My neighbor and I are planning on doing a couple of theses. So far I have bought the router from Lowes, bought all of the hardware listed in the PDF.

I am trying to decide if I would ever have any need for the fourth axis on the Hobby CNC kits that were used and saving the money up for that.

I would really like to have a 49 inch cutting area so that I could cut 1/4 sheets easily. I did buy an third 1/2 10 rod for this purpose. Am also thing about 2 start screws.

I am thinking about using DOM tubing instead of the piping as I think it would be both harder and more accurate for the gantry to ride on.

I did notice that the drawings are for a R1 machine butg I think I saw somewhere that you have made a R2 type and also that this has been disassembled and you are working on somethin else. Is this correct?

Scott

My neighbor and I are planning on doing a couple of theses. So far I have bought the router from Lowes, bought all of the hardware listed in the PDF.

I am trying to decide if I would ever have any need for the fourth axis on the Hobby CNC kits that were used and saving the money up for that.

I would really like to have a 49 inch cutting area so that I could cut 1/4 sheets easily. I did buy an third 1/2 10 rod for this purpose. Am also thing about 2 start screws.

I am thinking about using DOM tubing instead of the piping as I think it would be both harder and more accurate for the gantry to ride on.

I did notice that the drawings are for a R1 machine butg I think I saw somewhere that you have made a R2 type and also that this has been disassembled and you are working on somethin else. Is this correct?

Scott

That was the disassemble of my 2nd machine I am cuting on this machine now.

I am also in the planning stages of the best way to do a 4'x8' machine.

joe

Joe what cutter depth do you cut the MDF at? I remember you were cutting up to 80" I assume you’re using a1/4" cutter.

1/4" 2 flute upspiral at 0.15" to 0.2" passes.

Joe

I tell ya the only thing that's stopping me from building your machine Joe is that my current machine (a jgro) can't cut the bigger parts. I can get the width but not the length. I was half toying around with the idea of trying to extend my current machines cutting area just to cut the new parts. Kind of sacrifice the current machine for the second.

I tell ya the only thing that's stopping me from building your machine Joe is that my current machine (a jgro) can't cut the bigger parts. I can get the width but not the length. I was half toying around with the idea of trying to extend my current machines cutting area just to cut the new parts. Kind of sacrifice the current machine for the second.

What is the cutting area of your machine? I can make the larger ones if you like.

Joe

Here is a Complete Kit cut out showing all the parts, Only when you see it all together you can see the magnitude of the parts involved. It is quite abit of work to cut out all the parts and keep tract to make sure everything is counted for.

See if you can count or guess the total number of parts shown.

Joe

So have you decided on a price for your new kit?

See if you can count or guess the total number of parts shown.

Joe

76? Do I win a free kit?

I see 80 but then again its late and I do have a headache.

See if you can count or guess the total number of parts shown. Joe


I count 82, but some you can't count because of overlapping parts, so this is an estimate .. if i am closest, do i get a free parts kit?? HAHAHAHA

Eddie

close, sorry no free kit... lol

I count 84

Time to count...NOT. How much for the router mount? Hitachi, right?

I count 84

That is correct... Alot of parts and machine time... lol

Time to count...NOT. How much for the router mount? Hitachi, right?

Yes that one is for the Hitachi, I also made one just like it for the porter cable 7518 for someone. I sell the upper and lower (HDPE) for 30...

Joe

what are you selling the whole kit for?

what are you selling the whole kit for?

I have a price in mind, some people say its to high then others say its to low (the ones who have built machines themself's) if you like a price quote of the parts you like just message me.

Joe

Well I'm embarresed to say I made a mistake in my New Model 2006, I had put the bottom torsion box on 180° in the wrong direction if you look at the original pictures of the assembly and the original e-drawing you will noticed the Working bed in not centered with the gantry, you can kinda line it up with the ribs, in doing this it made me manufacture the CNC End Pieces Incorectly when measureing them in solid works, I have corrected it and will post the new E-Drawing reflecting it, I hope this does not cause anyone any problems (I guess everyone makes a mistake now and then. I am currently cutting my new end pieces and finishing the machine.

When I redesigned the machine to be a lighter version it was like starting all over again, but this will work out great.

Antone who wants the New DWG files I imported into Solid works just let me know by e-mail and i will send it to you.

joecnc2006 (at) yahoo.com

thanks, Joe

Joe,

Are the DWG files available for download or can you email them to me? I have the e-drawings but seem to have a problem getting all the dimensions I need.
higgins@allencc.edu

Thanks and keep up the good work.
Mike

Please send me the updated files.
Thanks
Scott

Please send me the updated files.
Thanks
Scott

Sent

joe, congrats on such a philanthropic effort to get all the lurkers to post! they seem quite excited.

well guys..

i think everyone who wants one of these should look into pooling their resources and getting the whole thing cut somewhere economical on some giant gantry router that will take an hour to cut each kit, not 20..it seems like this simple 2, or 2.5D routing could be 'jobbed out' cheaply if 30ish kits are desired?

Of course, i Dont know.

joe, congrats on such a philanthropic effort to get all the lurkers to post! they seem quite excited.

well guys..

i think everyone who wants one of these should look into pooling their resources and getting the whole thing cut somewhere economical on some giant gantry router that will take an hour to cut each kit, not 20..it seems like this simple 2, or 2.5D routing could be 'jobbed out' cheaply if 30ish kits are desired?

Of course, i Dont know.

Thats an idea, but i'm not sure about the HDPE, I would have to make the Nested g-codes but would not be to hard. I just like making sure everything fits right. and with large cutting or farmed out I would have the check everything.

Joe

Could you please send me the updated DWG files. Thank you, wally.
wehelm@msn.com

I have sent the DWG files to everyone who has asked (about 75 or so), However i have not gotten any feedback from anyone, other than a couple of people, is people building it, thinking about it or thinks it is just not worth it? Just getting anxious to have feedback.

Joe

For me, your E-drawings you posted were a huge help in some of my design problems. I think there should be a condition, if you receive the dwg's you must post feedback :) -but that might make a mess, probably best to start a new thead for that one...

_Jon

I am seriously thinking about building your machine . I have your e-drawings and they're great. I've spent hours pouring over them. I did ask for the DWG files as I'd like to make your machine slightly smaller. I have been collecting hardware parts and I have a fairly large amount of baltic ply left over from another project that I would like to use. Could I substitute 3/8 ply for the 1/2 MDF?
Wally

3/8 ply will almost certainly be alot weaker than 1/2mdf. somewhere in the forums some intrepid diyer actually hooked weights and scales upto ply and mdf to see what the properties of each seemed to be in relation to the other..

i think the fairly solid evidence pointed towards MDF being a 'better' building material. Denser, tighter production tolerances, less flex, etc.

But then, 'Free' is a huge positive for any materials properties...

Thank you for the quick reply on my 3/8 ply, it's baltic birch and somehow I thought it might be equal to the MDF because of the number of plys. As you said , it's "free" (at least now it is) so maybe I'll try it.
Wally

Joe - pls send me the updated dwgs




wallyh

Just a crazy idea, but you could always laminate it with thinner MDF or even aluminum. :rolleyes:

A lot of commercial machines let the weight of the Z axis just sit on the servo. This means the servo is always drawing power but if it is sized correctly and has a cooling fan that is no problem. Also attached to the servo is a magnetic brake that is released when the servo power supply is energized so that when the servo power is cut by pressing E stop or something the brake locks down and holds the axis. For a very heavy Z axis it is necessary to have a fancy little circuit to guard against power outages. This senses that the incoming supply has gone down and cuts the brake power several tens of milliseconds ahead of the servo power going down as the DC buss capacitors discharge.

This is from another thread. What do you think of attaching a set of springs (indicated by the thick red line in the jpeg) to take up the weight of the motor and make less work for the z-axis stepper?

Steven

Even better afterthought.

1) Attach a small riser .5X.125 Al stock to the z-axis housing to allow for a longer spring. Adjust the spring using a thni (possibly .125) nylon shock cord so that the motor mount and motor are essentially weightless at the bottom of the z travel. This should relieve some tension on the z motor.

Suspend an angle iron track from the ceiling directly over the midline of the machine running down the y axis. Using a v-bearing attach a couple of springs to the gantry. Now it is essentially weightless too and should relieve a lot of stress on the y-axis motor. Keep in mind this does not mean the gantry has no inertia. The motor still does a lot of work during the changing direction part.

Steven

I have sent the DWG files to everyone who has asked (about 75 or so), However i have not gotten any feedback from anyone, other than a couple of people, is people building it, thinking about it or thinks it is just not worth it? Just getting anxious to have feedback.

