Hi,

Thank you to all for help. Sorry for replying so late but I had a very busy day. To answer the question where the misalignment occurred is quite difficult. Actually when the laser machine arrived from Redsail the mirrors with their supports were flying inside of the box. None of them was in place. The mirrors have been damaged due to this fact. They have been scratched. My luck was that when I ordered the machine I have ordered a set of optics as spare parts. Those came undamaged so I mounted them. I aligned the laser spot in the center of first mirror, then I aligned the second mirror to have the spot approximately in the center of it and by adjusting the first mirror I aligned exactly the laser spot on its center. I did similar action for third mirror, and fourth mirror. I had a laser beam in the center of mirrors having the head of the machine in parking position. Then I moved the head in the upper left corner and I had the misalignment. I tried to align it starting from the fourth mirror, but when I aligned it and came back to parking position it was misaligned, and so on. I have tried many times to get the alignment but did not succeed. Today I had no time for it.

Zoltan

On our machine we:

1. Put head on top left corner
2. Make a dot with laser
3. Move machine to bottom left corner
4. Make another dot, notice that the dot is not in the same place and then adjust the first mirror to make the dot match up to the one we did first (step 2)
5. Now the second mirror, we make a dot on the left side of the machine.
6. Move head to right of the machine
7. Make a second dot (new peice of paper now), note that they do not match up.
8. Adjust second mirror so that the dots match up.
9. Now we put another dot on a new peice of paper as we must move the beam to the centre of the mirrors.
10. Move the laser tube up/down/forwards/backward so that the laser beam is in the centre of the mirror.
11. Now we must ensure the beam is at 90degrees to the material, we put a peice of 20mm acrylic on the bed.
12. Burn a hole in the acrylic, note if it is at 90degrees through the sheet or not, adjust the third mirror accordingly.

This is how we do it on our Ink Express machine (now dead)

Hi Zoltan,

You can try another way, move the head to the centre of the table (mid way on both x and y axis) and adjust the beam to the centre of all mirrors, I think this will give you at least wider area than the 10X10.

Since the mirror support are drop off, the best way is

1. If any of the mirror support "adjusting screw" is already adjusted to one side (not parallel ) adjust it back to the middle.(so the mirror holder is parallel to the "support bracket")

2. Slightly loosen the mounting screw for the mirror support, burn a spot then adjust the mirror support so that the beam is close to the middle.
If done lock the mounting screw then use the adjusting screw to do the fine adjustment.

4. Do one side after another starting from the first mirror closest to the laser tube.

NOTE:
The above procedure is only true as I presume the whole mirror support "completely" drop off together with the mounting bracket.

Just to chime in on a previous reply about organic glass. It is actually Acrylic as some Chinese and European countries call it "organic glass".
As with the alignment problem, I would make sure the laser tube was as square with its axis to the table (X or Y or whatever side it is fitted )as you can possibly get it as getting the start point square will make the rest of the squaring up process fall into place. It may be something you overlooked.
I have just purchased my first laser tube from PKunlimited on Ebay for a 35 watt tube for $495 which will be about $1000 AUS when it arrives after freight, GST and import duties etc. They say it has inert anode and cathodes which I hope will not burn like the site owners anode and stuff the tube and a life of 10,000 hours. I hope I can get 1/2 of that. Has anybody had experience with them????? I don't want a dud like some have purchased.

G'day everyone,
Well Having read pages and pages about laser cutter/engraver machines, I am almost too afraid to buy one now as I am not an engineer or in any way technical (being female and all) if it arrived and something was broken I would not know what to do. It will be enough just learning how to make it do what I want it to do. I hand cut 3mm mdf with my Hagner scroll saw into light switch decorations all different types then I hand paint them and have always believed if I could print the designs (with a flat bed printer) then laser cut them I could make more than the 1000 approx per year that I make now. And I could reduce the costs and possibly start a family business that did not require ME to do everything. I am in Australia and have found these printers and laser cutters on www.ebay.com.au from itconnectionsaustralia I was looking at an Omnisign Plus PRO 1000 any one heard of this brand and model? The cost is AUD $14,450.00
I am hoping they will let me see one working (I also hand make wooden pens) and want to engrave names on them. As they seem to be operating dispatch locally (well a short flight away). Can someone have a look and let me know what they think.
Thanks heaps
Miyo

Hi Miyo,
As you are saying in any way technical (being female and all) it is not wise to buy anything that the support comes from a far distance.
I guess that in australia ,this is normal.
Note the transport charges will come in a big figure excluding the service charges. So in my opinion it is best to get from a local supplier where there are close to you, say in the same town.

Note:
1. It is better to get a new unit specifically for lasers.
2. You would have brownish colour on the laser cut side when compare to cutting the part by Hagner scroll saw. This will be a problem if you were to paint it with clear lacquer.
3. With laser cutting your productivity will increase by many times which is good but make sure maintenance is done after recommended period of useage.

As for Omnisign Plus PRO 1000 i cannot help you as i not familiar with it.

Hi Miyo,
The Omnisign is a vinyl cutter, not a laser. After reading all these posts, unless you have help and support, I would think it would be highly risky to purchase a chinese laser at this point.
I good used Universal, Epilog or Laser Pro would be a far better proposition for what you want.

Hi Miyo,

I looked to the machine that you have found on eBay.
The direct link :
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/COMPUTERISED-LASER-ENGRAVING-CUTTING-MACHINE-ENGRAVER-1_W0QQitemZ330056357089QQihZ014QQcategoryZ105827QQcmdZViewItem
The information provided on the page was not enough to get final answer, but from the pictures I think it is a chines co2 (water cooled) laser machine with a good quality finishing & component , the price is high (about US $11,312) the machines with same configuration directly from china is about %50 of that price.
My advice to you, continue search for supplier near you with a better price.

fractaledge3
Are you happy with the engraver from Redsail? Is it stable, and how will it perform making rubber stamps?
I am planning to buy an egraver and are not sure what to buy. I do not see any complains about the RS3040A laser machine from Redsail. It is much cheaper than Epilog, Trotec and Versa.

Hi reitsmap,

Here is my story
First of all I think that I have enough experience to deal with Chinese machines, my last few years experience on CNC includes:
1- Producing many CNC software as programmer
2- Manufacturing of 3 CNC machines (2 CNC routers, 1 CNC plasma cutter)

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14100&page=39

Now come to the machine:
Sure it is not plug & play machine, I didn't expect that, so when I receive the machine I double check every thing before even plugging any cable and here is what I found:
1- Machine keyboard cable not connected (I reconnected the cable)
2- The Laser power supply was not fixed with any nuts and it was moved from its place inside the machine (I fixed it on its place)
3- I tested every component separately (water pump - Air blower...etc) the water pump had rough operation and was not delivering enough water (I fixed it)

After that part of the story I installed the software and began with testing phase:
-Testing the machine without laser power (ok)
-Testing the machine with min laser power (ok)
-Testing the machine with max laser power (ok)
Now I have a working machine from day (8-28-2006)...Thanks god, I decided:
-not to use the max laser power until I complete my samples on deferent materials
-not to heavy load the machine
-not to modify any thing on the machine until I get profit from it
-take maximum care during machine operation.

