I started this project intending not to have a log, but I think the input from you guys and what can be learned by all of us; it would be beneficial to have a log.

What I am doing is building a small VMC-like CNC mill. I first got this idea when I first started working in a machine shop 2 years ago while examining the Haas vf-3 I was working on then later the Milltronics VMC I used a few times. Both of these machines used linear rails and slides much like THK HSR and SHS so I figured I would definitely use those.
In a Haas, the table sits on the bearing blocks and slides across the rails back and forth, the y-axis is mostly conventional to what you would think.
The Milltronics was kind of a combination of a Haas and what you typically see. The motor and ball screw was attached to the saddle along with the bearing blocks and the rails attached to the table along with the ball nut.

I choose to use the Milltronics VMC style mainly because there will be more table space and more travel per shorter rail and more room for clamping at the ends. The Milltronics VMC design also covers up almost all of the ball screw and all of the linear rails at all times and is easy to incorporate way wipers/covers.

While designing I decided I wanted to eliminate the huge saddle or the added on extensions by doing some sort of spinning nut design. The advantages would be less larger expensive parts, more compact machine, and all of the ball screw would be covered at all times.

Disadvantages would be: a more complex nut assembly, centrifugal force acting on the nut tubes causing improper ball rotation and possible rigidity issue(I think that wont be a problem) and slightly longer ball screw(another not so much of a problem).
This spinning nut would only be for the x-axis.

The plan:
Make a very fast, rigid, precise machine,
Travel will be about 16x9x16 x,y,z.
I will be looking for tool changer spindle, otherwise I have designed some tooling around the R8 taper.
I would love to have a tool changer, but that will only shoot the cost out the roof.
Spindle will be fully programmable, I was thinking about using a 1000w ac servo coupled with a step/dir drive to have full control over it.
Oh yeah, did I say speed? :D

The components I have:
3 400w AC servos,
4 22" SHS rails, 8 bearing blocks
2 18" HSR rails, 8 bearing blocks (extra set)(4 through hole, and 4 tapped on the side)

So far, that’s all I have. What I intend on doing at this point:

I intend on using precision rolled ball screws with .5" lead, rolled because of the price and availability issue. I intend on using the .5" lead with a 1:2 gear ratio so I only have max of 1500rpm at the screw(nut) From what I am told and seen, ball screws aren’t supposed to really even take that or much more?
The gearing could change depending on how much speed and torque I feel I need, With that setup I have up to 750IPM which is flat out ridiculous.

I will be making the majority of this machine out of Cast Iron for simple reasons of rigidity and vibration dampening. I have access to this through a friends dads work who gets a lot of cast iron plate.

Enough talk, here are some screenshots from SolidWorks:)
A few things like the saddle and spinning nut assembly will change a little, that’s more of a mock up.

I would appreciate some good input if you have.
Enjoy,

Jon

posted by jfettig
and all of the ball screw would be covered at all times.


This is true with both designs. The advantage of a spining nut possible puts the motor and belts/couplers under the table too.

Bridgeports never uncover the ballscrew on the x. just on the Y.

The way you cover the ballscrew under all sittuations is to have the Table larger than the travel (as on the x of a bridgport). So if you wanted to cover the y-axis you would just need enough room for movement and a larger table.

Good concept though and I think the spining nut could potentialy be a higher load machine and maybe a little more compact.

good luck.

I am very interested in seeing how this project goes. I have been thinking of a bridge design that would be 18X24X10-12.

Miljnor, I choose not to go with a regular manual mill style where the x motor is attached to the x-axis partially because I would be moving around with the machine more, I want this thing as stationary as possible(no wires will ever touch the table)

I considered a gantry(bridge) mill for quite a while, 2 main reasons I am not doing it:
1. Odly shaped big parts wont fit between the columns
2. I want a lot of z-axis travel, having the head hanging down not well supported could be an issue.