Joe


Joe, I'm definitely going to build this with my brother but we are saving up the cash right now. We're trying to decide whether or not to buy the kit. I want to buy it, but my brother wants to save the cash and have us cut it out. Hopefully we'll be starting on it in the next month. Thanks a lot for the plans Joe.

3/8 ply will almost certainly be alot weaker than 1/2mdf. somewhere in the forums some intrepid diyer actually hooked weights and scales upto ply and mdf to see what the properties of each seemed to be in relation to the other..

i think the fairly solid evidence pointed towards MDF being a 'better' building material. Denser, tighter production tolerances, less flex, etc.

But then, 'Free' is a huge positive for any materials properties...


Plywood is actually significantly stronger and stiffer than mdf. Most plywood has a Modulus of Elasticity (measure of stiffness) of over 1,000,000 PSI, whereas MDF is around 350,000 PSI. However, it is difficult to beat MDF as far as tolerances go.

Also...thanks for the great plans Joe! You put a lot of work into them and it shows. I have taken much design inspiration from you in my current project!

Matt

sdantonio
I have 200oz motors on the Z-Axis and they have no problem at all lifting the Z Axis with router, so on this model I do not think it is neccessary to have counter weight.

hines
You can cut some of the parts yourself, but the machine does need them to be as accurate as possible either by hand or machine. If you only need a few parts machined then i can help with what ever you need.

nMotion
Thanks for the compliments, I know when I first started i was not happy with the quality of my diy machine so I built this one to improve and have the best one i could do for a wood machine. and hopefully help other start with a decent machine.

Joe - please send me the updated dwgs

Great Looking Machine!

Gary

Joe how big are the files? I can host them for you and just have everyone download them so you dont have to keep sending them. PM me if you want to do this and I'll tell you where to send them.

Joe
Thanks for the DWG files and your CNC build logs. They are a great. I can't say when I will start building, even though I'm retired it seems everytime I think I can get started something, time or money, comes up. Oh well one of thes days.

I just completed my first machine but I can see that I will want to make a second one soon using the first one. If you don't mind I would like a set of dwg's to use.

Thanks
Terry

Joe,

DHL delivered my CNC Model 2006 at 1:45pm. Joe, the quality of your work as exceeds my expectations! Great job! I'm off to Lowes for sealer, I have Tight Bond III. I'll be starting my build log next week.

Steve

Joe,

I am aware that you have heard this before, would you mind emailing me the updated drawings of your machine? I have the original drawings you sent me awhile back and I was just about to cut the MDF. :rolleyes:

Email address is: creative_mind@verizion.net

Thank you in advance.

Joe , Can i get them too ????(drawing) :)

Thanks

Bruno

Here is the cover page of the assembly manual and hardware listing I'm making right now, Hopefully i will be finished with it tommarrow for people who are building this machine.

Joe

Hi Joe,
I've been on the road for a month and have not been able to keep up with your progress. It appears that you have a kit available now? Please send me the price list or quote for the kit. I would appreciate the updated dwg files ,too. I found some 1" dia. 1/4" wall, steel pipe at a local fabtication shop for cheap. I got the pipe cleaned up and it looks just as good as the drill rod that I got from Enco. The nice part is it comes in lengths longer than 36" and is lighter. I am wondering if the rigidity will be comperable? It is much stiffer than 1" galvanized gas pipe.
Theres no place like home!
Thanks,
BR (cornfed)

Hey Joe,

Could I get a copy of the files? Also you want me to host them for you? so you can just post a link instead?

shay (at) arnettmultimedia.com

Thanks!!

I finished the Parts List and Simple Assembly manual for the machine, I have sent it out to a few people building the machine now.

Joe

Could I get a copy of the Parts List and Simply Assembly manual for the machine too. Please!
Scott

Joe, I've really enjoyed watching your project(s). I've reached the pocket lint stage of mine, have started building and use this thread as a very valuable reference.

Question, Joe, All... Is there a particular reason for not treating the bearing setup on the X as you have for the Y.

Curtis

Joe, I've really enjoyed watching your project(s). I've reached the pocket lint stage of mine, have started building and use this thread as a very valuable reference.

Question, Joe, All... Is there a particular reason for not treating the bearing setup on the X as you have for the Y.

Curtis

Can you be a little more specific? not sure what you mean by treating the same.

Joe

Yes, The bearings on your Y axis are opposite eachother, in effect squeezing the rails toward eachother into the box. Actually so does your X axis for that matter.

My plan is to use two 1" pipes on each side as yourself, but orienting the bearings so one is above the top pipe, one below the bottom pipe, the "squeeze" being from one pipe toward the other. I realize I would need some type of spreader arrangement. Picture a setup similar to your Y on each side of my table for my X. Make sense?

Joe,
I have read and re-read this thread with great interest. I would love to have the latest version of your dwg files.
Please send me a quote for your kit: (dvrieman(at)cfl.rr.com). Are you making individual parts available, or just complete kits?
Thank you, Dana

Yes, The bearings on your Y axis are opposite eachother, in effect squeezing the rails toward eachother into the box. Actually so does your X axis for that matter.

My plan is to use two 1" pipes on each side as yourself, but orienting the bearings so one is above the top pipe, one below the bottom pipe, the "squeeze" being from one pipe toward the other. I realize I would need some type of spreader arrangement. Picture a setup similar to your Y on each side of my table for my X. Make sense?

Ok maybe its a monday or something but i can not really picture it, can you do a sketch?

Joe

Thanks for the files.

This design is sooooo awesome!!!! I can't wait to get my machine done to start foolin around with this design.

Got a little carried away while seeing which programs I had that could open your stuff, so I ended up with a 3d render of your machine. I didn't get all of the textures right (plastic stuff) but who knows maybe you can use it on something.

Thanks for the files.

This design is sooooo awesome!!!! I can't wait to get my machine done to start foolin around with this design.

Got a little carried away while seeing which programs I had that could open your stuff, so I ended up with a 3d render of your machine. I didn't get all of the textures right (plastic stuff) but who knows maybe you can use it on something.

Nice looking rendering. :)

Yes, The bearings on your Y axis are opposite eachother, in effect squeezing the rails toward eachother into the box. Actually so does your X axis for that matter.

My plan is to use two 1" pipes on each side as yourself, but orienting the bearings so one is above the top pipe, one below the bottom pipe, the "squeeze" being from one pipe toward the other. I realize I would need some type of spreader arrangement. Picture a setup similar to your Y on each side of my table for my X. Make sense?


Ok after getting home tonight, i realise what you are saying. Making an x-axis by simply having two similar to the y-axis one on each side. this is ok, but you would start to get more of a flex i would think, making it a longer spand. and you would still need to have a cutting bed, Also it might allow it to twist similar to the original single pipe designs, (which is why i designed a dual rail system) But it is good thinking and just might work.

Joe

Joe,

I have recently purchased a router capable of machining 8Ft x 4Ft, being "down Under" (here is Asutralia) I would be willing to machine parts for people here if you would like - you set the terms and playing field, that you think are fair. and I will do the best I can to return some good will to this folder, as I have learnt so much here

salty :cheers:

Joe

Thank you for the awsome manual. I appreciate the great effort you have gone to. Hope to be able to start on my build soon. I will let you know how it goes.

Ok after getting home tonight, i realise what you are saying. Making an x-axis by simply having two similar to the y-axis one on each side. this is ok, but you would start to get more of a flex i would think, making it a longer spand. and you would still need to have a cutting bed, Also it might allow it to twist similar to the original single pipe designs, (which is why i designed a dual rail system) But it is good thinking and just might work.

Joe


Actually, The more I think about it the less I like my approach, your use of the table/box for support and alignment of those rails is much simpler. I think I was trying to get away from any possible "bow" of the gantry sides over time.

May I have a copy of the Simple Assembly Manual and Parts List too? I am planning to build the machine soon.

wally

Ok, i have been bombarded with requests, so here are the files, dwg's, e-drawings, part list and assembly manual, I will have them Up for one week so if you like to have them here is your chance.

http://www.lumenlab.com/~joe2000chevy/CNC_Model_2006_R-1/

Let me know what ya'll think so far.

Joe

Thanks JOE :cheers:

flip'in awesom joe! I vote for a sub-forum for you machine...

I'll second that proposal. Three cheers for Joe.


Jason

Thanks Joe

flip'in awesom joe! I vote for a sub-forum for you machine...
Thanks, and thanks everyone..

I would be open to sugestions on that you mean by sub-forum?

Joe

Thank You for your hard work and consideration to others. This is what the CNC Zone is all about.

Downloaded your drawings and they are very helpful indeed. I have printed them out now and going through them. Thanks alot again.

Joe could you list the motors you are using and the electrics you are using to drive them .

Secondly, did the machine operated as you expected ,perhaps better in some aspects or perhaps lacking a little in others were the operating speeds satisfactory.

