Great thanks Joe, it's great to actually see it in action! I just watched all 4 videos (my wife now thinks I am weird, but she just does'nt understand ;) )

I agree what a tease - I hope some of the parts were for me ;)

What dust collection system are you using?

What are you using as a spoil board on top of the 1/4" mdf skin and how are you holding it on (using the clamps you made?)

How are you holding the HDPE sheets down (clamps, carpet tape?) Do you have tabs on some of those smaller parts to hold them in place?

Can't wait top get building.

I got my Hitachi router from Amazon for $119, looks like a good router.

David

I think people mentioned using carpet tape, but it looks like JOe is just cutting the holes and details first and making his through cuts last, some how I think he may still be using a hold down of some kind though because I can imagine how small parts might get kicked around with the router bit and chop them up good, but I could be wrong. And yes, what a tease.. David, don't worry, I showed my SO as well and my brothers, no one understands, they all say it's a waste of money but I see nothing but potential. What's the worst that can happen? His design works, (obviously) and even if I don't make a dime on it or use it at all except for hobby, I will have learned a great deal in the process. :) Thinking of going the AZ route as well. Wow, I think I got just about every part online? Gotta love the internet! Bolt Depot rocks Btw, my order is going to be here by monday! Took me a while, but it beats scrounging around home depot's mess of a hardware isle. heh

http://www.filefactory.com/dlf/f/9253bf/b/2/h/e22caea27e93c8b1


joe


It looks like this file is not existing on the server any more, does anybody have the file???
And is it possible to post the file once more???

It's there, just scroll down for the download link, I just tested it and it still works.

It's there, just scroll down for the download link, I just tested it and it still works.

I can just get the text, in explorer:
"Sorry, this file is no longer available. It may have been deleted by the uploader, or has expired."

and with firefox, I can't find anything....

I can just get the text, in explorer:
"Sorry, this file is no longer available. It may have been deleted by the uploader, or has expired."

and with firefox, I can't find anything....

found it with firefox!!!
the link says "Download for free with FileFactory Basic"....

tanx!!!

Works with IE 7. and also the video's work

If it happens next time just try clearing your cache and temp internet files and try again. You might have seen an old cache of it and that's why you received that error.

Also I rehosted it for Joe and anyone else that's having trouble accessing the file. The link is below, Joe you can post it wherever, bandwidth isn't an issue :).

http://www.dkahost.com/joecnc/Joes CNC Model 2006 R-2.zip

No ads or things to weed thru, just the straight download. Enjoy.

I am about to go buy the 60"x1" galvanized pipe. Is it okay to get the pre-cut 60" pipe or do I need to go for the 72" precut and cut to size.

Thanks

I am about to go buy the 60"x1" galvanized pipe. Is it okay to get the pre-cut 60" pipe or do I need to go for the 72" precut and cut to size.

Thanks

just make sure it is 60" or slightly shorter, most the precut is longer and i usually cut it down. same for all axis, because the distance it fits in it the 60" and 36" for the y-axis

joe

joe, ever use home depot for cutting? the other night I saw them lubing up a machine and cutting a few gas pipes for a guy, wondered how "accurate" they might be but it would save me some hassle in my all wood tool shop ;)

Joe nice to see your machine! BTW this is Lorenzo, you probably don't recognize my screen name. I cannot get my machine to run anything near that speed. As we discussed, I have checked the power supply and everything seems to be in order there. Any further recommendations?

To anyone else that has built this machine have you had skipping step problems? I seem to have a bad problem and am trying to find a solution to the problem. Any recommendations? I can run around 45 inches per minute and I still have problems with missing steps occasionally.

Hope someone has some insight.

Lorenzo

How long is the cable between the computer and the controller?

Thanks Joe.

I assume that it does not matter that the precut has about 1' of thread at each end.

I finished my first bearing bracket assembly today :)

David

bp092
I had some gas pipe cut at Home Depot and the clamping device they use raises some sharp bumps on the surface of the pipe. I've filed them off but since my machine isn't running yet I don't know if I cured the problem.
Wally

Thanks Joe.

I assume that it does not matter that the precut has about 1' of thread at each end.

I finished my first bearing bracket assembly today :)

David


No, actually the thread helped me thread it into one end with ease, Cut the pipe with a cutoff wheel or a hacksaw.

Okay - thanks for the clarification Joe.

bp092
I had some gas pipe cut at HD and the clamping device raised sharp ridges that needed to be filed. My machine is not done yet so I don't know if everything is smooth enough - I think it is.
Wally

Wally, thanks for the advice..

A quick question about using aluminium instead of mdf - what thickness of aluminium could be used

A quick question about using aluminium instead of mdf - what thickness of aluminium could be used

I would imagine 1/2" and 3/4-1" for side gantry, but i have not done this so just my guess.

Also you would need to beef up the motors, the alumn. will get heavy, altho this is a stout machine to start with, maybe other who built this one can post and log their progress, I know a few have already completed it.

joe

Just checking to see if anyone has the parts for Joe's machine in Vcarve .crv format? I have Vcarve and figure that is my best way to go to cut out the parts.

thanks

The length of cable is 10'

Joe do you have the dust collector in a cad file, I need to make one i got dust everywhere. hahah

Kosymailman,

can't help you much on that as my existing CNC Router (IMService) only has a 12"x12" envelope so I am limited in what I can cut on it for the "BIG" CNC router.

Anyway here are the .crv files for the dust collector.

Hello David.
¿How can I open the dust collector files? If you don't mind I am very interested also in making one, but cant open the files.
Thanks
Hugo Carradini

here are the dwg files, and g-code so you can see it in a cnc simulator or in mach3. I also added some tabs for you. Use 1/8" End mill.

For those who ask, if i cut a 2'x4' piece i usually add some tabs if needed, and also use clamps on the far router end, and carpet tape on other end to hold entire piece in place.

The length of cable is 10'

Joe do you have the dust collector in a cad file, I need to make one i got dust everywhere. hahah

Lorenzo you going to post a log? like to see some pictures, how does it run now?

Just checking to see if anyone has the parts for Joe's machine in Vcarve .crv format? I have Vcarve and figure that is my best way to go to cut out the parts.

thanks

You should be able to import the files into v-carve.

Indeed you can import them, that is what I did with the dust collector then you have to create the toolpaths in VCarve.

David & Joe, thanks for the help. I have been trying to open the dwg files in Vcarve and they do not show up as files to open. As you suggested I went to the import files and see that dwg files are an option.

thanks again

Hi,

VCarve Pro will Open and Import ‘most’ DWG files if you enter the extension manually in the “file name:” dropdown on the Open file dialog. If you enter *.dwg as the filename and press enter, the dialog will show the .dwg files.

However we do NOT officially support this capability and don’t advertise it on the web site. The reason for this is that the DWG is AutCAD’s proprietary file format and they continually change it with each release. We do not have the resources to keep trying to track these changes, so although we can open most .DWG files from AutoCAD 2004 and earlier, we do not advertise or guarantee it.

By all means try the facility and if it works that is great, but if it doesn’t work I’m afraid you will need to get the files translated to DXF format.

I hope this helps,

Tony

if you do not have a way to convert back to 2000 format or others, or just DXF the files, here is a free Lite Cad program, which has the look and feel of AutoCad.

http://www.softlookup.com/download.asp?id=77551

Joe

You can also try the free converter at www.a9tech.com

Lorenzo you going to post a log? like to see some pictures, how does it run now?


Joe I am unable to cure that skipping step problem. I have had to slow the machine to 40ipm and it is fairly reliable at this speed. Any other ideas? I have pulled the y lead screw off of the bearing block on one end and it does not center in the hole. I am trying to resolve this as this is probably one of several problems with my machine.

I will post some vids and pictures once I get it running well, its kinda embarrasing to have a machine that is not functioning right.

Joe I am unable to cure that skipping step problem. I have had to slow the machine to 40ipm and it is fairly reliable at this speed. Any other ideas? I have pulled the y lead screw off of the bearing block on one end and it does not center in the hole. I am trying to resolve this as this is probably one of several problems with my machine.

I will post some vids and pictures once I get it running well, its kinda embarrasing to have a machine that is not functioning right.

if the machine is loosing steps, its either the alignment or the power input feeding the motors, you did set the board vref's correct? (the power supply is the 24v 10amp providing 33vdc +/- end result?).

on the y axis leadscrew the carriage hole and gantry sides should line up perfectly, and this will have the leadscrew centered. the carraiage can how ever be slightly higher or lower if the top 4 5/16" bolts are not adjusted properly, by loosening or tighting the screws in pairs, front two or rear two.

with the power supply even if you are loosing steps on the z-axis then there has to be electonic problem.

Are you able to turn eaisaly by hand or using a variable speed drill to spin the leadscrews?

I would like to see pictures, from angles, and also it moving?

joe

I have downloaded your Solidworks drawings but cannot measure the parts. I can measure the .easm files but not the .sldprt ones. Am I doing something wrong?

