I am thinking of buying a few laser engravers so as I can get the lowest price on one for myself. I do not want to spend $10,000 on one, which is the lowest I have seen so far. Please let me know if anyone has an intrest in buying one aswell. I posted an ad in the classified section with pictures. I hope this type of post is okay to write! I am hoping to be able to get the cost of the unit to around $3,000. Please let me know if I woudl be able to sell the extras I would be buying. please email me directly dixonjk@earthlink.net

laser

What is able to do this laser engraver? As I am from Romania, what would be the additional cost of shipping it to me? I would like to buy one, but for this I must borrow money and I need to know exactly what it means from cost point of view. Actually, I would like to start (finally) a small business based on my CNC knowledge got here and by building three machines (two MDF and one AL). The machines I do not think can sustain even a small business, but a laser could be a start....I hope...

You like the laser the machine?

I purchased one of these laser engravers. For the price, it is hard to beat.

There is one big problem with the one that I purchased, however.

The included software really only supports pixel based graphics, as in .bmp and .jpg

The software is easy to use and easy to configure. I took my time setting it up to be sure that I was doing everything correctly, but probably could have been cutting and engraving in less than an hour.

The software is for both designing what you want to engrave AND for controlling the engraver. Now like I said, it is easy to use. But, it doesn't support vector based files directly. It would be nice to "plot" (I mean engrave or cut) straight from a CAD program. But so far, that just isn't working.

According to the Users Manual, there are 4 output modes

1) Output from their software to the machine

2) Install a printer driver and print to the device from windows applications
They recommend NEC p2200 driver...

3) Output from their software to a .plt file

4) Print from DOS

---

Well, options 1 and 3 work fine. The .plt file appears to be pretty standard hp-gl.

However, I have not been able to get options 2 and 4 to work. I wrote an email to the seller, but was told that option 2 doesn't work. I wrote an email to the manufacturer and was told that I could buy new software that would "solve my problems."

I will let people know if the seller or manufacturer offer any assistance. I would like to think that since it is in the manual, that I will be lead to a solution.

For what it is worth, this laser is a LOT of fun to play with. I probably won't use it much as an engraver, but mostly as a cutter. But, watching it engrave is very satisfying.

I really hope that I can figure out how to use it with IntelliCAD. If I can, then I would give this small engraver rather high marks.

Steve

Actually, while I am here, I'll ask the question, but post a similar one in plotters...

This laser appears to be basically an hpgl plotter, but with a laser rather than a pen. I have played with numerous hpgl drivers, but none seem to make this thing go.

At first, I was getting various errors (no paper, device not ready...)

Thanks to some help, I made a parallel cable with pins 11 and 12 tied to ground via 1k resistors and with pin 15 disconnected entirely.

This improved the situation, as I was now not getting error messages. But the drivers still won't control the "plotter" - i mean laser engraver.

Any advice on how to establish control of this thing?

It would be nice to keep it as an hpgl plotter, as the PU and PD commands turn the laser off and on.

Thanks

Steve

Is hooking up a scope and monitoring what is going on when it is "printing" from its proprietary software as possibility? Do some reverse engineering.

Or:

I would think that, depending on steppers or servos, that you could replace the proprietary drivers with something from Gecko and a breakout board - then drive with Mach3? Maybe? Not sure if Mach3 can turn-on/off a laser, plus you have to adjust power levels too, right? Might want to see what the homebrew laser guys use to drive their machines...

I do have a "spare" 3 axis card laying around...X Y and laser power adjust. Laser On/Off could be one of the other commands.

This is a possibility and a likelihood that I will have to go this direction.

But for the fun of it, I would like to take this as far as I can with its current board.

How can I learn more about monitoring what is going on? Is there any software that can monitor/track/record what is going on in the par port?

How else does one monitor what is going on?

No need for a tutorial, but a point in the correct direction.

Thanks

Hi , i searched a bit in the internet and found some parallel port monitoring software

try SysInternals PortMon at www.sysinternals.com/utilities/portmon.html

or checkout www.geekhideout.com

By the way , what is the manufacturer of those laser machines in pictures?
I work on a GCC Mercury LaserPro for raster engraving and cutting mainly acrylics, wood and engraving glass.

I may solve you any about this machine difficulty and the question

I am this machine manufacturer,Very many people sell the old machine in the proxy,But he already eliminated in Asia and China,Because I designed have made the new machine

The software may support PLT,DXF,BMP,JPG...
Software support color,Line,Time,Energy control
Supports CAD2002-2006,Output,Similar also has POTOSHOP,CORELDRAW
Uses new DSP the chip

The mechanical drive components also have the improvement

HKXY

Hi Pedro,

Thanks for the links. I should have some time tomorrow to continue to work on this.

The manufacturer:
Best I can tell, I believe it was made by
Jinan Hengxing Computer Equipment Manufacturing Co., Ltd.

http://www.hxlaser.com/en/index.htm
the "Rabbit HX-40A"
http://www.hxlaser.com/en/products/chapter.htm

though I purchased mine thru:
http://www.iehk.net/Products/IE300.html

----

The GCC Mercury LaserPro looks like a VERY nice machine. Software really does make a big difference...

Thanks again

Steve

The GCC machine is the very good machine, but the price is high

HX-40A is the popular machine, the price is low, but needs you to have the appropriate preparation.
Asked you know HX-40A the price?

Yes, it is a more expensive machine, not because of the software :
-working area 635mm x 458mm
-rotary option
-dual head option

The best of this machine is the auto-focusing system and you may open the front & back door to engrave long pieces as well it has internal memory to store up to 100 cutting/engraving files.

Yet it is far more expensive

I may make any size the laser to cut the machine
Size scope: 10-2400 millimeter
Power: 15-200W
Contains the complete software,Air system,Laser,Optics lens,Controls the electrical machinery...

He makes in China,The price is low

If you need,May tell yours request I,Perhaps I can give you the good price

Hey Steve,
I see you purchased through Ink Express. How was the buying experience. I have been looking at the larger laser but had my reservations because they are overseas and I would have no recourse if something went wrong. How about freight and customs?

Hey txcowdog,

The Ink Express buying experience... Overall, the buying experience was more positive than negative. But it wasn't perfect. At this point, I am still glad that I bought it.

Before I bought mine, I did download the manual. According to the manual, it could do what I wanted and needed it to do. I was fairly sold.

I would advise you to try to find the manual for the model in which you are interested in the "downlord" section of their website. If there are any features you see that are essential to you, be sure to ask them BEFORE you buy if that feature is really supported.

In my case, the manual indicates that the engraver should work as a stand alone plotter. But, that feature isn't actually supported. So, I must use their software to design and to control the machine.

Payment was wierd. They accept wire transfer or xcoin. I decided on xcoin. So, I set up a separate bank account and deposited the exact amount that the machine would cost. Then I set up an xcoin account. But xcoin has limits on the amount you can transfer from an "unverified" account and it takes awhile to verify an account. (Verification required faxing proof of identity to a number in Canada which gets forwarded to xcoin's headquarters in China or HongKong - then waiting for them to decide whether to verify your account - which could take DAYS) It was faster to go back to the bank and make more accounts and set up the xcoin account to pull from multiple bank accounts.

Shortly after the money was sent, I got a receipt from Ink Express and it didn't take all that long (2 weeks +/-) to get to Los Angeles. But it ended up in customs for a couple more weeks.

I am not sure if mine got damaged in shipping or if the guys in customs were less than subtle in their searching, but the power supply was gutted and the styrofoam had been rather smashed and lots of pieces of foam were strewn thru the machine.

But the power supply was easily fixed and the foam vacuumed out.

When I went to run it for the first time, the laser head went to the homing position, but it didn't want to stop. You know the sound, like when a flatbed scanner wants to keep going...turns out that the limit switch is a proximity sensor, but the metal tab had bent. I readjusted the tab and turned it back on and it went home without a hitch.

Also, my water filter unit was faulty, but that is just a cheap aquarium pump. Got another for about $10. That wasn't made by them, so I can't really fault them too much (only a little)

Anyway, it has been working fine since then.

But I have had issue with their software, since the software that comes with my machine only supports pixel based graphics (bmp and jpg.) It does work. And it is easy. But, I was really looking forward to using it to cut out CAD files. Their "support" has been less than stellar, as in (and I am paraphrasing) "Yes, you are right. The option you want doesn't work"

Would I buy another from them? Well, it seems the price for the one I got may be cheaper at:
http://www.hxlaser.com/en/index.htm

Another to consider is:
http://www.chinaoptronics.com/engraver.htm

Knowing that support from overseas is limited, you might consider going the cheapest route.

It is hard for me to give a glowing recommendation, but for the money...it really is a fun toy. If you feel reasonably certain that the model you want really can do what you want and need it to do, then it could be a great tool and tremendous value.

If I can hack their software and make it "plot" CAD files, then I would say it was a great investment. For now, I wish their were more support and I wish they felt compelled to make their device perform like in the manual...

If I have any advice...
I would send email to all three and see who sends email back to you.
Ask some pointed and direct questions about functionality and see which company is best able to aswer your questions.

Most of all, I wish you luck.

For me, so far, no regrets. Sorting it out is the kind of challenge I like.

As always, caveat emptor

I thought you lack the understanding regarding China's product,Because the Chinese industry is very centralized,Produces one kind of product the crowd to like concentrating in an area,For instance this small laser machine,His centralized area in north,In order to reduce the cost to produce the merchant to need the batch the purchase,Specially outer covering and plate work,But can have the massive factories in the short time also to produce the same product,Like this everybody outward appearance has been similar,But internal structure and software,The performance is very big not same,But American and Europe's people all do not understand this

I designed the production laser in China to cut the machine already very many years,If you have the interest to the Chinese product,I may provide the consultation for you,

It is likely to be true that people outside of China do not understand how things are made there. I know I don't.

I do know that there are several vendors selling laser engravers that look very much the same and are sold as having much the same features.

I would say that the limited amount of information makes it dificult to tell the difference.

--

I am not sure I understand the consultation that you provide?

Can you tell me how the hardware works?
What data is it expecting?
Can the InkExpress IE300 operate with HP-GL instructions?
Must I use the MoshiSoft software?
Is there other software available that will support DXF and DWG without conversion?

Mine looks like the one in the attached photo. I can also take pictures of the control board if that helps.

Thank you

Hi I was wondering if anyone could look at the following thread and give me some advice:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20332

....sorry for hyjacking this one! ;)

sidi_steve,

Do you mind telling us what you paid for the machine?

Thanks,
Paul

I paid the posted rate:
http://www.iehk.net/Products/IE300.html
$1199 + $250 shipping

After I bought it, I got a quote for less from:
http://www.hxlaser.com/en/products/chapter.htm

And supposedly, the software at HX does support vector AND raster images...

Sidi_steve:
Your this machine,He uses the software and the PCNC controller and the computer and the WIN software work,The old machine uses HPLI,PLT,Now has the new machine,Uses DXF,PLT,BMP,JPG,Even more the senior software may in CAD,POTOSHOP,In CORELWAR works directly,Also may differentiate the color the use

Is not,Your software is specificEach producer's software name all is different,But it is a pity,They have established the different controller,Therefore the software cannot use together,This is possibly the commercial interest consideration,In this price machine,The software all is the difference not big,Because this machine is designed the manufacture circle the seal,Therefore this is his key point,If you need to make other artwares,Advertisement advertisement POP...,Then you need the senior machine,Although his price is not very high
If this small machine price is USD900,Then the 600*900 millimeter laser possible price is USD5000-8500,But a 1200*800 millimeter machine is possibly USD6500-13000,And this reference price contains you to be able imagine possessing to cut the machine about the laser the components and the software,Certainly each country can some differencesSpecially software language and price,As well as customs' outer covering packing

Certainly these machines sold to outside China the local price to be able to be higher than this locality,The reason is the exportation product has the special cost, They will not like for these small prices machines providing later to serve,I in mine company,Is attempting to change this condition,Provides the service for mine customer,Possibly is the network,Returns to the repair,Or goes to your depot level maintenance,Certainly in permission scope,And I am this goal diligently,Once attempted seeks the proxy sale and the service means,But it is a pity I not found the appropriate agent in US and Europe


Diarmaid:
You saw comes from China's middle to this machine,Wuhan Hubei,There is center laser 1.th several areas of concentration
This machine is used for to make the handicraft
Regretted,I cannot understand you % digital meaning

If you have the question,Welcome to inquire me











China's laser sale merchants,Factory,Now all busy deals with the product order the time pressure,Actually I am the hope provide us to the world the outstanding machine,Possibly lacks in the world advertisements propaganda and the introduction,I also hoped can sell this machine to world each country,Our product superiority is,The product quality is good,The price is low,Although the present also has the service and the time question,But this machine so long as cannot have the question according to the correct operating procedure work,Moreover I instruct my customer operator's correct method of work,I hoped can have many friends to act sells my machine,With purchases my machineAnd has more new products to produce by the unceasing design.

If you have about the Chinese product question need to consult,I can answer you with every effort,But my English too bad,Or you attempt yours question narration are more detailed,Perhaps I may understand

hkxy....are you in Hong Kong?

I live in Beijing

Moreover I have the manufacture sale service in QINGDAO SHANGHAI BEIJINGMainly is the manufacture sells LASER to cut machine,3AXIS-CNC,DIY-CNC.

Moreover I also want to act sell come from American and Europe's CNC product,If you have the cargo which may sell,Also may ask me to sell in China,For example CNC controller,Electrical machinery,CNC components....

Hi Steve,

Earlier you said the machine would work from a .PLT file, is that correct?

Have you tried configuring your HPGL driver to print to a file?

Then you would hopefully be able to plot from CAD to file, then dump the file to the laser.


- Joel -

Joel -

I wish it would work from a .PLT

There are 2 output options:
1)The software can output directly to the machine
2) The software can output to a .PLT file

I have tried many, many ways to plot one of those files, but no dice. The file is standard HP-GL (very simple X and Y coord data and pen up + pen down).

But apparently the device itself does not run directly on hpgl.

So, what I am hoping to do is redirect the output from the port to a file. Then I can read the file and determine what it is that the device is expecting...

Steve

.

I am looking for a machine to cut balsa and ply wood as well as etch various products... I hav looked at Epilog but they are dear...

What do you sell hkxy???

I sell the machine which the laser cuts,Cuts the size is the 1200*800 millimeter,
Also may defer to you to request to make 3,000 millimeter below the laser to cut the machine,He may relaxed cut balsa,I have the experience,Because I use this machine building model airplane

I might be in for one of these, if the price is right and the software is acceptable.

price and the software is acceptable

hey has anyone used these machines to engrave on chrome or polished aluminum?

If so what steps do you have to do the make it work? ie cover with paper, lamp black or what not.

How many watts would you need to cut tin foil type thickness in metal? (don't answer unless you done this, as I realy don't need speculation)

Also Sid_steve when you engraved the mirror/glass for Dairmaid did you run the laser over the whole surface or just on the features?

if you ran it over the whole features, why? and will it let you just engrave on the image itself?

edit: i looked at the image more thuroughly and I see that it was run as a negative image. Can you run it as a positve image where just the bird and leaves are engraved?

.

Hey Miljnor -

In this case, the laser engraved where the image was light in color and it did not engrave where the image was dark. There is a choice. There are 2 check boxes (click on one and the other goes unchecked) One check box is for "cave" and one is for "convex"

Here is what the manual says:
Convex/Cave: Two kinds of mode of the seal, choose the mode needed;

I forget which option I chose, but one engraves the black part of the image and the other choice engraves the white part of an image.

I will test on alum foil later

steve

I was reading an artical on focal length and watts vs focal point size and focal length, It said you need a certain power level to burn through certain materials.

So a XX watt laser is needed to burn thru X material at XXX focal point size (something about engergy density). So I think a 40watt laser will never be able to get to this energy density, because you can't focus the beem tight enough, due to Wavelength of a C02 laser.

I am more interested now in if it will engrave a chrome part without a laser marking compond (acts similarly to toner from a laser jet but wont come off of metal surface).

Can the engrave a cylindrical object, such as a glass, or is it limited to flat plates?

Hi Scott,

I suppose the best answer is that it is limited to flat surfaces. Likely, that is the only answer.

But I have been giving the cylinder engraving idea some thought.

Now the rest of what I am going to say is just putting out an idea, but one I am not about to embark on right now nor is this any kind of recommendation.

-----The following is just an idea! Be careful! High Voltage! Laser beams! Yeah yeah--


Basically, this thing consists of 2 motors and a laser. The two motors control X and Y. Well, if you were to engrave on a cylinder, all you would need is 2 motors, right? This will depend on the orientation, but one motor could control the rotation of a cylinder around the Y axis while the other controls Y. If you were to find another stepper motor that was wired the same as the existing X motor, then you could simply unplug the existing X and plug in this other motor and you could use that for your rotation.

One of the motors is attached to the board via thin ribbon cable (which also carried the limit/home lines) but the other motor has 4 wires and is plugged in to the board via a connector. It would be easy enough to pull that connector and plug in a different motor.

Making something to actually rotate your cylinder would be easy enough. This would be nearly the same as the 4th axis for an XYZ cnc machine and plans for a 4th axis are just a google away.

Since you would have no planar X control while the rotary device was plugged in, you would have to manually position the X position. (You may even have to manually move the X position into and then away from the home position during the init phase so that the home switch gets toggled)

The next challenge would come when trying to design the image you want to engrave. The engraver can only be run with their software, which of course is expecting you to engrave upon an XY plane. But, if you plan ahead and can calculate the circumference of your cylinder, then you could design something that would fit nicely on a cylinder.

I can't remember the focal length of the focusing lens, but it is fixed and it is designed to move about in XY planar fashion of the engraving surface. Let's say for this discussion that the fixed distance the lens is above the surface is 3". As long as the surface of the cylinder is that same 3" distance away from the laser head, then it should engrave well.

So, could you do it? Yeah, I think it could be done. Is this a supported "off the shelf" feature? Nope. And of course, your results could be either glorious or disastrous, depending on your skill (and luck) with electronics and the rest of it. Like I said, it's just food for thought.

It seems that a rotary table is what is needed and probably wouldn't be feasible given the space constraints in the case. See to be quite a limiting factor though.

Given your current machine and the limitations that you have would you be able to recommend any others?

I know that I would like more power though for a deeper etching in some materiels.