At that time I began the sample making phase:
-Wood raster engraving, and Ply Wood vector cutting (3 mm) was very good.
-MDF raster engraving was very good, and vector cutting (4 mm) was hard to cut.
-Glass raster engraving was very good.
-Acrylic raster engraving was very good, and vector cutting (3 mm) was good.
But….! On day (9-19-2006) during normal operation (I am just making a sample on acrylic), I notes that there was no laser beam at the material surface but there was a laser beam inside the laser tube, so I thought that the cause may be from the mirrors , but after short checking I found that the cooling ring at the output coupler was separated from the tube end.
I contacted redsail, they told me just glue that part, I glue it but…. No laser came out from the tube. After long negotiations using web cam to show the problem, they decide to send me a new free laser tube as a warranty, with a set of optics as a gift, but I must pay for shipping by DHL.
On day (10-20-2006) I received the tube & optics, I decided not to install the new tube until I get the full installation instructions from redsail.
On day (11-18-2006) I get the instructions from redsail, and then I complete the installation of the new laser tube. I tested the tube by making some samples, it worked well.
Now because I can't get any income from the machine I decided not to do any more free samples on the machine, except that samples of real working orders.

My conclusion:

Redsail Company:
It Is a trustable company with a good customer support (Special thanks to Amanda for replying so quick and kindly for all my emails), but I think it is better to give your customers a good quality control than to give them excellent customer support.

Redsail RS3040A machine:
From the status of my machine as I received it, I can say:
-The machine by any way it worth the money spend on it especially when it compared to the western machines.
-I think it is not plug & play machine, but it can be plug & play with a little quality control by Redsail.
-The machine has one axis faster than the other (the two axis has deferent resolutions), this will may give a faster raster engraving but it will give a deferent depth on vector cutting or engraving.
-The machine has No Pause, Home, Reset commands, and No limit switches, only has Two home switches for homing the machine when you power it on.
-After making my first samples I was very satisfied with the machine, but now after replacing the defected laser tube I can't tell that I am satisfied until I get income from the machine.

The machine software (Easycut 2.0):
-It is simple software with all basic requirements.
-It has no help file, so I try to understand some options by trail & error.
-By some improvement it can be more productive (for ex.. cut & engrave on same job, use deferent speeds on same job ….) .
-You can do image raster engraving directly from the software, but In my testing I can't grantee the final result with deferent images so I prefers to process the image in Photoshop before using the Easycut.

can you tell me what is the name of the engraving software (the software that speaks to the machine)?

Did you need to understand all the settings?, I cant!

Can you email me the instruction book?

:wave: (flame2) I've lost patience, still no word from Ink Express, does anyone have a file named setupmpc03drv.exe , it's a driver for the mcp03-lv. I'm hoping it's the same driver for one of the other models one of you guys have purchased.
My manual says I need this and I.E. didn't send it, now they won't respond to my email request for the proper drivers and software necessary to operate the machine they sold me. BUYER BEWARE OF INK EXPRESS, Hopefully they come through and I'll have to eat those words, but for now they're receiving a "F" for support after the sale. Help if you can.
TEXASMAN

Have you solved the problem with USB sofdog instalation?
If you haven´t, I have got a solution for you.(flame2)

I may make any size the laser to cut the machine
Size scope: 10-2400 millimeter
Power: 15-200W
Contains the complete software,Air system,Laser,Optics lens,Controls the electrical machinery...

He makes in China,The price is low

If you need,May tell yours request I,Perhaps I can give you the good price

Halo, I'm from Serbia (Europa) and I'm interest your laser machine, price etc.
Regards, prvul@ptt.yu

IE1200 laser engraver
How to install the USB softdog and MPC03

Install USB Dog and MPC03 according to instruction described in chapter 1.3.
After restart you will find that it doesn’t work.
Windows gives a message “Found New Hardware”
According instruction you chose “Cancel”
Windows: “It will not work properly”
You can see: It doesn’t work at all.
Solution is described in a few next steps:
Make sure that there is Installation CD for your machine in cd-rom drive.
Go to Desktop
Find the icon “My computer”
Right click on “My computer” gives a list.
Choose “Properties”.
You should see a window named “System Properties”
Choose list “Hardware”
On that list there are buttons “Device Manager” and “Driver Signing”.
Open “Driver Signing” and check “Ignore”
Click “OK”.
Open “Device Manager”.
You should see now a list of installed devices.
There must be MPC03 and USBDOG with red exclamation mark (point)!
It means that your system see them but doesn’t know how to communicate with them.
You have to do the next:
1.USBDOG
After Right click on the icon USBDOG you should see a list.
Choose “Update Driver…”
You should see a window “Hardware Update Wizard”
Check “No, not this time” and choose “Next”
On the next window check “Install from a list or specific location (Advanced)”, and choose “Next”.
On the next window check “Search for the best driver in these locations”
And “Search removable media (floppy, CD-ROM…}
Next.
After that wizard finds drivers on CD and installs them.
At the end you have to click “Finish”
Red exclamation mark (point) should be disappeared.

2.MPC03
The procedure is identical.
Right click on the icon MPC03.
You should see a list.
Choose “Update Driver …”
You should see a window “Hardware Update Wizard”
Check “No, not this time” and choose “Next”
On the next window check “Install from a list or specific location (Advanced)”, and choose “Next”.
On the next window check “Search for the best driver in these locations”
And “Search removable media (floppy, CD-ROM…}
Next.
After that wizard finds drivers on CD and installs them.
At the end you have to click “Finish”
Red exclamation mark (point) should be disappeared.

Reset your computer.
There mustn’t be any message like “Found new hardware”
The software must work.

Good luck!

I also purchased a machine from Ink Express. The after sales service is next to non existant. Intimidation and threats (not profanity) worked well for me.
I have a cd that has setup files for the dog. I can send you these if they will help you. I am using DSP 4.0 and the dog is required.

I also have a question:
My wife uses Corel X3 and autocad to generate her graphics. When imported by Easycut DSP 4.0, it opens the drawing outside the worktable and halfway up on the left, never at 0,0 (lower left corner) as saved.
Does anyone know a solution to this? What are we doing wrong?
We are both new to this laser engraving.

Email me directly if you want to try the dog software I have?

Albert

Try,
http://www.enrgavingetc.org/

They have tutorials there for using corel draw ect. with lasers I think. I mostly lurk in the pantograph area.

Good luck
Rich

Think I've found the holy grail for some of these lasers.:banana:

Documentation, and in English
http://www.step-servo.com/english/main.html

http://www.step-servo.com/english/Download/download.html

This looks like the mid range controllers not the real cheapies.

Paul

RedSail company will attend the exhibition is Dubai, welcome every friend who have interest to our show. The time is from Feb 27th to Mar 1st, where you can find our new model.

Good luck with your exhibition

happy spring pestival
Oren-Israel

to CATastrophe,

Thanks a lot. Acutally there are two LEO in Redsail, I am LEO SHI, the other one is LEO LI. Both of us will be in Dubai! I guess some visitors would be consfused at that time......

