Some of you regulars will remember this conversion of the $58 Delta drill press into a 4 axis mill

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/4axis.jpg
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/4axisw.jpg

Well it is now undergoing a complete re-build with most of the original Delta parts removed or so drastically altered they are really new parts; I'll add some of the old photos as needed; most seem to have gone from my HHD; but some are still here
Here is the new base plate with risers and THK rails; please keep in mind I use whats on hand; and it had better be cheap; but good and fully useable
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/Newversion.jpg
Here now added is the Vertical support for the Z axis; this part is hardened stainless steel; and was scrap; I saved it to live again
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/NewversionZ.jpg
The small compumotor stepper for the Y axis is not going to be used; my good friend Catch22; who also will be posting his build of a new cnc lathe donated a 2 stacker (way to go "bud" )
Those are SR25V for the X axis
The ballscrew was on the X before; the Y is a new Universal .200 pitch 2 start ground leadscrew 0.0008/ft accuracy
The Vertical will be handled by the Kerk .400 lead 4 start leadscrew; the load will be balanced
Motor for the spindle is a RC aircraft starter re-built with new endbells and ball bearings; running at 30.8VDC it seems it draws 2amps no load (RPM still to be measured)
The said motor below
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/newmotor.JPG
All who followed the new spindle for the old version of the mill will remember this photo
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/spindle8.JPG
I have now made the quill active once again; so I'll have 6.187 active travel on the Kerk and the THK rails; and the live quill will be able to drill/tap etc in manual mode; or locked for the Kerk/rails to mill
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/Headmods.JPG
Here is the modified head; as you can see; massive changes
I cut off the normal round mount; then milled it flat; I then milled inside both sides to form a Key to maintain accuracy and stop movement; there are 2 webs inside to form the quill guides; I used these to drill and tap into to hold the Alum block; plus 4 5mm caps in the sides also into the block
The top is milled ready for the motor mounting plate; which will also tie the head to the backplate
The 2 locking screws can be seen to keep the quill tight; the recoil spring is once again in palce

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/y-slide.JPG
Bit more done; the Y screw mounting blocks are in place; the nut carrier is next here to make; table is now in place and moves nicely; I tried 3000mm/min rapid; worked great
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/y-screw.jpg
Here is the complete Y axis screw with both supports and the nut carrier; the nut carrier is split to enable clamping to the nut
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/y-screw-rear.jpg
The rear support screwed down 5mm caps
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/y-slide-belt.jpg
The belt reduction; plus the alum angle will form the belt guard and help cool the stepper; it is now alive on 2 axis
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/Z.jpg
The drive motor mounted; speed 9860rpm; or whipping around really fast LOL
The Z axis screw is 1/2 mounted; the head is being supported by it now; 16lb of counter weight as of this part of the build; add 2 pulleys; the SS slide covers and belt with guard; I figure about a 20lb should do nicely
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/zaxis-stepper.jpg
Ok big day
The 2x2x1/1/4 angle makes up the 2 supports; these are then screwed to the vertical main support; the 3x3x1/4 angle is screwed to them with 6 8-32 and 2 6-32 countersunk SS screws; it also forms the basis/support for the stainless steel sliding cover I'll be adding to keep chips/etc out of the ways; and holds the housing for the upper bearing of the KerK screw; the stepper mount will be screwed to this also
I milled the angles to maintain true 90's and remove the excessive web raduis
I'll have to bush the timing belt wheel tomorrow for the Kert
4 5/16" capheads hold the whole thing to the back support
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/3axis.jpg
Z is active now; the Eastern Air Devices seems happy with no counter weight but I'll add one anyways; to remove the load from the Kerk

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/at-speed.JPG
Here are the pulleys at speed; my camera has actually stop/actioned the motor pulley and you can see the 4mm setscrew hole; wow (5375rpm)
The fan at the bottom of the pulley is from a CPU cooling fan/heatsink
Speeds are close to what was predicted by my calculations +/-250rpm
Top speed 30.5 VDC = 16000 at 12VDC = 8000
2nd speed 30.5 VDC = 10250 at 12VDC = 5100
3rd speed 30.5 VDC = 5375 at 12VDC = 2650
4th speed 30.s VDC = 3950 at 12VDC = 1500
5th speed 30.5 VDC = 2190 at 12VDC = 1090

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/anular.JPG
Here is the anular airpassage; this will have some open cell foam insterted for cutting; it will stop chips/dust etc
Basically a cap over the end bell

