CNCadmin
08-19-2003, 04:18 PM
Anyone have a water cooled CPU
http://www.googlegear.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=375001&ps=ho4 ?
http://www.googlegear.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=375001&ps=ho4 ?
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View Full Version : Water cooling CPUs CNCadmin 08-19-2003, 04:18 PM Anyone have a water cooled CPU http://www.googlegear.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=375001&ps=ho4 ? cadcam 08-19-2003, 04:41 PM Not yet but have been thinking about it. I like to hang out at these site some time cheking thisnkd out. http://www.tweaktown.com/ http://www.tweakmonster.com/ http://www.xoxide.com/ This one has Water cooling modes. kong 08-19-2003, 06:19 PM Dunno if I ever showed you this one I made, it was back in the day when all I had was a drill press and a cross-sliding vice, yeah, honest! kong 08-19-2003, 06:20 PM It took me hours to make the insides! NeoMoses 08-19-2003, 06:56 PM Yup, I've watercooled a few PCs. I'll never go back to aircooling, either. It's amazing at how quiet and cool your computer can be. Here's some of the blocks I've made: http://www.logiccooling.com/images/evo3_4.jpg http://www.logiccooling.com/images/97003_1.jpg CNCadmin 08-19-2003, 07:18 PM How does it all work? cadcam 08-19-2003, 07:20 PM Just open the copmuter and add water. Close cover start computer.:drowning: NeoMoses 08-19-2003, 09:32 PM Originally posted by CNCadmin How does it all work? In it's simplest form, just like the cooling system on your car. I prefer closed loop systems because they are such low maintenance. You need a pump, a radiator, and a waterblock to attach to the CPU. Add some tubing and hose clamps and you're ready to rock and roll! The pump forces water through the system, the waterblock removes heat from the CPU and transfers it to the water, and the radiator transfers heat from the water to the ambient air. I must say one thing, though. Watercooling is not necessarily for everyone. Here are the only 4 reasons I can see for wanting to watercool a PC. 1. Your PC is heavily overclocked and it needs it (My case.) 2. Your PC is too loud and you want it quieter. (My previous case) 3. You love to tinker with stuff, so why not tinker with the 'puter (also me...) 4. You just want to brag to your friends. (not me, I keep it secret.) Good luck and keep the questions coming (c'mon, try to stump me!) :stickpoke If you're really interested in this, PM or email me. I'll walk you through the whole process. ToyMaker 08-19-2003, 10:09 PM How much difference does water cooling make in cpu temp? With a clip-on fan the heat sink on my PII-300 is just a little too hot to hold (about 115F, I would guess). What should I expect if I installed a fluid system. In automotive cooling systems pure water is not (necessarily) the best fluid. Some combination (50-50?) of water and ethylene glycol has a much better heat transfer characteristic. Does anyone run mixtures in their cpu coolant? robotic regards, Tom = = = = = "The only thing men like more than undressing women with their eyes is eyeing them when they undress." - - Dr. Mardy Grothe NeoMoses 08-19-2003, 10:39 PM Originally posted by ToyMaker How much difference does water cooling make in cpu temp? With a clip-on fan the heat sink on my PII-300 is just a little too hot to hold (about 115F, I would guess). Take my CPU as an example. I run an Athlon XP1600+ (1400MHz is default speed) faster than 2000 MHz, a 600 MHz improvement. With a standard OEM heatsink/fan(cost~$10), I could expect my maximum overclock to be about 1600 MHz, and temperatures would be around 65C. With a high end copper heatsink with a very high CFM fan (cost~$60), my top speed was around 1800 MHz and my temps were about 50C. With watercooling (cost~$150), my top speed is about 2000 MHz and my temps are about 35C. Do you see the possibilities? Much like racing, how fa$$$t do you want to go? What should I expect if I installed a fluid system. You should expect to spend more on the watercooling system than your PC is worth. A watercooling system might allow you to overclock that PC to about 400-500 MHz, but will cost you around $150-$200. for that kind of money, you would be much better off buying a new motherboard, memory, and CPU. (XP1700/Abit motherboard/256MB