Xin Nian Hao!! (Happy Chinese New Year!)

To All,

Da Jia Xin Nian Hao!
( Happy Chinese New Year to you all !)

I want to get a laser machine , mainly to engrave photographs in wood.
Anyone know of a good machine that could do this. I saw one that was resonably priced. here the specs. Let me know if this would be a good choice for the photographs

Key Specifications/Special Features:

Maximum engraving dimensions (L x W x material depth): 650 x 480 x 200mm
Dimensions for machine (L x W x H): 1,000 x 920 x 970mm
Power : 500W (for host machine)
Control mode: digital pulse
Laser tube type: CO2 sealed glass
Laser power: 40W, 60W (optional)
Engraving speed: 50 - 10,000mm/min
Cutting speed: 50 - 2,000mm/min
Location precision: ≤±0.01mm
Image form: PLT, BMP, DXF, AI, DST
Operation system: Windows 98/2000/XP
Control mode: pc-base; control software: laser engrave
The machine can be used in both engraving and cutting
It can be used for engraving or cutting wooden plate, acrylic,cloth, plastic glass, paper, bamboo, rubber, and more in complex shapes
It has many uses, such as creating models, advertisements, decorations, article gifts, toys, and face guard of machine, PCB
Payment Details:

I will sell you my redsail 3040A for $900 all it needs is a $200 board.

Update...

To begin with, I was told to "Earth" the unit by Redsail so I got to looking...:eek: ...should explain what I seen...


I did "earth" the unit and to my surprise, the main power converter is NOT grounded to earth from the 110. This may be ok over the pond but a BIG :nono: here in the US. Needless to say, I brought that up to standard.

Then I went on to "earth" the machine...
Earth means simply the SHORTEST route to GROUND. This I did and the Y motor stop sensors stopped working, this tells me that there is an improperly filtered or open ground in that circuit probably in the PCB design it's self so I disconnected the earth knowing that it will NOT solve my before mentioned problem with printing. I then began looking very closely at the circuitry and stepper driver circuits, all there is ok. There was a jumper connector to jump several circuits from one board to another and this plug on the secondary side was HALFWAY PLUGGED IN. This is only SLOPPY manufacturing in my opinion, Sorry Leo but SOMEONE NEEDS TO SPEAK TO THE PERSONNEL IN MANUFACTURING ABOUT A QUALITY ASSEMBLY JOB. I feel that since I paid a lot of money for a product, it SHOULD BE ASSEMBLED IN A QUALITY ENVIRONMENT. If most of the machines have the same version PCBs that mine do, earthing WILL cause erractic problems in the 5volt circuitry. Be aware...


This should be taken to heart in China, you could have an EXCELLENT machine worth MUCH MORE than what I paid for it only IF:

#1 and FOREMOST- Control your quality and inspections CAREFULLY.
#2 Do away with the TROUBLESOME "keydog" that is needed to operate the software / use a product key instead.
...and #3 Upgrade the software to be more END USER FRIENDLY, NOT programmer friendly.


:edit: I forgot to mention, my machine is lasing BETTER now in the engraving mode than regular cutting...:)


Brenon

To ivirscar
Glad hearing that the machine runs fine and sorry for what happened. We will try to find the reason, it is very important for us. Please check the email, thanks.

this is totally off topic but i have been getting such a buzz (again) about the way the all the folks in this thread and many others work together, argue together, sulk together, solve and assist others solve problems. What a gas!

Da Jia Xin Nian Hao! to both Leo's and all of us.

Hi. I wonder if someone can help me. I recently purchased a budget 40w machine. Much like the common machine you gys have been discussing. I set it up and pushed the test button but was hearing a wierd crackilng noise coming from where the circuit boards are kept. I discovered that one of the wires had come loose, which I soldered back on and this seemed to fix the problem.

I then pushed test and the machine began to whir like it was testing the laser. I wasn't too sure wether to look however incase the beam hit me in the eyes! After it stopped whirring I hit the test button again. But nothing happened, the ammeter doesn't even flicker! Does this sound like the tube could be gone? If I test the positive and negative end of the laser tube with a handheld ammeter will this verify that the power supply is ok and the tube is shot if I get a reading? Getting a bit worried as I haven't been in touch with the guy since?


Thanks in advance.

I was looking at the HX laser website and found their short movie is quite impressive even though their english is not as good as it should be.

The way they teach you how to set up their machine is acceptable but not very good. - anyway this is the best you can find on the web at the moment if i am not wrong.

Normally if you have a cracked tube it is not advisable to start up the laser.
The high voltage supply might get damaged when it is short circuited by the water.

The best you can do now is to order the tube and the laser power supply.
Replace the tube first and then test if you can start up the laser.
If you can't start up the laser, you now have to replace the laser power supply and then start up the laser again.

Hopefully you have a blown fuse on the laser power supply - please check the fuse on the PCB. And DO NOT forget to replace the tube first before you power up the laser again.

DO NOT forget about all the safety precautions that you have to take while repairing the your laser machine.

Lastly i hope your request for help in this forum is genuine and not to discredit others.

Lastly i hope your request for help in this forum is genuine and not to discredit others.

I think China companies have done a good job of discrediting themselves already.

I think China companies have done a good job of discrediting themselves already.

It is true, what you have said.

What i mean is that, there are some "members" which i think create stories about failure of their laser machine.

When you tried to help them, they are unable to prove that they have the particular machine and hence it is frustrating to type on a keyboard for 10 mins to answer in a good faith. - i might as well go surfing the web or watch "my tube" :)

If I test the positive and negative end of the laser tube with a handheld ammeter will this verify that the power supply is ok and the tube is shot if I get a reading?

DON'T. The voltage involved here is far in excess of the capibilities of most voltmeteres. You should not even think about trying to measure this unless you have the specialist high voltage equipment required. The voltage in in the order of 20000 volts with a decent amount of current. This means an arc will jump in excess of 2 cm and will kill you. Testing the power supply needs a high voltage probe that looks like this. Do not attempt to test the high voltage supply unless you know exactly what you are doing.
Paul

Hi,

Please rest assured that my questions are legitimate and that I am not out to discredit anyone. I just wanted to get info from you guys just incase I got no response from the company that I bought my machine from. I read these forums before purchasing my machine and was led to believe that some companies can lose interest after making a sale. I have however been in touch with this company and they are doing what they can to help me which is great:)

Thanks for all your help so far I have had a fantastic response from you guys and think that this forum is priceless for someone like me with no prior knowledge of these machines. However the danger of the price and availability of these machines without any knowldege on my behalf has been brought to my attention by the last post of PaulC who may well have saved my life. Thank you!

The company which I bought this machine from are very helpful at the moment and are taking me step by step through what could have gone wrong so I will keep you posted.

This well could have been caused by the cracked laser tube which I believe was done during transportation (no fault of the company) as the water cooling tubes had water residue in them, which would say to me that the company which sold me this machine had kindly checked that it worked before sending me it.

This is trial and error with me at the moment so thanks for your patience. I can be PM'd if you have any info for me or would like to check if I am legit.

thanks for all your help.

Laser_noob

The HV probe as suggested by PaulC is a must for checking high voltage.