Please describe the problems again with glass. Was it tempered? Did you pulse it to control heat, can you even do that?
Thanks,
Scott

Hi Scott,

I haven't spent too much time trying to engrave, so I may not know all the options. But it certainly doesn't appear that there are any choices for pulse settings.

The glass was whatever came from a broken flatbed scanner I had. I don't really know any of its properties, but it was an HP3200c scanner. So, the piece of glass was already broken, but appeared to have no cracks in the area I was trying to engrave. The heat from the engraving process probably caused a pre-existing crack to expand and further break the glass.

I am probably not the right guy to ask about which engraver would be right for you.

I am sorry that I can't be more help. Good luck

Steve

Hey Gang -

I guess I have to eat a few of my words and take back what I said. Here goes.

If you have been keeping up with my postings on the subject, I bought my Ink Express IE 300 mini laser engraver with the primary goal of cutting vector based files. I like gears, so the plan is to cut plastic gears using .PLT files.

My initial attempts to do this were less than successful and I wrongly assumed that it would not be possible to cut vectors properly from within their software.

Now, I will say that it would be easier and offer more control if one could cut directly from DOS using PLT files, but you can't and that is a sore point.

But, getting back to what you CAN do from within their software...

At first, I made a mistake. It appeared that the only image files it could accept were BMP and JPG. There is an image converter portion of their software. It will convert .PLT into BMP, but the results are not great. Not the way to go for precision.

But, I recently discovered that in the image import part of the software, it will import .PLT directly, without conversion. It is a little funny, because there is a dialogue box that says image.BMP even though you are looking at image.PLT on your screen. So, I wrongly assumed that it was doing a conversion. The fact is, that it is making a BMP, but that is only for viewing. So, even though it looks like a low-res pixelated (aliased) version of your vector file, it will actually cut as a vector.

But no so quick. You go to the output screen and click on "outline" (which is their vector mode) and then "output". At this point, it will only cut out part of your file. And thats all you get. The user is totally reliant on how their software interprets your .PLT

I knew my .PLT file was good, as I also have an HP compatible plotter and I could completely and accurately plot my .PLT files on the plotter. And when I open them in the laser engraver software, you can SEE the whole thing, but it wouldn't cut the whole thing. It would typically get hung up on the edges.

I spent DAYS working on this, but then realized that their software wasn't really trying to calculate some edges. Hard to explain, but for any single image, the software my fail to edge detect where the edge is close to (or falls on) the outer edge of the image.

So, in the case of a .PLT file, it was simple enough to introduce some bogus lines that were outside the area that I really wanted to cut. This worked, but not always.

I finally stumbled onto a solution where the bogus lines sort of defined the corners of an image larger than I was really trying to cut. And by doing short bogus lines, then when the software is scanning for edges, it finds the edges I want. Hard to explain, but it works! I am finally cutting gears, using their software. For what it's worth, it sometimes finds the bogus lines and cuts them too, but sometimes it doesn't find the bogus lines.

Yeah, a long and complicated tale. I had to tell ya that it CAN be done!

I hope the pics help!

The first represents a PLT that successfully plots on HP plotter.
The second shows a possible result of that PLT with engraver
The third represents a PLT file that successfully cuts out a gear with engraver!

It's those lines outside the cutting area that let the software see the edges of the image.

It really can be done!

And here is an example of a 45tooth gear cut out on the engraver. The gear came out very nice. Notice how only one of the bogus got cut.

That is nice steve. What software do you use for drawing your gears?

Thanks Diarmaid -

I really do like gears...and with the aim of making gears of different tooth count that can mesh together, I cobbled together a little excel application. At first, it was for g-code only, so I could make wooden gears with cnc. But recently made a PLT version.
You can download here, if ya like:

http://www.geocities.com/sidi_steve/NewPix/picView.html
GearCreate8

To get the g-code to compile, macros must be enabled. But to get PLT, you can enter the dimensions on the GearDataEntry worksheet and the results are on the LaserPLT worksheet.

Steve

After I bought it, I got a quote for less from:
http://www.hxlaser.com/en/products/chapter.htm

And supposedly, the software at HX does support vector AND raster images...


this machine you posted I just got a email back from and they said they now sell from a U.S. Merchant. But unfortunately he needs his nut and the machine is almost double the price. I don't know if you can get them direct anymore.

http://www.electronicutopia.com/ This is the US sales now

miljnor

Maybe you should have a look at this site: http://www.hflaser.com/jgdkj.html

Im thinking about the 3040A machine. It is more expensive than the IE300 (Less expensive than that crazy new price!) but it comes with a larger cutting area for the extra cash so its justified, and the distributors are in Canada.

Unfortunately there have been no replies to my post about it so I dont have a clue if its any good.

www.hxlaser
www.hflaser



These laser machines all are in the Chinese Jinan,I understand them extremely,Because we are the colleague,Or is the friend,
I sell such machine in US and Europe,But they need the customs to authenticate,
3,040 prices estimates are between 1000-3000 US dollar,And he is the RISC machine,Was inferior to DSP is good
Hoped I may help you,About this machine

Hi Sidi Steve. I ordered an ie300 last week by wire transfer to their bank, and they got the funds and shipped within a week. The transfer cost $45., but I felt better doing it this way. Anyway, they said it had been shipped via FedEx and I should get it in 3-5 days. Assuming Customs doesn't delay delivery, I should have it in a couple of days. I hope it arrives in good condition, and that all I will have to do to get it up and running is djust the mirrors and lens.
Anyway, I just read your story about cutting vectors, and I have to say that your hard earned info and techniques to cut vectors is pure gold. You have earned my heartfelt thanks! When I get it up and running I'll post my experiences and results. I hope I will also be able to provide some useful info for any other users out there. Again, THANK YOU! I wouldn't have figured out your techniques by myself in a year of trying. I'll keep you posted.

Hi smparkinson -

Well congrats on the order and I hope it arrives safe, sound and soon.

One thing you can do while you are waiting is to go to a hardware store and buy a clean 5 gallon bucket. Then go to a grocery store and get at least three gallons of purified water.
Also, if you find a sale on poster board or any other card stock kinda papery stuff, then you'll have lots of stuff to practice your cuts on. Me, I went dumpster diving behind an art supply store and got lots of stuff about the weight of manilla folder, but white and red.

Anyway, always good to practice on something cheap.

Also, Might be a good idea to have a fire extinguisher nearby. Some of my experiments had the laser setting too high, and this caused the paper to burn. Hasn't been a problem yet, in that it hasn't caused the whole paper to ignite yet. I have seen flame and I have been able to blow it out.

If you have questions, lemme know. And please do keep me posted.

Steve

I just wanted to apprise everyone of my experience with Electronic Utopia. If ever the words Buyer Beware were applicable, this is the place. I purchased the 40 watt laser from him, by way of Ebay. After six weeks of waiting, and many unanswered phone calls and emails, I filed a grievance through PayPal. He immediately contacted me with a tracking number and begged me to withdraw my complaint, as the unit was on the way. DON'T EVER WITHDRAW YOUR PAYPAL COMPLAINT UNTIL YOU ARE COMPLETELY SATISFIED! But I didn't know that I wouldn't be able to refile it, and complied. The unit arrived via UPS a couple days later (Thursday, June 8th) -- now almost seven weeks after placing the order. I opened it immediately and inspected it. As you've probably already guessed, it was damaged. The laser tube was shattered, the fan unit was broken, and the cord that goes from the transformer to the unit is missing. I took photos of the damage and emailed them off to him post-haste. You're not going to believe what his response was. I am still sitting here, slack-jawed, myself. According to him, the photos are not of the unit he sent me. Apparently, he says, I have photographed another unit and am trying to commit mail fraud. Like I could afford two? As I've already mentioned, PayPal can't help me because I was naive enough to cancel the grievance at his request. And even if I hadn't, their limit for re-imbursement is only $1000. I've filed a grievance with Ebay, but it looks as though they are going to just kick me back to Paypal, because that's the payment method I used. I've filed a damage report with UPS yesterday, so I have no idea how that's going to come out yet. I don't hold out much hope for that because it will no doubt involve coordination with the vendor. That's obviously not going to happen. I have another avenue that I plan to pursue tomorrow (Monday), but overall, it looks like I'm out 2-grand. Small potatos to some, but I am laid-off and was hoping to use this opportunity to start a small business. Guess I start job-hunting tomorrow.

I'm not telling you to buy or not to buy from this individual. I'm just letting everybody know what I encountered. I wish I had this information available to me on April 22nd. My choice about whether to purchase or not would have been considerably different.

Hi colonel click,

:( Im really sorry about that mate. 2k is a lot of money, and a fortune if your out of work. Your info is much appreciated though. I wont be buying from him for sure.

Thanks for the kind sentiment, Diarmaid.

You know, what adds insult to injury here is that I had actually started to purchase from Ink Express back in March, but my banker called me and strongly encouraged me to withdraw my transfer (prior to executing it). He expressed deep concern that transferring money overseas had, in the past, resulted in the money disappearing down a "black hole", as he put it. So I decided to err on the side of caution and purchase from somebody domestic, with the belief that, although more expensive, I would stand a better chance of actually receiving the merchandise. It now looks like I should have gone with the "black hole". At the very worst, I wouldn't have lost as much.

I don't know if anyone on here has successfully ordered from Ink Express yet, but I would be interested in hearing about it. I see that smparkinson has placed an order, and I wish him the best of luck. If it goes well, maybe in 6 months or a year I can afford to follow his lead.

I just don't know how guys like that can sleep at night. Man, I am sure sorry that you have experienced such a horrible experience.

Here are my thoughts for damage control.

The cable, at least for my IE300, was like a standard computer cable. These can be found at Radio Shack, for sure, but often can be found at thrift stores for cents on the dollar. And many garage sales have some kind of computer equipment that would have the cable.

The fan, again can be found at Radio Shack or from old computers or similar.

The laser tube...I haven't tried, but according to the FAQ on the Ink Express website:

http://www.iehk.net/faq.html#6

08.Where can I purchase the laser tube and the Optics?
Ink Express can supply this consumables at low price.

I would try to contact people at:

hxlaser:
http://www.hxlaser.com/en/index.htm

and
Ink Express
http://www.iehk.net/

and
RedSail (hflaser)
http://www.hflaser.com/

Send them a picture of the model you have and ask for a quote on the tube with shipping.

While it is evident that you do have several problems, it may not be entirely dire, just a supreme pain in the ass.

I would start with the power cable and fan. They are cheap. At that point, you can do some testing. As in, you can power the unit on. Be sure the laser power know is ALL THE WAY to the left. When the unit powers on, it will try to drive the head to its home position, which is upper left. If it goes there and stops, then at least you know that the motion control system works. And if so, then you'll know whether to invest in a tube. DO NOT TRY to test the software and DO NOT press the "laser test" button. I am thinking that if the unit tries to activate the laser, but the laser isn't there, then "BAD THINGS" could happen... I believe that as long as one does not try to activate the tube, then one can power the unit on to test the X and Y components.
Also note that when under power, the head can not be moved manually. But with power off, you can move the head. So, a real simple test is to manually move the head somewhere in the middle and then power the unit on. Finally, no need to worry about the water, as the water is only to cool the tube.

Please feel free to ask me any further questions. I wish you luck!

Steve

I meant "knob" not "know"

Be sure the laser power KNOB is ALL THE WAY to the left.

Hey Colonel -

For what its worth - I felt exactly the same way. I almost ordered from Electronic Utopia. I was uneasy about sending money to the potential black hole. But, after sending Elec Distopia an email asking for info, I heard nothing and decided to go the route of Ink Express. It arrived and the experience was mostly alright.

Just outta curiosity, where are you located

Steve

So why did you all not buy one from me then???

dixonjk,
I did previously state that I might be interested in one if the price and software were right. See post #30. I never heard a word from you.
Scott

Knob. Got it.

Thanks, Steve. Your suggestions are highly insightful and greatly appreciated. The first thing I want to do is wait and see if UPS wants to inspect this. So I don't dare touch anything unless or until they get back to me. At that point, I will print out your post and follow it like a recipe. Ain't got nothin' to lose, right?

So you have successfully purchased from Ink Express, then? Wonderful! Wish I had discovered this forum months ago. Which brings me to Mr. dixonjk's post. I am truly sorry, sir. I did, indeed, only discover CNCzone today. Or, to be more precise, my buddy Paul discovered it today. He was so incensed about what has happened to me that he started googling around trying to find more information and such. "Check your email", he says. I began at the beginning of this thread and followed it all the way through. I knew that I had to get the word out about my experiences, so I signed up immediately. Glad I did. You folks seem like a pretty good bunch. Hope I can save just one person from making the same mistake I did.

The ol' Colonel currently calls Springfield, Missouri home, Steve.

Hey Colonel -

I was hoping you might be right down the proverbial street..but alas, I am in Nor California. Regardless, I'll try to provide assistance.

Of course, it makes sense to try to get the situation resolved properly first, as that would be best. Let us know how it goes.

again, I wish you luck.

Steve

Only if the proverbial street is 1900 miles long. On a recent trip to northern Arizona, the motel operator asked me where I was from. I smiled and said "Just down the road." She gave me the expected look of perplexity. I said "See that street out front: Route 66? I live about 1200 miles THAT way." (In fact, I live one block off old Route 66 in Springfield, MO.) We became fast friends.

I'll keep you up to date on the progress, or lack thereof, of my little.... um... situation. Thanks again, Steve.

here is the email of the suppliers of Electronic utopia. I am sure they would be interested in how thier American supplier is doing business.

And who knows maybe they will make good on it. And if they don't you could always say the the P.R. would be good if they "made it right" and bad if the didn't. Their choice.

hxsun@hxlaser.com

Is it me or do all of the Online names of the chinees guys look the same? :)



I am going to order one of the bigger units from ink express. But will wait to see if smparkinson's come in good condition.

I am going to order one of the bigger units from ink express. But will wait to see if smparkinson's come in good condition.

Ink express are certainly getting steady business from this site! Maybe cnczone could contact them and see if they will give any special offers to members. :D

no doubt. Although usually the prices just goes up... :(

Companies get successfull and the raise prices. Whats up with that? usually they get bigger and make things cheaper, Must be greedy! ;)

Everything is alrighty though! just have a moose droole! :cheers:

Thanks for the suggestion, Miljnor. I think that's a fine idea. The supplier does need to know how his "representative" is representing him. I'll shoot off a little advisory to him right now. Frankly, I don't expect much in the way of satisfaction, but you never know. I'll keep you folks in the loop.
-Click

Hey Colonel Click,

You might be interested in these two threads:

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20332

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20872

There's a lot of good information in those two threads, Diarmaid. Thanks for making them available to me. Maybe by the time I can afford to try again, I will be able to make an informed decision this time. I do plan to try again, it's just that I may have to go back to working for the "man" for a while to replenish my cash reserves a bit.

Hi Sidi Steve,
Well, I took delivery of my ie300 unit today. This will be one of the longer days of my life, as this is hardly a plug and play piece of equipment. First, I'll tell you of today's trials and tribulations, than I have a few questions that I hope you can help me with. OK, here goes........
Two packages were delivered by DHL this morning, one big and one small. The small one was the power supply. As I opened it, a couple of small springs fell into my hand. When I got it opened, there was a grey sheet metal case with lots of dents and it rattled like tons of lose parts. Sure enough, I opened it and everything spilled out. This wasn't a matter of Customs inspection gone wild. This "power supply" had been damaged before being packed. Anyway, aside from being dented and ugly, the switch on the back (115V / 230V) was in pieces. The pieces were all there and I put it back together and snapped it closed. There was no way of knowing if I had reversed the output or not, but I figured that once I knew which setting was which, I could keep it in the right position with a piece of duct tape or something. Since I didn't have an amp meter to check it with, I took a junk mini halogen lamp I had laying around and tried it with the power supply. When it was set to the 115V setting, the lamp went on brighter than I'd ever seen it. Than I tried it on the 230V setting, and the lamp came on rather dimly. I than took the lamp and pluged it directly into the wall recepticle. It went on dimmer than on the power supply set to 115V, and brighter than when it was set to 230V. I'll be the first to admit that I don't know a lot about electronics, but it seemed to me that while the 230V setting was probably closer to the 115V output I was seeking, it seemed the dull lamp light was not getting enough voltage. I tried the same thing with a little exhaust fan I had laying around, and sure enough, the fan turned a lot faster when it was plugged into the wall recepticle than when it was plugged into the power supply set at 230V. Be assured that I will be getting a volt meter before the day is out, and than I'll know the actual output of the power supply in both settings. It goes without saying that I will not be pluging the laser unit in until I have the correct power supply.
Not plugging the laser unit in until later shoudn't be a problem since they sent me a power cable for Europe and/or Asia(?) I have an extra power cable I found in the garage, so it's no big deal. And it's a good thing that I had that old exhaust fan laying around, because the one they sent me doesn't work no matter where I plug it in. And speaking of cables, the one they sent me to interface between my computer and the laser is the old style parallel port type. I had to pay $39. for a parallel port/USB cable. They say there is an English users manual, but I couldn't find one. Good thing I can download one from their website.
I was able to load their software into my computer without too much of a problem. I figured that a good way to get familiar with their software would be to click on the "HELP" button. When I clicked it, turned out that all the "help" info is in Chinese.
Now, my BIG question is this. If it turns out that their power supply will not give me the correct voltage I need to run the machine without damage, would I be able to substitute a computer power supply from a place like CompUSA? And if I need to do that, should I get one that is rated for 500 amps, or will a 250 amp unit do the job?
Believe it or not, aside from all my *****ing and whining, I'm still not all that mad. I am looking forward to getting things up and running. It's like a lot of other things in life. You deal with the problems, you buy parts and you fix things, and than the things actual work and you've saved some money. Not such a bad way to end the day, assuming everything works out OK. That being said, you can be sure that I have some things to say to the rep at Ink Express. I expect them to make it up to me one way or another. A complementary mini CNC machine would do a lot to smooth things over. (Yeah right)
In closing, let me thank all you out there who offer information and advise to the people who have questions and technical problems. You're very much appreciated, and I certainly hope I will be able to help someone in the same way one of these days.
My personal thanks go out to Sidi Steve for sharing his experiences and advise regarding this potentially (hopefully) nice little engraving machine. THANK YOU!
Sincerely,
Steve Parkinson
(smparkinson@hotmail.com)

Hey Steve -

Well, it arrived rather quickly! That is a good thing. Sorry to hear that it was less than perfect. So frikkin frustrating. I do hope you can figure out a way to get Ink Express to make it right.
My transformer was also in a state of disassembly. I thought it was due to "Customs inspection gone wild", but mine wasn't as bad as yours. Sounds like it works, tho.