Jon

Hi Jon,

Your project sounds cool. I am doing something similar (details here http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13881)

Hope you have a good back and/or a crane - My machine is Taig/Mini Mill sized, built from solid cast iron and will weigh 90kg (200lbs) when complete - once final assembly is complete, it aint moving.

One thing I found very handy is access to a shop with a large surface grinder - seems a shame to go to all the trouble of using cast iron and not ground mating surfaces and rail mounting surfaces.

Good luck!

Cheers,

Pat

Gimbal, I have seen your setup, looks like a nice little mill. One thing I am doing with mine is making it semi-easy to take apart, I am putting my SHS bearings on the x-axis so I can unscrew the ballscrew and slide the table off, and remove the column or/and the head.

I do want to get access to a large grinder, I don't know if it will happen unless I pay someone to grind it.

Jon

Jon, your machine is looking great. What sort of parts do you want to cut with such a large Z axis?

The simplest tool changer design would be to have the tool holders mounted in an array on the work table. You could simply move the spindle over the toolholder and then drop down and pick it up. The advantage of this design is that you don't need to mess with rotary carousels, or any extra moving motors and assemblies. You would, of course, still have the auto-drawbar.

The downside is lost table space. Since you're in the design phase, you could simply design around it and extend your table by the width of one row of toolholders.

Most colleges have large surface grinders in their machine shop, and if you're a student there, you should have free access to it. Or, you may try to call up the machine shop you used to work for and see if they would do you a favor, perhaps a reduced price.

I want the large z-axis for such things as long tools, like a tapping head if rigid tapping isnt going yet, long drills, etc. I only make random stuff so something is sure to pop up where I need a lot of z-axis travel. Large fixtures are another thing, especially larger rotary tables with large work peices, those take up plenty of room.

The reason I wanted to go with a bridge mill style machine was mainly for the tool changer simplicity like you said, but it has its other downfalls that stops me.
The college here only has smaller surface grinders as far as I have seen, the shop I worked for didnt have one, This other shop I know of might have a large one, but gaining access or having them do it might be a problem.

Jon

one way on a bridge mill to get the z-axis more ridgity (one I haven't seen yet) is to make the whole Y-axis on linear guides. you would of course have a different set of headaches to deal with. like clearance of the whole y-axis to the part but just throwing Ideas out.

Now that think about what you said about the whole y-axis on guides, I have seen it, theres one in the gallery. quite a beefy router it is.

I made a small amount of progress.
All these designs are for if I choose to go this style of a machine, I am still considering a bridge mill for the sake of being able to add an ATC easily.

Heres a picture of the z-axis slide. Mounting of the head will be similar to how tormach, miljnor and a few others have done it.
I still need to put the screw holes in for the ball nut flange.

It is looking more like the column will be a 4x6" rectangular tube with a slot cut in the middle for the ballscrew/nut to go down inside(unless someone wants to cast me a oclumn). there will be rail mounts welded to it and machined flat, possibly ground if I get access to a surface grinder.
-edit-
-little update on hole placement-
the pic of what your possibly thinking of here:
http://www.cnczone.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/1551/cat/500/ppuser/7518
Enjoy my small amount of progress :)

Jon

I drew up a concept column, most dimentions are correct, a few obvious things arent, and the slot in there isnt definite.

Jon

I am considering making or buying a spindle, something in the bt30 variety. Theres a grinder here at school that I know can do the OD, but not sure about the ID.
BT30 is a good size, I dont have much info on it more than this:
http://www.desktopcnc.com/useful/taper_spec.htm
I can find tool holders on ebay for decently low prices.
Does anyone have any bt30 spindle drawings(I'll consider cat30 too, maybe cat40 if it comes down to it).

Does anyone have any suggestions? I will also be needing a little information about tool retention and stuff like that. I have started on a tool holder for r8 that uses an air coupler type retention system that I am making myself, haven't done much with it in a while and wont for a while but I have a general idea on that but I dont know exactly what the dimentions should be for everything.