RAM, for example). You would get 10x the benefits. Like I said above, watercooling PCs is not for everybody. (sorry if that sounded harsh...just trying to get a point across) In automotive cooling systems pure water is not (necessarily) the best fluid. Some combination (50-50?) of water and ethylene glycol has a much better heat transfer characteristic. Does anyone run mixtures in their cpu coolant? Yes, the intelligent people run mixtures to minimize corrosion in their systems. Thermally, water is the best fluid available for these types of systems. Adding anti-freeze just changes freezing/boiling temps, but actually hurts the thermal characteristics of water. In watercooling PCs, you never will be boiling water (but in some cases you may have it below freezing... more on that later). Most use a 90% water/10% dex-cool solution for anti-corrosion. keithorr 08-19-2003, 11:12 PM "the intelligent people run mixtures to minimize corrosion in their systems" I don't think intelligence has anything to do with this. This is about tinkering. If you wanted, you could use your propane powered turbine to cool the cooling water (and get your beer cold at the same time) Check out the link: http://www.asciimation.co.nz/beer/ NeoMoses 08-20-2003, 08:11 AM OK, it's more common sense. I've seen way too many people spend $200-$300 on a watercooling system, then just fill it with tap water. Within a month, the bacteria and corrosion have completely clogged their radiator and corroded their waterblock. It's kinda sad the first time you see it happen to someone, but then you realize, "Hey, distilled water costs less than $1/gallon and anti-freeze is less than $10." To me, if you have hundreds of people recommending anti-corrosives/distilled water from years of experience, and you ignore that good advice, you're really not that intelligent. Cool Turbine site! Yeah, there are more extreme ways of cooling your PC. One of the most popular extreme methods is actually using an evaporative cooling loop with either propane or some other refrigerant (R12, R134a, etc..) Many of these people will see CPU temps around -40C, and obviously will attain higher speeds. Also, a high powered peltier can chill a CPU very well. Take a 226W pelt and couple it with a good watercooling system and you can expect sub-zero temps, too. The possibilities are endless! I know that with the talent at this forum, we might see some new and interesting watercooling solutions born. Good luck to all.:rainfro: ToyMaker 08-20-2003, 08:54 AM Like I said above, watercooling PCs is not for everybody. (sorry if that sounded harsh...just trying to get a point across) Sounds pretty realistic to me, which is exactly the answer I was looking for :) I also use a P4-2.1 GHz fan cooled, but it's a company machine and tweaking is verboten :( . You cited several temperatures (65C, 50C, 35C, etc.). I assume those are at the cooling block, as it might be kinda tough to measure die temperature :) . But, what is the delta across the case of the cpu? (I know Intel and AMD probably publish these figures in the data sheets, but you're closer :D ). robotic regards, Tom = = = = = "I can never remember whether it snowed for six days and six nights when I was twelve or whether it snowed for twelve days and twelve nights when I was six." - - Dylan Thomas NeoMoses 08-20-2003, 11:40 AM Both Intel and AMD CPUs have internal diodes that report temperatures. Whether or not the motherboard reads these temperatures or uses a thermistor that touches the back of the CPU is decided by the motherboard manufacturers. Also, the accuracy of these CPU temp monitors are very debatable. For instance, I have seen Intel CPUs/Mobos that report full load temps below the ambient air temperature, even though they are cooled by a cheap, aluminum heatsink. Needless to say, this makes it impossible to compare temperatures from one computer to the other. Go figure. So, assume that when I say "50C CPU temps" I'm quoting the internal temperature of the CPU. There is a temperature gradient across the thermal boundary where the heatsink/waterblock meets the CPU surface, but with today's equipment it is impossible to measure accurately. The best measurements of this "Interface Resistance" have come from those who have very accurate CPU die simulators with