I just went out to mine with a voltage meter.
This transformer can be used to convert 110v ac to 220v ac. Inside there are 2 coils, one with 2x as many winds as the other. So, it can also be used to convert 220v ac to 110v ac. Now, since we use 110v ac (really anything from 110 to 120 or so) this transformer will convert it to 220v ac or 55v ac - either double or half. Make sense? The switch in back should display the input voltage. Mine says "115" meaning that it is getting 110-120 and will output 220-240v ac. The unit runs on +/- 220v ac.

Inactuality, the voltage coming out of my wall reads around 121v ac and the voltage I read post transformer is 233v ac. That gets plugged into the laser engraver. Inside the laser engraver, the power appears to get directed to 2 different locations. 1 goes to a regulated power supply as the motion control and logic runs on what looks like 12v dc. The power is also getting directed to the laser. I haven't yet measured the voltage going there, as I really haven't wanted to stand there with the unit open and the laser itself ON while trying to make contact with the leads of my volt meter...

I truly hope this helps

Steve

USB v Parallel compatibility...

Hey Steve - I truly hope that the USB to parallel cable solution works. Let me know either way on that one.

First, let me ask, is your software called Moshi or MoshiSoft or somesuch like that?
Second, is your computer laptop or desktop?

My experience is that Moshi only works with LPT1 (not even LPT2) . You can see in my previous posts, that I have made many attempts to control the unit outside of LPT1, to no avail.

Let me know if you have a problem controling the unit and I will try to help.

----

About the transformer...be careful in selecting one. Like I mentioned, this is a transformer for changing voltage, from 110Vac to 220Vac. It is also rated for 600VA.
(That is what it says) Mine gets pretty warm. Now, I am not really great at explaining electronics, but I believe that in order for that 40w laser to "lase" there is a transformer within the unit that produces some very high voltage (not unlike the ballast for a fluorescent tube) This transformer probably draws some pretty heavy current. So, should you need to get a new power supply, I'll do my best to help you locate something. But I would suggest steering clear of anything in the 250watt range...

I should really contact Ink Express and Red Sail and all of those companies...I could do a decent job of representing and troubleshooting their product...

Out of curiosity, where are you located?

Steve

Hi Steve,
Just a quick note, and I'll fill you in as I make progress (Ihope). When I hooked up the box between the wall outlet and the laser, the laser toggle switch did glow red. But the test button didn't produce a beam. Also, the X/Y mechanism did nothing. However, after reading the manual again, I noticed it referenced the use of a voltage regulater. I wondered if my box was actually a voltage regulater used to keep the juice consistant, so I plugged the laser directly into the wall outlet. Although the laser head didn't move home, which my old GCC Mercury did on power up, the test button did produce a cutting beam which I tested on a piece of paper. That made me happy.
Anyway, I'll hopefully get the software up and running and see if that brings the X/Y mechanism to life. I'll keep you posted. Thanks again for your help!
Steve

Sorry. I forgot to answer your question! I'm located in the Orlando Florida area, but I work in Vermont and spend more time up there than down here. My wife would much prefer me to move my laser up there, and that is what I will be doing. She's much nicer to me when I do what she says. I think she will be happier when me and my laser are both up there.
Steve

Hey Steve,

Well, either way - Florida or Vermont - it is a bit far for this California kid to take a look at it.

How are things coming together?

So, I just disconnected my laser engraver from the computer. Mine, when powered up, will still home itself, even without being connected to the computer.

Steve

Hi Steve,
The transformer worked out ok. The one they sent me only put out 60 volts, than dropped to 2 volts, than down to o. So I got one at a local place called Skycraft. Cost $50. and is rated at 600 AV. I tested it and it's putting out about 230v or so, and when I power up the laser head goes to home as it should. The laser puts out a nice hot beam when I hit the test button. But that's about it.
I've played with the software and made a test file consisting a series of concentric numbered rectangles so that I could tell exactly what the cutting area is. However, I can't cut it. When I hit the output button, I get a little message that it is outputting, but the laser does nothing. I think it's because of the USB to parallel cable setup, and if that's the case I don't know what to do. I don't mind jumping through a few hoops to get this thing up and running, but this is getting rediculous. Please help me!!!

as stated earlier I don't think you will be able to use the USB-Parallel cable, as I don't think their software is setup for it.

you will probably have to get a pci card with a parallel port to make the software work.

Hi Steve

You are SO CLOSE to getting this to work. You will be cutting soon.

Here is the deal as I see it.

When you open the moshi software, on the upper left there is the file tab.
When you click on file, there should be a "System Options" or "Options" that
you can click on.

This will bring up a Systems Option dialog box.

With the box open, click on the "select port" tab.

The upper most option is the key. Although it appears that there are options,
really it seems that ONLY LPT1 works. LPT1 is your systems primary parallel
printer port. LPT2 won't work and neither will com1 (serial). I checked out
the backend of their software and the output supercedes regular windows
protocol (at least in win98) and takes direct control of the lpt1 port. Kinda
weird and different than a regular printer or plotter. You NEED to have a
parallel port. So, if you don't have a parallel port, there are 2 things you
might try.

1. Go to compUSA or other and buy a parallel card. Usually they are cheap.
Follow the instructions (Generally, open box, install card, power up, install
software and restart) Now you have a parallel port. Right click on my
computer, click on hardware, click on Device manager, scroll down to "Ports
(COM & LPT) click on the "+" and be sure LPT shows up as LPT1. if you have no
LPT1, then see if you can find instructions for LPT1 assignment.

Remember, you NEED LPT to be LPT1.

Once you have LPT1, then set moshi to LPT1.

If ADDING a parallel port to your computer fails, then try buying a cheap
computer from craigslist or other used source. Mine runs on a $25 Pentium3
running windows98. They can be had cheap. If you find several, stay away from
NT as there is no USB support and you will still need USB for their dongle to
work.

Once you have functional parallel port, things should work.

I gotta run out for dinner, but I'll be back in a bit.

Good luck

Steve

Hi. This info is all really facinating, and Steve P I hope you get up and running soon. Im sure its no consolation but at least the info from your problems is and will be helping others who haven't bought yet (Me), and who look at this thread in future. Thanks.

One question. Did either of you buy specific protective goggles for using with this? If so, where did you get them. If not, what are you using, or are they needed at all. Thanks.

Hi guys,
I can't say enough about how helpful you all are with your suggestions. Having spent most of yesterday fooling around with the laser, I have neglected to take care of my household duties. I am home on a "vacation" from my work up in Vermont, which means that my wife expects me to work around the house while she is at work. If I don't take care of things around here before she gets home, she'll be hitting me with that rolling pin again.
One thing good about the domestic work. It's mindless stuff which gives me time to think about important things, like will I ever get this laser to cut? And, when I get this laser to cut, will she (the wife) make me get it out of the living room? And, will I ever be able to make a little money with this laser once I get it works?
I wanted to use this unit with my laptop, which doesn't have a parallel port. It does have a knock out cover for a slot showing a parallel port icon, however, when I removed the cover, there was no parallel port outlet. Didn't look like there was room to plug in a card/port either, but I know everything in laptop's is miniaturized, so I'm hoping I can go that route if it doesnt cost too much. I would certainly be prefer to control the laser with the laptop, but if that can't be done I guess I'll have to go the used desktop route. That is IF I can find a machine that has both parallel port for the laser AND a USB port for the software key.
Now I am starting to wonder if there would be a cost effective way of just using the mechanical components of this machine, and obtaining / installing control electronics that would be more user friendly. It would be really nice to be able to "print" directly from Corel Draw or Autocad. When I had my GCC Mercury machine, one of the features I really liked was that you could control different segments of the job by assigning them with color coded parameters. Each color could be controled by assigning specific values like speed, laser strength, PPI, etc. In effect, you could actually give your work a little bit of 3D effect. It also worked well to have the job do raster first, than cut out the rastered parts in vector mode.
Anyway, if anybody has any ideas about replacing the electronics as described above, please let me know your thoughts. I should tell you that I know next to nothing about electronics. Any electronic retrofit would have to be plug n' play with a minimum of set up. If this is possible in a cost effective way, it could open up new doors for this machine. Think in terms of buying directly from the manufacturer in China with no controm electronics installed. The price would be lower, and the electronics could be chosen by the purchaser's preference.
I really want to here from you guys on the above prospect. Is there an electronics
control package out there? Would it be inexpensive enough to make it a cost effective change? And would it be easy enough to install and matchup with a software package to make it a viable alternative to "Moshidraw" and the laser as it now exists?
I will be scouting around for the parallel port fix today, and hopefully I will be lasing by the end of the day. Again, I very much appreciate everyones support out there, and I will keep you posted as the IE300 story continues to unfold.
Thanks again for your help!
Steve (smparkinson)
smparkinson@hotmail.com

Glad to hear your still plugging away Steve, sounds like your close to getting up and running. :)

Re the electronics, unfortunately I cant offer any advice but what you say certainly sounds do-able to my uninitiated mind, although it may involve quite a bit of work and time. You should contact the moderator 'Al The Man'. You'll see his posts in the electronics forum threads. Maybe pm him. I dont know if he'll be any help, but he certainly gave me great advice on electronics problems before. Maybe post a new thread in that forum also and see what comes up as those guys would probably know better than any general laser people in this forum.

Have you re-evaluated your position on the RedSail 3040A laser engraver since you bought this one, or do you still think you were better off not risking it? Im wondering because any opinions either way will affect my decision on which one to go with and I have to say that your experience is chasing me away from the IE300. :) Thanks.

Finding a used PC with parallel port/usb to get the system going as intended makes alot of sense. It appears you are trying to work through too many variables at this point. Retrofit of electronics sounds to me like a very bad idea.
Keep posting your progress.
Carl

Hi diarmaid,
If I had known than what I know now, I think I would have gone with the Redsale 3040. Although the price is about double of the IE300, the engraving area is about 11" x 16" as opposed to the approx. 8" x 11" of the ie300. That doesn't sound like much of an area, but when you actually measure it out, it is a substantial area to work with. In retrospect, I think that there probably isn't too much difference between Hong Kong and China these days. And if I can work out a plan to take delivery personally up in Canada, there is no doubt that is the route I would take now. After all, I can require a demo of the machine and software BEFORE paying the balance due on delivery. Hindsight is always 20/20, but perhaps others will benefit from my experience.
Redsail's software, as described by them is called Easycut 2.0 and...... "The Redsail laser system is compatible with Windows-based graphic programs, such as Corel Draw, Adobe Photoshop, Adobe Illustrator, Auto CAD and etc."
I have been in contact with Leo at Redsail Canada, and he is trying to work out some sort of agreement with the company in China. What I proposed to him was that upon placing an order for the model 3040, I would pay $1000. in advance and the balance including shipping upon delivery, which I would take in person at his office in Canada. It's about a 500 mile trip each way for me when I am in Vermont, but if all else goes according to plan, I think a couple of days on the road would be well worth the effort.

I have found a download link at

http://www.esplines.com/langenu/downloads_easycut.php

I'm going to atempt a download of their English version, just to see if is more user friendy, even if it wont drive my ie300. If I can download a usably copy, I'm certainly going to see if I can get it to do anything with my laser. I'll keep you posted!
Steve
smparkinson@hotmail.com

Hi Carlnpa,
I agree with you about the retrofit of electronics in the ie300. If all else fails and it can be done cheaply, and if it is sure to work, I may consider it. If I end up getting another machine from another company, I might also try a retrofit on the ie300 just to make the two machines compatable. I have a lot of "IF's" going on right now, so I'll just have to keep working and see if I can get things going. I'll try to deal with all my "IF's" in the future if need be.
Steve
smparkinson@hotmail.com

Hey Steve,

Here are some of my thoughts - but I just got back from a long-ish bicycle ride. I haven't refueled yet, so the thoughts are less than organized.

Motion Control from Laptop:
Many people are using laptops to control their homebrew cnc machines via a parallel port. However, many other people experience problems using a laptop for motion control. The problems are generally due to slightly lower voltages coming off of the parallel card.
I would recommend trying to find a used desktop. Since I got into the cnc (and now laser and plotter ) hobby, I have collected several cheap computers. I use my nice one in the house for design and such and then keep the rest in the garage. I have one hooked up to my little cnc mill and one hooked up to my laser. And whenever I get a new toy to play with, such as a plotter or something, I have a few extra stacked in a corner. I try to find free ones or ones for less than $20. If I don't need it, sometimes I'll make sure it's running well and resell it for more...
Anyway, a desktop with USB and parallel shouldn't be too hard to find. I wish I were local to ya, I'd give you one to play with.

Retrofitting the Electronics:
I gave considerable thought to redoing the electronics on mine. In fact, I am still considering this route.

There are 3 primary things that you have the ability to control with the IE300:
1. X and Y motion - controlled by software
2. Laser On and Off - controlled by software
3. Laser Intesity - Manually controlled

The easiest electronics swap I can think of is this - to find a flatbed style XY pen plotter. I bought one similar to the attached picture, on eBay for a dollar plus $25 shipping. The one I got can be controlled via parallel or serial connections.

You would start by making sure you could plot the way you want with it. If so, then that is a good start. The next bit would be a little tricky, but these kind of flatbed XY plotters basically use an electro magnet (much like a solenoid) for pen control. It is likely 12v DC , but I haven't checked yet. Now the laser on and off, which you already know works, is as easy to operate as pressing that button. The same 2 wires that are on the backside of that button, can be closed just as easily by use of a relay. So, if you were to go to Radio Shack and buy a relay, then you could easily turn your pen control into laser control. Make sense?

There are other plotters out there that are more readliy available, but the flatbed type are easier to modify. The others have optical paper sensors and paper-size sensors and firmware that would present a far greater challenge to hack.

Retrofitting the Electronics - cnc style:
It would also be possible to buy a 3-axis cnc control card and some steppers. Be sure that the card had at least one software controlled on-off connection.

I believe these can be found from xylotex or hobbycnc, as well as others.

With this method, 2 of the axis will be X and Y. The third axis (called Z) can actually be used to control the laser intensity knob. The on-off can control a relay which can control the laser on-off.

Control of this cnc card would require a desktop computer with a parallel port. Would also require cnc control software - like TurboCNC or Mach3. For this application, Mach3 might be better as it can do what is called constant velocity contouring - meaning that it will adust the speed of X and Y to produce a constant speed. This is important with a laser because depth of cut is affected by speed. Make sense?

Summary:

The easiest thing for now is to see if you can find a cheap parallel card for your laptop - if it cost more than you feel comfortable investing in an additional test, then put that money toward a used desktop. It will likely work better anyway for motion control.

I truly believe that this is your final hurtle between where you are now and getting your IE300 moving and cutting.

The very fact that it goes home means that it can control the motors. The fact that you have pressed the laser test button and you get a beam means that the laser works. You also have the software up and running, so you know that works.

And I can tell you that the software is effectivley hardcoded to require LPT1. So, once you get a computer with a parallel port, you should be off to the races.

The only reason to consider a switch to different electronics is if you either can't get your computer to talk to the laser or if it can't do what you want. But I think you are almost there.

Good luck

Steve

Steve -

1 more thing -
should you choose the cnc route, you wuold also need some method of producing gcode, which is what the cnc control software requires. Basically, it is X, Y and Z data. I have used excel to make it. Once you know what flavor gCode your cnc control software likes, then it is fairly easy to make, but can present an additional hurtle. Not always plug-n-play...

Hi sidi_steve,
I wish I lived in sunny California so that I could enlist your help in person. Your depth on knowledge far exceeds mine when it comes to electronic controls. Fact is, I'm pretty much of a wysiwyg kind of guy, so I am probably better off making the best I can with what I have. But your suggestions all make a lot of sence, and I'm sure other members can benefit from them.
I'll be going back up to Vermont in another week or so, and my boss has several old computers laying around that I'm sure he would let me have if the did the job for me. In the meantime, I'll hook up to the family computer with the parellel port in back. Since it will only be for a few days, my wife can't give me too much heat about it. I'll just move things around while she's at work, and be up and running (I hope) before she gets home. In spite of the problems, I'm still very excited about getting this machine working. After all, even a laser engraver as small as this would cost several times what I've paid for this one.
Once again, I cannot express how much your encouragement and information means to me. I will keep you posted, and within the next 24 hours I hope to tell you that things are going great. Thanks again to everyone in this forum. It's great to have access to so many people with similar interests, and I hope that I will be able to provide useful information for you people out there in the near future.
Steve Parkinson
smparkinson@hotmail.com

Hey Steve,
With all the initial problems you had with broken parts, I was wondering if you had contacted InkExpress about it and what help, if any, they were in trying to help you resolve the problem with broken parts.

Hi txcowdog,
Here is a breakdown of my IE300 buying experience with Ink Express so far:

!.) Very prompt responses to my inquiries regarding pricing, shipping costs, etc.

2.) Very fast shipping! From the time I wired payment to their bank to the time I received unit was 7days! I don't think shipping could have been faster than that.

3.) Problems begin. 120/240 voltage converter damaged with loose parts. When I reassembled it, it only put out 60 volts, which dropped down to 4 volts, than nothing.
Note that my reassembly only consisted of securing the actual converter itself to it's it's base, and snapping its switch back together. I did no rewiring. I stress this to assure you that the converter's failure was not due to incorrect rewiring, as no rewiring was done. The sheet metal case was heavily damaged when I received it, with crushed corners and pronounced dents on top which were the result of impacts from the INSIDE of the case. Note that the shipping carton was double walled heavy cardboard with no damage on the outside. This unit was damaged before it was shipped to me.

4.) Exhaust fan provided by Ink Express did not work.

5.) Water pump provided by Ink Express worked for about 10 minutes before it died.

6.) Power cord provided by Ink Express was European style plug, and would not fit the power converter they supplied.

7.) No user manual was supplied.

8.) Printer cable supplied was parellel port style, not USB. ( In fairness I will say that is a problem for me only because my laptop, which I wanted to use with the laser, had no parellel port. I have been advised that using a desktop computer with a parellel port is preferable to laptop.)