Thanks,
Jon

More and more I think about it, I like the gantry beacuse of more travel, possibilty of tool changer, easier to make and probably cheaper. I still am conserned about rigidity more than anything. The table will move below it, Im sure I will go with 1-1.5" cast iron for the table, size is unknown right now, probably around 24x16"

Nothing here is definate, I have a 3" square tube in there for some reason, I was thinking about hollowing out those 1" blocks on the columns and the cross and put a pully system inside there and ballscrew inside the tube with a slot out the front.

let me know what you think.

Jon

You can build gantries with alot of ridgidity. But don't think they are cheaper for the same ridgidity, you will be disapointed.

Most of the homemade gantries that Ive seen for milling cant hold a candle to a traditional mill setup but that is do to the makers underestimationg the strength needed to keep the gantry from flexing.

The drawing you made is way stouter than most of the ones ive seen so you should be ok.

what are you going to use for slides?

I would not cut any side of a square tube; it will weaken it drastically
If you do; re-enforce it with plate or better still some other tube

I am still using the same THK slides I have in those other models, HSR15 and SHS15 rails and slides, none of that round cheaper slides. This thing is gonna be solid.

I am thinking about just getting a 12xlength bar for the bottom becuase I will just mount the bearing blocks on the bottom peice and the rails on the table and possibly the motor under the table with the ballscrew. I dont see any need for longer base I dont think.

Stevie, I was also thinking about using 2 of those tubes with a gap in the middle for the screw and motor or just the screw with the slot just in the front plate.

Thanks for the input,
Jon

Here is my Gantry
Now this is not for hammering 1/2" off steel off a block in a few seconds; this machine will most likely never cut steel; Aluminum yes
That Z slide is 1" thick cast tooling plate
http://www.modelbarrels.com/files/newmillz.jpg
The Sizes are 25" by 14" by 11"
THK RSR25mm rails for the Z and Y; X is going to be handled by 35mm SR style rails
The table is 1" thick Alum 26" by 16" it will be supported on 1" steel risers before attaching to the 35mm blocks
I have pre-loaded both the Y and Z slides to help with any chance of chatter

I have just scrapped the first design of the X axis; the new version will be 8" x 3" channel with 1" thick steel spacers connecting the 3" x 3" 1/4" wall extruded Alum which will carry the SR35's
Under that 5 cross braces of 3 x 3 will also connect the channel to the box sections
4" x 4' solid bar will be the main supports to the vertical columns; with 3/4" x 3 1/2" x 10" to the bars (these are already on the bottoms of the columns; which are 3 1/2 x 6 x 5/16" 6061 T6) these will be webbed with 3/16" Alum plate from the base to half way up the column; other webbing will also be added across the tops and the upper channel
Nothing will be welded

I am still using the same THK slides I have in those other models, HSR15 and SHS15 rails and slides


Stevie, I was also thinking about using 2 of those tubes with a gap in the middle for the screw and motor or just the screw with the slot just in the front plate.

Thanks for the input,
Jon

NP
Good idea of using 2 tubes

15mm sized rails are not going to hold up to a 3/4" cutter in Stainless Steel
I would not go below 35mm for that amount of force

I dont think Im gonna do the 3/4" end mill in stainless at all, I probably wont go that far.

35mm rails are huge, one member around here has some big gantry routers running 25mm rails with heads that are thousand pounds aprox. Im not sure where to go but I will likely use the 15mm rails and limit my capabilities.

Jon

you hit the nail on the head with "Routers"
Milling metal is not at all like routing wood

Take a look at something like a HASS 4 or 5

They use THK style rails for the X axis and Z
I know the Supermax VMC uses 35mm RSR for the Z axis

Stevie, I was basicly giving an example, theres over a thousand pounds on that one where my head will weigh 100lbs at absolute maximum. 3/4" in stainless is definately out of the picture now.