A comment if I may it is amazing to me at least how these DUI machines built by educated amateurs [and using basically off the shelf materials] have developed and are rivaling the major manufacturers regarding the tolerances they are capable of holding

A comment if I may it is amazing to me at least how these DUI machines built by educated amateurs [and using basically off the shelf materials] have developed and are rivaling the major manufacturers regarding the tolerances they are capable of holding

I don't recommend running these machines drunk, even if they can "walk the line" :)

Joe could you list the motors you are using and the electrics you are using to drive them .

Secondly, did the machine operated as you expected ,perhaps better in some aspects or perhaps lacking a little in others were the operating speeds satisfactory.

A comment if I may it is amazing to me at least how these DUI machines built by educated amateurs [and using basically off the shelf materials] have developed and are rivaling the major manufacturers regarding the tolerances they are capable of holding

As mentioned earlier, I use the Hobbycnc 3-axis 200oz kit, cutting at 80ipm and very happy with machine.

Joe

I just wanted to say thank you for providing all this to the community. Way to go. :)

One question: I can't find anywhere...how much HDPE do we need, and how thick is it? On another note, a local lumberyard (menard's) started carrying recycled HDPE sheets for $60/4x8 sheet. It seems a little softer than other HDPE I have, but its relatively cheap.

regards,
John

John,

Most of the HDPE parts are 0.75 inch thick with the exception of the motor spacers (standoffs) which are 0.5 inch thick (you can use the edrawings and measure things like thicknesses from there that you can't see in the dwg's).

Virgin HDPE would probably be better I would think. I looked quickly and added things up and you might be able to squeese everything out of a 12 X 48 inch piece (and an old cutting board for the standoffs).

If I remember right the piece of virgin material I was looking at of this size at mcmaster-carr was about $45

Steven

John,

Most of the HDPE parts are 0.75 inch thick with the exception of the motor spacers (standoffs) which are 0.5 inch thick (you can use the edrawings and measure things like thicknesses from there that you can't see in the dwg's).

Virgin HDPE would probably be better I would think. I looked quickly and added things up and you might be able to squeese everything out of a 12 X 48 inch piece (and an old cutting board for the standoffs).

If I remember right the piece of virgin material I was looking at of this size at mcmaster-carr was about $45

Steven

the only other pieces that are 0.50" are the two vertical pieces under the Z-axis anti-backlash nut, you can see them in the picture i have for the rear of the Z-axis showing bearing slides.

joe

Im a expericanced custom cabinet / wood worker .... but a cnc newbie ... been readin this thread ... very...impressed joe with your cnc toy...

maybe someone can now design....a cnc router lath? with your cnc router
now that would be way cooooooool.

your quoted As mentioned earlier, I use the Hobbycnc 3-axis 200oz kit, cutting at 80ipm and very happy with machine.

Joe t

what are the spec or model for your steppers, i may have missed that info, also what do u use to run the cnc, what application? do u run it striaght from soildworks or auto cad? ist free wear


does any have an projects the make with the router ie furniture
or doors or 3d engravings. just would like to see what kind of milling ie carving one can do with this ?

Im a expericanced custom cabinet / wood worker .... but a cnc newbie ... been readin this thread ... very...impressed joe with your cnc toy...

maybe someone can now design....a cnc router lath? with your cnc router
now that would be way cooooooool.

your quoted t

what are the spec or model for your steppers, i may have missed that info, also what do u use to run the cnc, what application? do u run it striaght from soildworks or auto cad? ist free wear


does any have an projects the make with the router ie furniture
or doors or 3d engravings. just would like to see what kind of milling ie carving one can do with this ?

Here is the hardware i use...

http://www.hobbycnc.com/4aupcpkg.php

Mach3 controlling software / with new cam software called lazycam.

http://www.machsupport.com/artsoft/index/index.htm

and good v-carving software for cabinets, misc. carvings, and also have a photo carve...

http://www.vectric.com/index.htm

These you will find to be about the cheapest to go, with the highest quality that matches, thousand dollar programs.

joe

what type of steper is this unipolar?

Hi Joe,

When you get a chance to think about it, do you use the same diameter cutter when doing all the HDPE parts, or do you change cutters depending on the diameter of the actual cut. The .02 dia holes can all be handles with a 3/16 bit (as can all the larger cuts).

Thanks
Steven

Hi Joe,

When you get a chance to think about it, do you use the same diameter cutter when doing all the HDPE parts, or do you change cutters depending on the diameter of the actual cut. The .02 dia holes can all be handles with a 3/16 bit (as can all the larger cuts).

Thanks
Steven

the 3/4" HDPE is cut with a 1/4" same as all the MDF, and the 1/2" thick is with a 1/8" bit.

A trick i use is if a part needs a smalled dia. hole when using the 1/4" bit is to make a small indention 0.05" with the 1/4" bit then after the part is cut out use drill press and drill the holes in the center of the indention as needed. An example is the anti-backlash nuts for the Y and X Axis (6 of them in the larger base peace) just make an indention then drill and tap with the 1/4-20.

has any made there own 3 or 4 axis stepper controller
would liketo build one, does anyoone have a link?, to any good plans or advice
on what plans are most current, with chips that are availiable?
i seen one with the l297 l298l chips

which is the most popular way?
i seen the 5804 but dont think there available any more?

joe,

ive been lurking here and elsewhere for over a year, just trying to put the whole DYI CNC router thing in my head straight. i come back last night after months of being absent, and WOW!!! you have done it!!! your whole design makes me want to take action and forget sleep.

the only thing that is keeping my hand off the credit card is that i need your 49x97" design you are working on, as most of the plywood i cut is 35-42".

do you think that the 200oz motors from hobbycnc will be powerful enough? or will i have to look elsewhere?

im sure you have lots to do, but any general timetable on the 49x97 design?

i just want to thank you again for all of your hard work and help.

vid

has any made there own 3 or 4 axis stepper controller
would liketo build one, does anyoone have a link?, to any good plans or advice
on what plans are most current, with chips that are availiable?
i seen one with the l297 l298l chips

which is the most popular way?
i seen the 5804 but dont think there available any more?

Look in the electronic section of the forumn there are several posts with links there for the DIY controllors.

joe,

ive been lurking here and elsewhere for over a year, just trying to put the whole DYI CNC router thing in my head straight. i come back last night after months of being absent, and WOW!!! you have done it!!! your whole design makes me want to take action and forget sleep.

the only thing that is keeping my hand off the credit card is that i need your 49x97" design you are working on, as most of the plywood i cut is 35-42".

do you think that the 200oz motors from hobbycnc will be powerful enough? or will i have to look elsewhere?

im sure you have lots to do, but any general timetable on the 49x97 design?

i just want to thank you again for all of your hard work and help.

vid
Right now, it is more sketches, and ideas in my head, I plan on full design and assembly by the end of this summer, I still need to do some calculations and research to determain which ideas will be more denificial.

the 200oz in my opinion is max'd with my current machine (don't get me wrong they work great with it), any larger we need to look at higher voltage and amp motors.

Joe

To any of you readers of this post having the slightest
thoughts of making a CNC router, please consider looking at
joe2000chevy's plans and documents (joe@lumenlab.com). I built
his prototype machine starting in November and then was
intrigued by his 2nd generation machine. I am about 2/3rds
finished with this 2nd machine. BTW the prototype can be built
easily with simple woodworking tools but the new machine almost needs a
CNC router like the aforementioned prototype. The alternative is that
joe2000chevy plans to sell complete kits or any parts
deemed too difficult to make.

I know that there are other plans to choose from.
Personally I am extremely pleased with the results I have acheived with
these.

Attached find photos of the prototype and the present state
of the new machine.(Completed Gantry)

your machine is looking really good, I have to say you are doing an excilent job and the grey color is a good contrast, and makes it look more industial.

Joe

Oldtimer,

Nice looking machine.

For those who may be interested, I ran across a link yesterday (and them promptly lost it after ordering a free sample) of some guy who developed a powder coat technology for MDF. If I read it correctly it ends up looking just like powder coated metal parts. Might be a nice looking finish.

wow. a 49x97" version would be neat, and monstrous!

it might make me want to have a MDF cnc router... just o cut plywood and other planar fiberous materials...

keep up the good work! nifty.

http://www.profilepowder.com/rfp.htm

THIS SITE?

Randy,

That would be them

thanks

Ok, i have been bombarded with requests, so here are the files, dwg's, e-drawings, part list and assembly manual, I will have them Up for one week so if you like to have them here is your chance.

http://www.lumenlab.com/~joe2000chevy/CNC_Model_2006_R-1/

Let me know what ya'll think so far.