calibrated temperature probes on both the heat source and the waterblock. Here's the basic message behind all of this: The cooler a CPU runs, the faster it can run, ceteris paribus. JFettig 01-17-2004, 06:57 PM I have been watercooling for a few years now, I make all my own stuff I run www.wc101.com and am a sr member at overclockers forums. heres a few of my blocks http://www.wc101.com/JFettig/wb1/ http://www.wc101.com/JFettig/wb2/ http://www.wc101.com/JFettig/gpu1/ -edit- oops, forgot to add my supapeltblock:D http://www.wc101.com/JFettig/supapeltblock/ I just got a duron 1600 modded into a t-bred B running at 3000+ on water:D(thats 2430mhz) Jon ezland00 01-17-2004, 11:50 PM Originally posted by JFettig I have been watercooling for a few years now, I make all my own stuff I run www.wc101.com and am a sr member at overclockers forums. heres a few of my blocks http://www.wc101.com/JFettig/wb1/ http://www.wc101.com/JFettig/wb2/ http://www.wc101.com/JFettig/gpu1/ -edit- oops, forgot to add my supapeltblock:D http://www.wc101.com/JFettig/supapeltblock/ I just got a duron 1600 modded into a t-bred B running at 3000+ on water:D(thats 2430mhz) Jon What kind of mill is that? JFettig 01-17-2004, 11:58 PM Thats my homier mini mill http://www.wc101.com/JFettig/mill/ <--my cnc conversion Jon CNCadmin 05-14-2004, 11:43 PM Pump CNCadmin 05-14-2004, 11:45 PM more CNCadmin 05-14-2004, 11:48 PM Plumbing CNCadmin 05-14-2004, 11:48 PM Water block CNCadmin 05-14-2004, 11:49 PM Block Nono 05-16-2004, 04:45 AM If you want to keep it simple for those who are curious... there are several kits available namely Koolances EXOS. For about 200 bucks your set, including a water block. I am running a p4 2.4ghz 533mhz bus in an aopen 800fsb and havent found a fan based heat sink that will keep it under 45c and now it stays at a constant 28 degrees unless the ambient temp gets over a hundred f outside then it will creep up to 32c........if you go liquid you can't go back...but you can go through the cracks in the floor:D tsutt 05-16-2004, 10:48 AM CNCADIM, why is there 3 ports on the cooling block i would think an inlet and outlet would suffice. And what kind of pumps do they use. Todd CNCadmin 05-16-2004, 11:12 AM You get better cooling the water hits the center and the force outward provides better heat to water transfer. cadcam 05-16-2004, 11:28 AM Paul can we see more picture of the hole computer along with the hardware specs sir? CNCadmin 05-16-2004, 11:39 AM When I get back from vacation. cadcam 05-16-2004, 02:47 PM WHAT Vacation, oh that's right we all stay here and take care the board while you go off an play.. I will remeber this. WallCrawler 05-24-2004, 01:32 PM nice I like to see the temps when its running.... I have software to check temps for you. Let me know when you need them... CNCadmin 05-24-2004, 04:26 PM Originally posted by WallCrawler nice I like to see the temps when its running.... I have software to check temps for you. Let me know when you need them... I have have software as well to do that. kong 05-24-2004, 05:01 PM .....and if you guys get really fancy, you could whack an LCD on the machine, and have it display temps and stats - if you buy one from Matrix Orbital, they have 3 or 4 outputs, which you could program to switch on a fan when a certain temperature is reached, or turn on a warning light. Ahh, good old modding days! IJ. 05-24-2004, 05:50 PM Originally posted by kong .....and if you guys get really fancy, you could whack an LCD on the machine, and have it display temps and stats - if you buy one from Matrix Orbital, they have 3 or 4 outputs, which you could program to switch on a fan when a certain temperature is reached, or turn on a warning light. Ahh, good old modding days! I've been running my P4 3Ghz water cooled since I got it :)! On air it idled at 43c and in game sat on 51c :(. At the moment typing this it's sitting on 26c and in games it gets to 38c. I use a DigiDoc to control the fans and monitor temps as it does 8 channels. My Water Cooling is based on parts from Swiftech with a Black Ice Radiator dual 120 mm fans and an Enheim pump. It's ran trouble free for well over a year now and is pretty well a set and forget system. When I had an ATI card I had that WC'd but when I put the FX5900Ultra in I didn't get around to adapting a water