Jon

this is interesting to me... i would iamgine a big part of a VMC is the well designed controller software and post procesors, etc... things that make programming a complex multi-tool mill easy... any ideas what you will use? I gather EMC would be perfect for such a thing - it would just take quite a bit of work to get setup in the first place....

G' luck.

At this point I intend on using Mach4 unless someone comes up with something for the Rutex SPI interface. I intend to use my 300 or 400w AC brushless servos for these(probably 300 for the gantry)
I know mach3/4 can do most of what I want it to do as far as I know.

Jon

my small bed mill is running Mach3; with just 89oz/in steppers I'm getting 3000mm/min (steppers are reduced 2-1; I have 2 new 150oz/in coming very soon; that is for X and Y; Z is already running 250oz/in with a 3-1 reduction
My Gantry will be running 1600oz/in peak Emotec servos

The small mill will one day have my MCG 330oz/in peak 6000 rpm servos; still need to get step and direction cards to match my Copley 503 amps

I threw a table in there, the x-axis slides in and offset the columns, they need a little more offset or something needs to be done so that the spindle comes down right in the middle of the bearing blocks.

Jon

I am real interested in where you get the cast iron for the table.

I will most likely be getting it from a guy I know locally who works at Acupress(sp?) otherwize I had this other online place that I could order from if I can find the link, I will post it if I find it.

http://www.metalexpress.net/cgi-bin/index.pl?mod=catalog&ac=acDisProdList&material=Cast%20Iron&form=Flat&cat=gray%20class%2040&min=0&max=0&sid=a033456be4a3e15df5600336c767a05e
Here is some stuff, but not nearly as big as I will need for the table. worse may come to worse and I will have to change plans with that.

Jon

Have you seen the ToolCrafter grantry mill, this looks very similar to what you are trying to build?

http://www.cmscnc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=browse&id=20230&pageid=40

I was considering something similar and was planning on using a granite surface plate as a base with bonded in inserts for attaching the gantry and rails. You can pick up a 24" by 36" plate on ebay for around $100. For the gantry I was looking at using 0.5" wall tubing, welded together, normalized and then ground. I would then probably fill this with polymer concrete to add some vibration dampening.

I have seen those machines at one time a while ago, they look pretty good.

I like how they do the tool changer, I am considering something like that, definately a good idea on the flip cover. I plan on using 30 taper tooling if I can get ahold of or make a spindle. Theres a grinder here at college but I dont know if I can get access or do angles on it.

I started drawing up a smaller mill. If I had more space and bigger rails I would make a bigger machine. I'm sure it will sadisfy my needs anyway like this.


Jon

Several of the really high end CNC makers use granite as part of the structure of their machines. I read on one of their sites some astounding figure for how much better at dampening vibration granite is. I like this idea of using surplus granite surface plates to make sure some portion of the machine is absolutely flat and has the mass to make the machine really solid. That mass seems to be something missing a lot of the time.

I'm surprised we don't see more amateur-built CNC's incorporating granite.

Best,

BW

well granit is probably outside the fesability of most home shops.

I have a wire edm machine in the parkinglot (stored for an employee) that is 4'x4'x8" and the machine weighs in execess of 2 tons. Which for a garage is execessive

I don't know about you guys but I move things around in my garage on a whim, so everything has to be fairly mobile.

Even a bridgeport can be moved fairley easy with a large moving crowbar.

Granite is quite out of options, I can cut steel and cast iron but no way of cutting granite.

Im going to go with cold roll steel for lot of the construction actually, mainly because its much easier to get, I can weld stuff together and then machine it.


Jon

I agree, for a really big machine (Bridgeport sized), granite would be very difficult. However, most of these scratch-built CNC machines are pretty small, and even granite wouldn't make them prohibitively heavy. I'm thinking of machines along the size of the 5Bears mill, or even a Tormach-sized machine.