Joe I am unable to cure that skipping step problem. I have had to slow the machine to 40ipm and it is fairly reliable at this speed.

I may have miss it but What is the TPI of you leadscrew ??? if you have around 20 TPI ,at 40 ipm it's about the max RPM you'll get from step motor without loosing step !!!

I have downloaded your Solidworks drawings but cannot measure the parts. I can measure the .easm files but not the .sldprt ones. Am I doing something wrong?

I hade the sam problems, I was using "eDrawings 2007"
after I put in the frree registration code under Help->Registration it was working ok...

ok, so yesterday I took the entire machine apart and basically reinstalled the gantry, the bearing blocks and the lead screws. I finally have the machine working properly!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! it appears that there was a small misalignment in the gantry. Once i reinstalled the parts I was able to get the lead screws to align properly with no binding. I have the machine runing smoothly at 90ipm. I will post a video shortly.

I have triple checked the Vref and it is set at 2.5amps for the keiling motors on the X and Y axis. The Z axis is set for 3 amps. Everything appears to be runing normally now. I will post a video later today.

Lorenzo

ok, so yesterday I took the entire machine apart and basically reinstalled the gantry, the bearing blocks and the lead screws. I finally have the machine working properly!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! it appears that there was a small misalignment in the gantry. Once i reinstalled the parts I was able to get the lead screws to align properly with no binding. I have the machine runing smoothly at 90ipm. I will post a video shortly.

I have triple checked the Vref and it is set at 2.5amps for the keiling motors on the X and Y axis. The Z axis is set for 3 amps. Everything appears to be runing normally now. I will post a video later today.

Lorenzo

Ok, great I am very relieved now, i just could not see what the problem whould be the machine is designed in solidworks and everything lining up, Very Glad you got it running.

Looking forward to seeing more on the machine and parts you cut, Maybe you can start a log.

joe

Joe, I have just finished making my bearing slides and have been assembling them, but I think I have found two errors in your construction and hardware listing document.

1. On page 6 "Bearing Slide List of assembly" the 7 1/2" and 6" bearing slides both call for 5/16x1" bolts making a total requirement of 16, but there are only 8 shown in the hardware list. I suspect that the 7 1/2" slides requirement to use 5/16x1" bolts might be wrong as I only get half of the thread of the final nut on before I run out of bolt and therefore perhaps these should be 1 1/4" bolts.

Of course it could be that I am missing something, but either way could you please clarify.


Thanks

David

2. On page 6 "Bearing Slide List of assembly", the 6" bearing slide states that it requires 4 5/16" nuts, (one between the bearing and angle alumn.) however if that's the case the bearings will fall of the bolt. I therefore think that this should say that 8 5/16" nuts are required for each 6" bearing slide.

One further question on the slides; I have seen pictures of the slides assembled with the head of the bolt on the outside (visible when installed) and on the inside of the angle bracket.

I think on the outside looks cleaner, but can someone confirm that with the bolt head on the outside that it won't hit the bearing blocks. I would test this but I do not have my kit yet.

Thanks

One further question on the slides; I have seen pictures of the slides assembled with the head of the bolt on the outside (visible when installed) and on the inside of the angle bracket.

I think on the outside looks cleaner, but can someone confirm that with the bolt head on the outside that it won't hit the bearing blocks. I would test this but I do not have my kit yet.

Thanks


I will look at the 7 1/2" when i get home from work.

If you install the head on the outside, just make sure you have enough clearance on the inside at the bolt so it does not bottom out before placing the bearing slide all the way inside reccess area that it sits within, it is a 1/8" channel to lock the bearing into place.

Thanks Joe, please also check th 6 as I think the instuction call for 4 nuts when it should be 8.

Thanks Joe, please also check th 6 as I think the instuction call for 4 nuts when it should be 8.

yes 8 on the 6", and the 7.5" uses 5/16"x1" you can go larger.

it is always a good idea to get mote supplies than needed.

joe

Thanks Joe.

anyone else receive joe's kit :) post pics and progress of your build!

anyone else receive joe's kit :) post pics and progress of your build!

Yahoooooo, FedEX was good to me today! :)
Haven't unpacked it yet. Will unpack it tomorrow and maybe get started this weekend. Will start a log and post as I go.

Dave, how is your's coming along?

Thanks Joe!!!!

William

Yahoooooo, FedEX was good to me today! :)
Haven't unpacked it yet. Will unpack it tomorrow and maybe get started this weekend. Will start a log and post as I go.

Dave, how is your's coming along?

Thanks Joe!!!!

William


Awesome, post pics while you unpack! :rainfro: :) Did you get the full kit from Joe? Document the build and have fun.

Awesome, post pics while you unpack! :rainfro: :) Did you get the full kit from Joe? Document the build and have fun.

bp092,

Thanks!

I will post as I go. Yes, full kit. I have all of the hardware just been waiting for the big day.
Plan on taking my time and get everything primed and painted.
I have not yet put the power supply together nor the driver board from HobbyCNC. So much to do and now... the holidays. I might give up turkey so I can work on it, or not... :)

Do you have one of Joe's machines?

William

Looking forward to seeing your build log.

Can't wait for mine.

I have spent the last couple of days working on the PC/Controller.

I will post a couple of pictures tomorrow of some of the PC mods I have been doing.

David

I have ordered some of the hardware like the Acme rods, drill rod, lovejoys, skate bearings. Tonight I went to Lowes and got the 1/4 threaded rods and 1 1/2x1 1/2 angle (could not find the 1 1/4x 1 1/4 - will cut 1/4 off the 1 1/2).

I have a couple of questions:

1) I am fixing to order the HDPE but I need to know how much to order. I cannot tell from the drawings which parts are HDPE and which are mdf - am I missing something on the drawings?

2) For some reason I thought Joe had changed all the parts to 1/2 in. thick but when I measure the Solidworks drawings a lot of the parts are 3/4 in. Are these drawings correct and I can use them to get my measurements?

thanks

Kos,

if you're referring to the autocad drawings then you're right, they are all 2d and Joe converts them to gcode sep. Take a look at some of the pages in this thread, the HDPE parts are all of the ones with the bearing blocks, the router holder, and a few others. Have you considered buying atleast some of the parts from Joe? He is selling kits for this and even cutting all of the HDPE parts as well. It might take care of some headaches and save time.

Home depot sells 1 1/4 aluminum angle, just look in the larger stacks, they only sell it in 8 footers around here. Any metal supply in your area should carry it, just check around. I wouldn't waste your time cutting the 1 1/2..

Guys, you might want to try ordering the angle aluminium from metalexpress.net, they are very good all the aluminium angle cut to size (they add 1/4" to measurement) cost me $43 including tax and delivery.

I tend to order all my aluminum stock from them.

David

Joe, what do you charge for the HDPE parts kit and how long does it take for them to arrive? Reading through the forum, it seems you are very busy.

thanks

Joe, what do you charge for the HDPE parts kit and how long does it take for them to arrive? Reading through the forum, it seems you are very busy.

thanks

sent you a message.

I have a question on the drawings. The X axis bearing block .sldprt file show 8 holes and the .dwg files show 4. Which is correct.

thanks

Joe, what do you charge for the HDPE parts kit and how long does it take for them to arrive? Reading through the forum, it seems you are very busy.

thanks

Same quote needed here Joe!!!!

Thanks

Joe, I have read all 44 pages and have come to the conclusion that you are a "one in a million" type person because of your efforts and willingness to help everyone. You and all of the other users that have contributed to this thread of "Joe's CNC model 2006" have inspired me to participate in creating a CNC wood router. I would like a quote for your kit and I have a few questions to ask you as well so I think I will put it all together in an email and send it off to you. I just want to say, Thanks...

Joe, did you do any prep to the gas pipes (cleaning , sanding etc).

Thanks

David

Joe, did you do any prep to the gas pipes (cleaning , sanding etc).

Thanks

David

i lightly sanded them, just to make them smooth.

joe

Thought I would post picture of my Small (but efficent to me) Work Area.

Thought I would post picture of my Small (but efficent to me) Work Area.


lol, look at the bright side, it isn't exactly a bad thing going to do the laundry, because well, atleast you have something to kill time with :rainfro: :wee: How many kits have you cut so far? Keep up the good work man!

Very neat Joe, but why is'nt it cutting ;)

What dust extraction system are you using?

Joe, you own the same Bostitch air compressor that I have. I really like it compared to most of the other "pancake" style compressors that I have used. The induction motor weighs a ton, but it keeps up with just about everything that I can throw at it!

One of these days, when I clean up my workshop, I'll post a picture of it.

David, the dust collector in Joe's picture is a Delta AP400. Here's the site: http://www.deltamachinery.com/index.asp?e=136&p=852

Yeah bostich makes pretty good solid products, I have both bostich and porter cable nailers and the bostich is up there with performance, I'm sure their compressors are the same. Same on the delta dust collector, I just have to switch from PVC to Metal hvac because I'm losing a ton of suction with my blast gates and so many ports and tons of static build up. Joe do you pretty much get everything with that dust collector? I would imagine since it's directly ported that it shouldn't put any fibers into the air. Down the road I will probably buy a dust collection adapter as well ;)

this is what i am using now with the Delta...

