I am new to this forum and would appreciate any information.
Has anyone had any experience with Torchmate and their standard gantry kit (4' X 8')?
After talking to Torchmate, it seems like an economical route to take.

I have an older torchmate that I had to do a lot of work to get working right. Make sure you get the windows based software and the new aluminum tracks if you buy one. The dos based controllers are hard to use and the steel tracks are very sloppy.

-Mark

It is window based. As for the rest of the machine it is a kit you the brackets and other parts with plans to build the gantry and table. thanks for the info

I have torchmate 2 and 3 machine for working,if you have any question or difficulty to tell me,perhaps I can solve with you.

reed

Been a long time lurker, finally decided to join recently.

I spent about 10 months mulling over various options and I must admit the Torchmate 8 x 4 flying gantry kit does seem the most appealing personally. Based on my fabrication skills being far superior to my technical ability.

Don't suppose I can find Torchmate at any of the european trade shows, long shot I know but had to ask.

Hey dfloch,

We've been running ours for about 3 years now. Great machine, here's a few pics of the machine and some of the parts. The only thing we would've done different is gone with the bigger hypertherm. We've been using the 1000 since we got the table; and it works great, but the 1250 or 1650 would give me faster cutting times and thicker capability. However the fine cutting tips for the 1000 have saved the day on some of the smaller pcs we do.

Mike

It depends on what you are planning on using it for. If you are going to be doing plate thicker than a 1/2 ", I would buy the kit and build the table...the aluminum extrusion is really for light work

I have seen full 5/8" sheets loaded on a TM3 4x8 finished table, with a partial water bed, and the table doesn't even flex. The aluminum is very strong and if the load is spread evenly, heavy plate is not an issue. We do recommend at least cross bracing the legs of the table, and people have added in additional cross members to make the table stronger.

I am sure you are right about that Mike. I have a torchmate 3 4X8...I built the table myself based on past expeirence of the "operator's" of the machine in my shop...Not everyone is really careful while loading plate. The bracing is not up too taking a bump from a heavy piece of plate. In the perfect world that would never happen...but you know how that goes. I also liked being able to weld on the supports for the table slats instead of bolting them on....anyways, it's just my opinion, nothing more. I am really pleased with my torchmate set-up. If anyone needs asistance with interfacing a Miller 1251 spectrum to the ATHC let me know.

We have several customers with the same concerns as you. Most end up putting in some kind of a set of material/forklift poles so that you can't run into the table. Even then it is not fool proof, but it may save an expensive mistake. The steel tables are much heavier and are a sturdy table, we always recommend customers who are cutting heavy plate that they purchase a kit table. There are obvious reasons for a kit table, people running things into them is one of them.

Hey Mike,
I bought a tm 1 5 x 10 kit from you folks a few months back. I'm just starting the table design. I am definately going water table. I need to know if you or any one else can shed some light on the do's and don'ts of watertable design and also any physics concerns that I may encounter. I will be using air to transfer water from a seperate tank beneath the water table its self. And if any one has any plans they want to throw at me they will be much appreciated !!! :cheers:
Thanks !
Ben88ner

A water table is a fairly simple design, usually consisting of a complete tub that has some kind of slat supports mounted inside it to the walls. The water doesn't have to be any deeper then 4", usually we recommend having the slats up off the bottom of the tub in order to allow water and air passage underneath the slats to keep the water level even. Keep in mind water is heavy, and on a 5'x10' table can amount up to a serious weight addition. Usually with the kit, you want to build the tub into the frame, adding some support feet down the water table to keep from bowing or bending.

A water table is a fairly simple design, usually consisting of a complete tub that has some kind of slat supports mounted inside it to the walls. The water doesn't have to be any deeper then 4", usually we recommend having the slats up off the bottom of the tub in order to allow water and air passage underneath the slats to keep the water level even. Keep in mind water is heavy, and on a 5'x10' table can amount up to a serious weight addition. Usually with the kit, you want to build the tub into the frame, adding some support feet down the water table to keep from bowing or bending.
Hey Mike, thanks for the reply. I have pretty much got the table designed and started. What I am mainly looking for guidence on is the air/water ports ( location and size ) to transfer water from the lower bladder to the cutting tabel via compressed air and then drained back down again. I have the volume of the table figured out at 187 gal. the table is 120 x 60 x 6 ". Which comes out to 1601lbs. of water in the bladder at a given time. Just figured that what I have read of the posts on here and the knowledge of the folks behind them , someone here is going to have a way better idea than I can come up with......:cheers:

Ben88ner