Joe

Hey Joe,

Missed out on getting the plans and all, my internet connection has been down but I have been watching what you have been doing and can say that it's not only fantastic but now badly want to create one of my own here in Australia. If it's not too much hassle I would love for you to send the plans or re-post them onto this site. If you need some web space to host these permanently I can help you out here free of charge:)

Martin.

martink
where abouts are you in Oz, I'm in New south wales!


If it is ok with joe I can send you the files

martink
where abouts are you in Oz, I'm in New south wales!


If it is ok with joe I can send you the files

Hi Salty,

Another member has very kindly sent me the files, this thing looks fantastic! Now I have just gotta work out where to get the parts like lovejoy couplers etc in Australia and save the shipping costs!

Martin.

The couplers are easy enough. Jaycar sells the 1/4 inch version and you can get the individual parts (i.e. 1/4 -> 1/2) from small parts and bearings in brisbane

http://www.smallparts.com.au/cgi-bin/store/product.pl

Some substitutes will be in order. While Acetyl (delprin) rod is fairly inexpensive, a sheet of the stuff costs a fortune over here and the new design calls for a lot of it. We would need to identify an alternative.

Jason.

Hi Guys,

MartinK,

Please beaware that the idea of this design by Joe, is that it should be cut via another mill as the tollerances for the torsion boxes are quite tight.
Also the learing curve for making the first mill (mine is the JGRO design) is something you dont wanna miss. I will be making this design next, as i would like the 1200x 600 cutting bed.

Also don't forget that you will need to re-size the drawings for using 12mm mdf insted of 1/2inch (which is 12.7mm i believe) the slots for the torsion boxes will be very sloppy otherwise. I think some of the bigger board stores may be able to get 1/2 mdf, At a cost.

Argo,

If you have not allready, could you please put those parts suppliers in the aussie section. Currently I am using Fuel hose and clamps for the connection. I want to get some of these in the future. (once i get it working, then i will slowly buy the nice bits.)

Some substitutes will be in order. While Acetyl (delprin) rod is fairly inexpensive, a sheet of the stuff costs a fortune over here and the new design calls for a lot of it. We would need to identify an alternative.

Could you use Perspex? not sure of the cost of a sheet of that stuff. Also i might be a bit brital. Just a thought.

Chris

martink
where abouts are you in Oz, I'm in New south wales!


If it is ok with joe I can send you the files

go ahead this time.....

Joe

go ahead this time.....

Joe


Thanks Joe! :cheers:

Originally Posted by Salty72
martink
where abouts are you in Oz, I'm in New south wales!


If it is ok with joe I can send you the files



go ahead this time.....

Joe

Please send me it to my also. :)

ok joe, im sold on your cnc router i would like to buy 1 kit, would you please send me a price to my e-mail at landdog84@yahoo.com
keep up the good work

ok joe, im sold on your cnc router i would like to buy 1 kit, would you please send me a price to my e-mail at landdog84@yahoo.com
keep up the good work

email sent.

Joe

Are all the piece you cut smaller than the cutting area of your latest router? If not how are you cutting longer pieces?

Are all the piece you cut smaller than the cutting area of your latest router? If not how are you cutting longer pieces?

Yes i designed it so i could cut the pieces out with the machine. I have already cut kits and it is working great. I have many hours on it already.

Joe

DOH!

I have been trying to figure out how to cut 66" pices for my gantry over the last day.... After reading your last post , a light came on *click* and a voice said 'Hey dumba$$ just make the gantry in 2 pieces 33" and bolt it together in the middle"

DOH!

I have been trying to figure out how to cut 66" pices for my gantry over the last day.... After reading your last post , a light came on *click* and a voice said 'Hey dumba$$ just make the gantry in 2 pieces 33" and bolt it together in the middle"

I made stagering butt joints, Take a close look at the bottom torsion box e-drawing i have.

Joe I read in another thread that you use 1/4" and 1/8" endmills , I can't seem to find that thread again to see what brand you use and where to get them (if it even mentioned that) I'm almost to the point of needing some bits so I need to start researching and placing some orders soon.

Joe I read in another thread that you use 1/4" and 1/8" endmills , I can't seem to find that thread again to see what brand you use and where to get them (if it even mentioned that) I'm almost to the point of needing some bits so I need to start researching and placing some orders soon.

I have been using the CMT brand they have lasted longer than other brands i have tried. I have a woodcraft store here locally.

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=8217

joe

I got all of the ACME Thread Clamps From Dumpster, and installed them this weekend, so far they work very well.

On the Z Axis i put the leadscrew bearing facing inward and used two acme nuts to extend where the Clamp is placed top and bottom so i could tighten them, and on the X And Y axis they are just installed against the leadscrew bearings.

http://www.gonebowlin.com/dumpsterCNC/

Joe

Hey Joe, what kind of accuracy are you getting with your machine typically? Say you cut a 1"x1" square, what kind of results will you get if you measure with a vernier?
Thanks.
Sanghera

Hey Joe, what kind of accuracy are you getting with your machine typically? Say you cut a 1"x1" square, what kind of results will you get if you measure with a vernier?
Thanks.
Sanghera
As far as i Know it is less than 0.01" i do not have any calipers to measure it, but you have to understand this is a DIY machine and for what it is intended for it works perfect. All the parts i cut come out exactly how i design it, and cutting the kit with it they all line up with no problem and all bolt holes are perfect. So to awnser your question accuracy, is as good as you can get out of a wood built machine.

Joe

Send me a kit and full dimensions and I'll measure for accuracy *wink wink*

How are the captive steel nuts working for you? How often do you have to adjust for wear?

Send me a kit and full dimensions and I'll measure for accuracy *wink wink*

How are the captive steel nuts working for you? How often do you have to adjust for wear?

I have not had to adjust them yet.

One thing I still have problems with, and it seem to be a common throught all the threads, in all forums.

Is that there is a miss understanding between precision and accuracy...

“I have been using the CMT brand they have lasted longer than other brands i have tried. I have a woodcraft store here locally.“

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=8217
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

FYI RouterBitWorld sells CMT for less than WoodCraft.
http://routerbitworld.com/

For example the 191.007.11 upcut 1/4” dia 3/4” len bit is $20.80 at WoodCraft and $14.57 at RBW (shipping included)

RBW also sells Amana and Freud with always $1 shipping.

Joe, I notice you refer to your bits as endmills. Are they really endmills or router bits?

Steve

Salty,

It's a common mistake. Precision is how closely the datapoints are grouped together. Accuracy is how close the mean of those points are to the real number. I used to teach it as a target.

1. A tight grouping off to one side is precise because the shots are all grouped tightly together, but it is not accurate.

2. a pattern like a plus sign with the bullseye in the middle is accurate because the average of all the points is right in the middle, but not precise because the grouping is poor.

3 getting all the shots in the bullseye is both precise (tight grouping) and accurate (all equally distributed around the bullseye).

how this relates to the kit is simple. If a piece is suppesed to be exactly 24 inches wide, and their all 1 inch short. they have good precision, but were not made accurately.

If one piece is 23 inches and the other is 25 inches they have good accuracy, but the precision is poor.

And is all the pieces are exactly 24 inches then both the precision and accuray are good.

What Shay really wants to measure is both accuracy and precision. Precision will tell him how good the repeatability of the machine is, accuracy will tell you how close to the actual dimension o the print the part is. And if anyone should get a free kit to measure it should go to the guys who know the definitions of the words they throw around in here. :) right salty

ps. Joe, I just finished the tortion table complete with the 4 - 1" rails on the first machine (the small one). That sucker gets heavy quick...don't it. I lucked out with the black pipe too. Went to Lowes and picked up some and it turned to be steel piperather than cast iron. Perfectly smooth and the finish looks more like it is anodised rather than painted on. Picked up 4 12footers marked at about $14 each. Got to the register and they rang up as 4 footers at 2.99 each. So those pipes, and the 8 ubolts for the two machines came to a total of $19. And I didn't even notice the mistake till I was safely home. As I build do you want me to post here or start a new thread (this one is getting lind of long).

Well my machine is both i guess, every piece is identical when cut, i lay them ontop of eachother and they are perfect lined up, and as far as measurement, yes they are pretty much spot.

sdantonio good find on the parts and starting a new thread would be best.

I am working on a dust collection addon to the Z-Axis. did not get alot done this weekend, had to work.

Joe

Joe, definitely post dust collection pics please

yer I would be interested also (even though my machine is not quite cutting ....Just yet ) You gotta laugh

Well I got the Dust Skit designed and cut, it was just a mater of making it fit the machine and wanted something that matches and pleasing to the eye for the machine so what i did was take the router mount and edited the dwg file to accomidate the 2.25 hose and also made it match the diminsion of the Z Axis so nothing sticks out except the hose to the side. then offset the outside .25 and made a chanel .125 deep and .125 wide for the dust skirt i got from a reference here on the zone, with a min. buy of 5' it was still pretty cheap.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19317&highlight=dust+skirt

So here is what i came up with and what it should look like installed.