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/2ndfan.JPG
Found a small problem with running 16000; thetop bearings on the stub shaft got to 40dgr; this second fan will help with stopping that

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/ps-sw.JPG
Here is the 30.5 VDC power supply and the switch for the spindle

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/c-w.jpg
Here is a close up of the counter weight and the ass pulleys to lower the friction of the set-up; the 2 brass pulleys ride on 5mm bore ball races

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/cov.JPG
The Y axis pulley is now safe from little fingers

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/cov1.JPG
This is the Y axis and the hard X axis way covers; the X axis cover will also be a nice tool holder table or table extension; the other side will be rubber or SS not sure yet

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/zhome-zlimit.JPG
The mounting screws counter bored into the Alum angle; top is a none roller limit (Z upper)
The bottom 2 screws hold the Z axis home switch
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/zhome.JPG
Said home switch
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/X-limit-home.JPG
Here are the X axis home (bottom of the shot) and the X axis limit; I have the software limits active too
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/Y-limit-home.JPG
The Y axis limit and home; a combination ramp takes care of both; the ramp is 10mm from home to limit; just behind is the +direction limit ramp; the + limit switch is actually about 5" away at this point

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/ss-x.JPG
The X axis Stainless Steel way cover

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/ss-x-r.JPG
Same just retracted; the middle section rides the SR25 rails on 2 UHMW blocks; rubber pullers maintain the correct distances as the covers pullout

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/firstcut.JPG
But will it work---------------- Yes
Here is the cut to ensure the table is flat to the ways in X and Y; 0.2mm deep at 350mm/min
I'll be adding a coolant groove around this flat area; and I'll mill the remaining table 0.1mm lower than the top; then I can overhang the main work area; and be able to drain any collected coolant

BTW; I should add; the orange you see behind the table is a new Y axis cover made of Silicon rubber 1/32nd thick; the black rubber is 1/16th thick; the black stuff was too much back there; it bunched up and even tripped the lower Z limit once
It may get replaced with Stainless steel if I can get the hang of bending it just right

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/vice-coolant.jpg
Table is now just about finished; still need to add fixture hold down screw points and dowel location points
The coolant groove is now done plus my toolmakers vice hold down screws added; this will be the normal 3 axis config for this machine; remember there is a 4th axis which needs a couple of mods for it to be fitted also; the vice will be removed for the 4th to be added; the vice will not be needed when the other fixtures I'll make are in use also
I also added another chip barrier; this one overlaps the SS cover and the Hard/table extention X cover; should stop all chips and most dust from the slides/ball screw; there is a similar barrier on the back of the table

Next I still need the Lower Z SS cover; finish the top SS Z cover; I have 1 week off work so I think I can finish this machine pronto
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/xmasdaymill.jpg
More to come; I'll edit this to add more info and photos as the build progress

Wow, nice work!

I second the motion. Great Job.

Jerry

I just ran the re-built motor with the bearings in place; I have not cut any cooling holes yet; but she sure sings; very quiet and tons of power; The case and end caps did get a little hot (nothing like a stepper though)
I will be adding a fan and cooling holes in each end cap
Running with no load she's pulling 2.08amp @ 30.8VDC
I managed to hold the shaft and get the amps up to 5; but it did burn my fingers in a hurry; I would not do that again; LOL

Ill be watching this with interest, looks damn cool.

Thanks for the replies guys
I just want to add; to make these machines I'm using machines that are just about the same age as me; some are even older (if thats possible) LOL
The Bridgeport is circa 1957; I went through it and I am now re-building another one; looks like we'll sell the 2 and buy one new one; yeppee

...What about the details on how was it done for those salivating for a project like modifying this type of benchtop drill press? Where and how to get the materials rated for speeds and feeds for the new spindle for this drill? What to place where in the new spindle? All I want to know is the modified headstock assembly info/details. the CNC mechanics and electronics I can do myself. I am sorry If I come off sounding as I do. But no one would pass up the oppurtunity to modify this drill press given the chance. I mean just look at the pics here. It's inspirational, it's ingenius! All this time, owning two benchtop drill presses like this one above, and I never thought of making them into a mill let alone a CNC mill like the one pictured above. I don't have the design skills it takes to come up with this idea, basically I don't have an imagination, I just follow instruction. It is a thing of beauty, Stevie. so what of it? Care to share the details? It's as they say, simulation is the best form of flattery.