Post #14 to start

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27189

Well Been busy, and with the thanksgiving holiday it slowed down the cutting of kit, but I will be shipping out tommarrow, and send e-mail to those who i am sending to.

For those who are not ready or my machine is to much to tackel for them right now, LIONCLAW is offering a kit now which may work for you better at this time, please look at his machine, and he also made a online store to order from, here is his link to his plog. Stop by there if you have not already and check it out.

Some may ask why would you post about another machine that is offered as a kit?

Well to me it is simple this is a hobby for me and this forum has offered so much to everyone, I just want everyone to have the best advantage available to them to be able to build a machine and experiance to joy i have in this hobby.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14331

Thanks, Joe

thanks Joe, I have confidence in you, I know you're working as hard as you can.. I will enjoy your build though and hopefully all of these build logs, photos and vids are making you smile, as in that all the hard work has paid off :)

ditto that

Hey Joe, was going to pm you but decided that the answer might be beneficial to not just me. Ever consider using servos with this design or for a future mod of this one? If so, do you think it would give you the ability to up the IPM that you're running now? (I think you said you were runnin' 90 IPM). And do servos ever lose steps, I'm assuming not, but can they crap out in somewhat of the same way if they are pushed too hard? Thanks!

Hey Joe, was going to pm you but decided that the answer might be beneficial to not just me. Ever consider using servos with this design or for a future mod of this one? If so, do you think it would give you the ability to up the IPM that you're running now? (I think you said you were runnin' 90 IPM). And do servos ever lose steps, I'm assuming not, but can they crap out in somewhat of the same way if they are pushed too hard? Thanks!

No have not thought about servos on it, i would imagine you could increase speed somewhat, but the leadscrew is a limiting factor also the 10tpi, you can increase speed with a two start screw, this increases speed as well as touque, but to be honest i'm very happy with the speed the machine runs now, its more managable to me.

servos would not loose possition because of encoders.

joe

Thanks for the info. Just curious, not really interested ATM, but wondered if that's something down the road for you. Possibly linear rails like THK servos and ball screw, but then you start to want to use aluminum ;) with that money spent.

Has anyone come up with a good strategy for cutting the long pieces of Joes machine on a jgro machine?


lurking for 2 years.. finally a good reason to post.

Pay Joe to cut them? Here, just hit the easy button (http://www.cnczone.com/forums/private.php?do=newpm&u=5702)
:D

Joe,

Looking at the attachment of the two pipes on the x axis it looks like there's NO adjustment for those pipes to make sure the left is perfectly parallel with the right side. Is this true or is there an adjustment mechanism? Or is it just that you get them straight and the adjustment is just not necessary? Thanks.

Rance

acually there is a slight adjustment you make with the tension bolts on the side by tighting the two bottom and two top will list or lower the side and the same for the front two and rear two in unisone will square it up slightly, the overall machine does not need hardly any adjustment if built quareed up.

The above is also true with the top of the Z-Axis carriage.

joe

I've found after 7 months of use that the pipe wears differently in different parts depending on where you cut the most. I can shim(and have) my pipe supports to compensate for the wear.

Since MDF is so soft on the edges, I would expect crushing where the pipe rides after time.

what about using a chemical wood hardener or an epoxy? Stuff makes wood rock solid once cured..

I've found after 7 months of use that the pipe wears differently in different parts depending on where you cut the most. I can shim(and have) my pipe supports to compensate for the wear.

Since MDF is so soft on the edges, I would expect crushing where the pipe rides after time.

since the pipes are not epoxie'd into place like i have seen other models, I have rotated the pipes slightly (turn with hand have to have a good grip) :) , only once since the machine has been built, have pleanty of times for more rotation.

what about using a chemical wood hardener or an epoxy? Stuff makes wood rock solid once cured..

mine has not compressed.

Joe I noticed in your picture that you don't have and 1/4-20 threaded rod on the x axis torsion box which in your assembly instructions you say is optional. Is there any consensus on whether they help with rigidity? Also I noticed that you have two extra threaded rods spanning the gantry sides half way down which are not mentioned in the assembly instruction nor are there holes provided, are they required/ recommended?

Thanks

David

David, I asked Joe about those rods awhile back when he was posting pics. He mentioned he put them in later on for added stability. After months I think his started to sag ever so slightly, not much at all, but he added them in just to be safe for accuracy, but he might be able to answer a little better.

Pay Joe to cut them? Here, just hit the easy button (http://www.cnczone.com/forums/private.php?do=newpm&u=5702)
:D

Thanks for the funny suggestion, but I have my own JGRO router, and Joe stated early on that he made his first one on his JGRO also.

I was just wondering how it was accomplished?

Assuming it was done in two separate operations, how is the workpiece affixed so that the 2nd operation is perfectly aligned with work already completed on the 1st pass?

Joe I noticed in your picture that you don't have and 1/4-20 threaded rod on the x axis torsion box which in your assembly instructions you say is optional. Is there any consensus on whether they help with rigidity? Also I noticed that you have two extra threaded rods spanning the gantry sides half way down which are not mentioned in the assembly instruction nor are there holes provided, are they required/ recommended?

Thanks

David

the X-axis i just never got around to adding them, they will certainly help, however over a year i have not needed them, Also over the year of using the machine the side bowed slightly, and instead of adding a side brace i just added to threaded rods which worked out well, and i will also thinking about changing the dust collection to utilize it somehow and the tool move in and out of it.

joe

Thanks for the clarification.

I will be interested in what you come up for a revised dust collection Joe.

Thanks

David

Joe,

After thinking about your response for 3 days and looking at your drawings I believe what you are talking about are the bolts that tighten the tension of the gantry to the bed rails. That works great if the 4 bed rails are all parallel to each other. I don't believe I stated my question clearly. What I'm asking about is do you have adjustments to get the 4 bed rails parallel to each other? If these are not parallel, then no amount of adjusting of the gantry tension bolts will fix the problem.

I'm guessing that since the 4 bed rails are supported by "identically made" sections of the torsion box, then it is close enough. Thanks for your time. :) Of course, if anyone else understands what I'm talking about, please feel free to reply.

Rance

Joe I just discovered this thread and wanted to tell you how cool this is. I sent you a private message but I wanted to thank you for your work here.

ron paulsen

Rance, there are four 1/4-20 treaded rods that run the length of the x-axis bed and I am sure there is a small amount of adjustment available via those (they are not shown in the pictures of Joe's own machine) but as summized I think the accuracy of the cnc work one the machine parts is high enough to allow "appropriate" accuracy for this type of machine.

David

Thanks David. That tells me exactly what I needed to know. :) My machine base is a similar torsion box and I didn't know if I needed to build in some adjustment for that. Nice design Joe.

It's funny you guys are talking about the 1/4-20 rods. I just ran a set just above the bottom torsion box of the Y axis. I noticed that I seemed to get a little bow out there. And really IMHO the joint between the Y axis torsion box and the sides of the Y axis is the weakest joint on the whole machine. After putting these rods in it really tightened up the whole bottom of the gantry. I also installed some bolts on the sides of the gantry to stiffen things up. I would have posted some pictures but my batteries were dead so I'm charging them up. I'll try to get some pics up later to help show what I'm talking about.

I am planing on building one soon, are you going to sell plans for this?

I am planing on building one soon, are you going to sell plans for this?

Reading some of the comments about building this machine without the benefits of another CNC machine to produce precision parts .

in my mind with repetative jigged setups on the tablesaw and drillpress and then the liberal use of rubbed glueblocks on all joints on assembly I believe an accurate strong machine can be built.

Reading some of the comments about building this machine without the benefits of another CNC machine to produce precision parts .

in my mind with repetative jigged setups on the tablesaw and drillpress and then the liberal use of rubbed glueblocks on all joints on assembly I believe an accurate strong machine can be built.

You're absolutely right. Joe built this with the intention that anyone could build it as well with decent tools or with their jgro as he did originally. He only offered the kit because of popularity and time and hassle it saves. All it takes is for you to be a 1/16" off on your axis's and you're going to get a headache. And for that to happen you only need to be a 32nd here, and a 32nd there and bam you're off. It's doable templating everything but in my eyes and many others it's more economical to either have Joe cut it or to have someone with a cnc to do it for you. That way you can focus on the controller and other mechanical parts.

I am planing on building one soon, are you going to sell plans for this?


Dan, plans are free, even the 3d models and autocad files + PDF instructional and where to get some of the hard to find parts.