The granite could be used for a bed or column. For example, Lautard mentions using granite as a base to construct a homebrew surface grinder.

As to cutting granite, I know more people who can cut rock with precision than metal in their home shops (they make jewelry as a hobby). The blades needed to cut rock are readily available, or there are granite shops in every town who can use their kitchen counter cutting machinery to slice your granite to size. The same shops can drill any holes needed to mount linear rails or whatever to the granite.

The difficult issue is the precision surface. Any design needs to use an existing surface plate and determine how to keep it's surface true and usable.

Heres a quote I got for a smaller table than the origional(for mill style) in granite.
a magnitude of 10 higher than I was looking at in cast iron:)


Jon

for 2g's i' want it engraved so that it could multitask, maybe it wouldn't need to though, paying 2 grand for rock would probably kill me anyway.

at the risk of sounding like a broken recored....... my (yet to be built) heavy duty mini mill ......welded structure heavy walled stell shapes, mild steel strips welded where the rails go, welded structure normalized, filled with polymer & crushed granite, mild stell strips scraped into same plane.

Or cheap surface plate from eBay ($100), drill holes with masonary bit and bond in stepped inserts with epoxy.

i like the way you think Pstockley! :D

pstockley has the right idea. something like this might be perfect for the mill im building: http://cgi.ebay.com/18-x-24-GRADE-A-BLACK-GRANITE-SURFACE-PLATE-2-LEDGE_W0QQitemZ3852374064QQcategoryZ25295QQcmdZViewItem

Im going to go with cold roll steel for lot of the construction actually, mainly because its much easier to get, I can weld stuff together and then machine it.


Jon

You do know cold rolled steel is not the best to use for construction; if you remove the skin from 1 side only it will go like crazy
Hot rolled goes a tiny bit; but cold rolled will banana on you
I'm assuming you know what "goes" means

yeah but its all going to do the banana after welding right? I had some parts normalized a couple weeks ago, stuff that was machined all over so had no/negligible rolling stress and then welded and I couldn't believe how much it moved after normalizing, huge. based on my experience, I can't imagine expecting precision performance from a welded fabrication without somehow normalizing or at least stress relieving - it keep moving forever otherwise

Stevie, yeah thats the thing Im worried about and dont really know what I want to do about it. Cast iron will be expencive because casting will cost a lot or just cast iron bar will cost a lot. so by steel, It'll likely be hot roll unless I find something else I want to make it out of.... maybe wood, that dampens vibrations well;)


Jon

maybe now you see why I build from Aluminium

Yes, I do see why you build from aluminum, the only problem with building from aluminum is making it rigid enough to cut steel and all.

Its sounding more and more like this project might need to be put on hold for a while. I'll probably just grab an x3 in the meantime if I even get to doing that.


Jon

it can be strong enough if designed right; there is thick walled extrusions out there

what do you suggest for extrusions? im looking at the ones on ebay, something like a 4080 sized, for my x axis. im also considering using a granite surface plate as a base.

If you are using extrusions or steel tube for that matter, I would suggest filling them with crushed granite mixed with epoxy. I had considered polymer concrete but it isn't very stable. Plus, the the epoxy granite matrix will not only add good damping but increase the strength of the tube as well.

The area that you need to pay special attention to is how the tube is mounted to the base plate. Somehow you need to attach a plate to the tube so that it can be bolted down. Overall rigidity will depend on how well you design the joining method between the tube, the mounting plate and the base plate. This is one area were welding is nice. Another option is to bolt and bond a machined plate to the tubing. Ideally, the base plate should insert into the tube at least the major width of the tube.

Update: FYI, I have rough plans for a small heavy duty mill. My column is about 10" by 8" minimum 1/2" wall steel. The base is 1" thick plate welded to the bottom of column and gussets added on the outside. Two 2" by 1" thick plates are welded to the column to mount the linear rails. The column is then filled with granite/epoxy after rough machining and normalizing. Finally, the ways for the guides and the base will be scraped true.