Preator; I have read your post 3 times now; I'm not too sure just what your asking me

He's asking if you would please be nice and share the information on how you originally converted the drill press to a CNC mill.

BTW, Damn, that is a nice job you've done on the conversion!

The Man Knows His Stuff,nice Work Steve.

He's asking if you would please be nice and share the information on how you originally converted the drill press to a CNC mill.

BTW, Damn, that is a nice job you've done on the conversion!

Ok I see; well I did post most of the photos have gone from my HDD; and the FTP i used to use has been deleted; so there is no way to get those photos back; as they say a picture is worth a thousand words; i'd sit here forever trying to discribe what I did; and most likely it would not be that clear; really the drill conversion was only successfull for brass/alum and plastic; thats why I'm converting it; the spindle change was to stop the chuck falling off; and to improve accuracy; plus gain a big increase in speeds; 3100rpm is just not enough for a 0.010" ball cutter

Thanks Catch22; we did have fun watching the rapids tonight and the program run; even if it was just 2 axis moving

Great Work. Keep the pics coming.


Jason

Sorry for any confusion Stevie, it's just that I was in a hurry and tried to post my message at super speed, Thanks Hllrsr for understanding and clearing things up. I am pretty sure with some tweaking to the drill/mill, it can cut .020 in aluminum. There is a guy by the name of Jose Rodriguez, on the mini-lathe.com links page, who modified his [generic] 8" benchtop drill into a mill and built a bigger milling machine that holds tolerances of .001, headstock is from a taig lathe, and the only real modification made to his 8" benchtop drill turned mill is that he epoxied the drill chuck and used a 3/8 threaded rod to pull the drill chuck into the spindle nose taper, he uses the drill chuck to hold milling cutters, he shows the he can machine .010 to .020 on it in his videos. I was just curious in the modification, seeing as how it would make for a good CNC build [project]. Maybe just I'll put this on the back burner for and do some more research, for now. Hey Stevie kepp up the good work, your machines are always fun to look at and inspirational and remember, guys...always have fun machining. :)

Hey No problem
The thread is once again updated with new Z pic
Steve

Inspiring is all that comes to mind. You make it look sooooo easy. Experience tells me otherwise :drowning:

Hey, Stevie.

I have a question. You said, "there are two webs inside to form the quill guides", what are webs?

If you remove the quill; there is a bore that it runs in; but it's not totally enclosed inside the casting; there is a spot for the pinion gear which is part of the hand feed down spindle (quill) above that space there is another space just to save material

So to remove the quill
Remove the nuts on the hand feed shaft
Remove the return spring and it's housing
Hold upthe quill
Pull the hand feed shaft out from the opp side from where the return spring was
Now you can pull out the quill; at the back you will see the splines with grease on them
If you now look up the casting; you'll see the gap in the bore for the pinion gear; and above that another bigger gap to the top of the bore where you can see the snap ring on the end of the stub shaft that the splines engage with
The gaps are bridged with 2 webs that for part of the bore; if the back end is cut off Like I did to get rid of the hollow tube support; there is quite a big space inside there; but the 2 webs can be drilled and tapped to provide a good solid mounting
If you wanted you could mill the backs flat and actually bolt right onto them; stick close to the side where the max strenght is
I milled a flat down each side of this space for a key; this anligns my head with the Z axis rails and I don't really need to worry about having to tram the head; the head support that is bolted to the head I drilled and tapped with 6 6mm capheads with a very tight clearance; when I attached the head to the back plate I dialed it to see how it ran; within 0.001; that close enough for me; I'll not be using 6" face mills LOL

Looks Awesome Steve, Man You Work Fast. I Think I Will Give You A Call To See If You Got Some New Ebay Toys Yesterday!

I Think I Will Give You A Call To See If You Got Some New Ebay Toys Yesterday!

Yeapper; whoohoo; just like Christmasday; I got my 3 P5 1000watt servos
2 Emoteq Corp. Quantum series, Brushless DC Motors. QB02302-B05-HE. Each equipped with an encoder. Max rated torque - 1676 oz-in., Max Cont. power - 411 watts, rpm 6000, shaft - 3/8.
Then there are 2 SR20W slide blocks
My Sony industrial camera for close ups while machining (just have to figure out the pins at the back)
1 1/3 HP 3 phase Leeson
1 3/4 HP 3 phase Baldor
It was a great day yesterday

New edit to add the photo of the upper (Z) stepper mount

all 3 axis are live now; whooho

Lookin good man, is the x-axis the only one with a ballscrew?

how much did this all cost you?