Joe

Anyone knows if that dust skirt is available in Canada ??? shipping from the USA is more expensive than the 5 feet of skirt itself !!!!!

Anyone knows if that dust skirt is available in Canada ??? shipping from the USA is more expensive than the 5 feet of skirt itself !!!!!

If you make the supporting piece of HDPE rectangular instead of a complex shape like joes you can get away with using a brush type door sweep that you can pick up in pretty much any hardward shop.

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/jsearch/product.jsp?pn=808195

I'm actually going to need something with longer brissles for my machine.

Steven

Here is another product, looks like they use sliced vinyl.

http://www.shopbottools.com/files/SBD134_040714Dust%20Skirt,%20PRTalpha.pdf

Steven

[QUOTE=sdantonio
What Shay really wants to measure is both accuracy and precision. Precision will tell him how good the repeatability of the machine is, accuracy will tell you how close to the actual dimension o the print the part is. And if anyone should get a free kit to measure it should go to the guys who know the definitions of the words they throw around in here. :) right salty
[/QUOTE]


Hrmm... and I was just trying to get a free kit LOL

[QUOTE=sdantonio
Hrmm... and I was just trying to get a free kit LOL

Can't hurt to try :)

Getting back to the dust skirts it just occured to me the ideal thing would be vinyl dust skirts with snaps on them (or some other kind of hook) That way you could have several skirts of different lengths and change them out as required by the part. And with clear vinyl you could see what is happening and watch your router at work.

Anyone knows if that dust skirt is available in Canada ??? shipping from the USA is more expensive than the 5 feet of skirt itself !!!!!

Don't trust their shipping calculator. Call them and order some - I paid $15 USD for shipping instead of the $43 their website was quoting. I asked for 10' but they only shipped (and charged) me for 5' so I did end up paying more for shipping than I did for the brush, but it's still reasonable IMO.

manufactured the dust skirt brackets, to blend with the machine and use all the existing bolts in the router mount, here is a picture of the two brackets and now installed, the last thing i want to manufacture are hold down clamps which will clamp or slide on the side holes in the bottom torsion box of the cutting bed, if you look at the overall design you will see the holes in the side (7 total each side) this was done on purpose for this reason. i should have them done soon.

Joe

Looks good Joe.

sdantonio,

To see what is going on with the bit you can also use transparent acrylic instead of the white plastic Joe used for the skirt body.



Jason

Out of curiousity (and people have asked me) How Many people are looking at building the CNC Model 2006.
Count me in! I've finished my JGRO build and started thinking about modifications and tweaks to strengthen it. Then I figured why bother. I'll just use my JGRO to cut Joe's CNC model 2006 R-2 design. Once I get the parts cut I can dismantle the JGRO build and reuse some of the components on Joe's dual rail design.

I've got some leftover 1/2" & 3/4" MDF, 1/2" UHMW, aluminum angle, 3/4" drill rod, 1/2" & 7mm bearings, 1/2"-10 x 6' ACME threaded rod, 1/2"-10 ACME nuts, AB nuts from dumpster and a bunch of assorted nuts, bolts, screws, washers, etc.

Thanks again, Joe, for your design, drawings, and contributions to this amazing site and hobby/profession.

HayTay

what about making the skirt out of clear plastic tubing and having it telescopic so as the height of the cutter is varied so too is the skirt, or you could create a conserteener (Sp) style with wire supports, to ride over uneven surfaces and yet still create great suction for the dust particals..

Out of curiousity (and people have asked me) How Many people are looking at building the CNC Model 2006.

HayTay


I have already started building 2 actually. I was about to start mine and then my girlfriend ask me to build her one also. Hers will have a cutting surface (total cutting area not including the portion of the top that is unreachable by the router) or 12" X 24".

Mine will be 32" X 60"

I'm working on hers first and the xy tortion table is done. I talked her out of pink and we settled on metalic blue. I'll be starting a thread and posting pictures this coming weekend. As far as electronics I have a number of smaller motors about 100 in-oz for her and I have my set of 425in-oz.. There is another thread dealing with a servo drives (not the UHU but a smaller one rated 16V, 4A). I'm waiting to see how that works out. If it works out well then she can have my big motors and I'll pick up some servos.

Mainly doing this first one by carefully making one prototype of each part then reproducing it on the manual router table. (this manual router table isn't mine, but mine was made from the same plans as this one).

what about making the skirt out of clear plastic tubing and having it telescopic so as the height of the cutter is varied so too is the skirt, or you could create a conserteener (Sp) style with wire supports, to ride over uneven surfaces and yet still create great suction for the dust particals..

hi Salty. I was thinking several skirts attached by snaps, but I have rethought that and think velcro would work better. Similar to your idea but with no moving parts.

Long story but I was building Joe's Machine and the USMC cut my orders short. I will be deploying very soon. I have %95 of the hardware needed to complete his machine....and need to sell it fairly soon....at a discounted rate of course!
james206@cox.net if anyone is interested
/shameless plug

Do the nuts holding the roller skate bearings onto the angle iron need to be blue loc-tite'd or do you use spring (a.k.a. lock washers) on them? I would guess something has to be preventing them from vibrating lose - my instinct would be to use loc-tite, but I thought I should ask the people with actual experience!

Do the nuts holding the roller skate bearings onto the angle iron need to be blue loc-tite'd or do you use spring (a.k.a. lock washers) on them? I would guess something has to be preventing them from vibrating lose - my instinct would be to use loc-tite, but I thought I should ask the people with actual experience!

I use a lockwasher on the end to hold them.

Joe

Do the nuts holding the roller skate bearings onto the angle iron need to be blue loc-tite'd or do you use spring (a.k.a. lock washers) on them? I would guess something has to be preventing them from vibrating lose - my instinct would be to use loc-tite, but I thought I should ask the people with actual experience!
I used Nylock nuts (hex nuts with a nylon insert) on my bearing slide assemblies to hold the skate bearings in position.

Another note: I used "double nuts" with washers (if necessary) on the X & Y axis bearing slide assemblies to correctly position the skate bearings on the pipe. See Joe's Z axis assembly which uses a "single nut" to correctly position the skate bearings. I found it much easier than trying to cut 24 spacers out of a piece of metal tubing.

HayTay

I used Nylock nuts (hex nuts with a nylon insert) on my bearing slide assemblies to hold the skate bearings in position.

Another note: I used "double nuts" with washers (if necessary) on the X & Y axis bearing slide assemblies to correctly position the skate bearings on the pipe. See Joe's Z axis assembly which uses a "single nut" to correctly position the skate bearings. I found it much easier than trying to cut 24 spacers out of a piece of metal tubing.

HayTay

the proper nuts and washers are listed in my assembly manual.

Joe

the proper nuts and washers are listed in my assembly manual.
Wow, how could I have missed the whole assembly manual? Nice work, Joe!

I was doing it the hard way and going by Joes_CNC_Model_2006_R-2.EASM eDrawing. They're shown as metal sleeves just like the small spacers made from 1/8" pipe on JGRO's CNC table. I had quickly scrapped the spacers on my JGRO build in favor of the "double nut - washer" design. Much quicker and easier. A definite sanity saver.

Thank you for sharing,

HayTay

Hello Joe.
I just want to say thanks. You have helped a lot off people that was timid to get started, but really wanted to, because didn't now how . I am a good example. . You made every thing look simpler and know the forum have a lot off new active people that respect and fallow your work and are making there own "Joe's router". I hope you don't change and keep the tread helping others to learn and grow. Hurrah for you. Excuse mi poor English.
Your South America fan.
Hugo Carradini

[QUOTE=hugo carradini]

Thank you, I just hope to see machines poping up soon and see how it is helping others also.

Joe

Here are some simple work hold down clamps i made 8 total, and they fit into the side slots of the bottom torsion box.

Joe

Joe,
How much are those kits, what comes in them?
cadfish

Joe,
How much are those kits, what comes in them?
cadfish

I sell the Kit for 700.00 plus shipping, All the HDPE and MDF (90 pieces) except for the Cutting bed Skin Pieces (mainly for shipping cost because of size). The assembly manual i made has the hardware needed.

If anyone has started making the HDPE and MDF pieces them selves they can tell you it takes up alot of your time. plus with me cutting it you eliminate all guess work and measuring drawings, and figuring out what all is involved, But some people i know of have been making their own over the last two months.