block for it but the LeadTech cooling is good enough not to bother. CNCadmin 06-11-2004, 08:14 AM Well I finally got my computer up and running. I bought my cpu and mother board from egghead and everything they send me would not work. They got tired of sending me replacements so they credited my account and I bought the same stuff from zipzoomfly. Got the stuff put all to getter and worked perfect. I guess egghead sold DOA products. At idle it's 32c and running full bore 39-40c and that is 5% overclocked. WallCrawler 06-11-2004, 11:27 AM were are the pic's CNCadmin 06-11-2004, 11:36 AM "Where are the pics?" I will post some tonight. Kerri Ann 08-15-2004, 02:00 AM .....and if you guys get really fancy, you could whack an LCD on the machine, and have it display temps and stats - if you buy one from Matrix Orbital, they have 3 or 4 outputs, which you could program to switch on a fan when a certain temperature is reached, or turn on a warning light. Ahh, good old modding days! or if you're really into modding stuff, you can make an LCD yourself... Matrix Orbital LCD are too costly for me ($100+), and I spent less than $15 dollars on the parts to make mine. http://www.geocities.com/ResearchTriangle/1495/ee_lcd.html i used the pinout from that site to hook it up... scottsss 08-15-2004, 06:15 PM I made my first block for a friend. Ran it for two weeks to check for leaks and just as sort of a proof of concept. Didn't look pretty the first one but it worked so well. My question to those who have made some of th nice looking blocks inside, how did you get the nice finish? I know my mill had some back lash issues at the time I built the first block and that was part of the problem. But did you use HS cutters or Carbide? I plan later to do some more work in copper and any help would be great. JFettig 08-15-2004, 06:41 PM I always use solid carbide, and coolant, lots of it:D I typically take 1/4*diameter to get a good finish, I can take .05" with a 1/8" carbide at 4ipm without any problems, works well. I did compensate for backlash, and dont have much, I run at about 3000rpm. HSS does not last long in copper, maybe a few peices, and thats about it. I recently made a new block maybe Ill post some pics of later. Jon scottsss 08-15-2004, 07:55 PM You using a 2 flute or 4 flute? I made the mistake of using mist cooling and found it did to a degree work but he cavity had to be cleaned out every few minutes or so or I was cutting chipps I already cut. Plan to upgrade toa flood system in the future. Just need to build an enclosure first to minumize the mess. Even though I vacumed and swept every now and then I still find little bits of metal I somehow missed. JFettig 08-15-2004, 10:08 PM I use 2 flute, I use misting setups on the bridgeports at work, they arent too messy, I can only imagine how messy flood would be in that open area:o Jon nervis1 01-23-2005, 07:28 PM Heres mine, p4 3.2, Koolance water blocks, and exos cooling unit. Went from consistant 50-60C to 38-45C. Still need to tuck those wires up... cnc2k 01-23-2005, 08:05 PM Nice setup, UV is bad for you eyes cnc2k 07-31-2005, 03:58 AM i need a water block for A64 socket, can anyone make me one? despat 04-23-2006, 09:56 PM I've modded the XPS to accept an AQUARIOUS II Water cooling system and I finally settled on using the Koolance CPU-180 Waterblock. It has pipes sticking out on the same plan as the block itself and probably of the best waterblocks for the CPU. Here are the pic. Belows is the Water block in it's place. http://www.patchpalace.com/Dell/xps water/IMAGE_00071.jpg Just incase some of you may be wondering what's the big copper piece, it's a custom heat sink that I created to cool the Nvidia 7800. It take heat away from the Core and the top (only) RAM chips to the left (where I've AS5ed the rectangular part of the heatsink over the left CPU heatsink assembly fins. Air from the fan (in the pic) also blow over that rectangular part (further cooling the GPU). http://www.patchpalace.com/Dell/xps water/IMAGE_00073.jpg Below, you can see that I removed the battery (not much need for it, since this will be always sitting on my desktop anyway) from it's bay and lead the inlet and outlet tubes from the waterblock. Notice the AQUARIUS tubing has springs inside to avoid kinks (an absolute necessity esp if you're