Ok, I decided to do a little experiment to determine how feasible a granite base would be. I drilled a 8mm hole in the bottom of a small surface plate I had. Using a masonary bit, plenty of water and 450rpm, it cut like butter! much easier than steel.

http://www.cnczone.com/gallery/data/500/medium/GraniteTest.jpg

So I can see three possible plans:

a) Just drill all the way through the surface plate and counter bore the bottom side to take a washer and nut.

b) Drill all the way through say 1/2" then drill the bottom about 3/4" deep with say a 5/8 or 3/4 bit. Turn up a stepped insert from steel. Make the top 3/4" a nice light interference fit. The bottom would be a loose fit. Then apply epoxy and tap it into the hole from the backside. Use a nut and washer from the top side to snug it up while the epoxy dries.

c) A slight variation on b would be to glue the insert in before drilling and tapping. This would probably allow you to get more accurate alignment which would be required for the rails.

So it looks like a go to me! By the way, there is another place on ebay that sells 24" by 18" by 3" surface plates without the ledge. I'll see if I can find the store again.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/searchresults.aspx?q=granite&submit.x=0&submit.y=0
http://www.grizzly.com/products/G9654
Probably nearly as cheap as you'll find.

One thing I want to see is milling granite, i think i would consider using it for a few of the parts if I could mill it.
From what I have been told, high rpm, low feed rate and lots of coolant.
I wonder if HSS drills will work in this stuff?

Jon

that's cool, I guess the next experiment is to try carbide endmilling into it. In all likelihood these are composite granite plates which are also readily available from KBC amongst others

granite/polymer is good and is probably how I’d go because of the dampening effect of the granite, but I think you are incorrect about polymer concrete - its what a lot of high end machine tool makers use. what isn't stable is regular concrete which will move for ages as it fully cures

http://www.coldspringgranite.com/diamond/plated5.html
http://www.granitecitytool.com/fabrication.cfm

So it seems like inexpensive granite surface plates could make for an ideal base on which to mount linear bearings for the Y-axis at the bottom of the machine. I would think we could also stand one up on end, taking care it is precisely perpendicular to the base plate and wind up with a nice place to mount the Z-axis rails. You're going to want some serious structure holding those two in place and in alignment, so someone should think about how that would work. I like the huge aluminum I-Beams I see for Stevie's gantry mill as possible components for that job.

That still leaves a cast iron table and X-axis railing system, but I would think this approach adds considerable rigidity and precision to the machine without adding too much cost at all. I would not think we want these heavy granite pieces moving under CNC control, but maybe someone disagrees and would use a third surface plate for the table.

Someone want to do some 3D rendering of how all this fits together? I'm still learning Rhino and running out of my 25 trial saves or I'd give it a go!

Best,


BW

You would likely need granite peices that are ground square and parallel for most peices, I know the plate I got from grizzly isnt finished at all on the bottom and is kind of rough.

Jon

I have also toyed with using the slate plates they use in pool tables...they come in 3 matches pieces, about 3 feet by 2 feet by 1 inch thick, and sometimes one will get broken in shipping and the pool table dealers toss the other 2. I got a couple for free, but never got around to doing anything with them. Actually, being not very thick they are probably not suitable for the use in this thread, but maybe for a gantry base...

isn't slate realy fragile??

With all of the granite machine base assemblies that I have designed for precision machines, they have all had the squareness ground into them. This does however not mean that it's impossible to do this inexpensively. Just work with the flat surfaces that you have. If you have access to a large cast iron square, it would be used to clamp one plate to another, and the joint between the two could be "grouted" with epoxy. I am assuming that you are thinking of making a split axis gantry configuration like the one in this picture:
http://www.rockofages.com/precision/index.html
and these products:
http://www.doverinstrument.com/vvLinearProds1.html

Another way to do this is to have 3 jacking screws, that would allow you to get the top granite perpindicular to the lower granite, then grout the joint. Also, you may be able to purchase smaller blocks to use as risers between the top axis and the bottom axis.