Joe's link for the zip is somewhere, but to save time I just uploaded it again for you and anyone else. Joe if you updated these files in the past few weeks let me know so I'm not giving out old files..

http://www.dkahost.com/joecnc/Joes%20CNC%20Model%202006%20R-2.zip

:rainfro:

Anyone heard from Joe? Tried to send a private message but his box is full

He's away for the weekend, people are probably flooding his box with pms lol. I'm sure he will respond this week.

Well i hope people can forgive me i was away for a few days, and back now, I just need to catch up on some emails, and some threads. Once again i'm sorry if anyone thought i vanished or anything.

thanks

You're absolutely right. Joe built this with the intention that anyone could build it as well with decent tools or with their jgro as he did originally. He only offered the kit because of popularity and time and hassle it saves. All it takes is for you to be a 1/16" off on your axis's and you're going to get a headache. And for that to happen you only need to be a 32nd here, and a 32nd there and bam you're off. It's doable templating everything but in my eyes and many others it's more economical to either have Joe cut it or to have someone with a cnc to do it for you. That way you can focus on the controller and other mechanical parts.

I don't have problems with the mechanical parts ,the electronics yes, having serving an apprenticeship shortly after Babbage came up with the computer.

So I am struggling to get some idea how the electronics work, CNC basics,and computer interactions, but as they say we shall overcome . Headaches can be resolved, the impossible we do all the time, miracles take a little longer.

The only metalworking tool I have in the my shop is a drill press so that together with the woodworking tools will have to suffice to build Joe's machine . Regarding local sources [friends]of CNC machines I do not know of any locally.

As far as MDF goes It has good and not so good qualities .It is good as far as dimensional consistancy but lacks the strength of basic hardwoods .Little is known regard to its dimensional stability in high humidity or elevated temperatures. Hardwood on the other hand moves pretty much cross grain but very little along the grain. My main concern is the bearing strength at the black pipe housings on the outsides of the torsion boxes . Perhaps it would be better to use hardwood here with the grain vertical.

Probably the best source of info regarding crushing of black pipe housings is actually Joe's machine as it has some appreciable operating time on it

The only downside to MDF for me is that you have to countersink and predrill all screws and often nails (not brads, but larger finishing nails), it's very heavy and it will wear your tooling like no other material you will have. And it's extremely dangerous when airborne although I breathe it all the time. But that's pretty much it. Other than that it paints incredibly well (faces, edges need to be filled or banded), it's very cheap, extremely stable in all dimensions and resists both heat and moisture well if it is finished. I wouldn't ever reccomend using a hardwood in any type of accurate machinery. Hardwoods (most) move much across the grain as they do with the grain. They will cup, bow, warp, and MDF is manufactored to resist that if used properly. If you use hardwood along the pipe supports its going to move (whether you finish it or not) and twist the entire torsion box. Zero that thing out in the summer and come winter time the thing will be all off, guarantee it. Joe has seen little movement if at all in his design over months of intense use. It's good for what it is though, it's not aluminum so you can't expect it to have the same accuracy or long term strength, but hell it's damn close!

The only downside to MDF for me is that you have to countersink and predrill all screws and often nails (not brads, but larger finishing nails), it's very heavy and it will wear your tooling like no other material you will have. And it's extremely dangerous when airborne although I breathe it all the time. But that's pretty much it. Other than that it paints incredibly well (faces, edges need to be filled or banded), it's very cheap, extremely stable in all dimensions and resists both heat and moisture well if it is finished. I wouldn't ever reccomend using a hardwood in any type of accurate machinery. Hardwoods (most) move much across the grain as they do with the grain. They will cup, bow, warp, and MDF is manufactored to resist that if used properly. If you use hardwood along the pipe supports its going to move (whether you finish it or not) and twist the entire torsion box. Zero that thing out in the summer and come winter time the thing will be all off, guarantee it. Joe has seen little movement if at all in his design over months of intense use. It's good for what it is though, it's not aluminum so you can't expect it to have the same accuracy or long term strength, but hell it's damn close!

I agree with the comments regarding tool wear, however I do not know of anyone who uses finishing nails with MDF . most folks I am aware of use sheetrock screws and even then not in "MDF end grain" because that generally results in the the end grain splitting out or separating.

MDF is made from softwood and urea formaldehyde resin and is porus . consequently it is somewhat suseptable to the same variations that wood is with regards to temperature and humidity ,it's main redeeming factor being that it is by design a homogenious material and thus subject to less variations than it's parent wood .

The variations in expansion regarding temperature,for wood in the direction of the grain and any direction of an equivalent piece of aluminum a rough figure for the wood would be 2.7in/in degree F. 10 minus 6 and for aluminum 12.3in/in degree F.10 minus 6...... a dam site closer for wood in keeping within
tolerance I would say

I built my torsion boxes and edge banded them with 1/4 hardwood. I mounted al channel to those surfaces and used the channel as a support for my pipe rails. I've had no distortion in 7 months of operation. I just didn't trust using the ends of MDF as a bearing surface for the pipes. Some pretty significant forces are needed to keep the bearings riding correctly on the pipe.

I built my torsion boxes and edge banded them with 1/4 hardwood. I mounted al channel to those surfaces and used the channel as a support for my pipe rails.

Any pictures of the alum channel modification

Any pictures of the alum channel modification

Not really a modification of any specific design....unless it was Gerry's. Anyway, my build log (never ending!):

My Blog (http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14863)

Joe,

Still can't get a provate message through. Can you email me the best way to get in touch. rbartko@aristec.com

Rich Bartko
Georgetown, TX
512-868-2862

I tried also with no avail.

If your still building kits, I am interested.

beglackin@yahoo.com

Thanks

I cleared some messages.

for those who did not have the link to the files, here it is for your person use.

http://www.lumenlab.com/~joe2000chevy/CNC_Model_2006_R-1/

thanks, joe

[QUOTE=joe2000che;229733]I cleared some messages.

for those who did not have the link to the files, here it is for your person use.

http://www.lumenlab.com/~joe2000chevy/CNC_Model_2006_R-1/

thanks, joe[/QUOT


how do I get dimensions from these drawings . the dimension aspects seem to be greyed out on my downloads regards mjh

Register the Viewer, its free, then you should have the measure tool.

[QUOTE=joe2000che;229733]I cleared some messages.

for those who did not have the link to the files, here it is for your person use.

http://www.lumenlab.com/~joe2000chevy/CNC_Model_2006_R-1/

thanks, joe[/QUOT


how do I get dimensions from these drawings . the dimension aspects seem to be greyed out on my downloads regards mjh

since the pipes are not epoxie'd into place like i have seen other models, I have rotated the pipes slightly (turn with hand have to have a good grip) :) , only once since the machine has been built, have pleanty of times for more rotation.

A couple of questions if you don't mind , What is the reason for the pipe supports extending more on one side than the other, I amm assuming to get the router to operate all the way to one edge of the bed. Did you stick with ther regular acme nuts or did you end up with an antibacklash version. I may have confused your build with Lionclaws .

third as the gantry structure acts as a portal do you get much flexure of the gantry sides under loads

A couple of questions if you don't mind , What is the reason for the pipe supports extending more on one side than the other, I amm assuming to get the router to operate all the way to one edge of the bed. Did you stick with ther regular acme nuts or did you end up with an antibacklash version. I may have confused your build with Lionclaws .

third as the gantry structure acts as a portal do you get much flexure of the gantry sides under loads

the pipe go into the end pieces .25" to make them even 36" (Y axis) and 60" (X-Axis) also for astetic reasons, the pipe could go all the way through if someone likes, JLT has done this ( http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28665 ) in his build, and works just fine.

I use my double nut for anti-backlash.

If you look at my video's (search google videos "cnc model 2006")you can see i added two threaded rods across the middle of the machine to keep the sides from flexing/bowing which it did over time from the pressure this is the only addition i had to do to the machine of nearly a year of operation.

http://video.google.com/videosearch?hl=en&q=cnc%20model%202006&btnG=Google+Search&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wv

All of those are joe's running hdpe I believe.

the pipe go into the end pieces .25" to make them even 36" (Y axis) and 60" (X-Axis) also for astetic reasons, the pipe could go all the way through if someone likes, JLT has done this ( http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28665 ) in his build, and works just fine.

I use my double nut for anti-backlash.

If you look at my video's (search google videos "cnc model 2006")you can see i added two threaded rods across the middle of the machine to keep the sides from flexing/bowing which it did over time from the pressure this is the only addition i had to do to the machine of nearly a year of operation.

Thanks for the reply Joe and thanks again for letting us in on every aspect of your wonderful machine . Just about to start the trip myself...

Hi Joe,
I’ve just started jointing your thread and can only agree with every one else… VERY nice work and hats off to you !

I’ve also check out the other ones work inspired buy your design ( JLT & Davis DaCosta)and all this as giving me the itch to joint in & make my version too!!
One thing I would really be appreciative of is if you could make your drawing available in STEP.
I use Inventor by AutoDesk and even after transferring the Pro-E_.prt files to .ipt ( Inventor extension), it has its limitations.
Sure I could go with dwg extension, but again… why go back to 2D when we can use 3D ??