Please make sure you follow the instructions that come together with the probe - especially the earthing for the HV probe ... when you are using it.

Also make sure the earthing on the engraver is also done properly.

Hopefully you have already ordered the laser tube and the power supply in for the repairs.

hello my name is mike would like to say Hi to everybody

hello my name is mike would like to say Hi to everybody

Hello Mike,
Welcome to the zone. Are lasers your primary interest or are you like most of us here, interested in almost anything.
Paul

sorry i moved it to another thread

I purchase RS3040 Laser install soft and usb dog but the PC not comunicate with de Rs3040 in any Comport (1,2,3,4) Please Helpme with this.
My Pc is a pentium 4 with windows xp.
Thanks for all!!!!

Hiho chaps (and Ladies if applicable)

I'm looking for opinions and experiences in using/buying these China made laser machines.In particular does anybody have any recomendations of what far eastern company to use? they all seem to be much of the same price wise for a 40W laser so does the company selling make any difference? also can I ask about the china Ebay sellers? is that a good way to buy (I can't find any distributors in the UK)I'm looking to buy ten machines for short term production work and ten the same will make it much easier to oversee.
Any advice welcome from experienced people or owners of these things.
Many thanks for reading.

Could I please respectfuly ask though that any manufacturers reading this DON'T bomb me with offers of machines or prices etc,it will not achieve anything and will simply result in me blacklisting you from being a potential seller no matter what deals or prices you offer.

I did note that somebody commented on the command of English displyed in the Videos on utube,sure it's not fantastic however you really wanna hear my Mandarin Chinese..now THAT is BAD :)

best wishes from the UK

Dave

There is a guy representing Red Sail in England.
Read back through this thread. I think his name was Neil.
I would seriously talk to him.
Support is the biggest issue with these machines.
So many of them don't work on arrival.
Paul

Thanks Paul,

I'll see if I can find him :)

cheers Dave

I dont know how the support will work from a stockist as they to are just as reliant on supply from china, if you want to buy ten lasers say at 5000 us and the stockist want two to three times as much i would go direct to wklasers who appear to make most of them anyway, i have three of these and are still working as they should .

The other problem is your location in the uk and i dont think many people relize
the cost of a engineer . I had a company in west sussex with a waterjet cutter and many cnc machines which would cost on my kongsberg 1000 sterling to turn up from 250miles away then want his hotel for the night, hence i always buy to of everything so you do the swap yourself saving money .

So buy direct, IF YOU DO BUY TEN YOUR PROBALLY HAVE MORE THEN ANY STOCKIST who knows you may even get a engineer thrown in with the deal.

Good Luck

Thanks Dragon,
I'll look into that in the morning.I'm pretty much expecting them to be almost disposable but I really would like them to work out of the box.Thus far people seem to have had a few problems using them or at least they don't do "what it says on the label"..

thanks for the input

Dave

Hi All,
Yes, we are distributing Redsail lasers here in the UK, and no, we are not just as reliant on support from China as you would be!
Let me explain:
Firstly, we spent a lot of time in China with Redsail, assisting with their designs, and we still do design work and feed it back to Redsail to assist in the continued improvement of the products. Because of this, we have our own in depth knowledge of the products.
Second, WK do not manufacture most of the machines.
Third, we provide 12 months warranty with machines we sell. We also hold a reasonable stock of spares, including tubes, PSU's, optics, belts, bearings, drives etc.
Fourth, we have a range of working demonstration machines here in our factory, from the small machines up to the big C150+ (1500x900 with 100w laser). All wired up and ready to demonstrate with your files.

If anyone is interested, we exhibiting at the Sign UK trade show, stand N70, at the NEC 1 to 3rd May. We would be pleased to see you there and discuss your requirements.

Regarding the 3040A, make sure you have set the RS232 data to the highest speed and 8 data bits, no parity and 1 stop bit. Also ensure you are using the serial cable supplied with the laser machine. If this still does not work, I suspect that the PC serial port is not functioning. Try it with another device (printer etc).
Let me know how you get on. We will try to help (although we have not sold this machine to you).
Best regards. Neil for CTRfuture Ltd. http://www.ctrlasers.co.uk

This is exactly what I was looking for.

A company representative that is prepared to help somebody they have made no money out of.A level of service like that means if I buy from them they will go the extra mile to sort any problems I may have.I have yet to see any of our Chinese brothers posting to help people with problems with gear they HAVE sold let alone gear they haven't!
An accurate and fast response to the enquirey mail I sent with a open and up front declaration of price ranges.No hard sell or telling me I need to buy something I quite clearly do not need.

Great stuff Neil I shall be going to the NEC and look forward to discussing my needs and purchases with you.I'll get back to your Email as soon as I'm back in the office with the information your requested.

Many thanks

Dave

Thanks so much Dave i apreciate your information for this little problem.

In this momment i made the terminal cable from out the RS3040 (has 5 terminal the pins inside data cable are 2,3,5,7,8) only i need information from inside the connector to PC 232.

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!

Robert

PD: don´t worry i am a good technician and i no have problem for make this.

Hello Neil,

A very informative web site you have, probally one of the best out there at the moment.

The one thing i cannot see maybe im missing it is your location address as i cannot find it anywhere in your site. and to my previous post regarding that you are only as good as the support you yourself receive from china we all know from reading earlier post that some of them abandon the customer as soon as there is a problem with their machine also the same seems to be adopted by their some of their distributers, mainly for setup advice but i cannot see any company who will swap a pci card at a cost of $1200 us when they dont even replace a broken tube.

I know you are just starting out for redsail in the uk and i wish you all the best for you and indeed your customers and the only way is probally going to be time and posts from very satisfied customers. It is good to here that you stock all these as people buying from canada pay their money and still the machines come out of china with the long wait .so i take my hat off to you as i know that you have invested time and a lot of money doing this and yes we all need good english advice such as you give and i will be watching your progress with interest as it will benifit all

Best Regards

Dear Dragoneye,
You are right, the address is not on the site. We had a lot of problems with spam and rubbish post when we had our email and address details on our site. That's why we removed them and resorted to the contact form method.
We are based in the county of Northamptonshire in the UK. This is midway between London and Birmingham, and just 5 miles from the M1 junction 15. A good location for reasonably quick transport to most areas of the UK.
If anyone requires exact details please send us a quick email via our web 'contact' page and we will be pleased to provide them. http://ctrlasers.co.uk/tinc?key=WM3TVqXY&formname=CTRlaserFeedbackForm
We are sorry for the convoluted approach, but you realy would not believe the scum that is out there waiting to be dumped on the unsuspecting!
Spam has a signifcant detrimental impact on time management, and hence customer support. that is why we want to keep it to a minimum.
Best regards to all the honest workers! Neil for CTRfuture Ltd.

Thanks so much Dave i apreciate your information for this little problem.

In this momment i made the terminal cable from out the RS3040 (has 5 terminal the pins inside data cable are 2,3,5,7,8) only i need information from inside the connector to PC 232.

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!

Robert

PD: don´t worry i am a good technician and i no have problem for make this.