One more thing to keep in mind: The precision level of granite is measured in it's "natural state", sitting on the "aires points". These points are 1/5 of the length in from each end, with two on one end and one at the other. The end with one, is obviously centered, while the end with two, the supports are at 1/5 of the width in from the edges.

Also, There are many different types of granite. The material properties vary greatly depending on where the granite is from. The best types for machines of this type is Zimbabwe Black, Black Impala granite, or American black granite. Barre grey is far less stiff then these other varieties.

Drilling granite is far simpler than trying to drill composite granite. When drilling natural granite, the makeup is consistent. When drilling composite, you will transition from rocks to glue to quartz particles, and your drill will tend to wander to the easier to drill softer material.

Neatman

One more website of interest on this topic is:
http://www.tru-stone.com/index.asp

NEATman

2400 views and like over 50 replies; and other than a few renders i see nothing coming from this thread
If this is going to happen; I'd like to see something actually being built; if not this thread needs to be moved to some wish list forum

Jon
You are young (if your Bio is correct) and i do make allowances for that; but saying HSS might drill Granite is showing me you do not have a good experiance background for what you propose; don't get me wrong; posting and asking for help is great and I do try to pass along my experiances gained by 35yrs in the tool and diemaking trade; but sometimes i look and wonder

Yes, young, I didnt say it will, I was wondering if it would, I havent built anythign because Im currently a whole state away from home at college, I am pretty sure I stated earlier that it was gonna be a long term project, move me to the wish list.
What I do have for this project are the linear rails and servos. If I had some sort of income right now or even time to think about getting a job I might be slowly purchasing some parts. I did purchase one part for the pannel, a 11" lcd but like I said before, a long term project.
Another dependent factor is place of future employment. If I work in an office, and no access to larger machines, that will introduce a problem with being able to machine all these things myself.

If you dont feel like visiting this thread for a while, that is ok, there wont be much updated for a while other than questions that I cannot find in other places.

Thanks for the input,
Jon

I just keep getting emails that there has been a reply; so I look to see if something has been started
I guess once I start to make something I just go for it untill it's done; or i get side tracked with something more important

I just keep getting emails that there has been a reply; so I look to see if something has been started
I guess once I start to make something I just go for it untill it's done; or i get side tracked with something more important

Instead of chastising the poster, you can go to the top of the thread and at the right it will say "Thread Tools". Click on that drop-down, then click "Unsubscribe". Problem solved.

Jfettig and NEATman - those are some awesome machine in those links you posted. I didn't even know they did that.

the forum is called project log
Not lets discuss everything I can't do

Wow, the Grinch that stole the Project Log!

Keep going Jon, I'm enjoying it. Projects include a design phase as well as a build phase. Getting the design right is most of it. Not every log gets started when the job is nearly done.

Hopefully those that find it too annoying can find something else to go look at.

Best,

BW

Jon,

I understand some of Steve's frustration with the delay in starting to build, but I also agree with Bob. If you never succeed in building it you will have given us all a lot to think about as we contemplate things that we would love to build. I love the stuff that Steve has built or is building, I wish that I had the time, resources and skill to accomplish some of those projects. The fact that some of your ideas may not actually work out should not stop you from dreaming. A friend once told me that that wasn't a failure it was just a part of the discovery process.

Good luck,
Alan

I will continue to post my ideas and drawings untill I get somewhere where I either hit a dead end or get something that I am ready to build. I have no means of building anything in a little 1 bedroom apparptment 200 miles away from my shop. If you dont want to see what I havent built, thats fine. If noone wanted to see what I have been designing/thinking about I would stop posting. This place isnt all about machines that are built, its about exchange of ideas and information.