Jon

Just 1 ball screw "yes"
Kerk can be better than a ball screw (least thats what Kerk say"
The universal is very high accuracy and no backlash; love to find more of these
The ballscrew I have no idea who made that one; but it is 2 nuts pre-loaded
So the ball screw was $50
The Universal was $86
The Kerk was $19

The compumotor/EAD steppers maybe $30 each (had them a while; one from Catch22)
The Zeta 4 drives $70each (approx)
Connect cable $2 from a surplus place added the ends myself (radio shack parts $15)
X Rail/blocks $100 but I still have a 1meter length left
Z rails $75 total
X rails 1 at $65 4 at $8

$100 for the bearings in the spindle
$58 for the Delta
Motor for the spindle (free)
0.03 stainless for the covers (free)
Steel (free)
3/4" Aluminum for the mounts and table $30
$160 for Mach3
My old P3-866 (extinct gaming computer had it since new)$?

Not a lot thats for sure; actually a cheap conversion
Rapids can be 3000mm/min; but I feel safer with 1500 for now

update pics in the first post of the motor/pulley now fitted; chk this out :eek:

did you buy the kerk new, or was it an ebay special? do you think a kerk would work just as well for an x or y axis? im starting to collect parts for a homebuilt CNC mill, and I already have a complete z-axis assembly with ballscrew, so I am looking for options for x and y (and maybe a 4th axis down the road).

eBay; unused

They might?

Family time tonight; I'll try to update the thread tomorrow; I have got some stuff done with the way covers!!!!
But not exactly as i was planning; you'll see!

tonights update

4 new photos
enjoy

Hey Stevie,

You still didn't say where we could obtain the same SKF ball bearings used in your spindle.

I did "Motion Canada"
Or you local Motion dealer
20mm 32mm 7mm the roller is 20mm 32mm 20mm
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/spindle2.jpg
61804 2RS I can't remember the roller number

Hey thanks,

Stevie, again, thanks a million and Happy Holidays to you and yours. Eat, drink, and be merry.

Hi Guys
Sorry for no update this weekend; i did work on her!!
Spent most of yesterday installing the limits and homes; I had to install 9 micro-switches; 3 homes 6 limits
They are wired as XYZ ++ XYZ-- and the 3 axis homes; this uses all 5 possible avail pins; at least once a + is hit; Mach3 will know in which direction I was going; if I'd wired them all on one pin no direction would be known
The Z and X homes are already working; just need Y and then wire-up the 2 limit wires to the comunication cable
I also need another length of outer covering for the wiring bundles
Photos will be uploaded soon

Well at 11 pm last night I finally got all the limits and homes working; what a job
I had of course made mistakes and this gave me the headaches; for some Obscure Reason; I put the XYZ -- on pin 14 even through I saw I could not use it; DUH
I also screwed the Y home ramps up; which ment a trip back to the shop and make 2 more

Tonight i will update with new photos of the switches

First post of the thread again updated with new shots of the limits and home switches

2 new photos added to the first post of the thread; both are of the SS X axis cover
SS is not easy to work with in this application; tough to bend 3 and keep the clearances; Catch 22 has seen all the attemps to get this right; good job I got the 0.015" SS free
LOL

That is just awesome, your going to have to show me how to do that! I have a general idea, but you did an awesome job and I am interested in knowing.


Jon

Next time I remove them to fit the last covers; I'll take more detailed shots

first cut photo added to the first post of the thread; I'm really happy now; this is just like getting a Christmas gift

another small photo update; most likely the last before the Xmas day drinking and eating starts; LOL

holy crap that is chunky! i wish i could work plate material like that... i dont trust my ancient enco knee mill for facing though... i havent any idea how to do it!

vac

larger view with a tidy bench LOL

[QUOTE=Stevie]larger view with a tidy bench LOL
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/Xmas_Recital.AVI
edit to add a Christmas Gift to you all who visit this thread
My little girls Xmas Recital where she played Pachelbel's Canon


Her keyboard skills are awesome. Thanks for sharing that little video.