trying to water a laptop)! http://www.patchpalace.com/Dell/xps water/IMAGE_00074.jpg Below is a closeup of the hole in the battery compartment that I channeled the outlet tubing. I found a nice little hole with a rectangular cover that can be removed (i'm not sure it this is for the Bluetooth or not, but it sure helped me). http://www.patchpalace.com/Dell/xps water/IMAGE_00075.jpg Below, I've tried to take a closeup of the hole that I found to slot the inlet tube. Sorry about the confusing background; I took this in the kitchen so you might see some kitchen utensils through the larger holes in the bay. These holes are not covered by the palm rest (and are not available for the tubes) http://www.patchpalace.com/Dell/xps water/IMAGE_00076.jpg Below is the outlet tube path from the block. I found a gap around the fans holding and down out the bottom. WIthout the spring in the tube, I'd have a kink in it. http://www.patchpalace.com/Dell/xps water/IMAGE_00078.jpg Another pic of the waterblock. The outlet tube can't be seen as I ran it through a cavity (that directs air from the 3rd fan out towards the back). I also had to make a hole in the cavity of the 3rd fan, The fan cavity is really big so the tube does not obstruct the fan is you pass it along the sides. The hole is positioned next to the hole in the battery compartment (refer to the first picture in this post to see the hole). http://www.patchpalace.com/Dell/xps water/IMAGE_00079.jpg Below is the whole setup (temporary as you can see). I'm going to mod the stand (that the XPS is sitting on) so that there is a small boxed area on the stands front-right side. The box will harbor the radiator (which will stick out the side for air) and pump. The stand is only 3.5 inches high so part of the pump (which must remain standing up) will stick up into the space of the battery comparment. http://www.patchpalace.com/Dell/xps water/IMAGE_00080.jpg TThe beautiful :dance2: thing about this mod is that my system is basically the same (with it's original fan-runned cooling solution still intact), however now with the option to water cooler. If I ever get tired of water cooling, all I need to do is disconnect the cooling kit leave the two tubes dangling. Unlike a desktop cooling mod (where you must open up and replace the waterblock with a heatsink), my waterblock is here to stay and can be turned on or off at leisure. Without cooler running (i.e. waterblock is installed but pump turned off) and with default fangui settings (gaming profile), the Max idle temps I get are 68 for CPU and 54 for GPU. I've completed the Water-Air cooling station that hides away and enhances the cooling process. Here are the steps: First I got a Dell Monitor stand for $10.00 on Ebay. The image below shows that stand with the top cover removed and a square hold sawed out (use one of those round saws or a dremel cause this stuff if hard plastic). I also used a bit of intuition to create two passages leading from the center to the side (and covered them with the white plastic sheets which I glued. There will eventually be passages for air to be blown in from underneath and out directly into the right and left corner intake vents on the bottom of the XPS. http://www.patchpalace.com/Dell/xps water/IMAGE_00083.jpg Below I've fitted a foodsaver in that square hole. If you've not guessed by now, it'll hold the Aquarius II Radiator (with an ThermalTake X-Blower fan blowing air on the the radiator) and the Pump/Reservoir. http://www.patchpalace.com/Dell/xps water/IMAGE_00081.jpg Below is the stand now upside-down. Notice the hole I cut for the 80mm fan to blow air the passages (to the right and left). http://www.patchpalace.com/Dell/xps water/IMAGE_00084.jpg Next, I screwed a 80mm ThermalTake Smart fan that has a temperature probe (which controls the speed of the fan). I'll probably tape the probe to the GPU copper heatsink (see my earlier posts) that I created. http://www.patchpalace.com/Dell/xps water/IMAGE_00085.jpg Below is the side view of the stand where you can see that I had to cut a hole for the other fan. http://www.patchpalace.com/Dell/xps water/IMAGE_00086.jpg Almost done now. I purchased a 12V AC adapter and attached the 2 fans (the Radiator and the 80mm fan) and the pump to that power source. Remember (from my previous posts) that I'm