What I have done to deal with the above listed problems is as follows:

1.) I found a 120/240 600 voltage converter at a local electronics surplus store for $50. I cut out the front control panel of the converter sent by Ink Express and mounted it to the converter box I got locally, wired it up, and at least was able to use the switch and outlets from the bad converter. This turned out ok, and the replacement converter is putting out between 230 and 240 volts.

2.) I had an old kitchen exhaust fan which I fit to the laser engraver case. I think it pulls out a lot more air than the one they provided even if it had worked.

3.) I had a little water pump I had gotten on sale for $5. from Harbor Freight Tools. I set it up in my 5 gal. drum and again, it is pumping more water than the one provided by Ink Express.

4.) I found an old computer cord in the garage to replace the European style one provided by Ink Express.

5.) I downloaded the user's manual from the Ink Express web site.

No doubt that the voltage converter was the main problem. The company I purchased the replacement from is called Skycraft Surplus, and they have an unbelievable variety of electrical, electronic, and mechanical parts selection. You can check them out at www.skycraftsurplus.com to find things you wouldn't find elsewhere.
The exhaust fan, water pump, and power cord are things you could find locally if you didn't have them laying around. And downloading and printing the usuer's manual was no big deal.
I guess my problem is not so much the fact that I had to do some scrounging around to get the stuff listed above. What bugs me is the response I got from Ink Express when I emailed them about the problems. Leo (the Ink Express rep I had placed the order with) simply said that the converter must have been damaged in shipping, and that I should get one locally. He said that the fan was 240voltd, and should work with the converter (It didn't.) He said nothing about the power cord, and that I could get the user manual from the website. His response gave me the impression that he didn't care, now that the sale had been made. This is an unfortunate attitude from a business perspective. Had he just responded with a little more "after the sale" concern, and maybe offered to offset the price of some possible future equipment sale, I would have felt that he was making an effort to address my problems. This is unfortunate, as I would have definatly considered purchasing equipment from him in the future. They have a CNC router, the IEC6090 with a 24" x 36" work area, which they sell for $2999. plus shipping. It looks like a great machine for the price, and I would have been very interested in buying one had my first purchase been handled with better customer service. In fact, if I hear from Ink Express with a little "after the sale" feedback inquiry, I might still consider another purchase from them.

Sorry about the long reply to a short question, but I wanted to explain my perspective, and the fact is, my response is as much for the people of Ink Express as for you and the other forum members. I still hope to hear from Leo, and I think a certain amount of the above is maybe to some extent cultural misunderstanding and different business perspectives.
Well, I've finished my coffee. Now it's time once again to see if I can get my IE300 up and running. You can be sure that if I do, my next posting will be a happy one!

Steve Parkinson
smparkinson@hotmail.com
.

the IEC6090 with a 24" x 36" work area, which they sell for $2999

I think your confusing ink express with redsail man. inkexpress is ie900/ie1200 and they are more expensive.

and I think Leo works for redsail canada too.

My error about Leo. He is the Canada rep for Redsail, and he has been responsive to all my inquiries. I meant to say David Chan from Ink Express. And the cnc router I was speaking of in my last post was the IEC6090 for$2999. which is from Ink Express. I haven't seen any cnc routers on the Redsail website, but I would certainly be interested in seeing what they have besides lasers and plotters. Sorry again for my confusion!

I think your confusing ink express with redsail man. inkexpress is ie900/ie1200 and they are more expensive.

and I think Leo works for redsail canada too.

http://www.iehk.net/Products/CNCIEC6090.html
Here is the link to the cnc router I refered was refering to. If you have a link for a similar machine offered by Redsail, please let me know about it. I know sometimes some of these companies have web addresses not linked from their main domain, so it wouldn't suprize me if Redsail does offer this router.
Thanks for your keen eye. I don't want to infer anything negative to Redsail. In fact, I will probably make my next equipment purchase from them if Leo and I can work out the delivery details. Thanks again!

It is ridiculous that you have had to go to such extreme lengths to get your laser working and after all you have done, it is still not to the point of functional. From what you have said, it appears that if you can not get it to work you will have a rather large paperweight because I do not think you will get any help from InkExpress. Another Zone member had initial problems with his unit but was able to get it working with little effort but he had to work on it nonetheless. Hearing that these units arrive DOA makes me look elsewhere for a low cost laser because I do not want to be stuck with a non functional box from InkExpress who is 4000 miles away with my money and not providing any service after the sale. Even if you get it working I am still very disappointed that you received no assistance other than lip service from Ink Express. Thanks for your posting. Word of mouth is truly the best advertising.

Another Zone member had initial problems with his unit but was able to get it working with little effort but he had to work on it nonetheless. Hearing that these units arrive DOA makes me look elsewhere for a low cost laser because I do not want to be stuck with a non functional box from InkExpress who is 4000 miles away with my money and not providing any service after the sale. Even if you get it working I am still very disappointed that you received no assistance other than lip service from Ink Express. Thanks for your posting.
Steve P, as this thread goes on Im getting more and more irritated with InkExpress. Im going to go with RedSail when I buy. The other zone member Im sure you are aware is Sidi Steve, and its to his merit that he gave an overall good impression of his machine although he had terrible aftersales service also. This service was to the point that I e-mailed InkExpress for him telling them about this site and that I was interested in purchasing but that they were treating him very badly. :boxing: A lot of this was done with S Steve using pm's so your probably unaware of it. Im afraid after following this topic for the past few months I have to say IE seem a bad choice (Although we don't have any others to compare with at this point), and if it wasn't for you & S Steve we wouldnt have any info on them at all. Thankyou & I hope it works out.

Edit: Of course IE's reply to my e-mail was polite but less than helpful. I think they'll be out of business within 24 mths max if they dont sort themselves out.

It is rather sad that we haven't heard one success story for ANY of the low cost lasers.

Ink Express ships quickly and offers timely responses to SALES queries and that's about it. So far, people have complained about BOTH Ink Express and Electronic Utopia.

Sadly, it seems that one must spend THOUSANDS more to get something that will come with anything resembling support.

It would be nice to see if ANYONE has been able to get a non-DOA laser engraver from ANY of the Asian suppliers.

For me, even though mine was DOA (as in, I also had to rebuild my 110 to 220 transformer and do other tinkering) it was worth it. I got it to work and there is no way I could afford anything else.

It would be nice if they were plug-n-play, but it appears that they are not.

I think your disappointment is entirely justified. It is appauling that Ink Express makes no effort to somehow "make it right." One would think they would want to, because it is the right thing to do. Or less altruistically, because a happy customer tells his friends and a peeved customer lets the whole world know thru a forum like this. Do a google search on IE300 and one of the first things that comes up is this forum, talking about their lack of customer service. Still, they don't want to make it right.

For me:
Damaged 110-220 transformer - luckily, I was able to fix mine
water pump - missing parts - New one from ACE $15
Wrong power cable - Euro model - I had a spare computer cable
Plus the whole fact that their manual says you can engrave from outside their software - but you can't - you gotta use their software. Initially problematic, but again, there is a work around.

So, I was ultimately able to get mine working for under $1500, which is rather cheap.

Laser Engraver IE300 = $1199 (now only $999)
Shipping = $270
water pump = $15

It does the job and cost a WHOLE LOT LESS than anything else I could find locally.

My $.02

Steve

Hey Steve,

how is it going today? Have you tried in on your desktop? I hope it's working out.

Steve

diarmaid! sidi_steve! Everybody!
IT WORKS! IT WORKS! IT WORKS! AND WITH VECTORS NO LESS! [U]

"Tis a great day, indeed. After hooking up to my desktop with the parellel cable, I did a test run with a circle. I selected "line", which I guess is their term for vector. The positioning was off, but I cut I nice symetrical circle in vector mode. And now that it's connected to the computer, there seem to be some additional choices to make within the software before cutting takes place.
I am going to shut down tonight since I had to move the laser into my bedroom where the desktop computer is. My wife was not pleased to see it there, so I am better off not using it until the morning. Don't these women understand that they married little boys, who like to make stuff, and burn stuff? I guess not.
Anyway, the morning will be the great time for me and my little friend. And tonight I can design some patterns to use in the morning. I had made a numbered grid to help me determine positioning, but the file somehow got corrupted, so determining positioning and actual work area will be the first job. After I get that down I'll make a few templates and than off I go.
For all the headachs, I now have a little laser engraver that can raster and vector, for a total of a little over $1,300. including shipping and my replacement voltage converter. In my book, after all is said and done, it's not such a bad deal. I am indeed a happy camper tonight. I'll check back with you all tomorrow.
Steve Parkinson
smparkinson@hotmail.com

Now that IS some good news! Way to go. I am glad you hung in there!

Show us a pic of something you cut, ok.

Be well and good luck,

Steve

Woohoooiee! :D
:wee: :banana: :wee: :banana: :wee:

Congrats. Im so glad its started working after all your trouble. Enjoy it m8.
Now......post some pics! :)

I wish I could tell you that I have been busy lasing, but first I had to get my water pump and exhaust fan up to snuff. The ones they sent me didn't work, and in any case even if the fan had worked, I don't think it would have pulled the volume of air needed. I took an old kitchen exhaust fan and built a wood case for it. I made slight extensions on the sides to match the flanges on the laser case, and wired it up. Right now it just plugs in, but I'll be putting a toggle switch on it.
Anyway, tonight I just did my first real test run with the grid pattern I set up in Moshidraw. The vector pattern came out fine except for the fact that the right half cut off because somehow the pattern cut in landscape rather than portrait orientation, and it ran out of printing area. I think I'll be able to figure that out without too much problem, and it is probably just a matter of determining what they call orientation in their options. I also noticed that there is an option called "versa" which I assume to be a mirror image for cutting stamps and other reverse jobs. I think I also noticed an option that defaults to cutting each line twice, which my test cut did. Again, I think it's just a matter of trial and error to understand the command options. The translation into English phrases could have been better, but I think it will turn out to be fine once I get used to it.
I did notice that two other Chinese companies who also sell the same laser unit under different names and refer to different software, one is called Newlyseal 11, and the other is called Easycut. I downloaded a demo of the English version of the Easycut software, which appears to be German. I don't know if it is a usable program or not, but I'll be giving it a try tomorrow. I Googled Newlyseal 11, and to my untrained eye, the text in the links I found looked to be Russian, but there were some English words in the site. As I have said previously, I don't know electronics, but it seems to me that if the same circuit boards are used in the machines offered by companies other than Ink Express, maybe the other software programs will also work on the IE300.
I'll be doing a lot more experimenting tomarrow, and I will keep you all informed. I think I might even write a book called MOSHIDRAW FOR DUMMIES.

Stephen Parkinson
smparkinson@hotmail.com

No doubt these products are ripped off copyrights or patents from those countries.

I am surprised that none of the world’s gov. are doing anything to quell this type of activity!

Hey Steve,
It appears that Stephen has had success at cutting a vector file by selecting "line" in the software. I was wondering if the version of the software you have has a similar option. I think I remember early in this thread that you could not cut anything but jpg and bmp.

Hey Stephen,

So, you did say you cut vectors using "line". Is this in the "Output" screen?

I have looked all over, I could only find "outline" - Where am I going wrong?

Thanks

Steve

Hi everybody,
Regarding your comment miljnor, I don't think Moshedraw is a ripped off copyrighted program. It just isn't very good, and if they were going to pirate a graphics software package I think they would have copied something better. On the other hand, they may well have pirated a bunch of features from copyrighted programs and than tied them together. At any rate, the program seems to be usable enough. It just isn't good enough to have been worth stealing.
Regarding txcowdog's comment about my cutting a vector file, I did indeed select "line" in the software. I have not yet done a raster file, and will be testing other files today and will let you all know about the results.
sidi_steve had earlier stated that he wasn't able to cut vectors, but had later on discovered how to do this within the software. He posted detailed information about how he succeeded in importing a vector file of a gear he had designed and than cut within Moshedraw. His results were hard won, and they will help me and anyone else who is trying to learn how to use Moshedraw effectivly. Sharing his experiences with us, he continues to contribute valuable techniques and information with us.
I again wish to thank all of you who have offered opinions and advise to me even before I decided to purchase my IE300. While I have often logged on to forum's covering a variety of subjects, without a doubt, this forum's members contribute more and better information than any place I have found on the web. I can't thank it's members enough, and I only hope that my own observations help it's others as much as I have been helped here.

Stephen Parkinson
smparkinson@hotmail.com

Hi sidi_steve,
Tell you the truth, this software is pretty confusing to decipher. At this point I'm not sure if the option I used was "line" or "outline". I just now figured out that I have to set X & Y position before I start to engrave, or the engraver will try to go past the actual dimentions of the machine and make that machinegun sound as the stepper motors try to take the laser head to parts unknown. This is going to take a lot of trial and error to get good results.
From my limited experience with this unit, I have only come to a couple of conclusions. One is that vectors will cut fairly quickly, while raster images will take a while to complete. This is putting it kindly. Another thing regarding raster images is regulating the intensity of the laser itself, as the power seems to fluctuate at lower settings. As I am using fairly thin posterboard to practice on, I am trying not to cut thru the material but just mark the surface. When lasing wood or other materials this might not be an issue as you would probably be using a higher power which might not fluctuate as much. I'll keep you posted as I work on other materials.
I wish I could get a screen shot of each page as I navagate this software. Without an illustrated user manual I find myself trying so many combinations of settings, that when something actually works I sometimes forget how I got there! I am starting to take notes, and I'm sure things will start making sense as I progress.
One thing I have not yet been able to do yet is to import image files into Moshidraw from other applications, although I haven't spent much time atempting to do so. If you have suggestions as to how I should proceed to do this, please let me know. In the meantime I'll try to remember the actual options I selected to do vectors. It also occured to me that we might be using different versions of Moshidraw. Mine came as a cd with a couple of hand written markings on it, either the initials LE or possibly a couple of Chinese charactors. This copy was obviously just a disk sombody burned on a computer, and there is nowhere within the software that I can find any version referenced. It should also be noted that when you click on the help menu that the help is in Chinese, and this is in the English version of the software. I also found that their website is completely in Chinese. Navigating their website I found a page that showed a variety of items that had been laser engraved, so I am assuming that the software was produced specifically for that purpose. Another page shows several circuit boards, and I am wondering if they produce the hardware as well as the software. If this is the case, it may turn out that I will be stuck with using their software exclusivly, although I hope that's not the case.
When I post again, probably later on tonight, I should have tried lasing on some other materials such as wood. I also have some samples of laser engraveable plastics from Romark, and some "absolute black" granite. I will be trying these materials within the next few days, after I feel a little more confident from my practice sessions with posterboard and scrap wood. Anyway, sidi_steve, I will try to make some more notes as I continue with my experiments, and I will keep you informed.
Stephen Parkinson
smparkinson@hotmail.com

I wish I could get a screen shot of each page as I navagate this software. Without an illustrated user manual I find myself trying so many combinations of settings, that when something actually works I sometimes forget how I got there!
Finally I can offer somthing a tiny tiny bit more useful than opinions and noob questions! :)

I use ScreenHunter 4. Just click 'Try' when it opens up. Takes about ten seconds to set up & activate and two seconds to take a screen capture. Free for unlimited use time period. Enjoy!

http://www.wisdom-soft.com/products/screenhunter_free.htm

If you decide to use it to make a user manual send me a free copy. ;)

Hey diarmaid!
What a find! Screenhunter is the best, easiest, and most useful free software I have ever been turned on to. I can't thank you enough for your tip. Tomorrow I will be going through Moshidraw and making screen shots of each screen. I'll print them out and start making notes on the prints that will have a visual reference. I will be able to put together a user manual with illustrations that will be a lot less confusing than notes alone. The visual reference will really make a big difference in my ability to recall and organize information and techniques in a useful way.
Now that I have the ability to print a screen, I'm sure that I'll find a lot of other uses for it as time goes on. DIARMAID, YOU GET THE "TIP OF THE YEAR" AWARD IN MY BOOK. Thanks a lot!
Stephen Parkinson
smparkinson@hotmail.com

I almost forgot a couple of things! The URL for Screenhunter is.......
http://www.wisdom-soft.com/products...hunter_free.htm
And the other thing is that I will be happy to send you a copy of a manual when I get it done. It might take a little while, but you'll get one.

Finally I can offer somthing a tiny tiny bit more useful than opinions and noob questions! :)

I use ScreenHunter 4. Just click 'Try' when it opens up. Takes about ten seconds to set up & activate and two seconds to take a screen capture. Free for unlimited use time period. Enjoy!

http://www.wisdom-soft.com/products/screenhunter_free.htm

If you decide to use it to make a user manual send me a free copy. ;)

See my post about Screenhunter

Your very welcome. :)

Hi sidi_steve,
It's interesting just how similar our experiences with Ink Express have been. As I read your post, I can't help but wonder about as to why Ink Express has not made any effort to make changes which would be both easy and inexpensive.
I just try to think in terms of overcomming obsticles. It's frustrating as hell, but when you make a discovery that works, it feels like victory. Make it work and you have earned the right to get results from a machine that costs a little over a grand.
I still think that the software is the main problem, and I think there has to be software somewhere out there that will work well with this machine. Happy lasing!

Stephen Parkinson
smparkinson@hotmail.com


One new good thing I discovered regarding the aquarium pump they sent me. I discovered that when it first starts, you need to expose the intake to air for a couple of seconds for the water to flow well. I accomplished this by sticking it to the wall of my water bucket just below the waterline. There is enough stretch in the suction cups that I can just give the pump a twist to expose the intake to the air for a second, than let it go and it pulls itself back under water. I had always thought that a lot of pumps needed to be primed with water to do the job, but this on needs just the opposite. I don't know why it works, but it does.

One new good thing I discovered regarding the aquarium pump they sent me. I discovered that when it first starts, you need to expose the intake to air for a couple of seconds for the water to flow well. I accomplished this by sticking it to the wall of my water bucket just below the waterline. There is enough stretch in the suction cups that I can just give the pump a twist to expose the intake to the air for a second, than let it go and it pulls itself back under water. I had always thought that a lot of pumps needed to be primed with water to do the job, but this on needs just the opposite. I don't know why it works, but it does.

I've had quite a few fish tanks over the years. :drowning: Usually there's air bubbles trapped in the pump and filter. When putting it in (e.g After cleaning the tank) you rotate it around a bit under the water to get out the bubbles, then you use the suction cups to hold it onto the side of the tank. Each one varies but usually it needs around the top quarter to protrude above water level to work efficiently. Only after this is done plug it in. You can usually judge the amount above water by the join between the motor housing and the filter box but yours is probably just a basic decorative pump and no filter, but should still be able to judge by looking at it. Also the suction cups provided almost never hold the pump tight enough, but since your buying/bought them just get bigger ones. :)

Stephen or Steve

How do you tell the machine where to engrave? Do you tell it where the center of the design is or tell it where the lower left corner is? Any update on cutting vectors?