Call me a bit lazy since I’ve not yet read all 48 pages of this thread and therefore not sure if this as already been address !!???...
Thanks in advance for considering
Robert

email me and i will send the stl files i have from solidworks, 8.4 megs total.

joecnc2006 at yahoo

done !
Robert

I'm a little new to the CNC world and I'm trying to get a small CNC set-up for home projects. I was looking at your designs and I like what I'm seeing, it's cheaper and easier to make with the wood than with aluminum. Do you plan on selling plans for this design? If so please let me know it looks great for a hobby shop.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
Todd

Todd, check post 70 above and follow the link.

David

I looked at 70 not much help, did you mean 709-711 they did have drawings but no dimensions. I guess I need to download a viewer?

Todd

Yes you need to download the e-drawings viewer and register it then you will be able to get the dimensions from the drawings.

David

Not bad still it will not leave dim on the drawing to print it out to build it. I found I can dim in ACAD or Soildworks but not 3d. Now comes to fun of building it.

Todd

Look at post #717.

I did write an email to him I'm waiting for an answer back! What about the drives and electronics to run this any ideas?

Todd

Hi all :D

I have to get your attention on this.

It may not come to a surprise to those who knows Joe. He just spent a great deal of time to satisfy my particular request. ( See post : http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpost.php?p=230950&postcount=716 )

Since I have AutoDesk Inventor as my 3D cad, it can open some 3D files but not .stl extensions, witch are what SoldWorks files are, and what Joe’s plan are originally from.
Well, let me tell you, Joe has taking the time to individually re-save as all his files to make sure I could be a happy camper and have a better looking at all his work(plans) !!

THANK YOU VERY MUCH JOE, hat off to you guy !! :wee:
Robert

I was looking at the pictures earlier and noticed that the pipes on the gantry are much longer than the gantry is wide...call me a newbie cuz I am but why is that? Thanks
Lance

Hacksaw, I am not sure what you are looking at, but the gas pipes are 36" long and the gantry is 36.5 wide. Are you sure you are not looking at the y- axis lead screw which is wider than the gantry?

It turns out I was looking at JLTs build of Joes machine with the automatic tool changer.It may even be pictures taken in the early stages of construction.I was confused by the pictures and wanted clarification(which I got thanks guys I was beginning to think I was st00pid)

This could be of use for the "STL" file format conversion to Acad.

http://www.openrp.com/index.html

Paul

I uploaded the latest files, stl, step etc. and also make sure the latest dwg files are there. Plus a few video files i had that are on google.

http://www.lumenlab.com/~joe2000chevy/CNC_Model_2006_R-1/

Joe

I have taken Joes 2-D drawings and converted them to 3-d in Sketch-up. I know most of you do not use this software but I have seen a couple. This might be a good file for those who want to try the software out some. Anyway I am posting them here (with Joe's permission) for any one who wants them. One file contains all of the Axis together. The other files are ecah axis by itself. If you are running a computer that is remotely slow then I suggest not getting the one with all of them together. If you find a problem with the files please let me know and I will work to correct them.

Dwayne


EDIT: I FOUND A PROBLEM WITH THE X AXIS. I have now uploaded the corrected files.

Files in Sketch-up
For those interested here is a link to a free (supposedly) download of google Sketch-up: http://sketchup.google.com/download.html
Caution: you may end up with the damnable google toolbar installed if you don't uncheck a box.

Joe maybe I'm a little slow, but even the new set of drawings don't have dimensions. I know you can view them in e-drawing, but they don’t stay so you can print a blueprint to work from. I brought them up in ACAD again no numbers to work from, am I doing some thing wrong or are there no dimensions on them?



Todd

Joe maybe I'm a little slow, but even the new set of drawings don't have dimensions. I know you can view them in e-drawing, but they don’t stay so you can print a blueprint to work from. I brought them up in ACAD again no numbers to work from, am I doing some thing wrong or are there no dimensions on them?



Todd

No they are not diminsioned, they are not a set of plans, more on the lines to help people build it if they like, I just do not have the time to diminsion then and produce a set of plans, As i mentioned before if someone like to do it and send to me to help others that would be great.

Joe

Here is a simple and quick way to preload your leadscrews after tighting the acme nut against the bearings. I just simply drilled and tapped the acme nut with a 10-24x3/8 screw, you can go smaller but this is what i had onhand. Sorry for the quality of picture i just took it real quick with cell phone.

joe

Joe maybe I'm a little slow, but even the new set of drawings don't have dimensions. I know you can view them in e-drawing, but they don’t stay so you can print a blueprint to work from. I brought them up in ACAD again no numbers to work from, am I doing some thing wrong or are there no dimensions on them?



Todd

you can just use the dimensioning tools in autocad or print them out in 1:1 scale and use them as a template. thats what I do for drilling holes I don't have a mill handy for good hole location, for the bigger parts have them printed at a business depot or something.

I've started doing them in ACAD with dim when I get them done I'll email you.

Todd

Part of the problem with supplying dimenssions is that Joe's machine will cut his parts very well. Someone elses machine might not. I have already discovered that my machine will not hold the tolerences well enough. I will either have to modify the drawings or use some form of offset in my software. A part of me says that if you cannot dimenssion parts then you need more time with your chosen CAD/Drawing program. Dimenssioning is a very basic skill set needed in any program you use. If you have not learned how to do that yet then you are probably not ready to build a machine or design things to cut out. I have been using my software for a year now and have only scratched the surface of what it can do. I or probably 100's of others from the forum could dimmension these drawings by the end of the day today. If someone were to take them and spend a week cutting parts that do not fit,or fit as they expect....then what? My suggestion would be to buy the parts from Joe, at least one of each (if he offers this) and then use a router to patern cut however many you need. Just my 2 cents worth.

Dwayne

Part of the problem with supplying dimenssions is that Joe's machine will cut his parts very well. Someone elses machine might not. I have already discovered that my machine will not hold the tolerences well enough.
Dwayne

you are correct, machine to machine are different tolerances, i have even seen it on my machine from different bits, and also the source you get materials from can vary, if you look at the DWG files you will see where there is 0.50 for material thickness, mine are 0.52" in places, this alows for material and bit differences, I try to get the same material and bits from same sources all the time bit it is hard. depends on what is in stock.

also the 0.52" will alow for a bit of glue to get in there and help out.

Joe

My first router on my machine was the Harbour Frieght model. Ran well and was fairly quiet. But once tested I found that my .250 bit acctually cut a .280 slot. Changed routers to a Dewalt and now with the same bit I get a .250 slot. You have to plan for what you have to work with.

Dwayne

Joe,

I downloaded the DWG files you posted for R-2. I noticed that the three files

CNC Router End Support Front Piece
CNC Router End Support Inside Piece
CNC Router End Support Rear Piece

All appear to be identical. In looking at the drawings, I would say that they are all the Inside piece. I say this since they all have the holes for the pipe as well as the cutouts to reduce weight.

Is it fair to say that the front and rear pieces will not have the pipe through cuts and will be solid (except for fastener holes)?

THanks for your time and effort in this endeavour.

That is correct BMG. The front and rear end support pieces are made up of two sections, the inner one for each has the holw in it for the gas pipe and the outer sections for each does not. The gas pipe therefore goes 1/2" into the assembled end section.

Hope that helps

David

The front and rear pieces are mirror images of each other. and as David mentioned, the cutouts and also the pipe holes go into the material 0.25" to make up the 60" gas pipes, the outer pieces it is not as critical to have the center cutouts on them, i just did this for weight.

Also remember gas pipes you purchase may be slightly larger than the 36" and 60" and may need to be cut down to size.

Joe

Here is a simple and quick way to preload your leadscrews after tighting the acme nut against the bearings. I just simply drilled and tapped the acme nut with a 10-24x3/8 screw, you can go smaller but this is what i had onhand. Sorry for the quality of picture i just took it real quick with cell phone.

joe

Joe where in the forum is leadscrew preload discussed ? also is the 1/2" leadscrew plain or threaded where it connects to the 1/2" bore Lovejoy. ? Finally from the picture in your parts list it appears the love joy has a keyway slot. If it is a grubscrew ,allenscrew arrangement attaching a acme threaded rod to the love joy is not a particularly elegant combination .

On my kit from Joe ....

The leadscrews you acquire yourself.

The leadscrew specified is a standard ACME 10 TPI x 0.50

The ends are NOT turned down - requires a Lovejoy with 0.05 ID on the leadscrew half.

The Lovejoys specified in Joe's assembly manual use an allen set screw (1).

May not be elegant but it works.

The load on the leadscrew is provided either by double ACME nuts on each end or you can make up an ACME nut with set screw holes bored into opposing sides (I used 1/4-20 setscrews). I chose the latter so that the Lovejoy does not ride against the double ACME nuts.

The load used varies I guess. Mine are thumb tight with excellent results for the 48 hours I have had it running. I think I recall Joe indicating thumb tight was "right."