Hi, the data cable you need is as follows:
Laser - PC
1 - N/C
2 - 3
3 - 2
4 - N/C
5 - 5
6 - N/C
7 - 8
8 - 7
9 - N/C
Shield - Shield
Note that N/C = no connection.
This should get you out of trouble.
All the best. Neil (for CTRfuture Ltd)

Hi Robert,
You can use DB-9 Male-Female Null-Modem cable, also You can see the attached images for the Wiring and Pin outs if You decided to make the cable by yourself.
the machine cable only use that pins

( Male )----------------( Female)
(machine)----------------( PC)
--------------------------------------
Frame Ground<-------->Frame Ground
( 2 ) <------------------->( 3 )
( 3 ) <------------------->( 2 )
( 5 ) <------------------->( 5 )
( 7 ) <------------------->( 8 )
( 8 ) <------------------->( 7 )

Good luck.

The hx laser machines are great I supply them in the u.k you should be talking to frankfang@ethanfang.com their u.s division he is a great help because you will have problems and he is the guy to talk to we have our 60 x90 machines cutting through 15mm perspex also marking paper --very versatile
good luck chris

Hell again everyone. I finally got my replacement laser tube through the post and have fitted it, which was real easy, even for an amateur like me:) .

Unfortunately the machine is still not reacting so I can only presume that the power supply got damaged. After running water through the new tube I can see how damaged the old one must have been as it ad water in all compartemtns rather than just running through the middle! I am in contact with the guy and he is going to send me a power supply over, so fingers crossed I might be engraving in the not too distant future!!

Another thing though and sorry for butting in, could I boost the power of my laser with a stronger tube? This guy is selling tubs up to a massive 80 watt and as I want my machine to cut I was thinking the extra power could help me do this?

Here's a link to the tubes...

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Laser-Workshop_W0QQsspagenameZL2QQtZkm

...let me know what you think. Thanks

In theory you could upgrade.
Problem is the higher the wattage the longer the tube. So it is unlikely you would be able to mount it safely in your machine. The high voltage power supply would also need to be upgraded at the same time.
Paul

Here is a thought.

Start with a vector file and convert it to a "pixel" map file once it is correctly scaled. Many graphics programs should have that capability.

Yes, this is only a work-around, but you may be able to get some mileage this way.

Del

hi,

I bought an IE 300 laser engraver with Moshidraw software to do stamps. I've entered parameters, the machine responde (I've no problem with the engraving area...) but the laser power isn't constant, the laser just burn the material...I've tried a lot of things but in vain...
I've some questions:

-Is it possible to use Coreldraw X3 or else software to export file...?(I've tried but the file's size isn't good)
-Is there a driver to use the engraver with Windows, like a printer?
-Is it possible that the Moshidraw version isn't good?

Thanks for your help

PS: sorry for my approximative english...:)

abis

Hi, the data cable you need is as follows:
Laser - PC
1 - N/C
2 - 3
3 - 2
4 - N/C
5 - 5
6 - N/C
7 - 8
8 - 7
9 - N/C
Shield - Shield
Note that N/C = no connection.
This should get you out of trouble.
All the best. Neil (for CTRfuture Ltd)

I have one little problem, when send cut one circle the machinne cut but no one circle. The left and right circle is ok but the up and down make one little line.
i not sure if the problem is the software parameters or the machinne pantograph.

The engraving is all OK, circle square etc the problem is when cutting vector

The program for RS3040 is Easycut 2.0
The parameters are

HPGL Resolution 1016 DPI

Machinne Resolutions

X 1000 DPI
Y 2000 DPI

Please help me with this i not have another program for work with machinne.

Thanks fo all!!!!!

Hi Roberto,

Try this Offsets for Origin Settings
X axis=37
Y axis=72
the start will be from top left just down the table mounting screw, you may fine tune this offsets according to your machine.

I am currently thinking of selling my IE300, since business isn´t doing too well :)
The laser is a 220V and working perfectly, which I guess would be a benefit since it seems you won´t know that for sure if you buy it from IEHK.

But what do you think is a reasonable price to take for the engraver?

Hi All! anyone have another program, whitout key, the EasyCut 2.0 is very basic. I want EasyCut 4.0 or other when i see working area for job and send laser power from program.
Thanks so much for your help!!!

Good Job´s

Roberto

hi,
-Is it possible to use Coreldraw X3 or else software to export file...?(I've tried but the file's size isn't good)
-Is there a driver to use the engraver with Windows, like a printer?
-Is it possible that the Moshidraw version isn't good?
abis

Hi Abis,
I just posted a new thread on software you are looking for. It's LM300 raster and vector for Lasers. $700 savings if you buy now. $1299 down to $599. Still pricey but should be worth it and it acts just like a printer driver.
LinkMotion from Solustan
Hope it helps
Richard.

Hi All! anyone have another program, whitout key, the EasyCut 2.0 is very basic. I want EasyCut 4.0 or other when i see working area for job and send laser power from program.
Thanks so much for your help!!!

Good Job´s

Roberto

Hi Roberto,
Your machine RS3040 , it has only a potentiometer for manual laser power adjustment and there is no Power controller with PWM to control the machine power from the software.

Has anyone figured out how to use Mach 3 with one of these machines?

If I ever get my machine finished I will let you know. I am having trouble with my servo drives not working so it's going to be a while but I may convert to steppers soon if my frustration gets too much. If I get that part working then it will only be a few weeks.
I have read that it doesn't seem to control the laser very well and when engraving it cuts instead but that may be just how it was set up.
Time will tell. but then again I just bought LinkMotion software so I may not need to even try Mach3. ( I will just so I can see for myself what it does)
cheers
Rich.

You could check out LinkMotion from Solustan, Inc.
The web address is http://www.solustan.com/products/Co2Laser
Please, let us know if we can help.

DS420




hi,

I bought an IE 300 laser engraver with Moshidraw software to do stamps. I've entered parameters, the machine responde (I've no problem with the engraving area...) but the laser power isn't constant, the laser just burn the material...I've tried a lot of things but in vain...
I've some questions:

-Is it possible to use Coreldraw X3 or else software to export file...?(I've tried but the file's size isn't good)
-Is there a driver to use the engraver with Windows, like a printer?
-Is it possible that the Moshidraw version isn't good?

Thanks for your help

PS: sorry for my approximative english...:)

abis

I just purchased the LinkMotion software for $599 as they are having a SHORT time special so I don't know how long it will last. It's down from $1299 so it is a HUGE saving from the original price and it does raster and vector cutting/engraving.
Rich.

Why not call the manufacturer? Seriously, even if it's used and out of warranty the amount of time on the phone with them to get this problem fixed will be measured in minutes instead of the hours it seems like you've spent on this already. Start using your investment! Buy the proper cable and get the right drivers.