Hi Stephen, diarmaid, txcowdog (and the rest of the gang)

We can't be the only ones receiving these units who have had to "wrestle" with them to get them to work. I wonder how many of these units have been sold to folks who have neither the time nor desire to fix them - in other words, how many of these units are just sitting DOA. It would be nice if Ink Express made some effort to support the models that they sell and to try and improve them. I know we have made suggestions.

But I wonder where Ink Express sits in the supply chain. If they are just a vendor, then perhaps they have little pull with the manufacturer. I doubt we will ever really know.

As far as the software goes, it would be really nice if there were a way to control the machine with other software. I am not saying it is impossible, but it will be a challenge to find something that will work.

The moshidraw software is unique in how it controls the electronics. The only hope would be if one of the other low cost engravers uses the exact same board. Then perhaps their software might work, like NewlySeal or one of the others.

I have asked Ink Express and Moshi for a way to control the IE300 from outside of their software. Moshi has stated to me that it would be possible to make a control that was more like a printer driver. In this way, you could send data to the driver from other programs to the driver, which would then send data thru the parallel port to the engraver. But you would still be reliant on the way in which his driver interpreted your drawings.

His raster based scanning algorythm seems to be optimized for engraving and seems to work for simple outlines (vectors)

But, where a plotter doesn't try to interpret vectors (it would just do x1,y1 x2,y2 x3,y3 etc) moshidraw does appear to try to interpret vectors. Luckily, a work-around exists. So I am cutting gears and such. But there is very little control. Let's say I want to cut out a ring, like a washer. Easy, right? Just 2 concentric circles. If it were a plotter, I would program the inner circle first and the outer circle last. Now let's say I take that same .PLT file into moshi. It appears on the screen as 2 concentric circles. I go into output. At that point, I have no control over what it is going to do. If it cuts the outer circle first, then the circle could fall away and never cut the inner circle. This is because it has a raster based scanning algorythm and the first thing it runs into as it is scanning the image left to right, top to bottom, is the outer ring.

My only work-around for more complex vectors is to make every individual piece of my graphic into different .plt files Then import them one at a time in the order I want them to cut and actually make the cut. Then go and import the next bit and so on. Basically, I gotta show it who's boss. As long as I don't jog the cutting window, then everything lines up well and I can cut some pretty detailed stuff.

I have also asked Moshi for a detailed description of the datastream that gets sent to the engraver. The whole deal. What pins on the parallel port control what part of the engraver and so on. If we knew exactly what data the engraver unit was expecting, then it would be possible to control it from outside their software. Then we wouldn't have to rely on his interpretation of our drawings. But then, of course, we would have to come up with our own software...not impossible, just challenging.

As to whether or not this is pirated software, I really doubt it. As Stephen has pointed out, it just isn't very good. If they were going to steal something, I would imagine that they would steal from the standards that are used in the industry, like Corel, for example.

For now it works and I am lasing, for less than $1500 but knowing it should be better...

Hi Everybody,
Right now I have not used my laser for a couple of days. I got very discouraged a couple of days ago while trying to figure out the actual engraving area. I was setting up rectangles, increasing them in size a little at a time to see how far I could go in each direction. If I went past a certain point, the unit would get stuck and give me the machine gun sound at which point I would shut down the machine. When I powered back up, sometimes the unit would reset to home, and sometimes it would go nowhere. I would hear a soft click when I hit the power button, but nothing would move. When this happened, I would leave the machine off for about an hour. When I powered up again, the laser head would go home. I dont know if the stepper motors were shutting down due to overheating or what. The first time this shutdown, I thought I had killed the machine. But the next morning it worked again.
sidi_steve, I remember you describing your initial over travel problem when you powered up ofr the first time. You said that you found that the limit switch just needed to be bent back a little in order to make contact when the laser head reached the end of its travel. I'm sure thats one of my problems, but I have been unable to find any kind of limit switch to adjust. Did you need to disasemble anything to access this part?
The other thing I found after I had this problem, was that when I cut an oval shape the laser head went around twice and the two ovals created didnt aligh with each other. Also while making the cut, the machine made a kind of grinding sound as it was cutting the area around the side areas. It almost sounds as if there is either a tooth missing or damaged on either the stepper gear, or a bad tooth on the belt.
I wish I knew more about how these things were set up. If I did, I would do my best to open it up and make adjustments so that the limit switches and belts were properly adjusted. I can't help but feel that if I'm hearing grinding or machinegun noise, there is damage being done. I wan't to make this laser better, not worse!
I'm going to play with it a little today, and see if I can make any progress. Tonight I have to pack it up to bring it to Vermont where I spend most of my time. I sure would like to get this thing running properly. Even if it will only have a very small work area functioning, I could probably make a few bucks with it up there. As usual, I will keep you all posted. The saga of the IE300 goes on.

Stephen Parkinson
smparkinson@hotmail.com

If it cuts the outer circle first, then the circle could fall away and never cut the inner circle.
I might be misunderstanding the operation of the machine, but if its on a level surface nothing should move during cutting, even without being held down, since all that is in contact with the object being cut is light rays which wont have any directed force to 'push' any pieces. Hence, it shouldn't matter which circle is cut first. Am I wrong here?

Say in sidi_steve's example of cutting a washer, you were to cut the outer circle first. As the circle is being cut, your are removing material around it. When you come to the end of the cut, the cut piece will shift slightly as it lets go of the material it was cut from. Even if the material is supported fully and evenly, there will be a slight shift in it's position. The inner piece will than not be exactly alligned for the second cut, so the second cut will be slightly off. If the material being cut is supported by a vacuum table, this effect would be very slight, and would probably be acceptable.
When doing vector cuts, it is really preferable to have the material being cut supported by a grid or screen type of base. That allows the laser to cut cleanly through the work and allows smoke to be vented away from the work. This helps to prevent smoke residue from forming on the piece. When using this type of base, the work is very likely to shift into the gaps between the grids, making it very likely that cut pieces will shift when they are cut. In fact small pieces will tend to fall into those gaps. By cutting the inside pieces first, and working your way out, the cut pieces will shift without causing the the outside cuts to be affected.
I found this out the hard way a long time ago when I had my GCC Mercury. That machine had a driver that allowed you to assign the order in which multi cut jobs were cut. I sure wish I could have a similar driver to use in my IE300!
In regard to sidi_steve's comment about where Ink Express sits in the supply chain of the machines it sells, I think it is probably one guy who buys these machines from the manufacturer as he receives the orders. There is nothing wrong with that, but it doesn't put him in the position to make changes in the software.
I think that when you find the company with the lowest price, you might have found the manufacturer. This may or may not be true, but it makes sense to me. The company with the lowest price I have found so far is as follows:

From : Saleen From Guangzhou Yinghe Equipment Co.
Dear Stephen ,
Thank you for interesting in our products .
According to your requests , i will offer you as follow ,
Laser Stamp Carve Machine US$:800
delivery time: within 3--5 days you could received the cargo after you T/T the money .
shipping cost: US$ 310
sowfware : Moshi

If this not the manufacture, than they are a distributor who is making a profit. If thats the case, I wonder what price you could get these for from the actual manufacturer. Maybe $500.? At that price, you could almost look at it as a preassembled parts kit, and someone who knew what they were doing could take one of these units an maybe make it into something really useful. I can tell you from the little bit I have used mine, the laser tube seem to put out quite a bit of energy. And what would you have to pay an American company for just a 40 watt laser tube with power supply? See what I'm getting at?
I'm going to start trying to learn what I can about these machines. I mean, wouldn't it be possible to use some of the main components to build a larger scale laser engraver/cutter? I wouldn't mind tearing mine apart if I knew how to do that. Something to think about.

Stephen Parkinson
smparkinson@hotmail.com

I'm going to start trying to learn what I can about these machines. I mean, wouldn't it be possible to use some of the main components to build a larger scale laser engraver/cutter? I wouldn't mind tearing mine apart if I knew how to do that. Something to think about.

:) Thats a really good and interesting idea. I've been thinking about it for a while but didn't want to suggest to anyone after spending over 1k on a new machine that they tear it apart. Im sure you could use the knowledge on this site to simply build a cnc table with regular stepper motors, and strip the laser parts from your IE300. I dont know how fast the laser cuts re. inches per min, but you could run it real slow if necessary. Because there's no friction and drag from a cutting piece in contact with the material you wont need a lot of torque, so very small (And inexpensive) steppers would probably do fine. You could probably then use something like Mach3 to run the table and either control the laser power seperately like turning on a router before starting the cut program, or link it into the program somehow by hyjacking the control lines in the software that you would usually use for a plasma torch. Is there some sort of laser height control in the IE300 you could strip out? If needed maybe you could use/adapt a digital plasma torch height control to control the height of the laser, although these are quite expensive, but whats another few hundred $ if you could set it up as a 4' x 4' or 4' x 8' table.....then in a few years simply upgrade your power supply and laser cathode to a higher wattage if you want to, the possibilities are endless. Light travels to infinity, so maybe you dont need height control at all, a few mm difference in height may not change the beam focus enough to need it, you probably know more about that than me. Eureka....simple!!.........now what are the potential problems?...QUICK reply....Im on the edge of my seat.... :wee:

If your serious about this when you've found enough info to give it a go start a new thread to get the info from those with the relevant electronic & cnc building experience. ACTUALLY.....Maybe start a thread now to get ideas, snags, suggestions and input.

Im living vicariously through you and your IE300....I love it! :D

...also this smells of reverse engineering. Im facinated by reverse engineering. :)

Hi Diarmaid,

I really don't know a lot about motion control, but I had exchanged some info and ideas a short time ago in this thread with sidi_steve, and he gave me a little info to work with. At that time I was just interested in changing out the electronics so that I could use better software. He told me that basically it was a matter of:

1) having control to the tool paths, and
2) having a control to turn the laser on and off as dictated by the design requirements of the file being used.

Of course, he explained it in terms where I understood the basic concept, but the technical details were somewhat lost on me. I was kind of hoping it would be a mater of purchasing the right control circuit boards and plug them, like adding a modem card to your PC. Unfortunately from what he told me, it's a little more complicated than that, although it could be done.
And thats what got started me thinking about using the existing components to build a larger laser engraver. Im sure there are limits, but I don't see why couldn't build a machine with a work surface of say 24" x 36". It would be basically the same as building the gantry for a cnc machine. Anyway, that's the concept. Like I said, I need to start doing some homework and see what it would take to make it happen.

Stephen Parkinson
smparkinson@hotmail.com

I was reading this thread with one of two ideas 1: buy this smaller machine and convert it via gantry laser or 2: buy a larger machine for 3k-5k (which is still a 1/5 of the price of a localy available machine)

The first option is looking like the one I will be taking as then I will have complete control of how it will cut via mach3. It has already been done and all the infor for it is here:

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7427

option 2 is still open to me but looking less likely do to freight shipping. It takes 35-40 days (i am told) and you have to pick your stuff up at the docs (as I have never done this, it sounds intimdating) and after paying the 3-5k you have to wait so long to see if your screwed is a big down side.

So I will probably follow pauls example with the exception of buying a prebuild unit and canabalizing the parts.

Hey miljnor, the info in that thread link is great. What a build! Theres also some very useful links for suppliers of parts.

Did you see the laser gun link ;)....I have GOT to get me a Laser Ray Gun!!!!!!! (flame2) :bat: hehehe :D

What? you don't already have one? :D

I have been vaporizing the competition for some time now! (flame2) Can't let anyone thinking I'm a nice guy now can we? (chair)


:cheers:

I was just re-reading the specs on the units from redsail, On the 3040a and the 6090 and it looks like the 3040a (smaller unit) my use a similar interface to what has been discused here (nothing new) but the bigger units come with a PCI card interface (which IS something new)

still waiting to hear back from leo Hopefully will have more information soon.

Also just clicking around the redsail sight I found this:

http://www.hflaser.com/wsyzj.html

which looks Identical to the ink express machine. So you might be able to get that machine for less than the 3040a Through these guys.

Thats an interesting one, although Im not sure of the difference between a regular laser engraver and a laser engraver specifically for seals....

It should be cheaper than the IE300, the cutting area is smaller. It also has a slower cutting speed and area than the 3040A. It doesn't say what type of files the Centronics Interface can handle, this might be interesting to know, anyone have any ideas?

If its not cheaper than the IE300 then I suppose you'd have to decide if your willing to sacrifice cutting area for the same cash in the hope of better service and quality.

Thanks for that miljnor, I hadn't seen it yet. Although its a bit too small a cutting area for me it might be of use to someone else. Im going to e-mail them and get a price and the file formats it can handle, just so the info's here if anyone needs it in future.

Bye for now. :)

I am actually looking into getting the 6090a but Haven't ordered it yet. the shipping time still throws me off.

But then building one would probably take me a year as I haven't really had enough time to even finish my mill yet. (got to stop building RC airplanes! :D)

miljnor:
Did you get a price yet for the 6090a?

What is the shipping time and what part of the world are you in? (I forgot to ask about this)

the 6090A is 4750.00 and shipping is 320.00 to Long beach harbor in California

estimated travel time is 35-40days

Not a bad price (if it arrives in one piece) the time to delivery was bumming me out but if I build it the time will be much longer. And I doubt the cost will be that much better (because I do everything a little overboard). I think I am going to order one tomarow after I get the damages from the plumber who is fixing my house

ooo...plumbers....expensive.....hope the old heart holds out when you get the 'good' news!

Can't wait for you to order, give us the full run down on how it goes and after it has arrived, it'll be good to compare the service to Ink Express.

Thanks and happy ordering. :)

still at minimum 36 days for delivery so it will be awhile!

Old heart? damn I am not that old! If I wasn't married I could probably still get the young girls! :D

but don't say anything to the miss's! ;)

:cheers:

Hi sidi_steve,
Well, my ie300 is now in Vermont with me, although not yet unpacked. But before packing it up, I just had to try to work out the bugs I was having with it.
First, I figured out how to set a relative home for the laser head, than I determined what my actual maximum work area was. I did this by trial and error with setting up page sizes. If I went too large, the head would go to the end of it's travel and make the machine gun noise, whereupon I would shut down the machine. When I powered up again, the head would go to home and I would start up again with a new page size. I don't have the exact size info in front of me, but I ended up with a work area about 7.75" x 10.5". I can live with that since I was thinking in terms of 8.5" x 11" when I bought the machine. Anyway, When I start at my relative home position with my maximum page size, everything starts working. A couple of things I did figure out were that if I am rastering I set it at maximum speed, but vectoring needs to be set at a speed of from 1 to 15 depending on what I am cutting. If I try to set it to fast for small circles or small fonts, the quality really suffers and the laser head seems to be fighting with itself to maintain position. Put another way, it seems like the X and the Y motion controls are somewhat overlapping and causing them to interfere with each other. Slowing down the speed seems to eliminate this problem, and the results seem to be pretty good. Now for my questions.

1) When setting speeds, there are 2 boxes to set them in. 1st and 2nd. Can you explain why there are 2 speeds? I thought maybe there was one speed for raster and one for vector, but it seems to me that I have to pick between the two. I haven't been able to make the laser do both in one job. If I have a file that calls for both raster and vector, I have to do it in two steps. First, output without outline, than output with the outline box checked.

2) Anytime I vector output, it always does the vector twice. I havent been able to figure out how to make it trace only once.

3) The most important thing that I havent been able to figure out, is how to import a filr from outside Moshidraw. No matter what I try to open within Moshidraw, I always get an error message telling me that the file is too big. I even tried to open a .plt file that consisted of one streight line, ans it still tells me it's too big. I could learn to live with some of the other quirks of this program, but I have tp be able to bring in graphics in order to do anything creative with this machine.

As usual, I very much appreciate any help you could offer. I'm sure you are right when you speculated about other people outside of this forum buying IE300's, but it sure seems like you and I have been shipwrecked with only each other on this island!

Stephen Parkinson
smparkinson@hotmail.com

but it sure seems like you and I have been shipwrecked with only each other on this island!
Stephen Parkinson

Im here in spirit.....or maybe in a ship just off shore eating steak, drinking champagne, and observing your predicament!! :D :rolleyes:

"eating steak, drinking champagne" sounds a awful lot like you got a better engraver. Come on down with us tightwads ans drop some change. A few nickels and dimes is all it takes to own a ie300

Hi Miljnor,
Im not telling you how to spend your hard earned cash, but if it was me I'd spend the extra $300. and get the 6090c with the 260mm upand down plate. It might give you some additional flexability in your work. My GCC Mercury had that feature, and it allowed for good beam focus at different depths of whatever I was working on. Either way though, I am envious of your choice of machine. It sounds like a heck of a laser for the price.

actually I was going to get that as well but leo failed to quote that option to me.

still got to wait for the plumber to drop the hammer so to speak, it is taking a little longer than estimated (of course)

"eating steak, drinking champagne" sounds a awful lot like you got a better engraver. Come on down with us tightwads ans drop some change. A few nickels and dimes is all it takes to own a ie300

If only I had a yacht...then I could sell it and afford to buy a nice laser engraver :D. But for now the yacht, champagne and laser are only in the pipeline, and the pipeline for a yacht is more of a pipe dream!! :rolleyes: I might stretch to some steak for dinner though. ;)

Hi guys I have been reading this forum for a few days now and have decided I want one of the ie300 laser machines. Maby try it at photo engraving like I did with my cnc router. I will be orderning one of the inexpencive machines in a few days. crossing my fingers it is not damaged in shipping.

Good Luck Aksess hope all goes well,
Please keep us updated. :)

Hey Stephen -

I'll give it a go...

1) I am not sure why Moshi has 2 speeds. I wondered if speed1 was the top speed and if speed2 was an acceleration value. I guess I am no help on that one...

2) Vectors cutting twice... I am not certain, without seeing what you are trying to cut, why you are having this problem. First let me ask a dumb question...Is it really cutting the same thing twice? Or, in the case of a circle, is it cutting the outside of the circle, then the inside? If you could save out the file you are ttrying to cut and send it to me, perhaps I can see what is going on.