I am running 90 IPM rapids without issue in testing.......

Regards,
George

Joe where in the forum is leadscrew preload discussed ? also is the 1/2" leadscrew plain or threaded where it connects to the 1/2" bore Lovejoy. ? Finally from the picture in your parts list it appears the love joy has a keyway slot. If it is a grubscrew ,allenscrew arrangement attaching a acme threaded rod to the love joy is not a particularly elegant combination .

No the lovejoy does not have a keyway slot, its a standard picture they use, or atleast the ones i have bought to not have them and i have bought them three seperate times, they use a setscrew.

yes leadscrew is threaded all the way. and setscrew clamps down on it.

I use preload to just put a little presure to help prevent whipping to an extent.

No the lovejoy does not have a keyway slot, its a standard picture they use, or atleast the ones i have bought to not have them and i have bought them three seperate times, they use a setscrew.

yes leadscrew is threaded all the way. and setscrew clamps down on it.

I use preload to just put a little presure to help prevent whipping to an extent.

Thanks George and Joe for clearing that up...regards mike hide

hey Joe how much does your Z axis weigh the part that travels with router mine seems to be very heavy don't have measured weight but thinking it may be to heavy? I have 276oz/in motors

thanks

Rob

truman, I have the xylotex 269 oz/iin steppers and it moves the z axis fine with the router in place.

my z axis may be a bit heavier due to the slide piece being alluminum

I use the HobbyCNC 200oz kit with no problems, uni-polar drives.

What is your power supply? volts and amps?

mine 36v 10amp

36V 10A as well with an arcsin board bipolar

36V 10A as well with an arcsin board bipolar

Looking at your machine i really do not see any problem with the router being pulled back up with the motor, just make sure the controllor board is dialed in to motor, and software setup properly, if it is heavy you can alwayz use springs as a counter weight, I did that on a machine where i used 100oz hp motors.

thanks Joe. I hope to get it running this week

LOL I was wondering where you guys were getting such long ribs from for the larger box. I was like man, maybe joe forgot :( then looked and I'm like, wait those two go together don't they! I'm tired I guess :(. Got all of them glued up, what a smart move joe.

LOL I was wondering where you guys were getting such long ribs from for the larger box. I was like man, maybe joe forgot :( then looked and I'm like, wait those two go together don't they! I'm tired I guess :(. Got all of them glued up, what a smart move joe.

Don't feel like the Lone Ranger, I went so far as to contact Joe to let him know I didn't get the longer ribs. Joe politely let me know that I in fact did get the pieces and that's how he designed it. Duh, I sure felt like an idiot.

It's very clear by this and other things he's done that he has put a lot of thought into his design! I'll go so far as to say, this is the best project I've worked on. I am having as much fun (except for the painting :rolleyes: ) putting mine together as I am watching everyone elses builds!

Great job Joe!

Yes, the design is extremely well thought out. Hey painting isn't that bad, but it would be easier to pull out the hvlp and compressor and just shoot it all in minutes. I might do it for the top coat.

Joe did you use all 1/2" MDF? or did you leave the top of the XY box in 3/4" stuff?

Mike, it is all 1/2" except for back of the z axis slide if I remember correctly

Mike, it is all 1/2" except for back of the z axis slide if I remember correctly

I have access to alot more 3/4" MDF than 1/2". Except for the weight issue, would using 3/4" for the bottom create issues? And in those cases where there are two matching 1/2" pieces mated, would 1" work as well. I have access to that as well.

Rich

It might cause issues so I will let Joe answer this. I remember when Joe went from version 1 to 2 to save weight he had to do some changes to account for the thickness changes.

Rich, check around, I would be suprised if you couldn't find a supplier somewhere. Try yahoo local or let me know where you're from and I will find you a supplier. Hell I think even home depot sells quarter and half inch in smaller dimensions (only 3/4 for full sheets). It will be significantly heavier plus you will have to change alot of the cutouts as they are all snug fits for half inch. Have you considered just having joe cut the kit? It was a lot easier for me, even despite having access to all the materials, tools etc.. just can't justify the time spent cutting them manually, it's just not economical for me and many others.

Joe did you use all 1/2" MDF? or did you leave the top of the XY box in 3/4" stuff?

the only 3/4" is the back of the router mount, and the top & bottom plated fo the Z Ax-s carriage.

joe

Thanks for the feedback regarding 3/4" MDF. Actually I have considered having Joe cut my parts. Just saving my pennies and getting impatient in the mean time. I still haven't seen a understandable estimate for the non-Joe parts. I bought a Milwaukie 3.5HP router and have been waiting for a CNC table to grow around it. I put it in a sunny window and talk to it every day but nothings happened yet.
Rich
Georgetown, TX (Austin)

Rich, do you mean all the hardware neccesary beyond the kit? It's all listed in Joe's manual. Almost all of it can be bought online and Joe suggested sites to get it from cheap. I got all my nuts and bolts and what have you from boltdepot.com, got the cart saved if anyone needs it without trying to find everything manually. ;)

Joe, Can you Email, the details on your Kit? Price ect.
Thanks, Larry
Ledinger@redshift.com

Rich, do you mean all the hardware neccesary beyond the kit? It's all listed in Joe's manual. Almost all of it can be bought online and Joe suggested sites to get it from cheap. I got all my nuts and bolts and what have you from boltdepot.com, got the cart saved if anyone needs it without trying to find everything manually. ;)

No, not the hardware in Joe's list (I've got my shopping list put together based on his list) but the motors and electronics side (not the PC, have them around)

Your saved cart sounds like a good idea. Is it emailable?

Rich

Well here is the hardware tally for Joe's build that I got. The nuts and bolts are from bolt depot.com below and don't include the ubolts, got those from home depot. If I'm missing anything let me know and I will edit. I've had two pms so far so I thought I would post it here as well. Remember I got these from joe's manual, so don't be afraid to do the same as well heh. :wee:


boltdepot.com

Quantity Product Unit Price Subtotal
2 #2648 - Hex nuts, Zinc plated steel, 1/4-20 Box(100) $2.08 $4.16
1 #2649 - Hex nuts, Zinc plated steel, 5/16-18 Box(100) $2.85 $2.85
2 #2689 - Wing nuts, Zinc plated steel, 1/4-20 Each $0.17 $0.34
8 #7300 - K-Lock nuts, Zinc plated steel, 5/16-18 Each $0.12 $0.96
1 #2994 - Washers, USS flat washers, Zinc plated steel, 1/4 Box(100) $2.17 $2.17
8 #2995 - Washers, USS flat washers, Zinc plated steel, 5/16 Each $0.06 $0.48
2 #3024 - Washers, Lock washers, Zinc plated steel, 1/4 Box(100) $1.52 $3.04
32 #3025 - Washers, Lock washers, Zinc plated steel, 5/16 Each $0.06 $1.92


Quantity Product Unit Price Subtotal
1 #834 - Hex bolts, Full thread tap bolts, Steel grade 2, 1/4-20 x 1-1/2 Box(100) $5.70 $5.70
32 #835 - Hex bolts, Full thread tap bolts, Steel grade 2, 1/4-20 x 2 Each $0.13 $4.16
16 #836 - Hex bolts, Full thread tap bolts, Steel grade 2, 1/4-20 x 2-1/2 Each $0.17 $2.72
8 #841 - Hex bolts, Full thread tap bolts, Steel grade 2, 5/16-18 x 1 Each $0.12 $0.96
16 #843 - Hex bolts, Full thread tap bolts, Steel grade 2, 5/16-18 x 1-1/2 Each $0.16 $2.56
4 #844 - Hex bolts, Full thread tap bolts, Steel grade 2, 5/16-18 x 2 Each $0.18 $0.72
4 #845 - Hex bolts, Full thread tap bolts, Steel grade 2, 5/16-18 x 2-1/2 Each $0.24 $0.96

use-enco.com

Model No. Description Qty. Price Tax Ext. Price
409-0045 3/4 WATER HARD.DRILLROD 1 $8.19 N $8.19
408-0220 1/2-10 6'LENGTH ACME THREADED ROD 2 $6.99 N $13.98
407-2200 1/2-10 ACME NUTS 20 $1.19 N $23.80


vbx
http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc

They have a site and an ebay store.. some of their prices are better on ebay though.. http://stores.ebay.com/VXB-Bearings-Skateboard-and-Slotcar

10 R8 ZZ Sealed Bearings 1/2"x 1 1/8" Bearing half inch
100 inline Skate Ball Bearings 608ZZ Bearing 608 ZZ

I got the u-bolts via Amazon and they worked well. The url is http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPRP8Y/105-8220009-2292439

I also got the Hitachi variable speed router from Amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZZWXI/105-8220009-2292439http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZZWXI/105-8220009-2292439

Hello All
I wanted to thank Joe for his work and help.
There was a question very early in the forum about cutting 3D parts. I read the entire log over the last two days and never saw the question answered. I will build this machine or one like it if the machine has 3D capability. I would like a larger machine but when I get this one finished I can build another larger machine.
Thanks for all of the ideas presented here and please don't stop.
J

Whether the machine has 3d capability depends on the software not the machine (as long as it has 3 axis).