Joe

I'm half-way through building my router table and I already wish that I had just bought the kit from Joe. I know I'll have learned a lot from designing and building my own table, but I really didn't start down this road to become a CNC router builder - I just wanted a CNC router that I could use to accomplish other projects. The best I can hope for from my table is that it will last long enough and route accurately enough to cut out Joe's design so I'm doing a lot of work and buying things twice to try and save a few bucks so that I can buy the fancy software...bleh!

I seriously under-estimated the amount of work involved in building even a "quick and dirty" router table. If it all works out in the end then I will have some satisfaction that I made it myself, but if it doesn't work out then I'll be out all that time and money and I will still end up buying a kit from Joe.

You'll learn the basics, the way the machine works, you'll have troubleshooting skills. You'll have a much better grasp of what your machine can handle and what could/is wrong with the machine, even if your router doesn't work at first. You will have learned a lot even if your router doesn't function exaclty how you want it at first.
Sanghera

Thanks for all the work, and sharing Joe. I leaned a lot from this thread.

You'll learn the basics, the way the machine works, you'll have troubleshooting skills. You'll have a much better grasp of what your machine can handle and what could/is wrong with the machine, even if your router doesn't work at first. You will have learned a lot even if your router doesn't function exaclty how you want it at first.
Sanghera

People can learn this just by the kit also, because they have to put it together and will know every inch of their machine down to every bolt.

Thanks Wade, wanted to make it easier for people to see the proccess of a machine so they will know if they want to tackle it or not.

Joe

sorry joe,
just found out that I work with someone who sells proxxon, he will give me his discount.

sorry joe,
just found out that I work with someone who sells proxxon, he will give me his discount.

ok, no problem, I thought proxxon are handtools and simple machines not cnc, but i could be wrong.

joe

If anyone has started making the HDPE and MDF pieces them selves they can tell you it takes up alot of your time. plus with me cutting it you eliminate all guess work and measuring drawings, and figuring out what all is involved, But some people i know of have been making their own over the last two months.

Joe

It is quite time consuming. In my case I'm making 2 machines, that small one is about half way done, made entirely from 0.75 thick MDF and it's solid as a rock.

Making all the parts yourself is time comsuming, but it gives you a great appreciation and understanding of the machine.

Steven

I am mostly collecting design Ideas right now. I want to build a machine that can do wood, plastic, light aluminum, pcb boards, and even run my plasma tourch. So, no plastic or wood structural elements I guess. Probably make two table surfaces, one with a wood surface and the other with a metal grate and water tray. I like this style of design though.

Has anyone ever used a crossed cable and pulley system to stiffen the carriage assembly? That might help with twist of the carriage.

Another question I had. Would it be useful to put an encoder pulley and wire connected to the carriage, totally separate from the drive system? Since you would be measuring the carriage, and not the motor, you could effectively increase your cutting precision by removing all backlash. I'm sure this would work better on a servo driven system, rather than a stepper motor driven system.

Do the clamps and dust collector come with the kit? If not, how much are they?

I am mostly collecting design Ideas right now. I want to build a machine that can do wood, plastic, light aluminum, pcb boards, and even run my plasma tourch. So, no plastic or wood structural elements I guess. Probably make two table surfaces, one with a wood surface and the other with a metal grate and water tray. I like this style of design though.

Has anyone ever used a crossed cable and pulley system to stiffen the carriage assembly? That might help with twist of the carriage.

Another question I had. Would it be useful to put an encoder pulley and wire connected to the carriage, totally separate from the drive system? Since you would be measuring the carriage, and not the motor, you could effectively increase your cutting precision by removing all backlash. I'm sure this would work better on a servo driven system, rather than a stepper motor driven system.

I do not have twist in the carriage, on this machine i'm 100% happy with it and it performs very well and always has consistant cuts, there are encoders for steppers if you feel it nessec. on this machine i have not lost steps once while cutting with the 200oz motors and 33vdc, (knock on wood).

Do the clamps and dust collector come with the kit? If not, how much are they?

No but you are welcome to the files to make your own when machine is built. you can just ask for them.

Hey Joe,

Have you any idea about the shipping costs of the kit to Belgium (Europe) ?

Thanks in advance!

Hugo

Hey Joe,

Have you any idea about the shipping costs of the kit to Belgium (Europe) ?

Thanks in advance!

Hugo

no i have no clue, I have shipped only here in the US so far, but if you like to check somehow with a carrier you know of, the Package would be 48"x15"x15" and 104lbs has been the average of the ones i have shipped.

from San Antonio, Texas. if you find out let me know curious what it would be.

Thanks, Joe

Thanks for the quick reply. I will be purchasing one from you shortly.

Uhhhh, I'm not talking about your current machine. Wondering if someone had tried this as a method of lightening up the carriage, by reducing it's X Axis thickness. The encoder idea was just that, an idea. On some government systems I used to work on, we made the measurement at the point of use, to decrease backlash error. The measurement isn't coupled to the shaft of the motor at all. I'm guessing it would only work on a servo system. Some of the newer cutting machines work that way, no backlash nut at all. Just an idea. You were asking for ideas about 20 pages ago.

wade. closed loop control requires either servo boards which do the hard work, or mach(x) to support closed-loop control... the author of this software says it will be in a future device.

also, it seems perhaps you meant a seperate measurement would be made by the encoder(like a dro) and then used for backlash data entries??

yes he is talking about a linier encoder system, it would work, but would be expensive i would think.

Both. The encoder would be as you said, separate like a DRO. It's more of a Fully Closed-Loop control system. You would use two encoders on the X-axis carriage, one on each side. The contoller would use the two separate measurements of the carriage sides as the feedback for the control-loop, effectively measuring the twist of the carriage, and compensating that back to the feedback control loop. I didn't want to say closed-loop only, because an encoder on the motor shaft is technically a closed loop control system. Anyway, I'm trying to decide if I have enough smarts to build such a controller with a FPGA and a couple H-bridge drivers on a three phase motor. PWM, three phase VFD, with twist compensation. You should be able to make your carriage extremely light. You might be able to add such a feedback to the Y axis. Just think, out loud, too loud. Thanks.

Joe..

most EXCELLENT work.. you are so nice to share all of this with the community..

I am a complete newbie.. I came here to learn a bit about CNC routers.. before I went out and bought one.. Then I ran into your thread.. Most excellent work..

I do have a couple of questions before I order my kit from you..

Will the machine cut 1/8 aluminum.. I will need to cut up to 1/8 aluminum, Acryllic and Lexan..

Again.. most excellent work..


Could you give me a estimate .. including shipping to St.Pete , Fl.

to jcurtis@vicer.com

There is another thread on making your own servo motor (there are actually a couple of threads on this... Joe, It is part of the one I sent to you on the small servo controller).

They mention DRO encoders listing for something like $35 which are mounted to a shaft extention )or the shaft in the case of double shaft motors like a lot of steppers are made) on the back side of a standard DC motor.

Would something like that work?

If anyone has started making the HDPE and MDF pieces them selves they can tell you it takes up alot of your time. plus with me cutting it you eliminate all guess work and measuring drawings, and figuring out what all is involved, But some people i know of have been making their own over the last two months.

Joe


I see you do a fair amount of cutting of the HDPE and I'm wondering what settings you use for cutting it. I'm a total beginner in general and I tried cutting some the other night that was supposed to end up as a new router mount for my table. What I ended up with was pretty much a melted mass of plastic boogers. I was using a 1/4" 1hp trim router with a 1/4" straight bit. I varied travel speed between 20-30 ipm and router rpm from a low of 16,000 (as low as it goes) to about 25,000 or so and each pass was .125. I would imagine with enough wasted plastic I'd probably get there in the end, but if the wheel's already been invented so to speak....

Any light you could shed would be more than welcome.

I see you do a fair amount of cutting of the HDPE and I'm wondering what settings you use for cutting it. I'm a total beginner in general and I tried cutting some the other night that was supposed to end up as a new router mount for my table. What I ended up with was pretty much a melted mass of plastic boogers. I was using a 1/4" 1hp trim router with a 1/4" straight bit. I varied travel speed between 20-30 ipm and router rpm from a low of 16,000 (as low as it goes) to about 25,000 or so and each pass was .125. I would imagine with enough wasted plastic I'd probably get there in the end, but if the wheel's already been invented so to speak....

Any light you could shed would be more than welcome.

you should use an upspiral bit that way it removes the chips, I use a 1/4" and 1/8" upspiral, carbide bit, i cut it at 60-80ipm at about 12,000-16,000 rpm.

I never use a straight bit.

you should use an upspiral bit that way it removes the chips, I use a 1/4" and 1/8" upspiral, carbide bit, i cut it at 60-80ipm at about 12,000-16,000 rpm.

I never use a straight bit.