One last time, I dont plan on using granite at all, It'll be at least 1 or 2 years untill I get something going depending on the jobs I end up with for the summers. I dont intend on going back to be a 'part changer' + a little more otherwize I could do it all this up comming summer. I am nearing a point where I can secure an intern/coop in the Mechanical Engineering field and that typically will be office type work.

So if you come into this thread expecting to see some material items other than maybe a picture of a servo or LM rails and whatnot, you'll be dissappointed for a while.

Its not only that I am so far away from a shop, I have access to a shop but I dont have funds, everything I have is going into living and college right now.


Now that the explanation is done, its friday night and Im gonna get out of here!


Enjoy your nights guys

Jon

its friday night and Im gonna get out of here!

Now we see why he has no funds :D

Just kidding Jon, I have enjoyed this thread, have read every post and intend to continue.

Ken

When I was in college, I remember thinking that a person who could afford to eat at burger king any time they want was rich! (and that was when the whopper was 99 cents!). Sometimes I'd go to burger king with my college buddies and just end up watching them eat and keeping them company. Lean times.

I can afford my CNC hobby now, but I haven't forgotten how it feels to be scraping together the change from my couch!

Jon, I completely agree with those encouraging you to continue to dream, post and do a bit of brainstorming. If you don't have the money to buy parts, what else can you do? You make sketches, toss around ideas and change your design (and maybe design goals) as you start to understand what has worked for others and what hasn't. When you finally have the cash to build, you're going to be so much the wiser for it.

And don't forget, this is your thread. Take it whatever direction you want. I think the bulk of the CNC community is happy to offer their experiences and suggestions, no matter if you're almost done building or not started yet.

Now I can understand why is stevie, stevie 35 years experience and you'd think he'd be humble, modest at best. Jon keep up the good work RESEARCHING, for those annoyed. You'll come out on top, there are others with similar machining proficiency who are KIND enough to read your threads and see you through it...good luck. What you are asking and sharing here may still help a few people, specially those who want to build their own machine for the first time maybe you'll share something or ask something some of us missed...so at this point I bid you good luck and thanks you do a good service to us all...if not kicking some us in the a$$, having us remember where and how we all started.

[QUOTE=praetor]Now I can understand why is stevie, stevie 35 years experience and you'd think he'd be humble, modest at best.QUOTE]

Why should I be humble and modest?
I post to show what can be done with basically scrap; that is the premise of all my builds; build cheap; and show how to do it; should i stop? I'm not here to waste my time; but to pass along what I know; but if that means I should be "Mr Nice Guy" all the time then I'll go else where
I'm a manager of a shop; what; you think I should praise people for wasting time
I was not annoyed untill Javadog posted; just wondering where all this was going

Now I'll once again unsubscribe like the other 4 times I've done it

Far be it from me, or anyone else for that matter, to disrespect someone who has a longstanding skill set which should be taught lest it 'd be lost to time. In my culture, credentials like that earn you the name Maestro, depending on what culture you translate that from, roughly,...Teacher but with an attitude on this site, akin to firing an employee, one tends to lose sight that this is not a job but a recreational share/info site...it is what it is...a forum. I see what jfettig has achieved, what with the content of his website and his ongoing research log and think he has grabbed the stone from the teachers hand, but hasn't been casted out into the cold. On the flip side one is forced to remember, that there are people out there who want to carry out their own american dream of doing away with the "boss". Leave work at work, and only play at home. Goodluck and Godspeed Jfettig :cheers: , stevie hope you find HAPPINESS :) in your future eandevors, sounds corny but man you need to get the edge off. I don't mean any disrespect to any and all parties mentioned above...but, as in all red blooded, blue collar Americans, I don't like when an underdog is chided and given the wrong end of the stick for all the wrong reasons...personal grudges.

jon
remember what you've done in the past, you inspired me to get up and build something
sometimes all you have is aspirations times get hard ,keep posting and i'll keep
reading .
stevie ...encourage don't discourage
mike.
jon just realised you have the honour of my 100th post.