Anyone has experience about these machines from the manufactures:

http://shenhuilaser.en.alibaba.com/

http://jnruijie.en.alibaba.com/

http://zhongtailaser.en.alibaba.com/

http://goodlaser.en.alibaba.com/

http://www.huahailaser.com/main.asp

http://www.sunic.com.cn/

We are the manufacture for laser engraving/cutting machines. WE have many laser machines of good quality and reasonable price. If you need them,pls feel free to contact me.
www.wklaser.com
wanmeisuccess@hotmail.com

See ebay auctions under Laser Engaving machines

I have rj1060 from http://jnruijie.en.alibaba.com/product/50219288/51190276/Laser_Engraving_Cutting_Machines/Laser_Engraving_Cutting_Machine__RJ1060_.html and if we forgot some little problems with shipment, I am satisfied ( so far).

I have rj1060 from http://jnruijie.en.alibaba.com/product/50219288/51190276/Laser_Engraving_Cutting_Machines/Laser_Engraving_Cutting_Machine__RJ1060_.html and if we forgot some little problems with shipment, I am satisfied ( so far).

Can the machine do both cutting and engraving?

Did it come with rotary attachment and works ok for engraving on glass cups?

A solid design? Engraving Accuracy? Workmanship?

Thanks and Regards.

Rj1060 can cutting end engraving ,have a rotary attachment (optional-I have) and looking solid. http://bisa.hr/laser_mogucnosti.asp
I am beginner in laser engraving and cutting but I am satisfied with machine so far.

Hi Bibi,

Just curious. What was the price + shipment ?

Zoltan

Our laser engraving/cutting machines can engrave/cut together.
We have some optinal parts like up and downplatform, rotary attachment,
USB port, double laser head etc.
If you are interested in these machines, pls feel free to contact me.
http://jinweike.diytrade.com
wanmeisuccess@hotmail.com

Do your research on laser engravers. If you spend $3,000 on an engraver it's probably from China and its junk. Use U.S. manufactures, pay the 10K or 15K for the unit, it's worth it. If you decide to us China goods, tubes don't last, they break easliy when shipped accross seas. UPS and FED X do no cover broken laser tubes even if you paid the insurance money. Gas quality sucks. Product quality sucks. May I need say more...

The Laser Doctor

:rainfro: I do admit the laser machines from the US have better quality. The American RF tube is more durable. But you can not say the Chinese machines are junk. Our machines are also very popular worldwide. Although the laser tube have short life span and fragile, you can buy extra laser tubes and change by yourself. They have much cheaper price and more people can accept.

We can also produce machines with American tube, if you need, we can produce for you at a much expensive price.

Laser Doctor I agree with you 100% I was a fool to have purchased a laser from China It was junk from day 1 I gave a little over $2000 for it and only got to use it a total of 20 days. I got sick of it and sold it for $700 about what they are worth or less. It never worked worth a crap Oh I had bought the rs 3040A from RedSail. Junk and the support was crap!

just a quick Question - I don't seam to be able to find a machine that will "CUT" metals in particular 316 Stainless steal only looking at 1 or 2mm thick
What sort of power are we talking ???

The laser machine can not cut metals, they can only work on some non-metal materials. You can choose CNC routers /engraving machine to cut the metals.

OK that is what I am seeing -The Question is WHY???

Another way. Why don't you use plasma machine? It's very easy to cut metal.

Stailness is obviously highly reflective and not suitable for the Co2 laser. The NDYAG pulsed laser is your best bet. Try Lee Lasers they have vast amounts of experience in this area.

The Laser Doctor

First time I've heard that a CO2 laser won't cut 316 stainless. I cut up to 5/8" thick stainless on a CO2 laser everyday. It's a 4500 watt machine and just eats up stainless! A smaller 100 watt machine should cut light gauge stainless. It won't be fast, but it should cut. Nitrogen is usually used as an assist gas on the larger commercial machines. Engraving stainless should also be straight forward on a good machine.

Bill R.

Hi

New to forum

I am very new lasers but their potential seems great
Wish to buy/specify a laser cutter/engraver

Was about to specify chinesse import but this thread has made me think (took 2 hours to read)

Anyone suggest suppliers in UK
Are chinesse imports up to scratch ?


Ian

Hi Ian (Sykic),
We, ctrlasers.co.uk are the UK distributors of Redsail laser machines. You are very welcome to visit our factory and demo area for a demonstration of the machines, and discuss your requirements.
Please use our web site contact form to pass us your details if you are interested.
Best regards. Neil

First time I've heard that a CO2 laser won't cut 316 stainless. I cut up to 5/8" thick stainless on a CO2 laser everyday. It's a 4500 watt machine and just eats up stainless! A smaller 100 watt machine should cut light gauge stainless. It won't be fast, but it should cut. Nitrogen is usually used as an assist gas on the larger commercial machines. Engraving stainless should also be straight forward on a good machine.

Bill R.

Dear Bill:

I apologize for not responding sooner. I was under the impression the person wanting to cut stainless has only a low power laser <100 watt. Of course a 4.5KW co2 will cut stainless. A hobbyist with a low power Co2 shouldn't expect to do this. Please write and help this person.

Thank you

The Laser Doctor

Dear Bill:

I apologize for not responding sooner. I was under the impression the person wanting to cut stainless has only a low power laser <100 watt. Of course a 4.5KW co2 will cut stainless. A hobbyist with a low power Co2 shouldn't expect to do this. Please write and help this person.

Thank you

The Laser Doctor

I have not yet purchased a Laser but want to,.... And don't plan on buying two

Hello Ian:
You are right, laser has a potential market. You can learn konw about this before you buy the laser engraver/cutter.
The import from China is not difficult, you will be familiar with the import after you try it one time.

as I record an image with one it schemes wklaser lg1280 if alone it accepts image bmp of 2 bit is urgent please

try photograv it will solve your problem http://fishinfoolz.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=6

Just a little note for the Australian people out there who may read this thread.
When you import into Aus, you have to pay Customs import duty of 10% on anything over $1000 (up from $250 a few years ago). This gets ADDED to your original purchase price.
The cost of shipping also gets added to the price of the goods THEN the Government surcharge of 10% is added to the TOTAL cost.
So -
if I buy something worth $2348 and it costs $423 to ship it here then it will cost
$2348 + 423 = $2771

Customs of $234.80 is added = $3005 (10% of cost of product )
Then Gov GST is added to the total, inclusive if the Customs duty.(product + freight + customs duty)

Total then = $3306.30

Don't forget to budget for this when you buy something from overseas.
If you import something and have it sent through a freight service then they will act on your behalf as the import broker and fill out all the relevant documentation for you otherwise you will have to broker the goods yourself.
This involves having to download software from the Gov Customs site, get yourself verified through "Verisign" (the only trusted verification site the government uses) for about $36, or something like that, then fill out the documentation and wait for a return. About 3-5 days over the web but a lot longer of you don't use the internet.
Fed-Ex will do all this for you in the price of the shipping.

So as you can see it is worth using a freight carrier if you want the goods as quickly as possible and also saves you a minor headache when all you actually wanted is that really "cheap" laser tube.

As an aside to this I just got my laser up and running after ALL the hassles under the sun with EVERYTHING I put in it and now my new 35 watt laser seems to be only outputting about 5 watts. Its flat out cutting thin cardboard at 1 inch a minute, and I am talking thin about 0.025" Not bad for $800 worth of glass. I will try some more experiments with it today as I have only just got it running and I may have overlooked something.
I have only tried it on TTL running through Linkmotion so now I will try it using the Potentiometer as a power adjuster.
If that doesn't work then I will donate the tube to the local College and buy a RF Laser.
Geez, this laser hobby costs an arm and a leg.