What about for surfacing? Still use upspiral bits for that as well? Where do you suggest picking up tooling. The local Home Despot and Lowes seem to be a bit lacking in that department.

What about for surfacing? Still use upspiral bits for that as well? Where do you suggest picking up tooling. The local Home Despot and Lowes seem to be a bit lacking in that department.

Homedepot has a portercable bit which is pretty good, it is an endmill type.

What about for surfacing? Still use upspiral bits for that as well? Where do you suggest picking up tooling. The local Home Despot and Lowes seem to be a bit lacking in that department.

I have always found a excellent sellection of quality bits at pricecutter.com

They are the budget outlet for eagle america,

Well i have made kits for some people and only see one started a thread showing it, hope others come aboard so we can see them as well.

Got the Z Axis Bearing Slide Installed, Here is a list of the hardware.

4 - U-Bolts (5/16" x 2" x 4-1/2")
5/16" I.D. Clear Hose

Also Here is the 3/4" drill rod cut to 14 3/4" lengths and ground the ends at slight 45, they fit very tight into the Holes in the Z Axis Carriage.

I will dremel the extra thread which sticks out.

Edit: forgot to mention the hose lengths were cut to 2.75" and I will switch from a Lockwasher and nut to a Locking nut at the end of the U bolts.

Hi joe2000

nice piece of work from what i can see so far

simple and i imagine it does the job just like what i read in la_coterie thread .

i give u guys credit u have great imaginations and very inventive concepts

keep up the good work and would be lovely to see the workings of ur whole machine once its complete and maybe document the project from start to finish

cheers

Has anyone noticed that this thread has gotten over 59,250 views? The thread with the closest number of views is 14,000. Joe, your innovaton has definately triggered the interest of a lot of people. Hats off to you and thanks for a great build.

Hello Joe
In the beginning I got in contact with you. I was so interested in joining this group and had so little information that I think I did not sound logic and you might had thought y was a little fool when I first write you. Beside, my English is not good enough for technical writing so it was hard for me to get going. For fortune other people that could help me in Spanish did it and know I can show you part off my work (very basic) and maybe ask for your advice in the future. I really want to make your last design and I am getting ready for that.
This note is to say thanks because you been absolutely open with your designs and had permitted many people get going.
Hope your wise mind keep producing new ideas and projects for the real lovers of machine building.
I friend from Venezuela
Hugo Carradini

Has anyone noticed that this thread has gotten over 59,250 views? The thread with the closest number of views is 14,000. Joe, your innovaton has definately triggered the interest of a lot of people. Hats off to you and thanks for a great build.


Wow, that is a lot of views, probably over 200 of those are mine and responces, But I hope it is able to help others out.

Hugo,
glad you were able to get a machine together and working, you can mesage me if you have any questions i can see if i can help if possible, or just start a thread and ask, there are alot of people here with knowledge (alot more than me) on machines, but with all the talents here i'm sure a solution or sugestion is just a message away.

Joe

Hello Joe.
Now that I started to use my machine, I learned a lot of what to do and what not to do, so know I am ready to start cutting a real machine. I tried to download your drawings but it seems like it’s not working any more so I wonder if you could send then to me. I am very excited with the idea of building it and I promise sending pictures of the process.
Thanks.
Hugo Carradini
vitrales@cantv.net

Hello Joe.
Now that I started to use my machine, I learned a lot of what to do and what not to do, so know I am ready to start cutting a real machine. I tried to download your drawings but it seems like it’s not working any more so I wonder if you could send then to me. I am very excited with the idea of building it and I promise sending pictures of the process.
Thanks.
Hugo Carradini
vitrales@cantv.net

message sent

Thanks

Hi Joe , I may have overlooked !!! but here few questions , 1: what is the usable cutting area ?? 2 : what is the footprint of it ?? and last I'm almost done with JGRO model, will i be able to cut your design with it ???

I'm not sure i have your latest drawings !!

Thanks

Bruno

Joe--

I'm not sure if you got my follow-up private message to you. I was hoping you would you be so kind as to e-mail a copy of your plans to me at twist@fowlie.net if you would be so kind. As well, I was wondering what methods of payment you accept if I can get the shipping lined up for your pre-cut parts?

Thanks,
--James

Hi Joe , I may have overlooked !!! but here few questions , 1: what is the usable cutting area ?? 2 : what is the footprint of it ?? and last I'm almost done with JGRO model, will i be able to cut your design with it ???

I'm not sure i have your latest drawings !!

Thanks

Bruno

cutting area is 24x45x6.5, footprint 3'x6', I do not know the cutting area of the jgro.

I must be dumb, but I can't find the instructions for making the bearing slides.

JGRO cutting area is about 15x30 !!!

I must be dumb, but I can't find the instructions for making the bearing slides.

They are the standard that everyone uses, as referenced in the JGRO Machine.

JGRO cutting area is about 15x30 !!!

The 30" will be a little short in cutting the long runs for the gantry, the z axis pipe suports and also the long runs for the z axis. and the skins for the gantry.

cutting area is 24x45x6.5, footprint 3'x6', I do not know the cutting area of the jgro.

I didn't think of that before. Looks like the old 48" bathroom vanity I was saving as a base may be a bit too small for the table. I was thinking I could use the base for storage.

That's OK. The weight of this machine would probably be too much for it anyhow.

Hey Joe. Could you maybe start a post with some of the projects you've created with this machine. (other than the kits you've been making).

They are the standard that everyone uses, as referenced in the JGRO Machine.

Thanks for the quick reply

Hello Joe, I was wondering what software do you run in your controller for the router? And what do you have for programming. I run a komo cnc that has a fanuc controller, the guys at work use gibbs cam to program. I have a older copy of that. Thanks, and the router looks great! I`m going to take a crack at building it.

Hello Joe
In the beginning I got in contact with you. I was so interested in joining this group and had so little information that I think I did not sound logic and you might had thought y was a little fool when I first write you. Beside, my English is not good enough for technical writing so it was hard for me to get going. For fortune other people that could help me in Spanish did it and know I can show you part off my work (very basic) and maybe ask for your advice in the future. I really want to make your last design and I am getting ready for that.
This note is to say thanks because you been absolutely open with your designs and had permitted many people get going.
Hope your wise mind keep producing new ideas and projects for the real lovers of machine building.
I friend from Venezuela
Hugo Carradini


HI

hugo carradini is that electronics parrallel port interface card from ?

http://www.cnc4pc.com/Parallel_Port_Interface_Card.htm

if not what is the electronics ??

cheers

Hello Joe, I was wondering what software do you run in your controller for the router? And what do you have for programming. I run a komo cnc that has a fanuc controller, the guys at work use gibbs cam to program. I have a older copy of that. Thanks, and the router looks great! I`m going to take a crack at building it.


I use the Hobby CNC Board and motors, using Mach3, no parrallel interface needed for the Hobby CNC Board, It runs Unipolar 200 oz motors but i have hooked the keling 425 oz bipolar to it and they run 305oz/in in unipolar mode.

Joe

I use the Hobby CNC Board and motors, using Mach3, no parrallel interface needed for the Hobby CNC Board, It runs Unipolar 200 oz motors but i have hooked the keling 425 oz bipolar to it and they run 305oz/in in unipolar mode.

Joe

hi Joe

is it possible to list all the places where your purchased the electronics ? in one post , rather than being scatted all over .

A explanation , in why you choose that product as apposed to what others are around ?

what brand and type and size in one post so others can see where to obtain there electronics components

1. stepper motors ?
2. servo motors if used ?? why didn't you consider servo motors ??
3. stepper motor drives ?
4. servo motor drives ?
5. Power supply(s)
6. CNC interface electronics ?
7. software to drive the machine ?
8. Drawing soft ( CAD , CAD/CAM ) ?

If possible put links to websites so it makes life easier for other wishing to do a similar project ???

cheers

Hi
FVP GTp , yes it is the C1 - Parallel Port Interface Card. It works fine.


Hugo.

Joe
While you are at it could you buy the parts and build it for me. I wouldn't want to put any effort into this myself.

Thanks You :o

hi Joe

is it possible to list all the places where your purchased the electronics ? in one post , rather than being scatted all over .

A explanation , in why you choose that product as apposed to what others are around ?

what brand and type and size in one post so others can see where to obtain there electronics components

1. stepper motors ?
2. servo motors if used ?? why didn't you consider servo motors ??
3. stepper motor drives ?
4. servo motor drives ?
5. Power supply(s)
6. CNC interface electronics ?
7. software to drive the machine ?
8. Drawing soft ( CAD , CAD/CAM ) ?