I will be using Vectrics Cut3D software on mine for any 3D cutting.

Someone please correct me if I am wrong or missing something.

Whether the machine has 3d capability depends on the software not the machine (as long as it has 3 axis).

I will be using Vectrics Cut3D software on mine for any 3D cutting.

Someone please correct me if I am wrong or missing something.
Well a 3-axis machine is actualy what is knowd as 2d and 2.5d, you would need a 5 axis to 6 axis machine to do true 3d work.


http://www.rainnea.com/cnc.htm

Joe

That is true - thanks for the clarification Joe.

Joe and or David,
I run a 6 axis LINE' at work and I know the difference in the machines. I am thinking of the MACH3 software. Is it capable of the circular interpolatation in the G18 and G19 mode? I don't know what this machine is capable of if using this configuration. I want a machine capable of fairly complex machining using kellering and possibly a rotary table. Is this possible with the HobbyCNC 4 axis package and the MACH3 software?
I know that this is not what the machine was intended for but I want to push the envelope a little.
Thanks again
J

If I remember correctly, Joe you stated originally that you were using control software called Mach3. Do you have a list of the applicable G and M codes that this software recognizes? I could start on a post for this control. I have programming experience with several packages including Catia V5R18, Mastercam and Gibbs cam. I see that David recommend and is using Vectra software. Is this because of the cost of the other more prominent software packages or because Vectra does something the others do not do. I looked at their site and with the brief look it sounds good. I will do some more research on this reasons for this choice would be great.

The machine that got me looking at this site was the Plasmacam. It looked great but it was too costly for me and the software also sounded great. I read a lot of forums since first finding that machine and there was all kinds of bantering. I hope in an independent forum that there are views expressed by users of products not promoters of products.

Thanks for your eyes and ears.

J

Joe and or David,
I run a 6 axis LINE' at work and I know the difference in the machines. I am thinking of the MACH3 software. Is it capable of the circular interpolatation in the G18 and G19 mode? I don't know what this machine is capable of if using this configuration. I want a machine capable of fairly complex machining using kellering and possibly a rotary table. Is this possible with the HobbyCNC 4 axis package and the MACH3 software?
I know that this is not what the machine was intended for but I want to push the envelope a little.
Thanks again
J

If I remember correctly, Joe you stated originally that you were using control software called Mach3. Do you have a list of the applicable G and M codes that this software recognizes? I could start on a post for this control. I have programming experience with several packages including Catia V5R18, Mastercam and Gibbs cam. I see that David recommend and is using Vectra software. Is this because of the cost of the other more prominent software packages or because Vectra does something the others do not do. I looked at their site and with the brief look it sounds good. I will do some more research on this reasons for this choice would be great.

The machine that got me looking at this site was the Plasmacam. It looked great but it was too costly for me and the software also sounded great. I read a lot of forums since first finding that machine and there was all kinds of bantering. I hope in an independent forum that there are views expressed by users of products not promoters of products.

Thanks for your eyes and ears.

J

Hi, and welcome. you will find this site is very useful, and the members here like to help each other. (personally i hate forums that people think they are better than others just because they have a little more experiance in one little area than some and try to express their opinions on them, thats why i like it here, people helping others. NO one person knows everything to do with CNC.)

that aside :), yes mach3 will control up to 6 axis, you can use the HobbyCNC 3 axis kit, by getting two of them and running on parrallel ports one and two you will ecentually have your 6 axis.

http://www.machsupport.com/

I will not go into machines since you seem fairly familiar with what you need already.

Joe

Greetings all.

Many years ago in elementary school I put together a landscape using a knife, lots of cardboard and a contour map. The result was a simple 3D model of the map. Fast forward to now and I am constantly looking for a simple way (without bloody fingers) to transform mine plans into similar models so that accountants and managers can understand without having to teach them how contour maps work. After a few quick searches, I found myself glued to this site at night and scheming to get going on my first CNC machine.

Of course my wife thinks I'm crazy everytime I make some comment about it (trying to soften the beaches before the bills roll in on the build). SHe hasn't complained about the clean garage and the straightened up storage (I could not open the door let alone get to across the room) and the fact that I finally balanced the checkbook and set up a budget.

After reviewing my budget, I am going to have to try and strike it out on my own (Jgro plans from scratch). I would buy a kit but every dollar is precious around here at the moment (diapers rank higher on the budget)

Fortunately I have a few tools at my disposal. A router and small table, 10" arbor table saw, a 10" chop saw, as well as a drill press at work. I am also am a competent AutoCAD user so Joe's plans (rev 2) have been great to get my mind a buzzing. Over the holiday week, everything I looked out I was dreaming of it being cut with a CNC machine.

I already bought 2 sheets of 1/2" MDF (figured I can afford to at least attempt the cuts. I have laid out a cut sheet for all the torsion boxes. IF I successfully get through these, then I should be able to get the remainder done.

My plan is to make coarse cuts in the large sheet, then rip out the individual ribs pieces. and chop saw any non square ends. A dado will be used to cut the slots and the top/bottom recess cuts. A template will be used to cut out the ends and the internal punchouts (might leave these). If I can get this far, then I think I will be ok to proceed to the gantry and beyond.

What do you think? Has anyone else tried/succeeded in building the Rev 2 machine without CNC assist? I figured the $35 dollars spent on the MDF and some time in the (now cleaner) garage is worth the initial attempt.

In closing, thank you for the inspiration and perspiration in bringing and sharing your design Joe.


Brian G.

Brian, I think you have great outlook on the build and the ambition neccesary to get it done. I don't quite understand how you're going to get the ribs out on the table saw but maybe you're going to modify them. If I were in your shoes I would either A. template the ribs, meaning spend the precious time to make one perfect one, then use your router and buy a bit with a bearing to ride that template to make all of your ribs exactly the same. Or B. have joe make you some templates (wouldn't cost you all that much compared to the full kit). The real deal is in the labor in joe's cost, if you eliminate that and put it on your own time, then you could save a lot of hassle and money. It's been done, building joe's machine completely without a cnc. It's not easy, but it is certainly do-able. Maybe Joe's advice would be best though in this situation.

Greetings all.

Fortunately I have a few tools at my disposal. A router and small table, 10" arbor table saw, a 10" chop saw, as well as a drill press at work. I am also am a competent AutoCAD user so Joe's plans (rev 2) have been great to get my mind a buzzing. Over the holiday week, everything I looked out I was dreaming of it being cut with a CNC machine.

I already bought 2 sheets of 1/2" MDF (figured I can afford to at least attempt the cuts. I have laid out a cut sheet for all the torsion boxes. IF I successfully get through these, then I should be able to get the remainder done.

My plan is to make coarse cuts in the large sheet, then rip out the individual ribs pieces. and chop saw any non square ends. A dado will be used to cut the slots and the top/bottom recess cuts. A template will be used to cut out the ends and the internal punchouts (might leave these). If I can get this far, then I think I will be ok to proceed to the gantry and beyond.

Brian G.

You are on the right track.
When I made my CNC a fixed gantry design, I set up the rip fence on my table say once and made all cuts at that setting this makes everything the same width. Then made positive stops for cuttting the lengths all the same and again all at once. Sometimes I made extras just in case i buggered one up in the later cuttings. The same with drilling the holes, good back rests and positive stops. No matter how hard I try it is almost impossible to make a second piece exactly the same after tearing down the first set up.

By making 2 way adjustments on each bearing you can avoid a lot of this but it won't be as solid as it is with tight fitting parts.

Just make a cutting list and do all like operations at once. Worked for me

Good luck.

Hager

Brian,

I can understand budget, thats why i do most everything DIY and besides that its just plan fun.

What you can do is take the drawings, get them printed to scale and use that as a templet, once you have one do like doug did and use a trim router and copy the 1st one. I'm sure if you message him he will help explain best way to do it, that way you save some errors, as i'm sure i would do :)

But the point is use the drawing to scale as a templet for cuts/drill holes, or atleast a check after cutting.

Joe

Joe,
I have seen in your threads that you sell kits and or parts. Please PM me the cost of a complete kit and a price on the HDPE parts. Thanks for your replies on my posts.
J

Wow Joe nice job. I have been reading on the forum on and off for a while thinking of a CNC but not really knowing what I should build and did not want to spend a lot of money on one. Between yours and Lionclaw I think that I might start seriously looking into building one.

Thanks for the great thread and the plans.

Mark

Joe, I just got my HF router speed controller in the mail today, and I want to try my hand at milling some HDPE. I know in the past you've used cutting boards as a source as a source for HDPE. Are you still using them, and do you know of a good cheap place to pick them up?

Wow Joe nice job. I have been reading on the forum on and off for a while thinking of a CNC but not really knowing what I should build and did not want to spend a lot of money on one. Between yours and Lionclaw I think that I might start seriously looking into building one.