not worried about having the water pump start with my system, cause the XPS does not depend entirely on the waterblock for its cooling (i.e the water cooling is an optional enhancement that further cools the system along with Dell's stock fans (3 of them). http://www.patchpalace.com/Dell/xps water/IMAGE_00087.jpg Next, I attached the two fans to ThermalTake Total Watts Viewer panel. The X-blower (radiator fan) speed will be manually controlled by one of the knobs on the panel. The other knob will (optionally) allow me to control the other fan (that will blow air into the vents and can be Probe-controlled also). Notice I've put the top cover back on after cutting two holes corresponding to the areas under the laptop where the vents exist. http://www.patchpalace.com/Dell/xps water/IMAGE_00088.jpg A closeup of the X-blower fan which pulls air from both the front and back and throws it into the radiator fins. Btw, the X-blower is a quiter fan then the original 80mm fan that came with the ThermalTake Aquarius II radiator. http://www.patchpalace.com/Dell/xps water/IMAGE_00089.jpg Wiring was the most time consuming part of this project. I had to find a little housing for all the wires and cut holes in it so that the female sockets can stick out of them. I also connected the Molex 4 pin plug to the adapter (sorry can't see this part cause it's inside the white box (housing) that's now screwed on the bottom. This mod makes it easy for me to connect the disconnect the power leads of the fans and the pump. I've also put a mesh over the 80mm fan to keep the dust out. http://www.patchpalace.com/Dell/xps water/IMAGE_00090.jpg Below I'm just about to settle the XPS on it's cooling station (or a pretty permanent nest until I find a smaller cooling kit that'll fit entirely inside the battery compartment. Notice that the vents are aligned with the holes and that the pump stick out about an inch into the battery compartment of the XPS. The battery is expandable cause it's pretty useless to me now.:$ http://www.patchpalace.com/Dell/xps water/IMAGE_00092.jpg Below is the my silent rig now cooled entirely by the externally "pushed-in" air (to the vents) and I guess also air that's seeping in from the battery compartment and water over the cpu. If it weren't for the two tubes sticking out (as you see in the pic) to meet the backup reservoir, no one would have noticed the mod. http://www.patchpalace.com/Dell/xps water/IMAGE_00093.jpg SOME TEST RESULTS: With all 3 fans on full speed plus cooler fans(i.e. radiator fan and 80mm fan underneath on slowest, quietest speed) and my idle temps are 48 for the CPU (don't forget that's a 3.4 Ghz P4 prescott - the hotter running cpu) and GPU at 52 degrees. The question is, can I benchmark or play games with all 3 stock fans off? My guess is that with my external fans on slowest speed, there won't be enough pressure to push air into the laptop at load conditions. I'm going to try loading this rig slightly with 3DMark06 with the 2 external fans turn on slow speed and leaving the 3 stock fans off. Here's an interesting comparison between 2 different test settings using 3DMark06. CONSTANTS: 39 processes and 40 services running, TEST SETTING A: With all 3 stock fans set on SLOW on all 4 levels in FANGUI (Games profile) and the pump on, the CPU and GPU max at 73 and 65 respectively, when I run 3DMark 06. At SETTING A the idle temp is 50 for CPU and 54 for GPU. (obtiained after 1/2 running) TEST SETTING B: With all 3 stock fans set on OFF on all 4 levels in FANGUI (Games profile) and ofcourse turned off using the BIOS CONTROL UTILITY and ONLY the pump running with both cooler fans on slowest speed, the CPU and GPU max at 73 and 54 respectively, when I run 3DMark 06. At SETTING B the idle temp is 54 for CPU and 55 for GPU. (obtiained after 1/2 running) . At SETTING B, it was nice to not have to hear those fans (running high). The Aquarius II pump and fan (for radiator) together make up for one of the quietest water cooling solutions (though not for hardcore ocing which is not really the objective of my mod). ANALYSIS and CONCLUSIONS: I'm don't mean to open up another discussion on the "push cold air in" verses "pull hot air out" topic, but with all 3 Dell fans turned OFF plus 39 processes and 40 services running, my CPU temps are stable at 54 