3) Importing files...."file is too big"...hmmm. I have gotten this error message, too. But only when the pictures were really too big. Or in the case of .PLT files, if any of the X or Y values were greater than the size of the image. When creating a new "seal" in moshi, the rectangle you create has to be larger than the pictures you wish to import.

Try this:

1 - create a new seal in Moshi with a size of 100mm x 100mm

2 - copy the following lines into notepad or wordpad (NOT WORD) and save as gearTest.PLT

IN;
VS10;
SP1;
PU381,368;
PD381,368;
PD368,368;
PU;
PU1618,1618;
PD1618,1618;
PD1618,1631;
PU;
PU1016,1381;
PD1016,1381;
PD1049,1314;
PD1064,1236;
PD1086,1228;
PD1144,1283;
PD1210,1318;
PD1237,1298;
PD1225,1225;
PD1190,1153;
PD1204,1134;
PD1283,1144;
PD1357,1133;
PD1368,1101;
PD1314,1049;
PD1244,1011;
PD1244,988;
PD1314,950;
PD1368,898;
PD1357,866;
PD1283,855;
PD1204,865;
PD1190,846;
PD1225,774;
PD1237,701;
PD1210,681;
PD1144,716;
PD1086,771;
PD1064,763;
PD1049,685;
PD1016,618;
PD983,618;
PD950,685;
PD935,763;
PD913,771;
PD855,716;
PD789,681;
PD762,701;
PD774,774;
PD809,846;
PD795,865;
PD716,855;
PD642,866;
PD631,898;
PD685,950;
PD755,988;
PD755,1011;
PD685,1049;
PD631,1101;
PD642,1133;
PD716,1144;
PD795,1134;
PD809,1153;
PD774,1225;
PD762,1298;
PD789,1318;
PD855,1283;
PD913,1228;
PD935,1236;
PD950,1314;
PD983,1381;
PD1016,1381;
PU;PU;SP0;

3 - Now go into Moshi - click on Image at the top - click on Image in the drop down - and then click in the drawing area (your 100mm x 100mm rectangle ). This should open the import dialogue. Select the gearTest.PLT

Hopefully, this plt should fit nicely within the drawing area. You can go to the image "regulater" on the left and type in 50 in the X box and 50 in the Y box and this should center the gear in the box.

Please let me know if this works.

Steve

Hey Stephen -

In my last post, when I said "create a new seal" I meant to use this option:

(2)New empty：open a new plain working area - this will give you the option to create any size area you like - for this test, make it 100mm x 100mm

Good luck

Steve

Does the ie300 machine compinsate for grey scale immages? meaning does it automaticly adjust the power for engraving a grey scale, going deeper the darker the line. How do you tell the machine where to engrave? Do you tell it where the center of the design is or tell it where the lower left corner is?

Hi Sidi_steve,

I appreciate your info, and I'll give your gear file a try when I get things set up again. On the subject of cutting vectors twice, it happened with any vector I set up, even just a simple streight line. Once I get going again, I'll figure it out.
One good piece of news regarding Ink Express. They now have the Moshidraw manual available in their download section. I gave it a quick look, than printed it out. Its 21 pages, and it looks like there will be soma good info in there. I glanced in the pages about importing images, and I think by using the manual along with your info while I'm actually using the machine, I'll be able to figure it out. I think you have to be a little creative in your interpretation of their instructions, as the translations are sometimes confusing.
I think you and I are the Lewis and Clark in the unexplored lands of Moshidraw and the ie300. But ya know, I actually think this will turn out to be a pretty good little piece of equipment when it all shakes out. Thanks again, and I'll keep you all posted!

Stephen Parkinson
smparkinson@hotmail.com

Hi Aksess,

You may want to wait a little while before getting an ie300, or maybe you would like to join us explorers and get your feet wet. I paid $999. (& $279. shipping) for mine. I know there are other companies offering similar laser units for less. On the other hand, you know that sidi_steve and myself have both purchased ours from Ink Express, and the fact that we at least received our units might give you a little extra comfort as opposed to ordering from another company. You have to make the call on that.
As you probably know from reading our postings that we both had some minor headachs in getting our machines up and running. In both our cases we had to deal with problems with the power supply being broken when we received them. I also had to replace the exhaust fan that came with mine, and I got no "after the sale" help from Ink Express. But I have to say, that for around $1,300. total, I still think it's a pretty good deal. As far as Ink Express goes, they shipped it super fast and they didn't vanish into thin air after getting my money. And frankly, I didn't really expect much help from them after the sale.
Anyway, I wish you all the best if you decide to spend your money on one of these lasers. Do your homework and check out what else is out there though. If I had to do it again, I think I would have probably gone for the model 3040 from Redsail. It's about double the price, and offers about double the work area of the ie300. And they use a different software called Easycut, which sounds like its a lot better than Moshidraw, which comes with the ie300. From what I've been able to find out, Easycut is from Germany, and their English version is probably pretty good. Best of luck!

Stephen Parkinson
smparkinson@hotmail.com

if your not comfortable with Inkexpress and want to try another redsail has that same unit as I posted earlier. Don't know the price but here is the post I made earlier:


Also just clicking around the redsail sight I found this:

http://www.hflaser.com/wsyzj.html

which looks Identical to the ink express machine. So you might be able to get that machine for less than the 3040a Through these guys.

They use a differntly named program so it might offer a differnt maybe bettter solution. but then again maybe not.

I am waiting on redsail to contact me. I inquired last week but my isp's mail server has been dow this weekend :boxing: . They said they will refer me to their canada sales and they will contact me. I hope my mail is fixed today.

Here is an update hxsun contacted me the HX40A FOB: 900USD
Air-express to the Memphis: 260USD
Cutting and engraqving area is smaller.

ink express replyed to my concirns

I will be ordering a machine within the next 2 weeks a few more questions. I talked to a couple of people that had bought one and when they had received them they were damaged. I am highly concerned on this. Any way to package it a little better? Also when engraving a photo or bitmap image does the laser automatically adjust power on grey scale images? Darker for more grey and lighter to none for white?


Dear Sir,

We already use new package box from this week.

It can automatically adjust power on grey scale images.

Just an update I think I will give ink express a try. unless hxsun makes me a heck of a deal on a 3040a It is a little out of my fund range.

Hi Aksess,
At least with Ink Express you have a reasonable expectation of actually getting your machine. Maybe they will do a little better with packing your power converter. I had to replace mine, but at $50. it wasn't too bad a loss. The machine itself was packed well enough, so it'll probably be OK.
I paid by doing a TT (telegraphic transfer) of funds from my bank to Ink Express's bank, and I got my machine one week later. If they get your's to you that quickly you'll be doing well. Remember, it may get delayed by Customs, but than again it may not. No way to know about that until it happens. Ink Express will email you with a tracking number so you can keep an eye on it. Mine was shipped by DHL, and they got it to me pretty fast.
Once you're up and running, feel free to let me know if you have any questions. I'm no expert, but if I can help you let me know. Best of luck!

Stephen Parkinson
smparkinson@hotmail.com

PS - The bank transfer fee was $45. from my bank. It may be a little more or a little less from yours.

I apreciate the offer and I will call on youall if I need assistiance. Should be a piece of cake to operate since I already had a k2cnc. did all my learning on it lol tell I am from the south? spelling sux lol :cheers:

Hi Aksess,
I'm a Yankee myself, but lived half my life south of the Mason Dixon line. Youall down south are fine freindly folks, and I've made more than a few friends down home. Now if youall could make a good pizza I might never go back up north. I actually have the best of both worlds, 'cause I live in Florida with my wife and kids, and I work in Vermont. Funny thing though. They don't know how to make a good pizza up here either, so I have to find an excuse to stop in to New York every once in a while.
Anyway, you're way ahead of me if you do CNC. I'm a wysiwyg kind of guy myself. If I can ever get my IE300 laser to work with Coreldraw, I'll be a happy southern yankee pizza eatin' son of a........(they don't allow my colorful language here) Best of luck to you, and youall have a great July 4th!

Stephen Parkinson
smparkinson@hotmail.com

check out my photo section here. A few things I learned on my cnc router.

Hi Aksess,
I'm interested in seeing your cnc work, but I don't see a link for it. Am I missing something, other than good pizza?

Here is the link for here on the zone http://www.cnczone.com/gallery/showgallery.php/cat/500/ppuser/4456

Hi Aksess,
Great stuff! I remember the first time I saw some photo engraving done with cnc, and I couldn't believe it. After carving, do you do any paint fill, or does the image look that great right off your router? I have a feeling that I'm going to end up getting a router one of these days. I hope you can do stuff that good with your laser when you get it. By the way, do you make any money doing that kind of work, or is it just a hobby for you? Anyway, thanks for sharing your art!
Stephen Parkinson
smparkinson@hotmail.com

Hey Aksess,

That is some WAY nice work! Absolutely incredible what your are doing with your CNC router.

I am so tempted to try this on my router, but I can't even begin to imagine how long it would take. Approx, what kinda inches per minute does your machine run at and what kinda time does it take to produce one of your pictures (I can't really tell what size they are)

Keep up the good work

Steve

que maquina utilizas para hacer el gravado en madera, ando en musca de una que no sea tan cara y se pueda adaptar a un cnc router....vi una pero es de rusia o no se que pais...............

mis fotos de trabajos realizados

mys pictures

The photocarving takes anywhere from 1-4 hours running at 200 ipm. The sizes are around a 8x10. They are finished by rubbing stain on them then wiping it off quick. All this is mostly a hobby for me. That is why I am wanting a laser you can do the same thing lots faster. I think I am going to get the Redsail 3040A model they have made me feel confident on my purchase. It will be about 2 weeks before I can send them the money but I will keep youall informed.

mi nombre es fernando torres, actualmente tengo un equipo de corte y grabado con router, pero deseo saber si alguien conoce donde conseguir un laser que se pueda adaptar a un equipo router.?

no hablo español

No sé de la mano, sino que tengo sierra alguien el hablar convirtiendo su rebajadora a un laser aquí en la zona. Intentar la búsqueda y puedes encontrar lo que estás buscando.

I just joined this forum and I find it extreemly helpful

I am about to order a bigger machine from hx laser or inkExpress and I want to know if there is any more information available at this date (I read all your posts and I appreciate the information)

Also they are charging me $550 to upgrade to a 80 watt laser. they claim that they need to change the power supply, will I be ahead if I buy the power supply in the US or Canada?

will the power supply for the 80 watt also be able to handle a 60 watt tube?

they are also suggesting that a 80 watt may be to strong for my application
(engraving) but when I asked them again, they say "it should be OK"
Is there a problem? does anybody know?

They were very unclear in their answers. I dont understand them and they dont understand me, so maybe someone here can help me clear this up

Thank you in advance

I personally am going to order from hflaser myself. You have a rep in canada.

Leo Shi
Redsail Tech Co.,Ltd (Canada)
http://www.hflaser.com
Tel: +1-416-4419834
Fax: +1-416-4419834
Forgot his e-mail address redsailshop@yahoo.ca

He has been very helpful in my decision. Tell him Dwight said to call. I am ordering the RS3040A which is just a 40 watt machine but will do all I want to. all a higher wattage machine will do is cut thicker material in a single pass and engrave deeper. Nothing you cant do with 40 watts and multiple passes.

when I spoke to the people in canada they did not seem knowledgeable at all!

As far as I understand the power can be adjusted to either increase or decrease the depth of engraving/cutting. Hence an 80W laser could cut deeper but could also cut very shallow by using a lower power setting. I dont know though if all machines have this facility but I imagine they would. You should email the seller and ask if the power setting is adjustable.

Laser tubes come up on e-bay now and again but you might be waiting for the correct wattage. A google search revealed this address, but you'll have to e-mail them for a price.

http://www.ulsinc.com/co2laser/

I've seen sites in the US selling 40W laser tubes for $800+, so you might be getting a good deal, but I cant be sure.

Sorry I wasn't more helpful. Please keep us informed on your purchase and how it goes with the final product.
L8rs.

these are glass tube lasers, my question is on the power supply, can I get a power supply here that would let me upgrade my laser later, and how much will it cost?

This page has interesting info for all. Didn't have time to filter through it re. power supply.

http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/laserlps.htm#lpssfl

HeY! Wheres everyone gone? Aksess have you ordered? How did it go so far? SidiSteve....how you doing...any nice new cuts? Steve parkinson, please update us on your progress? Milnjor did you order?:)

I was waiting on some extra money. I will be sending the money next wednesday to Redsail for an 80 watt 3040A I will let youall know how it goes. I have spoke with a fine gentleman in Portland Oregon that has ordered several machines from Redsail and inkexpress. He has nothing but good to say about Redsail but for inkexpress he hates them with a passion. He has had no trouble receiving the machines but after sales support is the worst. Anyway I am planning to receive my machine the first of August when my vacation starts! YEE HAW 2 weeks off to play with new laser. I hope.

Do you mind if I ask how much extra the 80W tube cost instead of the standard 40W tube? Thanks and good luck with it. :)

$400 - $500 but I am swore to secrecy

I've been in the process of moving and my laser has been packed away. I'm hoping to be in a new place within the next week or so. My laser will be the first thing I set up, and I am hoping for decent results. Before it was packed I had figured out how to set up for maximum size work area. If it has limit switches, they weren't working, and the laser head /gantry would keep trying to go beyond it's travel, making that grinding machine sound. Than it wouldn't work for about an hour or so. I think the servo motors were heating up and stoping for a while would let them cool enough to reset. I have no idea if that is really what was happening, but they always worked again after a rest. I figured the best way to deal with it was to set up a page/work area that would just stop short of the head's maximum travel. That technique seemed to work, and I ended up with a usuable work area about 8" x 10.5". By the time I got that figured out, it was time to pack it up, so I havent worked with it since than. I have, however fooled around a little with the Moshedraw software. I figured out how to import graphics into it, but the ability to manipulate them within Moshedraw is minimal, and without trying to actually laser them I don't know how well they will work out in real life. Anyway, I set up a few small jobs to laser as soon as I am up and running, probably within the next week or so. I'll keep you posted!
Steve Parkinson
smparkinson@hotmail.com

Aksess,

I am in the market for a laser also and have followeded this htread with some interest. What was your reason for going with Redsail? Will their machine cut a vector? What is the delivered price for the machine you ordered? What is the cutting/engraving area of your machine. What about thickness of the part you are engraving? Does the machine have a way to accomodate 2" thick pieces? Thanks for all the info... greatly appreciated.

Personal recomendations from people that have dealt with both companys is what swayed a part of it. It can cut vectors the 3040A I will tell you the price after I receive the machine cutting /engraving area is 11"x15.7" and 2.4" maximum material thickness. I hope this help a little.

Hi. I started the thread at the link below before I found this one. Im wondering if theres any way to combine the two threads into one for ease of referance?

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20332&page=1&pp=15

Im curious....engraving is fine....but can any of these machines we've discussed 'cut' glass aswell? Maybe using multiple passes. Can a laser even cut glass at all or is it never used for this?

diarmaid,
I am in the business of workking with glass and lasers. We us the laser to etch a company logo onto glass and use it as an award or gift. The laser has enough power to "rough up" the surface of the glass so that the logo is clearly visible but it does not have the power necessary to actually cut the glass. My opinion is that it would take an industrial laser to actually generate the necessary heat to cut glass.

If by industrial you mean 30 watts or so, then yes, it takes that much to cut (thin) glass.

Unless you are talking about 1/2" thick stuff or something...

But the problem is the glass usually cracks....people have done things to get around this a bit I think.

I should have clarified... I meant 3/4" thick as that is what we work with. I did not think of other thicknesses as I guess it is possible to cut thinner glass but even cutting 3/4" acrylic takes 100 watts to cut in one pass. Even though I have no experience in cutting glass and only seeing what can be done in etching with a 40 watt laser, I do not think 20 watts will do anything more than haze the top surface of any thickness.

Here is an update on 3040A saga. lol First off I had trouble at my branch bank today transfering the money for the machine, The young dummys had no idea how to do it. I got mad. left called the main bank and they were much helpful they did the transfer for me without me halfing to go in. I just sighned a piece of paper and scanned it then e-mailed it to them for aproval. The money has left the country. I was informed it will prob ship monday from china with an aprox shipping time frame of 5-8 days. I will continue to update on the laser project.

Looking forward to many pictures and test results. Thanks for being the guinea pig.

Congrats Aksess. :) Looking forward to seeing how it goes.

Thank you. I can hardly wait! I figure I will get it the week of the 7'th of August I hope so anyway that is when I have scheudled my vacation :wee:

Just a quick update RedSail received my money yesterday and have shiped my machine. I hope to have it by next Thursday or Friday! I will keep youall informed. :cheers:

I really dont know who is more in suspense and looking forward for your input, but at least I am at the edge of my chair waititing for your comments about this laser. Just a comment I have a ploter for the same company RED SAIL and it is working very good, I would say extremely good considering the price.

I received the way bill this morning! It has been put on a plane headed to me! They didnt get it to the airport in time for customs inspection Friday. But I was ashured I would still get it this week Thursday Maby Friday.

I don't know how many of these they sell to individualls over hear but I told leo I was holding off ording until you got yours. So hopefully they will treat you with kid gloves.

Although the one I am ording has to come by slow boat do to freight charges (airborn would cost more than the engraver). Hopefully this gives everyone a sample of thier customer service (hopefully good).

Here are the results so far on the airbill

Segment PEK to EWR
70 kilograms booked on flight CO0088 on 08AUG from PEK to EWR <-- Best I figure PEK is China to Newark N.J

Segment EWR to ORD
70 kilograms booked on flight CO1328 on 08AUG from EWR to ORD <-- Newark N.J. to Chicago

Segment ORD to BNA
70 kilograms booked on flight CO5284 on 09AUG from ORD to BNA <--- Chicago To Nashville
Then I pick up hopfully Thursday :cheers: :banana: :wee:

Great Aksess, cant wait to see it! :) Do you have a digital camera handy to get us some pics asap ;)

I shure do and have new batterys! :D

Yea... I'm about to come out of my skin in anticipation of pictures and the first cut.

My IE300 arrived some days ago, and the hardware problems I have had are similar to sidi_steve and smparkinson.

But they have also been solved in one way or the other, so the only thing left is trying to make the software control the laser. Which is not the easiest task, apparently.

When I start the machine, the laser head moves to the upper left corner. So far, so good. I then try to click the file moshidrv. This makes the laser for some reason go to the bottom left part of the machine and make some strange noise. If i don´t turn it off, it will then after a short while move to the bottom right part and make more terrible noise (here I turn it off).

