Does anyone on this site own or used a miller syn 180 Tig?

I used one quite a bit at a former job. It was a pretty nice machine.
The only problems we had with it were related to dust that was constantly around the machine.

How did you prepare the electrod to weld aluminum?

depends on the thickness and type of weld and gas used.

For aluminum 1/8" material and buttwelded, typically use a pure tungsten, AWS Class EWP (green band). Form a balled-end before welding.

check out

http://www.millerwelds.com/education/calculators/tig_amperage_calculator.php

Did you ever have a problem with the arc wandering? My welder's arc is wandering then seems to staple then wanders again. I have adjusted the post flow,but it still does it. I am wandering if the electrode is the problem,I bought the last one's from McMaster Carr,or something is not right with the welder. Do you have any suggestions on this problem. Larry

larry53,
I think I know what you are talking about. For alum you need a round ball on the end. The easiest way to do that is flip the welder over to DC reverse polarity, then start a arc on a clean piece of steel (yes steel). Hold the tungsten above the steel about 1/4 - 1/2. Careful it doesn't take much power and you will probably blow the end off a few times to get the hang of it. But it will produce a perfectly round end for AC alum tig welding.
Gary

Thanks for the information. Did you ever have a problem making sure the switch was in the AC position? It does not look like I am getting the full amount. Larry

The switch on my Synchrowave 250 is a bit flaky, too but as long as it is vertical, you are in AC which is what you want for Aluminum.

The wandering arc can also come from a contaminated tungsten. Make sure you play be the rules for post-flow time and keep the tungsten clean.

Scott

Your problem could be a couple of things.
You could be picking up some contamination when you ball the electrode over steel. I've got a 2"x3"x.25" piece of copper that I use to ball the electrode. Keeps things nice and clean.
You could have a short developing somewhere. We did have troubles with the wiring in the foot pedal from time to time. Also check the wires from the torch for any short. Check in the torch and in the machine. Really, any wire that could get jerked around should be inspected.
Also, check the gas cup for any contamination.
Dirt bad. Clean good.

Larry
Arc wander when using AC, is generally too large a ball on the end of the tungsten electrode. If using a 3/32" electrode, the hemispherically balled (1/2 round) end should not exceed 3/32". Another cause of "wandering" might be an electrode diameter too large for the amperage being used.
WT

It may be a short some where,because I turn the machine to max volts and max penteration and I could not get the electrode to ball up on the end,the arc was wandering ever so often it would stop wandering. I suppose the foot pedal would be the first place to check,but I do not seem to have a problem welding in dc when I am welding stainless. Larry

Are you using pure tungsten and turning it to DC Positive to ball it up?

Even with a sharp tungsten on AC it will ball up on it's own because it is changing from DC positive to DC negative very quickly, "AC" Alternating Current.

It was on ac when I turned ever thing up,the arc would not be steady. Larry

If you want to ball up the end, turn it to DC positive, then get a piece of clean mild steel and strike a arc for about 1 second or less. this will ball up the end. Then switch back to AC and try welding again. Welding aluminum you will never get as stable of an arc as you do when welding Mild steel or Stainless. The "syncrowave" technology is 25 years old, you will always have some arc wander when welding aluminum, you will just have to learn how to control it. The new Miller Dynasty's and Areowave control it much better, but they are far more complicated with many more ways to adjust the arc characteristics.

Thanks,I will try that. Larry

No problem, let me know how it works. If you want I could send you a video of one of my AWS certified welders welding aluminum with a syncrowave 250, then one with a Dynasty. A picture is worth a thousand words.

That would be nice,I would like to see it. Larry

I switch to dc to weld some stainless steel,I change electrode to the red tip on end,ground to a point. welding some 1/8 that I have welded before. The arc is not hot enough to metal the stainless,it is cutting on and almost off,I notice the amps are changing on the welder up and down. I wonder if I have a gun problem,since it is a air cool one and it has got hot in the past. Larry

Thanks to everyone who reply to my problem,it turn out to be a broken wire in the foot pedal. It was confusing because I was welding stainless no problem then I had to weld some aluminum and it seam that I had a problem with the ac.
Thanks for all the information as I am not a welder and could not see what would have been a no brainer to a welder. The replys will help me in the future it has answer a lot of questions that was on my mind. Thanks again Larry

I have a 180SD. Nice machine. The new sync 200 is the same machine (transformer rating) with a cheap pulser added on. Making my own pulser (LCD display+micro) and sequencer to add anyday now.

I am doing alot of 1/8" thick Al. I used to do the bal thing on DC, but I just use Zircon and grind it to a point using a cordless drill.

The ball forms it self as the current gets higher. The point is nice if I have to do a corner T on thinner stuff with the same dia. Works for me.

For one pure tung. and balling the end is OLD school. Use ceriated tungsten and sharpen to a point using a double angle you'll have much better control and penetration. The main reason your arc is wandering is from balling the end. when you sharpen the tung. grind so that your grinding marks are running along the length of the tung. not perpandicular. Todd