and most of the time a degree or two below the GPU temp. I think the "push cold air in" is working for me, because I've provide sufficient surface area (via other mods within the laptop) to remove the heat from within the laptop before it reaches the fins. It's a know fact that the CPU in the XPS generally get about 5-10 degrees hotter then the GPU (which also gets hotter due to heat dispersed by the CPU. By watercooling the CPU I've isolated the CPUs heat from the GPU. I forgot to mention that I managed to mod (put holes in the cover to run tubes into and out of) the aluminum cover that originally covers on the cpu heatsink assembly. (So when I remove the keyboard the Waterblock is enclosed by that cover). The original intent of the cover was to create a passage for the air coming from the 3rd fan so that it's directed over the fins (that I replaced with the waterblock) just above the CPU's as it exits from the vent in the back of the XPS. The air passage is still intact, except now the air servers to cool the water coming into the waterblock (as the tube runs through the passage) as well as the waterblock itself. The point is that when I've got all 3 Dell fans off, there is almost no air felt blowing out from the back (of course). But the questions is where is the air that I'm blowing into the laptop gong? I do, however, feel more cooler air being blow out from the two top vents on the right and left sides of the keyboard (esp, when I remove the little plastic covers that easily slide out). Apparently, the air that's being push into the the laptop (via the external fans) is now entering into the cavity of the laptop and directly cooling the heatsink and any metal that's in direct contact with the CPU and GPU. I bet that a large part of the heat emitted by the CPU and GPU is now being take up by the cooler air that is going into the laptop even before it reaches the three fins (there is one GPU fin on the left and 2 CPU fins (one on each side)). Note, I've already increased the surface area for air cooing by including a finned custom copper GPU Heatsink (see my previous post for pics). Here's (what I think is) the key to the cooler GPU temps (on TEST SETTING B) and a reason to explain why my CPU temps is a degree lower then my GPU temp: With dell's fans off (TEST SETTING B), the air that I'm blowing into the laptop plus any air going in from the holes in the battery compartment can more easily find it's way into the laptop (rather then get caught by the Dell fans and exits while cooling the fins only). The Dell fans are counter-productive (at least in my case), as I am more interested in getting cooler air into the laptop then expelling hot air outside. Also, my guess is that running the Dell fans leads to more current and ultimately more heat. Boy, I must have done something right! :scratch: I'm now able to run an Dell XPS Gen1 3.4 Ghz Laptop with a 16 pipeline modded 9800 ATI will ALL 3 STOCK FANS COMPLETELY OFF. The two fans of the Cooling stand are blowing enough cool air to keep both the water and air inside the laptop cool enought to keep the CPUS Stable at 53 and GPU stable at 55! And both my external fans are running on the slowest (quietest modes). :headbang: ger21 04-23-2006, 10:12 PM Not too portable anymore though, is it. :) I was reading your post without looking at all the pics and wondering why so hot, but didn't realize it's a laptop. My dual core Athlon 4400, with a Thermaltake Blue Orb Heatsink and fan, idles at 35-36, and I've never seen it go over 50 with both cores running 100% for at least 30 minutes (3D rendering in Lightwave.) My 7800GT, on the other hand, is 49-50 at idle. I've never put much load on it to see how hot it gets. Kipper 08-28-2006, 05:54 PM My first attempt at watercooling went well. Although I lost interest in it fairly quickly it was a veritable speed boost. Image linking contravention coming up :) I made it so i'll link to it lol ....Heres a picture prior to soldering it all up http://lexacooling.free.fr/BDD/154.jpg btw i'm still using the same mobo but changed the gc. JFettig 08-28-2006, 06:16 PM Kipper, you should post that stuff on proforums waterblock construction, I bet a lot of guys over there would like your work. I was just digging through that folder and saw some interesting stuff. nice work. Jon |