Garry

Yes she's pretty good for 10 years old :-)

Here's a quicky i just machined; planer cut first and polished with 240 grit
3D conture cut at 458mm/min with a 1/16th ball 4 flute @10,000 rpm
Might become the head name plate (not sure yet)
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/testtext.jpg

This version is better; I hope it's on right 5 Rum & Cokes can make you a little off kilter

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/nameplate.jpg

Hi guys; I can't edit the first post of this thread anymore; so the final photos will be here at the end
The table is now drilled and ready for fixtures; the pattern is 25mm on centers; alt reamed 5mm or tapped 6mm holes
I had fun with my little girl who used Mach3 MDI for the hole pattern; she input the locations for reaming and tapping
The machine cut the holes for ream -0.05mm and tap size for the tapped holes with a 1/8" 2 flute HSS slot cutter
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/tablefin.jpg
The upper Stainless Steel cover; now this machine other than 2 small belt guards is finished; and I'm a happy camper
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/z-ss-cov.jpg

The next batch of photos will most likely be from Catch22; who just took his Lathe home from the shop to fit out; and he also just started his all steel mini mill

Your mill is awesome. Since I have a small drill press like you started with I am thinking I could put something similar together. You said that you didn't recall the needle bearing used in the splindle. Do you think it was a NKI20/20?
If it is I'm having trouble locating one here in the U.S. Anyway you have one great mill and I really appreciate the pictures.

Thanks;
The Bearing is listed in the FAG book I have at work; I didn't get a FAG but I'm thinking it was a Timken

absolutely looks great! how much of the original drill press was used?

Hi Phil

All thats left now is the outer part of the quill; and the feed handle with return spring and the small casting with the stub shaft that the new pulley is on

Your mill is awesome. Since I have a small drill press like you started with I am thinking I could put something similar together. You said that you didn't recall the needle bearing used in the splindle. Do you think it was a NKI20/20?
If it is I'm having trouble locating one here in the U.S. Anyway you have one great mill and I really appreciate the pictures.

I just found the box; it slipped down behind my set-up
I'm re-org/zing the shop and it came to light

The bearing is a Timken NKJ20/16A

What a fantastic thread. Read's like a well written book. Great picture quality too.

I want one !

Heres a stop action photo of the new mill in the process of making an Imperial Japanese Navy Heavy Cruiser Propeller (Takao class) in 1/200th scale
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/propaction.JPG
And heres how big that actually is; yes it's in Bronze
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/IJNprop.jpg

That looks awesome, although it looks like you need to do that one with the 4th axis:)

Do you have a cam package that can do simultaneous 4 axis movement to do something like that?

I have some stuff I want to program/get programmed that needs simultaneous 4 axis motion but I dont know how(turbo impeller and compressor)


Jon

I made a simple jig and cut the other side
Looks cool
Catch22 stopped by and watched it cut; we both watched as i took a cutter out; Duh; hit the holder screw; well no one's perfect

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/both.jpg

Excellent work!

That looks awesome, although it looks like you need to do that one with the 4th axis:)

Do you have a cam package that can do simultaneous 4 axis movement to do something like that?

I have some stuff I want to program/get programmed that needs simultaneous 4 axis motion but I dont know how(turbo impeller and compressor)


Jon

Jon
although it looks like you need to do that one with the 4th axis:)

Answer; my 4th uses ER25 Coolets; max size is 16mm; this is 19mm stock

turn down the end and pop it in:)

Jon

why?
It worked as is; that would waste material and bronze is not cheap

How did you hold it down when you flipped it? pics would help.

How did you hold it down when you flipped it? pics would help.


I did not take any photos me and Catch were too busy having fun
Basically I took a small piece of 7075 alum; milled a 1/32nd wide key 0.01 tall with a hole tapped 4-40 in the center of the round 7075and the middle of the key
I milled a 1/32nd key across the prop which you can see against the table top in the last photo; right at the root of the blade closest to you
Then a 4-40 grade 8 cap head held it down;but I forgot the ball end would hit it when it cut the corner of the hub
This is what busted the long cutter i had; so I chanced it and used a reg 1/16th ball end carbide; I reduced the feed for the first couple of passes; it simply removed the head as needed to clear; then i put the feed back to 100%

How did you hold it down when you flipped it? pics would help.


Also, how did you line it up so the tool cut the back side of the propeller blades matching the first side.

That really is nice work.

The key lined it up.