Richard.

Hi Steve
I'm looking at buying the IE900 from InkExpress purely for engraving of trophies and glass ware. I will use Corel draw to run the machine. From what I have read on this forum you seem to know what you are talking about, I dont.
Do you think it would work for me?
Have been offered 2nd hand "Trotec" laser for very good price but this machine is still about 60% cheaper.
Would you take the risk?
Machine cost including frieght about $12-1,300 (IE900)

MonoNeuron,

I suggest you check the output from the potentiometer going to the tube. I suspect the potentiometer is supposed to vary the voltage from 0 to 5 VDC. It may be shipped with it turned all the way to OFF position and as a result, generating low power. Hopefully, it is that simple.

Hi Steve
I'm looking at buying the IE900 from InkExpress purely for engraving of trophies and glass ware. I will use Corel draw to run the machine. From what I have read on this forum you seem to know what you are talking about, I dont.
Do you think it would work for me?
Have been offered 2nd hand "Trotec" laser for very good price but this machine is still about 60% cheaper.
Would you take the risk?
Machine cost including frieght about $12-1,300 (IE900)

Have a read through the threads on lasers here. There have been quite a few people with a lot of problems with these low end lasers. Support is the biggest issue because something will invariably go wrong. These low end lasers are quite flaky. I think from memory that InkExpress has poor support. Someone may correct me on this.
Paul

Thanks for a reply DS420,
I wired up the tube power supply today with the potentiometer and I still came out with the same result. I cut some card board 0.015 thick and it took 2 passes at 1 inch a min at 100% power. I have had the laser tube for about 6 months waiting for me to finish building the table and what a damn disappointment it turned out to be. I bought it from PKUnlimited on EBay which I think are the makers of Emission Technologies lasers. I will send them a post tonight and see what I can do about it. It cost $250USD to send it here so I am not going to spend another $250 each way for another tube. I just received my 30 watt Universal RF laser from Shopwarehouse on Ebay who guarantee the 30 watts for a few months. It is putting out 35 watts at the moment and is last years model. I am not sure weather to disconnect the glass tube until I have a talk about it with the supplier so I will find out in a few days I guess. I will post the outcome here for all and sundry.
I had the laser up and running for about 1 1/2 hours then blew another Gecko drive on the x axis so I am now in the process of fitting another drive module from Hobby CNC. I have rewired the table 6 times now and keep getting problems with everything I touch. I think I will go on holidays and let the gremlins out of the thing as it seems to have a brain and won't let me finish it. Grrrrrrrr. Frustration is setting in after 6 months of tedium.
Rich.

I used my laser tube for six months and the power started to decrease, as I found later the chinesse laser tubes( dont know if all of them) are not best sealed , then if you use it or not the gas will last for only a few months, maybe your tube is lost of gas..
About Pk unlimited , they sell the tubes for more than 5000 hours, somewhere in the forum I found a thread telling this is a joke, it seems that this tubes are chinnesse, very expensives also.
Other problem I am having now is that when you are looking for your second tube and you try to import it by air the tubes get broken or come bad (it also have to be for the ooops.... UPS handling), we have been bringing tubes for the third time to get one in work condition, that is why I'm thinking to by one USA RF.
LUIS

This is the mail from the chinesse about the laser tubes duration:

Our engineer doesn't know the problem only by words. We suppose that it
will be better if you can send some photos to us.
As to the laser tube's life, as we know there is gas in the laser tube, and
the gas will escape from the tube very slowly. For this reason, the power
of the laser decreases after three month no matter whether it is used or
not because of gas decreasing. There are some customers bought some laser
tubes on stock (no using), after two or three months the power decreased
too).Laser tube can not work after 6 or 7 months even user never use it.
As to the machines, we have not seen before. Sorry.
Please feel free if you need more information.
Best wishes,

The tube certainly shouldn't leak. As I understand it the CO2 gets converted to CO and back as the laser fires. The gas will eventually be used and not converted back, this must mean the oxygen is reacting with some of the metal elements of the laser. If it is not being used this reaction will not happen and the laser should be able to be stored for a long time.
Is there someone who knows a bit more about this who can comment.
Paul

Paul ,long time not knowing about you , what happen with your machine , finally this guy cheated you?? Or did you get your machine?
About the leaking gas that could be bad handwork...
Luis

Paul ,long time not knowing about you , what happen with your machine , finally this guy cheated you?? Or did you get your machine?
About the leaking gas that could be bad handwork...
Luis

Still no laser after 8 months. Haven't given up though. I'm still hoping that he will eventually get it to me. I'm not going to let it go. He will have me chasing him for life.
Paul

sorry to know that Paul, Do you know if he is still selling the laser machines and the way he uses to publish it? What is the brand or the name of the machines, I have only see Hkxy nickname. I ask this because if he is offering this machines via Alibaba or MAde in china websites , you can post a complain. I dont know what can they do, but we can give a try.
What is the brand of the plane models he makes ?
Luis

I would like to add a laser to my CNC mill. I plan to use my standard machine engraving CAM and edit all the "z" down commands to an "M" code to turn the laser on. Likewise "z" up to turn off the laser.

Has anyone done this? I see the $1700 plotter/type laser mentioned. I assume I could buy the laser alone for $1000.

Comments?

Hi Bill,

Take a look at my forum, I have converted a cheap chinese laser to run from Mach 3 and I use the spindle speed to control the Laser Power, Works realy well. Please find link below

http://www.routoutcnc.co.uk/Forum/index.php?topic=17.0

Regards

Mike Gaylor

Hi Paul.
Now how's the thing going? Being resolved or not?? 8 months.. LoL. too long.. Maybe they have eaten the machine as they are so hungry. You can let us know the brand or name of the company if possible..


JackYin

Hi Mike,

I visited your forum, and it is great. Your solution for running the laser with Mach3 seems to be the answer. Could you, please, give us more details about schematics, pins, etc. For myself from the photo was little bit difficult to understand the connection and how you control it through the spindle. Also, myself I am really interested in your assist solution. Could you, please, give me more details? A sketch or drawing would be great.

Thank you.

Z

Sorry for double post.

Remeber the Laser Doctor is always here to answer your questions. Please feel free to write......

Tha Laser Doctor

Remeber the Laser Doctor is always here to answer your questions. Please feel free to write......

Tha Laser Doctor

Laser Doctor,

What do you know about the HX1290SE?

I ve had it for 2 months and cant get it going. Ive had problems with the "Datum" sensors and now need a new motherboard. Do you know of any upgrades or pointers to get this thing up and running. Anybody?

Thanks,

Arturo V, have you asked Frank Fang? This machine is from rabbit, isnt it?
Luis

Arturo V, have you asked Frank Fang? This machine is from rabbit, isnt it?
Luis

Oh Yeah,

Iam suppose to be getting a new motherboard and sensors from Frank. Has anybody installed anything like this before. It doesnt look that difficult. I guess I got to do it. This thing better work this time! How many things do we have to fix to get these Chinese lasers up and running?

