some shields

The sliding cat style way covers; just sitting there for now
I need to decide if they will be piano hinged or just use nylon webbing; both would work I guess the nice thing about webbing I could pre-load it with a slight load to keep it tight on the joints; the piano hinge would work loose in time

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/waycover3-16.JPG

I made 10 for each side; so lots of coverage

Ok if your dialup; don't click this link; it's 9mg
Here is the gantry drilling it's own table for the hold-down/clamp screw locations; the ones it misses are already finished 1/4"dowel locations; the drill is 0.266 for 8mm screws

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/drill.AVI

Cat style way covers work great; I ended up with 6 per side for now; might add more

Stevie..
I like the idea of the hinged way covers. I too am working on a "rolltop" type system for my slides/rack&pinion covers.
What I find is that as the sections open as they curve down, the chips collect in the open groove and when returning to the "flat position, the plates bind from accumulation of the debris in the joints.

Are you solving this? maybe with sweeps across each joint?

John (bloy)

yes some did get stuck; I'm going to make subcovers from thin rubber; they will save the small chips; plus I like this as the chips all just fall off when it moves past the rolloff

Ok
I'm just cutting lines for alignments of jobs in the table top; using a 1/16th ball nose; these are 50mm on center spaced 25mm from the intersections of the holes; now it looks like the 3R system i used to use; jigs can be placed all over the table and referenced; could have G54 g55 g56 and so on; it be great for my F1 project

Once these are cut; I'll post a pic of it and the limits etc

Then other than answering questions; this is finished :cheers:

The finished table; coolent slot and all; need to tap the 8mm holes; but I'm still not 100%; this cold seems to be coming back :rolleyes:

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/tablelines.JPG

Note the heavy uncut ends; these are for other axis to be mounted someday

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/offside.JPG

Not sure if I posted a pic where you can see the main power feed coming down from above; the 2 switches are upside down; thats so my little girl can't work it; LOL; also the computer/drives compartment; the PS can be seen venting out to the side; there are 3 top fans; the USB key can be seen on the front panel; which is all thats left of the crushed case from Tigerdirect
I wired it so i can just run the computer; handy for editing files for the lathe

now stevie when can i take delivery of the machine


beautiful peice of machining and machinery u have done here stevie

well done mate

cheers

Thanks
So how many watched the vid?

anyone notice the 8ft long ball screw hanging above it

yes noticed the ball screw LOL

what project is that for ????

cheers

I'm not sure; I was going to start designing a really big mill; but changes at work make it impossible to make it
Might have to work somewhere else

Thanks
So how many watched the vid?


It does rapid much faster than the video shows, right? :)

i tryed to watch it but couldn't get it to work :(

Hi Gerry

Yes I had the rates down


I am devastated right now!!

Just went to fire it up; total HDD failure; unbelieveable
Now I have to start all over again with the config; steps etc; i did not think to save the config file yesterday; i was too happy it was all working; the files are 99% right; but I can't get the HDD to work in any fashion; slave - cable select - master; nothing it's gone

I'll have to buy a new one and rework it all again

I must say I'm impressed! It's nice to see the details of your homemade spindle design, the size of the machine, the hefty materials you choose, they are all spectacular!
How many pounds of concrete blocks did it take to control the inertia problem?

Do the lights in the house dim when you power it up? :)

Excellent work!
Eric

Yeah, I watched the video...I watch everything you do!

What a fantastic machine you have there....sitting right next to the garagedoor opener :)

John(bloy)

I must say I'm impressed! It's nice to see the details of your homemade spindle design, the size of the machine, the hefty materials you choose, they are all spectacular!
How many pounds of concrete blocks did it take to control the inertia problem?

Do the lights in the house dim when you power it up? :)

Excellent work!
Eric

660lb's but it was more the new base than the concrete that fixed the problem

No it's power requirements are not that big; 220Vac about 8amps

well I found a 1.6gig HDD
I did have an old XML file; it did not have my homes/limits and the steps might not be deadon; but it is back up running; Kudo's to Art for making it very easy setup in Mach3

Thanks
So how many watched the vid?

anyone notice the 8ft long ball screw hanging above it

I watched it as well,

If you have time, please make more videos, I´m sure I´m not the only builder looking for Inspiration right now.

I have to put my project on ice for a while, 2 bikes to complete and not enough paychecks :cool:

I tried to watch it, but it would not start!
Now I have lost it, what page is it located on? This is a hugh post!

Eric

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/drill.AVI

you'll have to wait for it to dload
it's big
Thats why you think it's not going to work

That aint that big man!

only took like under a minute man

I watched the video. Dload time 5.5 min, my dsl connection. What a great looking and smooth running machine.

That aint that big man!

only took like under a minute man

It's nt the quantity of frames, its the resolution of each frame image!

He's got Megapixels man! :)

Eric

Update on the use of THK lin/slides and having the rails leave the blocks

I have run lots of long programs to allow thing to pop if they would have indeed popped; nothing has popped (no balls came out)

In my opinion; this OK to do this; maybe very long term the inner ball keepers (the thin tin parts) might wear to a point that balls can pop out; but you know it's not hard to see if they do; and I doubt the keepers are too expensive; the balls could be replaced into the block with new keepers

That sure is pretty.
I can't seem to run the .avi file here for some reason.. I'll have to come over and see it in action for myself.... :)

ANYTIME BUDDY :cheers:

we need MORE vids,, Pleeease.

I'll post another real soon
Maybe tomorrow; it's cutting a Hull 24"+ long out of Corian
I'll get a planer pass

Planer cut; of the 24.5" long battlecruser hull master

I will remove the other 2 avi's as they eat a huge bandwidth
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/planer.AVI

Stevie, I can temporarily host up some videos for ya, I got liek 10gig bw and I use about 50mb a month:)


I'd be interested in seeing some wider angled shots where I can see the whole machine in action.

Jon

I was watching it as it finished the finish cut; whamo this great big bang; the computer screen was all messed up and the mill just stopped moving; i stopped the spindle to have a better look what could have made that huge bang!!
One of the wire support cables parted the other of course could not support the load so it also parted
The 55lb hit the Igus chain support and the y axis stepper motor; dang I thought; now i'm screwed

But $2.50 later it's all fixed; LOL
It's a tough machine; back running again
I'm going to add a safety chain on that 55lb weight; you live and learn

I'm jealous! gonna have to pull my finger out and get mine off the drawing board!

Planer cut; of the 24.5" long battlecruser hull master

I will remove the other 2 avi's as they eat a huge bandwidth
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/planer.AVI

Might I suggest Google Video too, free hosting...

I can't view any of the images in this post (shows a small red square and cross) yet I can view photos in other posts so therefore I wouldn't imagine it's a Windows security settings problem. Secondly the following link (shown above) doesn't work for me either: http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/planer.AVI .
Everyone speaks about this being a great project so I wouldn't mind sorting this out. Thanks for your help and please excuse my ignorance in these matters.

Anyone? please....

There will be a new page like the one for the mini mill
this page (http://www.modelbarrels.com/MacineLog.html)

only it will be the Gantry project

There will be a new page like the one for the mini mill
this page (http://www.modelbarrels.com/MacineLog.html)

only it will be the Gantry project


Was this stevies last post? :(

idea?: maybe someone should do the new page in his honour?

Yeah Stevie will be missed, I think he truly inspired me the most, I hope he is in machine Heaven where ever he is.....

Yeah Stevie will be missed, I think he truly inspired me the most, I hope he is in machine Heaven where ever he is.....


I second that, My thoughts go out to his family.