The key lined it up.

exactly; the bolt lined the hub to the hole for the bolt in the 7075
The key lined the blade to the blade on the opp side; in cad it was a simple rotate 180

Wonderful job! I am new to this site and just came across your post. I was wondering where the x axis ways came from? I have a set of used ones off of a Mazak at work and they are very similar and about 6' long. I figure I could cut them down to size if I decide to try and tackle something like this. My drillpress is a Delta floor model about 18 years old and it gets very little use.

eBay
They are 25mm THK SR type

I'm sure you don't want to cut those babies of yours down

Another test run
1/200th Yamato main gun turret; cut from Pink Granite (well synthetic granite)
Rough cut 400mm/min 1mm step down (1 hour 5min)
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/pink.jpg
The 2 hour finish cut was 0.1mm step down at 500mm/min; hand finished with 600 wet-dry; quick shot of gray primer to reveal the details
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/pinkyamato.jpg

When you cut the spindle to use the spline portion and pin it to the new spindle portion do you use the original top bearing? Then for the new portion use two more bearings or do you only use the two 20mm bearings for the entire spindle?
I'm leaning towards the two bearing scenerio. Where did you cut threads for a preload nut on the 20 mm half or on the spline half?
Sorry about dwelling on the spindle but this looks so doable that I could have a light duty mill by replacing the spindle and adding a milling table. Then of course converting it to cnc next. Thanks for the sharing your build!

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/spindle2-1.JPG

Here is the pre load nut threads; it's atop the 20mm lower section
I think I threaded it 24tpi

The original top stub shaft brgs are still there; remember there are 3 brgs on the lower shaft with a spacer tube between the Needle roller and the top brg

I don't see a pre-load nut, I see threads.

happy now

Not really, I don't see a pic. I would really be happy if this were a better world where you were teaching classes on modifying the Delta 8" table top drill press as standard practice for enthusiest...wishful thinking. Hey but I believe I speak for everyone when I say, We appreciate you sharing your build and progress pics. Keep'em coming, if you don't mind...didn't mean to make you blush.

Other to answer questions; this will be the last photo update
On to the Gantry mill now; which has undergone a small redesign; it will now have 33" travel in X

First photo; the 4th is now finished; fixtured and setup in Mach3
Here is the overall shot
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/4thall.JPG
viewed from the working end
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/4thleft.JPG
Stepper and XL belt detail
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/4thrightb.JPG
Close up of the belt tracking; thats a small pulley to increase wrap angles
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/4thrightdetail.JPG
headon close up
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/4thheadon.JPG

Are the splines from the drill spindle still attached to the new milling spindle? you show the spline in the above pics when showing the pre-load nut threads but I don't see it jutting out in the above pics. Also the pre-load nut set up seem different, in earlier pics, (first page), then the one above. I don't want to come off as a pest, but as breaker said this looks doable. I just want to understand how it was done. I am putting the whole of these project pages together so as to try and put the pieces together but it looks as though there are some changes between earlier pics and pics above.

This is the best photo I have of the spindle be for assembly i have labled the parts
I can't see how you can look at the first post photos and not understand the spindle; the shot with 2 spindles in it clearly has splines; once inserted into the housing you can't see the splines because they are inside the upper stub shaft

I hate to be blunt; but if you can't understand from these photos how I did it; maybe you should not try
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/spindle311.jpg

He wants to know if they are still there.

By the looks of it from this picture It appears that they arent.
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/zaxis-stepper.jpg

Jon

thats exactly what I said; they are inside the stub shaft; thats what is sticking up; a spindle in one of these machinesis 2 part; the stub shaft; and the quill with it's splined drive spindle; if you or he took it apart all would become very clear

When one creates out of a labor of love, the outcome is always going to be a thing of obvious imagination, challenge, hardwork, beauty and inspiration, all in that order respectively and because of this one proudly says, "Look everybody, look what I can do/did". One displays such masterpiece[s] in hopes to share the same feeling of accomplishment, so as to get the same reaction of the outcome as the craftman who created it, and that which describes it as a labor of love, imagination, challenge, hardwork, beauty and inspiration, drives other craftsmen and hobbyists to simulate such a creation. This only comes from sharing, so when one wants to share pics it is only pressumed one wouldn't have a problem sharing info of pics with all the same intent as sharing the build process of such masterpiece[s], without losing sight of the five driving factors that will drive hobbyist and craftsmen alike to mirror the created piece. Goodluck with future builds.