I turn off and on the laser again (laser head moves to upper left corner again) and opens the software. Choose "Options" and then LPT1 and press apply.
This makes the laser head move ~5 cm to the right, back to the left, back to right and so on, untill I turn it off or change to COM1.

Can´t figure out what is wrong which is pretty frustrating.
Any help would be appreciated :)

EDIT: The usb dongle is inserted all the time during the process

EDIT2: I can include a movie of the problem in a couple of hours

Well another update. I dont know if this is the companys fault or shipping company Now I am told my machine wont arive for my pickup untill Friday at 11 am now This crap with the shipping company is really pissing me off now.

You purchase 3040A?
From China to American 3-7 day,FOB$1000
This machine comes from China,The laser glass price is $150
Has very many all uses EMS,TNT customs.

Certainly this is one kind,Also some one performance good,
The price is $1900,His internal electrical machinery,Electric circuit,The software function very is all outstanding.The glass pipe still was $150,The outward appearance is same,But the internal structure difference is huge,For instance the lens life is big one time.I am very regrettable,,A very essential question,Is its mean repair time big 150 days,US and the European do not understand China's LASER.

No the 3040A is the higher priced one, It sells for $2000 fob. The DK40A from redsail sells for $900 plus $270 shipping to your door.

This is not the commercial advertizing,I am willing to provide the price reference for everybody,This is the Chinese FOB reference price,The transportation price may moreover discuss,
Deducts the middle merchant's money,You may have more discounts in the Chinese direct purchase,The service extremely is also rapid.

200*150mm40Wa:
200*150mm40Wb:

280*400mm40w
500*700mm40w
600*900mm60wa
600*900mm60wb:

1200*600mmDSP60-80W:
1200*800mmDSP60-80W:

1400.1500.1600MMDSP-60-80W:e-MAIL,pm

Het Tikitak
Did you order the IE300 before you found this thread? With all the bad press about Ink Express I don't think I would order from them. I hope you get it running soon. It seems that most people get the machine up and running after some work and hair pulling but working nonetheless. Any update on your progress toward a functional machine? I guess for the good price it would be worth fighting the problems associated with buying from Ink Express. If it is working, what did you have to do to make it functional?

Hi txcowdog

I ordered mine after reading this thread actually.

It seems like the laser head, when I click the file moshidrv.exe, is trying to go more to the downleft than is possible, which would maybe explain the noise it is making. The same thing when it afterwards moves to the right side. Wonder why it moves to the corners by the way...

I´ve only seen sidi_steve and smparkinson ordering this machine. Did any of you two experience this problem when dealing with the software?

When using moshidrv.exe when MoshiDraw was running, the laser head (start position top left) moved to lower left and then right.

But when turning off the machine, closing MoshiDraw, turning on the machine (start at top left again) and trying moshidrv.exe again, the laser head moves instantly to the bottom right (making that terrible noise again) instead of moving to the lower left first.

:S

:(

How much money buy this machine?
Why has the strange sound,I make the similar machine for 10 years,Never has such sound.

Can i help you ?

999 from ink express

I don´t know about the sound, that is why I wonder if anyone else has experienced this problem

The electrical machinery is vibrating?Software establishment mistake?
This machine is 3 years beforehand machine?The new product machine is not this.
Your this machine is very obviously a breakdown,Inquires you the seller.He may provide 365 day-long technical services.

Update for Thursday the 10'th My machine is on the last leg of the trip. I have spent the day on the phone with customs and Brokers, All Brokers tell me to do it myself Customs tells me the Duty rate is 3% of declaired value. Around $50-$60 us and around $25 for cargo fees I am headed tomorrow to pick it up, I hope to have some pictures when I get back tomorrow night!

It's not even mine and I can hardly wait. There is nothing like a new toy even if it belongs to someone else.

UPDATE! I got my machine today! :wee:
First off I had no problems at all with customs. It cost me a total of $12 and change they waived that, All I had to pay was for cargo which was only $25

First off the machine is packed very well. All material and workmanship seem first class,
The software seems pretty easy both raster and vector settings only bad part of software all measurements are metric Easycut 2.0. I still need to power it. The only problem I see is the dang plug on the transformer it still has one of those funky china 3 bladed plugs. Headed to Lowes first thing in the morning to see if they have an adapter, Then aligning the mirrors up and firing the bad boy off. Overall so far I think it is well worth the money.

Woohoo...congrats :). And metric aswell, redsail is getting better and better (For us Europeans! ;) )

Can lower money. Perhaps!

But I think if there is fault, no repair services.

Poof says it all

Can lower money. Perhaps!

But I think if there is fault, no repair services.
Poof says it all

Im not sure what you two are talking about...but I think it might be Ink express.
Aksess is there a problem with your machine?

To mad to even talk about it.

Im not sure what Im looking at exactly.....but Im very sorry...
It looks like a 120V unit was plugged into a 220V socket and fried itself. Either that or the laser lasered itself to death....? :(

he mentioned 3 prong chinees plug. My guess is wrong voltage to the plug.

he mentioned 3 prong chinees plug. My guess is wrong voltage to the plug.
Although I mentioned that too I dont think so, because unless Im mistaken the unit comes with a transformer...or maybe that was only the IE300...

Yes the unit came with a step up step down transformer. I replaced the 3 prong with a standard us one pluged into 110 like book said and 220 out to machine. Unless the instructions were wrong. Even the machine says 220 input. I am not a happy camper.

Whoa, that does not look like an incorrect voltage problem...looks more like there was a hard short (or maybe they have the neutral line grounded and you swapped hot and neutral?). The spiral wrap is totally melted on that wire...it got HOT fast I imagine.

The unit was not fused???

What is the red potted? unit with the char on it and the melted wire across it? Is that the step up transformer? (looks kinda small for that). I am not familiar with this engraver, but perhaps things are not too bad if the short happened before the main electronics board. A little rewiring maybe, and add a fuse in series with your hot line for sure! Probably something around 8 amps would be about right.

Take a lot more pics and post them and we may be able to help you out.

Edit: Looking at the picture again, now I am wondering if that spiral wrapped wire is actually the cathode wire for the laser tube? It looks like the non melted red wire might be the anode wire. The red potted assembly then might be some stage of the HV power supply and perhaps something arced over to the cathode wire causing it to melt starting at that point (notice how the spiral wrap is intact past the point where it may have contacted something in the red potting). Hard to diagnose this with the one pic, but I realize how upset you are after waiting for so long for the engraver.

The part that burnt out is the laser tube power supply China Tech called me last night trying to figure out what went wrong. anyway he thinks the laser tube may have got damaged in shipping and caused the burn out, They are sending me a new tube and power supply via DHL My loss will be the test of their tech support. I had everything hooked up corectly. the machine is 220 powered via step up transformer.

Thats good that he called straight away and is replacing the part. Do you have to pay for the new part and/or shipping?

No parts and shipping is free for the first year. Now that is service! I still do not know what could have burned it out.

Funny thing

thats already better service than inkexpress!

but it would be nice if it was working when you got it!.

Is the laser tube center suppose to have water in it? The center and the outer both have water running through them.

Well this is the forum(CNC Zone in general) where those brave souls risking their hard earned money for something unproven will test product support. This is a new thing developing. Direct retail (one machine at a time) sales from China. I would suggest it would be in Redsail's and other Chinese businesses long term interest to make the tekkies and hobbyists happy on this forum. That is a relatively inexpensive way of buying good will and creating a decent market for their products, a direction that Chinese firms have been reluctant to do in the past. As their economy becomes more interdependent with the US, that's the way it has to go. Yeuming laser has a US rep, Jamieson mfg, but the downside is that the pricing in States vs China is close to double or more. The issue is products sold here are supported here, and have US FDA and UL approvals. Parts are local. Other than that, The extra cost is paying for their sales efforts and overhead.

Well I'm impressed with Redsail. When I make my purchase it will definately be with them instead of Inkexpress. When dealing with an overseas supplier, service after the sale is the deal maker or breaker.

The water you see may not actually be inside the center most tube. It is hard to tell from the pictures, but the way some of these units are made, the outer glass tube holds a large reservoir of the laser gas mixture, the larger inner glass tube is the water cooling jacket and the smallest inner glass tube is where the laser action takes place. This tube is connected to the reservoir of gas through a longer path (usually a spiral wound glass tube near one end) so that the electrical conduction flows down the innermost tube (path of least resistance) and not through the gas reservoir.

Ok, that was probably more than you wanted to know.

Look very close and see if water is actually in the INNER MOST tube. That would of course be bad, as non pure water conducts much better than the laser gas and would most likely short out your HV supply.

I still am thinking your cathode wire shorted against something in the HV power supply potting, based on that pic you posted. Either way, water in the tube or HV power supply short, could put you 6 feet under, so be very carefull when you swap out the parts. It takes a few tens of milliamps through your heart to kill if the voltage is high enough to overcome body resistance, and 20,000 volts at 30mA is plenty of both.

security !!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yes actually water is in the inner tube. When I turn the pump on I can see the bubbles where it trys to fill it completly. The laser tube was loose inside the compartment when I received the machine, It was sort of rattiling around in there. There is nothing I can see where the cathode could have shorted against.

Hi,

What is the price of IE300. I visited the site of inkexpress and there is a $1299 tag. I understood that several people bought for $999. Could you tell me from where is at this price ($999)?

Thank you.

Zoltan

Yes actually water is in the inner tube. When I turn the pump on I can see the bubbles where it trys to fill it completly. The laser tube was loose inside the compartment when I received the machine, It was sort of rattiling around in there. There is nothing I can see where the cathode could have shorted against.

You should probably phone or e-mail leo (Think thats the name) at redsail and talk to him. Sounds like your tube at least might need replacement also so your replacement doesn't melt out again.

Zoltan we do not recomend inkexpress. i personally recomend Redsail. Better machine and support. Well we will see about that real soon.

Hi,

What is the price of IE300. I visited the site of inkexpress and there is a $1299 tag. I understood that several people bought for $999. Could you tell me from where is at this price ($999)?
Thank you.
Zoltan

Do NOT buy Ink Express IE300. From other peoples experience you will have to rebuild it after it arrives and they will give you NO support whatsoever. Proceed at your own peril. If you insist on buying an IE300 please keep us informed....or if you buy a different one ditto. Thnx.

My machine provides 24 hour technical support,Service support,But,Regretted I do not have the similar 3040,40A such machine.
Moreover I knew in China is $2000,Sells to US is actually $1000,(Has the Sad regret possibility .....)

I recently purchased the IE1200 from Ink Express and everything arrived in good condition. I wish I'd found this forum before purchasing but it probably wouldn't have changed my decision. I must echo the "no support after the sale" that most folks have posted here. The manual is poorly written and requires some reading between the lines. I've had the machine now for several days and I'm still not up and running. The CD they sent doesn't have any software or drivers on it. They also sent me a usb key that they call a DOG. At first they said just copy the files from the CD to the USB key and insert the USB directly into the laser machine. WELL, my computer didn't reconize the USB key and the CD didn't have a driver for it. And there is no USB input or connector anywhere on the laser. So, I searched and found a driver for the usb key on the net. So now my computer reconizes the usb key but I still don't have the software or a clear understanding of how to make my PC and my Laser communicate. One would think that you would just pop in the CD and it would automatically take you through the installation process but it hasn't been that easy. Anyway, it seems like I'm dealing with a sales guy via email who is starting to irritate me. I just sent him pics of my machine to convince him that there isn't a usb input on it. All I want is the proper software and drivers to operate this 6K investment!!!!!!!!! Anyway, the verdict is still out on this company, I'll keep ya'll posted and I'm sure I'll be beggin for some real TECH SUPPORT in the future.
JB

The question has solved?The LASER machine has started to work?
Wishes your machine to bring joyfully to you!
Inside machine material:Carryhome:Technical order material,Installs the material,Software CD,Dog,Demonstrates VCD,Moreover your sales chamber of commerce delivers the machine your family,And provides you to use the training!!!

Texasman-
6K investment is obviously a larger machine than anyone in this thread has purchased. Which unit did you buy? How was the buying experience?

[QUOTE=rakker]Well this is the forum(CNC Zone in general) where those brave souls risking their hard earned money for something unproven will test product support.

rakker I believe the saying is "A fool and his money are soon parted" :D

Has anyone bought a DK40A from Redsail yet?
If so, can you tell me how it well works with vector type files, .plt, .dxf?
Also could you post a photo of the innards?
And do you like it?

Jay

Texasman-
6K investment is obviously a larger machine than anyone in this thread has purchased. Which unit did you buy? How was the buying experience?

I got the IE1200, it's a has a 3' X 4' table and I purchased the motorized platform.

I found this CO2 Laser properties chart at http://www.spread-laser.com/ProductsCo2Tube.asp

It may be useful to the DIYers following this thread...


Jay

You need the hospital medical service laser?

You need the hospital medical service laser?
Hi Hkxy
No, they show complete laser tube information.
Very useful.
Sorry about the confusion. :p

Jay

laser
how much???


joe_souza@sbcglobal.net

At present,I only provide the LASER machine,And to purchases my machine customer preferential price to provide the LASER pipe,
The LASER pipe not alone provides temporarily.

The price please refer to my card

I've lost patience, still no word from Ink Express, does anyone have a file named setupmpc03drv.exe , it's a driver for the mcp03-lv. I'm hoping it's the same driver for one of the other models one of you guys have purchased.
My manual says I need this and I.E. didn't send it, now they won't respond to my email request for the proper drivers and software necessary to operate the machine they sold me. BUYER BEWARE OF INK EXPRESS, Hopefully they come through and I'll have to eat those words, but for now they're receiving a "F" for support after the sale. Help if you can.
TEXASMAN

Strange!
Why doesn't have the seller support!
You give them the money,They should provide the machine for you,Technology,Use training,With use training?
Isn't this?

Texasman, I'm also busy purchasing the same machine (IE1200) I’ve done quite a bit of reading (manual etc.) and think I might be able to help you. I’m currently a Copier and printer technician and have some experience in setting up and repairing machines.
First I need some info. Did you insert the PCI controller card in your PC? What type of data cable does the IE1200 have (LPT, Serial or USB)?
Which Operating System (OS) do you have installed on your PC (’98, 2000 or XP)?
It looks to me that the USB DOG key needs to be installed into your PC and not the IE1200. The PC connects to the IE1200 via the data cable connected to the PCI card in your PC.
Could you maybe send me some pics of the IE1200 (outside and inside – detail please)

francois :
HI:hello
IE900,IE1200
how much???

I often see similar machines in China

$6500

I also am waiting for reply from ink exspress for promo-invoice but I can complane about the service because there are no service.I want to buy m/c but dont want to spend money on a company with no service.I am looking for other company with better service.

$6500

francois :
IE900:$6500???????
OR
IE1200:$6500????????

Is FOB?CIF?

在HONGKONG OR USA Transportation received your goods? ?

texasman :
Regrettably, my news : MPC03 is PCI, the use setupmpc03 have eliminated, we have to use MPC05, and he is USB communications. Online software and support services.

haven't bought mc yet, but do you know where can i buy m/c for less?I want a 80 watt laserengraver m/c must have 1200mm bed to engrave on.front and back panels if they can be removed + point because want to engrave on long pieces of material.I am from South Africa where are you from?Do you have a laser m/c?If you can help will be nice thanks.

ie1200 $6500 with motorized up and down platform and Rotary attachment.ie900 $4500 just m/c. www.iehk.net/

I also am waiting for reply from ink exspress for promo-invoice but I can complane about the service because there are no service.I want to buy m/c but dont want to spend money on a company with no service.I am looking for other company with better service.

Try RedSail in Canada. If you order a machine from them they may be able to fit an 80W tube instead of a 60W. Someone else on the site had them do this before.

http://www.hflaser.com/

Also if anyones interested I just saw new videos on the Redsail site. They're really cool.
http://www.hflaser.com/video.html

francois ：


Or U.S. delivery of the goods in Hong Kong or south africa?

ＩManufacturing laser machines,
ＬＡＳＥＲ０６０９：６００＊９００ＭＭ
ＬＡＳＥＲ１２０８：１２００＊８００ＭＭ

80W　glass is 1600MM. 60W laser is 1200MM
If someone told you that 1200MM 80W,
deception!

francois
Chip Sweeper
ie1200 $6500 with motorized up and down platform and Rotary attachment.ie900 $4500 just m/c.

Similar machines, I simply 1200:FOB$ ５＊＊＊here, good products $ 6＊＊＊-８＊＊＊ Moreover, if their assembly DIY, only $ 5000

thanks i just send e-mail to them

HF,HX?

china Jinan
Tel : 0531! ! Poor choice

Maybe in Canada, sales.

hkxy, I understand that you promote the Ink Express products but please do not criticise other products (Redsail) which thus far people on this site have found better. :) They may be made in Jinan, but they are bought from their distributor in Canada.

www.easycut.cn

www.easycut.cn

Yes that is Mr. Leo Shi
Redsail Tech Co.,Ltd (Canada)
http://www.hflaser.com
Tel: +1-416-4419834
Fax: +1-416-4419834
He is the one I have been dealing with on my laser. Real nice fellow I must say. That is just one of their web sights the machine still comes from Jinan, Shandong, China That is the manufacturing facility. I think inkexpress buys from them and resales the machines.

Do you work for Ink Express?