If possible put links to websites so it makes life easier for other wishing to do a similar project ???

cheers

Hey joe, are you still selling your kits? If so i'm interested. could you send me an email with the price? my email is mxpro32@gmail.com. thanks

Hey joe, are you still selling your kits? If so i'm interested. could you send me an email with the price? my email is mxpro32@gmail.com. thanks

sent

First off, let me thank Joe for all the time and effort he has put in to help us newbies build a CNC router. From what I can tell this seems like a very nice machine for someone like me. I see a lot of pictures of parts that have been cut out with the machine that look very good. Could somebody post some pictures of carvings (something that has hills and valleys) that has been run on this machine? I don't see any examples of this.

Again, a big thank you to Joe,
Doug

Joe,

Could I also get a price on the kit? nanorotors@gmail.com

Bill

Joe, would you send me a copy of your Drawing files, in AutoCAD and or SolidWorks formats. (voltsandbolts@yahoo.com) Thinking of taking on building your machine. It looks like a lot of work, but fun as well. You have done an excellent job with your design.

If you are still sending your dwg format files for your router, I would appreciate a copy. This will be my second router and the size is perfect for several projects I have waiting. Thanks.... dlegard@comcast.net

Joe, please, can you send a copy of your drawing files to mail@jojje.eu ?

Because I living in Sweden, I must change it to mm, so if it's not to much trouble for you, I prefer it in SolidWorks format. If not, I can import it from AutoCAD format.

If you go to http://bergan.se you can see what I'm doing with my spare time :)

Thanks very much, Jojje

Joe
Please add my name to the list of senders. jkwelker@comcast.net. Keep up the great work. This is one of many threads I have printed out and turned into a binder.

Thank you.

Joe,
I want to say thanks for contributing your plans and ideas for everyone to admire. I was really impressed by them--so much that I had to build the machine. I am finishing up some final things on the machine with dust collection being one of them. I liked the idea you posted and was wondering how it has been working for you. I was a littled concerned how the 1" length brush would work when cutting through 3/4" material. Could you post some input as to how this setup is working and if you would change anything? Also, do you have to remove the dust cover when changing a bit? By the way, this has been the most awsome piece of machinery I have every built. I can't say enough about it. Thanks again.

Jeff

hello, How do you convert these files to, parts files(.vnc) ,iges file(.igs) dxf file (,dxf), point list files(.txt), parasolid files(.x_t,xmt), SAT (ACIS) files (.sat), Solidedge files(.par), Solidworks(.SLDPRT). These are the format that gibbs cam can read , I hope, so the guys at work can program these for me and i can run the parts on the KOMO router that i run. I`m tring to learn gibbscam for myself but it would be alot better if i could just open them in gibbscam. Thanks. And thanks to Joe for all his work!

This thread now has over 73,000 views and counting. Joe, you have definately made the new "JGRO". Congratulations on an excellent build and such incredible interest from the Zone community.

Sorry i have not posted lately, I have worked 110 hours in one week, getting a job out at work, I work for a civil engineering and land surveying company here in texas, been doing it for 24 yrs.

you can get the drawing files here.

http://mail.lumenlab.com/~joe2000chevy/CNC_Model_2006_R-1/


daltonjl:
Looking forward to a post and pictures of your machine. and maybe a writeup on how it works for you.

The dust collector is ok, but to improve it i would make a bottom chamber to allow collection just around the bit area, and use longer brushes, or better yet use some vinyl, as a dust skirt looking similar to the vinyl curtins you see into freezer's

txcowdog,

Thanks for the kind words, and hope people enjoy reading these posts.

Joe

Thanks my friend :wave:

Thanks Joe my message was about your drawing , then you put the link !!!!

what accuracy are you able to get with your design ??? I have just completed JGRO design and because of bending I have hard time to do better than 25 mils, 1/64 being 16 mils i would like to get at least 10 mils !!!!

As far as i Know it is less than 0.01" i do not have any calipers to measure it, but you have to understand this is a DIY machine and for what it is intended for it works perfect. All the parts i cut come out exactly how i design it, and cutting the kit with it they all line up with no problem and all bolt holes are perfect. So to awnser your question accuracy, is as good as you can get out of a wood built machine.

Joe


Mindstorm88,

This is from an earlier post within this thread.

Hello Joe.
Do you think that a 260 onz motor can move 80 lbs of x axis and cut 80 IPM. If not ¿what size motor should I use to reach that speed, with that weight and 7/16 10 tpi acme rod? I am trying to save money with a new project.
Thanks
Hugo Carradini

Thanks NIL8r i had mist that one !!!!

Joe,
Where did you install the home and limit switches? Do you have pictures by chance. All I have left on my machine is to install these switches then I should br ready to cut.

John

Hi John,

These are the ones I got for my router. I haven't wired them in yet.

http://cgi.ebay.com/3-CNC-travel-limit-switches-4-stepper-motor-actuator_W0QQitemZ330018266604QQihZ014QQcategoryZ71394QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

When you wire in yours please post a detailed diagram.

I'm pretty new to these forums (This is my first post although I've been lurking for a few months now) and have to say that the design of this CNC looks excellent. I'm in the market for something similar and have no access to a cnc router to fabricate the parts. Bit of a chicken and egg situation...

Obviously shipping 90 pieces of MDF in a 48" x 15" crate would be a little expensive!

Is there anyone in the UK who would be willing to fabricate parts for distribution in Europe? (obviously with Joe's permission!)

Also with regard to the damn Metric / Imperial measurements, I'm in the UK and assume MDF can also be purchased in 12.7mm (probably illegal to sell it described as 1/2 inch")

I changed a few things. I can now use the table better and later I change the X Axis Torsion Box to a vacuumtable. And I changed it to Metric. Hope you dont mind Joe :)

I changed a few things. I can now use the table better and later I change the X Axis Torsion Box to a vacuumtable. And I changed it to Metric. Hope you dont mind Joe :)
Hello, I am going to make a vacuum table as well. What are you using for the pump? Wade

I changed a few things. I can now use the table better and later I change the X Axis Torsion Box to a vacuumtable. And I changed it to Metric. Hope you dont mind Joe :)

Since the X-Axis has the Pocket Holes throughout the box, you can simply cover the side holes and place a connection at either end of the table and then mill the holes, using the router itself, and you will have an instant vacume table. This was one reason all the pieces of the X-axis ribs have the pockets cut out, other is for weight.

Joe

I changed a few things. I can now use the table better and later I change the X Axis Torsion Box to a vacuumtable. And I changed it to Metric. Hope you dont mind Joe :)

Just a note, on your drawing, the placement of the leadscrew may not work as i see it, the rear rollers of the Z Axis will hit it. Also I placed it behind the Y Axis to prevent contamination of material onto the Leadscrew.

Joe

Hi Joe.

I move the rear rollers of the Z Axis away a little, and maybe move it little more to the front.

/// Jojje

Hi Joe.

I move the rear rollers of the Z Axis away a little, and maybe move it little more to the front.

/// Jojje

that will prob. work, however be careful not to increase the distance i have shown, greater than the distance between the pipe rails of the Y-Axis, this could cause leaverage of the Z-Axis to be greater than the Y-Axis.

It's shorter or same as yours. But this is also very important.

Hello, I am going to make a vacuum table as well. What are you using for the pump? Wade

I dont know yet, but why not use a refrigerator pump?
It's not use the airfloow for cooling, as a vacuumcleaner does.

Or you can take a look here for ideas:
http://www.dream-models.com/eco/vacuumpump.html

Just found this. I wish they had an outlet in Australia.

http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=7368&step=4&showunits=inches

Ps. this is one of the best reads I have had. gotaluvthistread. ;-)

Paul

Thanks for the info Jojje, the only thing that bothers me about the frig pump is that they can overheat, i was thinking about useing a auto ac compresser, you chould just hook it up to a electric motor. I don`t know how much vacuum would be required. The pumps at my work for the routers are big.

I Have the machine assembled and cutting, but I am having a wierd problem. I zero the z axis at the top of the material and then run the program. The first cut is always deeper then it is supposed to be. All the following cuts are the correct depth. Is this caused by backlash?

Zigmart, I think I've been noticing the same problem in my machine too. I've got some dumpstercnc anti-backlast nuts I was thinking about trying on the z axis and see if it corrected the problem.

Does not sound like backlash to me, because all cuts would have the same backlash in them IMO.

What cam program are you using and also what control software.

can you show the effect in a picture?

Joe

Joe,
I am using sheetcam and mach3

Joe,
I am using sheetcam and mach3

Can you elaberate a little more on the problem, when it occurs? when you do a plung or is the whole 1st cut the same level, is the 1st cut at a certain depth, does the software prorate the depth from depth to stock material, there are so many variable, we need more information. do you do ramping or just plunge, can you post pictures and diagrams?

Joe

In sheetcam I set up a file to cut .5 inch with a .0625 increment ( no ramping). When I run the prog