I have no problem sharing; but it seems like I'm posting about what is right in front of you
The splines can not be seen once the quill is up in the head; they are there for sure; the stub shaft is splined internally; the quill runs up and down through the internal splines; the part of the old shaft saved is just the splined section; everything else from the splines down is new; made from 4140 and heat treated; there is a thread all about that spindle conversion

understood, thanks.

it doesn't look like you started with a drill press anymore.. looks like a very good design. Boxy like a volvo, but strong as a horse.. :) :stickpoke
I should pop by again sometime and watch it go.. stay for a chat too.. I want to see your gantry mill in person too..
I noticed on this thread that you posted a .avi of your daughter's christmas recital.. i clicked the link and it is no longer there... Sorry i missed it. I am sure she did well though... I remember her practicing.
Keep up the good work :banana:

It was sucking a huge bandwidth; had to remove it; plus it wa a christmas thing

There will be more it seems with the mini mill project
The 16,000rpm spindle is showing it is just not fast enough
I have started a small side project for an even higher speed sub spindle
The first parts were made today; can't post pics as they are still at work
But it will be plus 30,000 for sure
It is a slide in replacement spindle and drive motor; the normal spindle is simply slipped out and this one slides into it's place; the actual spindle/motor combo is 50mm over to the side of the main housing; as the biggest cutter used will be 1/16" and under this "should" work
Pics and more updates to come

Viewed from bellow; the 40mm adapter is threaded for a locking washer if needed; but it's a very tight fit and might not need one
The spindle is not installe as it's not made yet; but the dia will be 8mm
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/newhighspeed.jpg
Motor mount off the spindle housing; the slots are for cooling air and the 4mm mounting screws; also in the shot is the spindle housing; it was a slide hammer for yrs; and duid a good job; but now it's going to serve again; the dia is for the upper brg I still have to make the preload sleeve too; thats why the 3rd brg is not installed yet
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/newhighspeed1.jpg
The assembly with motor; it is not attached yet; just sitting there
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/newhighspeedass.jpg

HI STEVE

Just curious where in melbourne do u buy ur stepper motors ??

and in ur post u said u save something from the salvage yard ( scrap metal bin ) is there a machinery sidmantler in melbourne ?

sorry im new to this stuff and trying to source local people to buy things for my first attempt at a CNC plasma table

and also where do you buy ur metals from ? as buying stainless or any other metals new from the metal merchants is expensive

cheers

ps: very nice work

I live in Canada; sorry

I live in Canada; sorry

hi

sorry stevie i mixed u up with another CNzone forum guy



cheers

Ok here is the ass installed into the head casting
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/highspindle.jpg
I still have to make a small coupler; it will be simple; a bronze bushing with a set screw; and a 0.125 wide slot; the slot will engage on the spindle flats
4 3mm screws hold the motor mount to the 5000 Alum plate
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/highspindlecoupling.jpg
There is the spindle nose with collet; the mounted point is just in there as I wanted to chk run out; 0.001"
I'm happy with that
Spindle was a DME 3/4" core pin for mold making; you all know how tough they are to machine
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/highspindlenose.jpg
Brg's are 608ZZ 3 of them support the spindle

Looks great, how fast is that motor and where did you get it from? I was thinking a cheap rotary tool motor for a setup like that would work good.


Jon

eBay
A guy in Calgary sells them
But right now he's out I gave $15 for 2
Here's a link
http://www.johnsonelectric.com/product/product_sheet/fect_sheet.php?ProdID=84--A

Wrong link
Edited

Finished!!!!!

Here it is at speed; I tried to measure it with my optical RPM counter but got all kinds of wild readings; might be higher than my counter can go
The 0.25mm (0.010") ball cutter in now; is why I built it
Gets warm but not hot; which is great considering the speed and amps going through it
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/atspeedmini.jpg

edit edit

Just ran a 8000 line program with that 0.25mm ball; went well; I'm happy as a pig in s*** now

Thanks Stevie...for sharing all of your DIY creativity! I've thoroughly enjoyed ALL of your posts. I sure hope there are more to come of anything YOU do.... VERY educational and inspirational too!