Thanks for the great thread and the plans.

Mark

Thanks Mark, with either choice of lionclaws or my machine you will have a good machine to work with, i think the difference in cost will probably run you 300-400 dollar difference maybe a little more, but they are different machines also. So i would say just look at your application and then make a choice of the best machine for you. whether it is mine, lionclaws, JGRO or even david Sosylva machine, until about two years ago people had to do the trial and error and waste materials and ideas on machines trying to get better on this type of machine and now this is where we are at now to be able to help others from peoples mistakes, its all a trial and error (i can not even start to tell you how much i spent in so called research and development.. lol ... OH yea and the TIME!!!! )

so good luck and hope you have fun along the way.

Joe

Joe, I just got my HF router speed controller in the mail today, and I want to try my hand at milling some HDPE. I know in the past you've used cutting boards as a source as a source for HDPE. Are you still using them, and do you know of a good cheap place to pick them up?


I got some from lowes and HD for cheap, but i buy in larger sheets now, the price of HDPE has gone up on the last 6 month due to pertolium prices.

you can also go to a restraunt supply store, they will have cutting boards.

Joe

Heres some info if people want to readup on MDF...

http://www.mdf-info.org/

:drowning: I am drowning in all the excellent information here. Joe, you are to be congratulated on all of your input regarding your machine. The amount of time and energy you have dedicated to your project and shared with this form is awsome. I will be building your machine or a modification of it but not sure just when I will start.

I Just finished checking out the MDF info on the site you listed and I would recomend that anybody using MDF could benifit by reading this information and quite possibly saving themselves some time and money.

I have been following this and other threads for about a month now and this is my first (but not last) post.

dsquire

Heres some info if people want to readup on MDF...

http://www.mdf-info.org/

Interesting and informative read, thanks!

Do you find tool wear to be an issue with all of the cutting you do?
If so, what RPM, feed speed and chip load do you find works the best for maximum bit life?

In your experience have you found a bit or bits that you would consider to be the best bang for the buck?

Thanks!
William

Joe,
Is there a reason why you did not use drill rod for the Y axis rails? I am assuming either weight or cost. Do you see any reason why drill rod could not be used?

Dwayne

This is where I order my HDPE from http://thecuttingboardfactory.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?

Joe,
Is there a reason why you did not use drill rod for the Y axis rails? I am assuming either weight or cost. Do you see any reason why drill rod could not be used?

Dwayne


cost was the reason, and availability to people, i'm sure you can use it, just make sure the O.D. is the same.

joe

also some people have used DOM steel pipe, which is a little smoother and stronger than gas pipes, and has same diminsioning. ie: I.D. & O.D.

DOM pipe? What is that?

http://www.copperweld.com/pdfs/Dofasco_DOMSpecs.pdf

I have bought quite a bit of plastic stuff from US Plastic and they have decent prices on HDPE, they have it from 1/32" to 1". Here is the link.
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=usplastic&category%5Fname=72&product%5Fid=10369

I was foolin around this morning and looking at moving the anti backlash nut on the X Axis. Just wondering if anyone knows why I cannot move it? If it is out of the way then I will run threaded rod through the the gantry side walls and gantry torsion box. Any suggestions?

Dwayne

I have bought quite a bit of plastic stuff from US Plastic and they have decent prices on HDPE, they have it from 1/32" to 1". Here is the link.
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=usplastic&category%5Fname=72&product%5Fid=10369

Prices at Mcmaster-Carr are the same as USP. No big savings there.

I was foolin around this morning and looking at moving the anti backlash nut on the X Axis. Just wondering if anyone knows why I cannot move it? If it is out of the way then I will run threaded rod through the the gantry side walls and gantry torsion box. Any suggestions?

Dwayne

Yes you can move it anywhere on the gantry, it will just shorten your travel by that much but no big deal, i would put it on the front inside.

I was also toying with the idea of two on the gantry inside was thinking this may help any whipping by keeping leadscrew straighter. im my experimenting now, i put two bearing blocks on the end of a 72" 5/8"-6 leadscrew, 6" from each other on both ends and at 160ipm it help reduce the whipping quite a bit.

Joe

Thanks Joe

Dwayne

Can some one tell what program to use to open the Plans?
Thanks

The free way is:

http://www.edrawingsviewer.com/

Free reader from SolidWorks

Down loaded edrawingsvierwer, still can't open the drawings.Must be doing something worng?

If anybody out there would have joes plans in dxf file this would be awsome.
I could drop in bobcad and go to town.

Several pages of posts back, the location of a complete set of drawings for Joe's R2 design are listed. As I recall, many different format files are there including ACAD dwg [not DXF] files. I am fairly certain that BobCAD can open those. eDrawingsviewer CAN as well as multiple other of the file types in Joe's package of files.

If you are new to the eDrawingsviewer, it likes EASM files and many others.

g

If anybody out there would have joes plans in dxf file this would be awsome.
I could drop in bobcad and go to town.

Here's the link to all of the current file formats of Joe's CNC 2006 R-2 drawings, videos, parts list and manual:

http://www.lumenlab.com/~joe2000chevy/CNC_Model_2006_R-1/

Most of them are ZIPPED and need to be UNZIPPED before you can view them.


BTW, Joe, the "Joes CNC Model 2006 R-2.zip" file appears to be corrupt. If/When you get a chance you may want to re-post that file collection.


HTH,

Thanks,

Yes you can move it anywhere on the gantry, it will just shorten your travel by that much but no big deal, i would put it on the front inside.

I was also toying with the idea of two on the gantry inside was thinking this may help any whipping by keeping leadscrew straighter. im my experimenting now, i put two bearing blocks on the end of a 72" 5/8"-6 leadscrew, 6" from each other on both ends and at 160ipm it help reduce the whipping quite a bit.

Joe

Joe do you know of a source of longer leadscrews say 8' long or so ?

Joe do you know of a source of longer leadscrews say 8' long or so ?

Acme lead screws are available up to 12ft in length. WT Tool stocks them http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/product_id/11475

your choices are 3ft, 5ft or 12ft.

Nook stocks acme in 12' lengths. www.nookind.com

If anybody out there would have joes plans in dxf file this would be awsome.
I could drop in bobcad and go to town.

Also if you look bad somebody offered to host the file and you could try that one or Joe even posted a link on a file sharing service that he posted the file on.

I hosted the files for Joe in addition to the file sharing site. The link is below and should be unmodified, as in Joe hasn't made any additions beyond that point but correct me if I'm wrong.

Includes everything, manual, autocad files, edrawing models, etc.

http://www.dkahost.com/joecnc/Joes%20CNC%20Model%202006%20R-2.zip I believe joe has only released the dwg's. I take it you just want the DXF's so you can import them into bobcad?

If anybody out there would have joes plans in dxf file this would be awsome.
I could drop in bobcad and go to town.

http://www.lumenlab.com/~joe2000chevy/CNC_Model_2006_R-1/

heh joe I see you moving the z up and down in a vid in that folder that I haven't seen before, are you just jogging that in mach 3?

Hi all,

Out of joe’s fabulous plans, I see a lot of exchanges & excitement on how some users make & assemble their version. But it appears to me difficult do see what Joe and others are using when it comes to motors & controllers set ups ?
Is it me that’s missing some thread (most likely ) on this or it’s something that is not ( almost not) covered & discus arround here ??
Aside of Xylotex, what else are you all using ??

Thanks, Robert M

Robert, the machine part itself is fairly straight forward and easy to build. It's involved and requires dedication and patience, but it doesn't require a whole lot of experience in CNC at all. I see where you might find the mechanical, motors & driver assembly a little more complicated. I'm about to order mine and my machine is almost built. Most people on Joe's builds are either using hobby cnc's kit or xylotex. IN the kits they mainly consist of nema steppers and 3 axis driver boards. Xylotex offers a complete kit, assembled, no soldering what-so-ever, plug and play of sorts. However, some are using multifunction cards from cnc4pc so they can add limit switches to each axis, e-stop buttons etc. So far I've seen people only use a porter cable or hitachi variable speed router with this build. If you buy a multifunction card to couple the driver board you can control the variable speed router (on and off) and other things as well. There is more to it and even with the electronics it isn't as hard as it sounded. When I first looked at the build it was the best for my needs but overwhelmed me a little until I saw pictures of Joe's kit. I swear, if you buy the kit from him everything else just kind of falls into place. Watch David in the next coming week or two and read his thread as it is a wealth of documentation and information for this matter. He's also willing I'm sure to help in any way with questions regarding the mechanics and what he has bought for it. Hope this helps, but just be specific on what you're after and there are a lot of people here that will reply and help.

-Brian

Hi Brian,
Thank you very much for your time to reply and the recommendations I should take in a forum.

I too am confident, just like many in this thread & forum, about building my own parts for my future machine. Not intimidated at all with this part of the built !
Bu