Texasman, I'm also busy purchasing the same machine (IE1200) I’ve done quite a bit of reading (manual etc.) and think I might be able to help you. I’m currently a Copier and printer technician and have some experience in setting up and repairing machines.
First I need some info. Did you insert the PCI controller card in your PC? What type of data cable does the IE1200 have (LPT, Serial or USB)?
Which Operating System (OS) do you have installed on your PC (’98, 2000 or XP)?
It looks to me that the USB DOG key needs to be installed into your PC and not the IE1200. The PC connects to the IE1200 via the data cable connected to the PCI card in your PC.
Could you maybe send me some pics of the IE1200 (outside and inside – detail please)

Francois,
Thanks, I'm running win2000, I have the usb key installed on my computer, but only because I found the proper driver for it off the web. My PC didn't reconize it when I first connected it, and the drivers for it are not on the CD they sent. In fact there aren't any drivers or software programs to install on the CD they sent. Here are the contents of the CD they sent me.
./20050601/20050601/Bin/ACGE15.DLL
./20050601/20050601/Bin/HELP_CHS.CHM
./20050601/20050601/Bin/HELP_EN.CHM
./20050601/20050601/Bin/HFACE.001
./20050601/20050601/Bin/Help.chw
./20050601/20050601/Bin/LaserCut.exe
./20050601/20050601/Bin/MACHINE.CFG
./20050601/20050601/Bin/MFC42.DLL
./20050601/20050601/Bin/MPC03LS.DLL
./20050601/20050601/Bin/MSVCRT.DLL
./20050601/20050601/Bin/Msvcp60.dll
./20050601/20050601/Bin/Resource_En.dll
./20050601/20050601/Bin/Resource_TW.dll
./20050601/20050601/Bin/Resource_chs.dll
./20050601/20050601/Bin/SoftWare.INI
./20050601/20050601/Bin/Tools/ACAD.RX
./20050601/20050601/Bin/Tools/DWG2.ARX
./20050601/20050601/Bin/_RUN.DA_

The funny thing is the IE employee tried to tell me to insert the USB directly into the laser and the IE1200 doesn't even have a USB connector. The PCI card has a serial connection and is called a mcp03-lv, there are no drivers for this PCI card on the CD either. I can't figure out if they sent the wrong PCI card, the wrong CD, or both. Let me know if any of this is too confusing.
texasman

20050601/20050601/Bin/LaserCut.exe

I hoped sincere helps you,Hoped you succeed!!!
Because 03 is the old software,I do not affirm following order,Attempt.

I affirmed this is comes from the Chinese Jinan's machine,Moreover I after am common he.
Probably has 10-20 such company in Jinan,Produces this price 1200 machines.
Very obvious,Your machine is MPC03,I thought is breakdown which the software debugs,Correct processing sequence,Possibly has helps.

1,CD--PC
2,DRIVERS--MICRODOGINSTDRV
3,STEP
4,OK
5,插入狗Insertion dog
6,COOLS PC
7,PCI
8,NEW CAD
9,NO
10,WIN2000
11,SETUPMPC03
12FOR WIN2000 OK
13，PC Starts once more pc
14, OPEN LASERCUT
15,OPEN DXF,JPG......
16,Establishment function
17,Establishes the LASER machine
18,OK!!!!!
USB NO LASER,ITS ---PC



Temporary,I have not imagined other possibilities,Or transportation breakdown,The electric wire breaks,PC breakdown .......
I provide the world for mine customer to arrive family's 3-7 day training service and the safe training,And is responsible in yours factory machine software debugging,
your seller has this service.And has the detailed REALPLAYER video recording,


Is your machine also $6500 buys?

ok 1st probleme.N.B: go to side to download software manual and user manual." the show you to install m/c".Wen I ask them for my m/c they said that there are a new model with usb connector and lcd screen so a think they send you the old model m/c with new model software"maybe",that is why the salesman told you to put usb dog in mc and not in PC because new model got usb connector.You must download pdf manuals because there are more detail on it and be sure to download all manuals.you must do it step by step like they tell you to do otherwise the mc will not work.the Microsoftword manuals do not exsplane so good.1st go and remove PCL card and restart pc go to add and remove programes and delete any drivers you have instaled on PC and then turn of computer.then follow instructions on pdf manuals carefully.I have all the pdf manual files and 1 file is in winrar formate.it is a zipfile programe.Files are to big to sent on this form if you don't come right with download on websides http://www.iehk.net/downlord/dl_IE1200_01.html Let me now when you are up and running.Good luck.

Another update, I received the new power supply today. I hooked it up correctly and still no da&$ laser. I am getting verry upset with Redsail about this, And sick and tired of waiting. DO NOT BUY REDSAIL E-Mail them asking why they sell non working lasers. :boxing: :mad: :bs:

Ps: For sale new laser never used make offer :)

texasman

The question has solved?
Your seller has provided the software installment and the machine debugging to you serves?
Comes from Jinan's machine price to have the superiority.But .......

francois :
Yes,Has the new USB controller,That is 05 laser control system which in front of me mentioned,
But I affirmed he cannot free bestow you.
But perhaps you want the extra payment
$500-1000 above mine machine such controller are the standard disposition,Because 03 systems already eliminated,Because the American did not understand,Therefore 6500 Yuan machines still used 03 systems,But on my 5000 Yuan machines already used 05USB to be systematic very early.

Moreover provides serves completely,Telephone,WEB-ONLINE (long-distance assistance)
the software has me to come to install for you and to debug.
If you may provide the plane ticket and the travel expense (estimate 1000-2000),I even may arrive US or Europe,Serves for you.
Moreover has the machine may bestow 60-80W LASER.
Why doesn't believe me. :nono:


03 systems are the PCI :Is merely $4500 or 5500,
05 systems are USB:Is merely $6800 :banana:

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17213
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=14476
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=14487

what is wrong with your laser?

Well when I first got it I hooked it up and the laser power supply fried, The company did send a new power supply. I replaces that and the machine still does not work. I told them I believe the tube is bad. No reply yet. They expect me to set up a webcam so they can watch the machine do nothing. I personally feel I was cheated lied to and took advantage of. I asked for phone numbers of others in the us that have bought them.

Right now I feel like smashing the machine and company.

I guess it is true, A fool and his money are soon parted.

I will try to help you,but need more info.Is the mc totaly dead or does same of the ligts on mc come on?If lights on mc comes on but mc can't engrave can be laser unit.Some mc got fuses in mc to protect mc.look if you don't see fuses normaly they are in plastic tube or it looks like a flat screw that you screw out and inside is the fuse.what model mc do you got?look in manual under troubleshooting for locasion of fuses if there is a manual.tell me mc tipe I will look on net for manual.powersupply do blow normaly just replace sometimes other probleme blows powersupply .

Same power supply have settings for 220v and 110v normaly is 220 v but make sure.usually it sets on back of mc

francois ：
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23238&page=2

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23238
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17213
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23358
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12663

I am engaged in the laser research,And manufacturing laser machine.
I hoped introduces him to everybody.
Knows more hobby DIY friend,Provides the DIY laser machine for them the work.


All laser product,Makes from the SOLIDWORKS design to installs the debugging,All is I and my team completes independently.
My company are very many for China other companies to provide the OEM service.
The very many laser company is my customer,Moreover I also directly provide the laser machine to the user.


At present size from 600-6000mm
power: 25-250W

Aksess ：

You buy what model machine?Has WEB?
Hasn't served why?Regret…
Ｃan i help you ?

Aksess ：

You buy what model machine?Has WEB?
Hasn't served why?Regret…
Ｃan i help you ?

Dear hkxy,

You have excellent web site. Your products are described very well.

www.modelcn.com

Why do you still maintain war against other China companys?

Hi, everyone, this is Leo Shi from RedSail Canada.
Mr. Dwight told me this forum, it is really a good place.
For some reason, I can not visit here so often, appologize in advance if I can not reply rapidly.
Maybe some are concerning about the machine which does not work, what I want to say here is the service our company provide is one of the best in this field (if not the best). For details, I can not say without the permission of Mr.Dwight.

Hi Leo, good to see you here. Im very concerned about Aksess problems as I was looking at buying RedSail. Posts number 261 and 265 are certainly a huge change in attitude from no. 256 and previous posts. Sorry for all your trouble Aksess, I had high hopes that we had found an inexpensive but good machine ..... maybe not after all.... :(

hkxy, I would like to see your machines but when I try to load your address it says 'Site cannot be found'. Any ideas? Thanks.

Edit: Never mind hkxy, I saw your info re. site in other thread. Will look at it when its back up.

L8rs. :)

I am still looking for mc. but i see that so many people mc are not working. Is there one guy that have a laser mc in working condition because looks for me it is a myth?Hkxy :I am from South Africa and I don't understand your english.please have passions with me.1.do you sell mc. 2.where can i go and look at your laser mc [web page]

Leo RedSail:I also wanted to buy mc from RedSail and inkexspress but now I don't now .looks to me there is to much problems with mc and also contacted ink exspress they do not replay to me I have order mc, was waiting for promo invoice but they don't reply.then I got this web side and put all on hold.

After reading through all of the posts on this thread, I'd like to add my two cents from personal experience.

The company I work for wished to purchase an inexpensive laser to engrave specifications on the anodized aluminum bodies of the equipment it manufactures. My employer "found" a laser represented by an outfit in Texas that "he" thought would be ideal - and it only cost $2500 + $200 s&h.

It turned out to be an IE300 and the guy in texas made a huge profit.

It came in with the moving arm (x-travel) twisted and bent and the laser totally misaligned. Called the guy in texas - no support.

Fortunately, I had previous experience aligning laser systems for an optics R&D firm and managed to align the optics. Then came MoshiDraw. Don't get me wrong, I love most software. This is worthless. Although most of the on-screen instructions and type is in English, ALL the help file is in chinese. And frankly, in a manufacturing environment, I don't have time to learn chinese. I did manage to get it to do some engraving, but relegated it to the storage closet as being impractical.

The boss then asked if I would research the problem and recommend a laser.

We now own an Epilog Mini. It is a real machine that does real engraving from real software - real easy. Downside - they start at $10,000.

That effectively takes it out of the "it would be nice if I had one" category, but for anyone who knows that they have a market for a product they can produce with a laser, it's right in the ballpark.

Assume that the laser tube has a life of 2000 hours (actual use). $10,000/2000hrs means (worst case scenario) you could throw the machine away after 2000 hours and it would only have cost you $5/hr to own. If you can't produce product worth $60/hr with the laser, why would you buy one?

A message for HK and Leo:

I, like many others here, have personal projects that we are not sure will produce a profit in the range described above. We don't wish to invest $10,000+ to find out if it will generate a profit, but would be willing to pay lesser amounts in order to experiment.

Please address the issues in this thread to show how the firms you represent are willing to provide the product, service and software that will allow us to experiment. I am sure you are aware that none of us expects miracles at the low end of your product line, but that, when we actually move from "experiment" to "product," we would have to consider purchasing your higher-end machines. And probably would if our dealings with the firms you represent were on a higher plane.

Carvist

hkxy

I bought the 3040a from http://www.hflaser.com

Mr. Leo has actually tried helping very hard. But he is limited to tech advice.

After I have cooled down I can honestly say they have tried very hard to resolve my problem.

I guess I will be stringing a phone line to shop so there tech guys can access the machine, Heaven knows I can not afford to ship it back for repairs.

I seriously believe it is the Laser tube which is bad, and I have told redsail that several times, Because when I uncrated the machine the laser tube was bouncing around loose in the compartment.

hkxy how much you sell me a 40 watt laser tube for? that is what is wrong with my machine, And I have said that from day 1

hkxy I have yet to see a laser beam, I am sorry for ranting on so but I feel so downhearted spending my vacation money on a machine that does not work. Needless to say wasting a week of vacation. :violin:

If anyone here has a good CHEAP source for 40watt laser tube please inform me.

This one is not cheap but I'll keep looking for you.

http://cgi.ebay.com/CO2-Sealed-Laser-Tube-40-Watt-NIB-w-int-mirrors-LQQK_W0QQitemZ150020976379QQcmdZViewItem

hkxy

I bought the 3040a from http://www.hflaser.com

Mr. Leo has actually tried helping very hard. But he is limited to tech advice.

After I have cooled down I can honestly say they have tried very hard to resolve my problem.

I guess I will be stringing a phone line to shop so there tech guys can access the machine, Heaven knows I can not afford to ship it back for repairs.

I seriously believe it is the Laser tube which is bad, and I have told redsail that several times, Because when I uncrated the machine the laser tube was bouncing around loose in the compartment.

hkxy how much you sell me a 40 watt laser tube for? that is what is wrong with my machine, And I have said that from day 1

hkxy I have yet to see a laser beam, I am sorry for ranting on so but I feel so downhearted spending my vacation money on a machine that does not work. Needless to say wasting a week of vacation. :violin:

If anyone here has a good CHEAP source for 40watt laser tube please inform me.


Ink Express sells a replacement tube for the IE300 for ~$170, can't say anything about the shipping though. I have dug around a lot, and I believe that the IE300, DK40A, and the RS3040A are all built around the same laser and and controller, and possibly the same base enclosure. There are differences in the user controls, but I think those are minor, and not directly related to the laser tube being used. I think "they" install different XY platforms into the different models.

hkxy, do you know if they use the same laser tube?

Jay

hurricane007 :
WWW.modelcn
Because of time reason,The service provider stopped the service,I am restoring WWW the service.
The estimate needs 20-30 day
regret.
Thanks you!

diarmaid :
Regret:
The WEB service needs 20-30 day,Restores the service.
Now is revising the edition.
Thanks

francois
[web page]!!!!!!

Regret!I am restoring the WEB service.

$2500:???IE300???
no!
is $1000

Epilog Mini?$10,000?
18" x 12" (457 x 305 mm) ??????

The time you may understand,
Some 3
1,90 day affirmations (I test it actually: 150-240 day,The price merely $150-300)
2,150 days affirmations (I test it actually: 360-510 day,Price merely $200-450)
3,American LASER:(I also may provide:Heard he is 720-870 day,But the price is $3000-4000.Even $5000,Perhaps has the cheap price in US)

Perhaps you may consider my LASER8:Machine,
He uses the American laser,Starts the price is $14000,But may have the 1200MM size
also to have other sizes to be possible to choose.
http://www.coherent.com/Lasers/index.cfm?fuseaction=show.page&id=790&loc=834

Aksess

Regret!
I suggested you consult HF,
I merely to purchase my machine customer to provide laser tube.
Even is bestows
Whether inspects the machine other breakdowns?

ServoGuy :
OK!
Your judgment entirely accurate!!!
You are intelligent!
They completely in CHINA-JINAN,Makes
the factory to have 3-4,Other are OEM,Or sells the merchant.Business agent.

YES,same laser tube
I believed,The money and the service are the proportions,The money are many,Serves many.
In CHINA,The similar 3040,40A machine has 2:
1,$1000
2,$2000
China buys $2000 quite many,The very few people buy 1,The outward appearance is completely equally same,But internals,Service,The difference is extremely big.

to Aksess,
Mr. Dwight, I have sent the price to your email account.
Please pay attention to #220, what he said is right, the voltage is 20000V (very very high). It is potentially harmful without instruction not only to machies, but also to you. Please do not do this kind of things without instruction any more.
If you have ordered a laser tube. Then please check it when you get the laser tube, if you find any physical damage, refuse to accept and take a photo as evidence. They will resend you a new laser tube normally ( Laser tube is very easy to damage in the way). And please make an oppintment with our technican ( Please make sure this time you can see how our technician work by MSN carema, and make sure our technician can see you when you are working).
We can not figure out the problem without see the machine somehow, nobody can figure out the problem just by pictures.
We will still do our best to help you in resolving the problem.

$2500:???IE300???
no!
is $1000

Epilog Mini?$10,000?
18" x 12" (457 x 305 mm) ??????



Not kidding - he actually spent $2500 for the IE300 and $250 for shipping and handling. :withstupi It's sitting in a storage closet now. Anyone interested in it, it's in Louisiana and last time I heard him cursing and swearing about it, he said he'd take the first $1300 anyone offered. As they say at dinnertime, "Come and Get It while it's Hot." :cheers:

The Epilog Mini 18 is currently selling for $10,000 (actually $9,995). Hell of a machine at that price.

to Francois,
Sorry for replying late.
Our company has a distributor in South Africa, and I just asked my Head Office that there is Five RS3040A in the stock there. If you have interest to contact with them, please contact me .
About the case you are concerning about, personally I think the big problems are our technicians can not see the machine (even by computer camera), then they can not figure out what result in the problem. To some extent, we tried our best but we could not provide the best technique support because of some limitation.
I will introduce Redsail and me later.

carvist
IE300:
$1000 OR $2000
$2000That is the high-quality product.Comes from Shanghai,But is not Jinan.

Epilog Mini 18
$10000,May purchase 1200*800 the machine.
18 " x 12 " (457 x 305 mm
small sizes,But is possible he the software to be outstanding.

Believe me when I say that this has got to be the $1000 version. It is the cheapest piece of equipment I have ever seen with the exception of a SLR camera from asia that had the focal plane shutter that still had the original Pepsi can printing ink on it.

The specs match the IE300 and it has a label that says IE300. The mirror alignment brackets are so thin that turning the adjusting screws more than once strips the single thread in the thin metal. The bracket that hold the "X" travel arm is so soft a metal it can be bent between your thumb and forefinger.

If, by some chance, this is the $2000 version - God help the people who bought the $1000.

with the exception of a SLR camera from asia that had the focal plane shutter that still had the original Pepsi can printing ink on it......If, by some chance, this is the $2000 version - God help the people who bought the $1000.

:D This site often has me laughing out loud! LOL :D LOL

(Im laughing in sympathy with you not at you :) )

This site often has me Frightens and is in a cold sweat!



I want to remind you ,You see only are you hope seeing,Is not complete.
Hopes everybody,Full understands the Chinese Journal of Lasers machine.

to Diarmaid,

Sorry for missing you message about our company.

I am reading the meassage #211 posted somedays before, if you have interest, you can read it.

Let me introduce Redsail and me a little here.For details, please see www.hflaser.com for details.

Redsail is not only a company but also a factory to produce the products, we are not the trade company. The goal of our company is to provide the products with best price-performance-ratio, the best service and maintain the friendship forever. Our company purchase the parts over the world to ensure the first class and the best quality. I feel very sorry sometimes because I can not use the part povideded by the suppliers in my hometown.

I am proud to be a Chinese, and our company are proud to provide the Chinese products, and all stuff of our company are proud to see more and more Chinese companies can serve the world with good services.

To every friend,
Do you think it is necessary to introduce our technique supporters here, in order to explain some inquiry or questions?
If you have interest, I will let them come here and serve for you.
I will post some photoes about our company and stuff.

The picture in India Sign Show.
No. 4 is how RS3040A works and the products made by RS3040A
No. 7 is RS6090C

A few distributors in Europe

Our sales team ( I am sorry, I am not there)

Hi Leo, thanks for your pics and info. I think introducing your technical support on the zone would be a good idea. However, you might consider starting a new thread which is specific to RedSail products.

Who are your distributors in Europe please?

yes i think this will be great to introduce our technique supporters here,that is what we call service .

Need help,
I am new and I want to modify the message I posted, ( to delete the email address I posted before).
Be very grateful for any help and advices.

Done, thanks, thanks for any attention.