Bloy(John)

Thanks John

Well i throught if I opened the garage door I would get natural light for my optical rpm meter; it will pick up on the flicker of the lights; I usually just use a small halogen flashlight
But no luck; it must be out of the units range; even tried 3 level changes per rev but it still would not read the spindle
Guess I need a new rpm meter

Must be well over 30,000rpm

For those wondering why I built this spindle; here's the special project it was for; a bunch of these
65mm long 1/32nd scale 37mm tankbuster guns from the WW2 JU87 Stuka Dive Bomber
Those slots and holes are what it was for; I found it runs really well on 12vdc (16,590rpm) and cuts these in 43mins at 65mm/min feed with a 0.25mm ball cutter

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/stuka5.jpg
slots are 0.375mm wide holes are the same but taper to 3.25 at the bottom of the cut
21,400 lines of gcode

hi stevie

that's is very nice work , i am vaccinated with the working your doing , seems you know your cnc stuff where i'm a newbie to all this have a few old lathes and mills which i will tackle in converting to cnc operation once i get the hang of the lingo

keep up the greta work and thank you for sharing you work with us all in CNCzone.com

cheers

where do i go to find the spindal being built on the cnc mill

Thanks

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14670&page=1

Mindblowing, the quality is assounding good work.

I used the mini mill to make this new badge for my Talon; the old one was stone damaged; this one is 2024 t6; should hold up better; I made the artwork of the eagle head and cut 0.5mm deep; black satin paint and a coat of clear
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/badge.JPG

oi.

you are the real deal. i wish i was the real deal.

:)

how come your www.vacuumstudios.com link is dead?

because the company died (dont share a creative compan with your roommate)

i am too lazy to fix the link... for some lame stuff you can see

www.clockworkchicago.com/robert.htm

of course, there is far more better work i need to post.. need time!

working full time for real $ has sort of killed part of my output....

it will be back! not vaccumpress.com... robertguyser.com

cheers.

PS. By real deal, what i mean is, when i finally design and machine my own spindle, then i too will be the real deal! I can draw anything.. it actually making it... that is the hard part for me...

Here is the start of the Pixie conversion of my Mini Mill
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/pixie3.JPG
Where the 1-2-3 block is will be an intake filter; the 2 12v fans will be mounted close to where they are now
The Pixie standoffs are lexan rod; drilled for 6-32 screws to hold the pixes
PS1 is a 30.5VDC 25amp unregualted for the Copley's
PS2 is a computer supply for the 5vdc 12vdc and -12vdc; for the Pixie's
3 Copley 503's handle the motion with 3 Pixie's to interface PC to the Copley's

More info on Pixie's at www.skyko.com

http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/pixie2.JPG

closer to being done

Sometimes it's nice to have cnc at home just for that odd job
I have a 1993 Eagle Talon
I found the dustcaps are rusted through on the rear hubs; so i called the local parts place; what; not likely; was the reply when I asked if they had them; I have some that might work; he said
Not even close
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/car.jpg

I then said to myself; heck I have the machines at home; make the bloody things; so here is the first; these made from UHMW they won't rust
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/dustcap.JPG
and here is a video of the Mini Mill making the inside of the cap; it also did the step; my little lathe did the outside diameter (2.5") video (http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/dustcap.AVI)
It's about 5mg; dialup guys watch out

I've been working on a web page of this build; the same will be done with the Gantry when i get time; it will be easier to see the whole without wandering through questions etc

new page (http://www.modelbarrels.com/MacineLog.html)

not completely done yet; but it's coming

comments?
suggestions?
Can everyone see it ok; I know it's not dialup friendly

Looks great!

great info, but i would suggest a colored background instead of a picture, center everything, and choose a font color that contrasts your background color, as it makes it more readable.

oh, and that 37mm gun is beautiful :)

VERY nice work! For a high speed non contact rpm meter, check out ebay for the ones we use for rc cars. Our nitro motors do over 40k rpm, and these meters do a great job at picking up the speed with a decent accuracy.

great info, but i would suggest a colored background instead of a picture, center everything, and choose a font color that contrasts your background color, as it makes it more readable.

oh, and that 37mm gun is beautiful :)


Yeap that is better
I did not know i could keep the machine look with a new background; but you can!!
Thanks

All I can say is WOW.

Does anybody have any pics from this project? Im building something very much alike and this could be of much help

Thanks in advance.

Stevie passed away a few months ago and the pictures were hosted on his web page, which has since closed down. I am thinking that perhaps they are gone forever.

Eric

I was putting together a pdf of this thread with most of the pictures. I still have it if CNCAdmin would be willing to post it somewhere.

Alan

Thats terrible news.
Did anyone manage to get a bunch of pics and so forth befor the site closed? looking for mill projects from drill press'es in general.
thanks