Arturo

Hi Bill,

Take a look at my forum, I have converted a cheap chinese laser to run from Mach 3 and I use the spindle speed to control the Laser Power, Works realy well. Please find link below

http://www.cnczone.com/Forum/index.php?topic=17.0

Regards

Mike Gaylor

It seems that this forum not exist (chair)

Hey guys, just wanted to let everyone know that I am in the process of making my own laser cutter / engraver. It will be using a 60W CO2 laser from China, Mach 3 software and Gecko drives. System is also water cooled.
Cutting area will be 49" x 13". I am a few months away from turning it on, but I will be posting pics as to my progress.

A problem that I haven't figured out how to control the output power of the laser so that I can mark/engrave as well as cut using the same dxf program.
I would like to use different colours in the drawing to moderate the output...but I am not sure how to do that yet. Any idea?

Richard

Try looking over this solution for laser output power control:

http://www.solustan.com/products

LinkMotion seems to fit the bill. I was putting together as system simular to yours, and this was the software driver I would be using.

Karl

Hey guys, just wanted to let everyone know that I am in the process of making my own laser cutter / engraver. It will be using a 60W CO2 laser from China, Mach 3 software and Gecko drives. System is also water cooled.
Cutting area will be 49" x 13". I am a few months away from turning it on, but I will be posting pics as to my progress.

A problem that I haven't figured out how to control the output power of the laser so that I can mark/engrave as well as cut using the same dxf program.
I would like to use different colours in the drawing to moderate the output...but I am not sure how to do that yet. Any idea?

Richard
Mach 3 has provision for laser control. The Chinese laser power supply uses PWM and Mach3 spindle control can be set up for PWM. This has been discussed on the Mach3 forum. Search there for further info

Hiii hx
i nee d some halp about moshi draw.i need moshi draw user menual.coz i don find any mode for cuting.and i also looking for delership for uk and urope any good chines laser machine manufacturing compny.

Hi HKXY I want to know if you already finish the laser machine for PAULC From the thread CHINESE LASERS. About 10 months ago you sold a machine to Paul and the thread (about 17 pages!!)it is about the same issue: YOU DID NOT MAKE THE MACHINE. If you already make it, I apologize but if you dont I think all the people coming to the forum should know about it.

mabe this is something to look for:

Hello, my friend at www.ams-laser.com is willing to setup a DIY site for a laser cutter/engraver, if there is enough interest in it, please reply with your vote, it will be a user donation suported site (not mandatory to acsess) and to start there will be ONE full set of instuctions to build a machine on the cheap. ( less than 3,000 for a 24" by 36"). Her page is in spanish but the diy page will be in english so cast your vote in the poll tread or e-mail her at info@ams-laser.com

Thanks

Arturo, just get solustan software and get rid of the motherboard

Remeber the Laser Doctor is always here to answer your questions. Please feel free to write......

Tha Laser Doctor

heloo
i am Doru from Romania, i want to buy a laser engravers from China (laser world, beijing) YH G9060C
and please tel me you have more details to this models,
My english is too bad,apology

My email adress :doru2dumitrescu@yahoo.com

Hi HKXY I want to know if you already finish the laser machine for PAULC From the thread CHINESE LASERS. About 10 months ago you sold a machine to Paul and the thread (about 17 pages!!)it is about the same issue: YOU DID NOT MAKE THE MACHINE. If you already make it, I apologize but if you dont I think all the people coming to the forum should know about it.

Still no progress from HKXY. He keeps saying he is arranging the shipping but nothing happens. Getting my hopes up to no avail. A modern form of Chinese torture.

Sorry to know that. You take the risk to show us that option, but I never think it was going to be that bad.
Luis

Hey guys, just wanted to let everyone know that I am in the process of making my own laser cutter / engraver. It will be using a 60W CO2 laser from China, Mach 3 software and Gecko drives. System is also water cooled.
Cutting area will be 49" x 13". I am a few months away from turning it on, but I will be posting pics as to my progress.

A problem that I haven't figured out how to control the output power of the laser so that I can mark/engrave as well as cut using the same dxf program.
I would like to use different colours in the drawing to moderate the output...but I am not sure how to do that yet. Any idea?

Richard


Sorry the solustan option just sucks, Ive tried them out. The controller uses a Printer Port and is very slow when you are running the machine and using the PC at the same time. We went with

http://www.testra.com/Motion/SS4544/Specs-SS.html

He sells a print driver as well and its *Almost* the same and an ULS system

Chris

Soooo, what have we learned over the past year and a half and 61+ pages of posts? For starters, Chinese companies are a crapshoot. I think this comes mainly from their way of doing business, something unfamiliar to "Western" business practitioners. I've been bitten before, myself, though that was with flexible PCBs, not laser cutters... even if a mistake is their fault, if you want it fixed you pay again. Combine that foreign attitude with a lack of quality control and you have a recipe for multiple outlays of cash. They do not really care about repeat business as they believe there will be another customer right around the corner (and they are usually correct). Why give a free replacement to a customer who will pay for the same item if he needs it bad enough? Long-term business relationships don't mean the same thing there as here.

hkxy obviously showed his true colors, but that didn't surprise me due to his eagerness to get a hold of someone's (anyone's!) money. Ink Express and Redsail have also been hit or miss, due in part it seems, to the above-mentioned Chinese business mindset. Chinese manufacturing can be of a high level of quality, but finding the company/individual willing to create such a level is difficult. I'm quite reluctant to try any of them without the protection of a credit card company to back me up in case the transaction goes south in a hurry. I'll gladly wait a couple of weeks for a broken tube or power supply to be replaced as shipping issues do happen, especially over such long distances, but the company must be willing to step up to the plate and resolve the issue with minimal hassle. Again, I'll gladly pay for shipping if I feel a broken tube was packaged properly the first time... if it was poorly packaged and breaks, then I feel it is up to the company to ship at its own cost, not mine. To even suggest the customer must have broken it when there is no evidence to support such a claim is not only poor customer service, it shows a lack of honorable intention on the part of the company (and yes, I'll admit that dishonorable customers do exist, I've unfortunately had to deal with them on occasion... but I initially give them the benefit of the doubt).



Now, with that rant over, on to the real reasons for my post, some questions.
1) Who can supply 40-100W tubes for a reasonable fee and has a decent track record of supplying a working tube? By "reasonable", I means something in the sub-$1k range... please don't send me links to RF units as those are multi-$k and don't fit in the hobby budget.
2) What plans are available for the mechanics of large-ish CNC tables (say 2'x2' and up)? Free is best :) I'm sure I could come up with my own design with enough tinkering, and I have access to a full machine shop at work, but starting from known good plans are always a bonus.
3) What kind of steppers and drivers are people using and happy with? It seems gecko drives are a popular bunch, but I'd like all available opinions. I hold an MSEE, so I would have no problem designing my own driver boards and such, but again, starting from a known good design is always a bonus.
4) What about drivers? Mach 3 seems to be a relatively inexpensive yet powerful option, and again, it seems to be a fave of many here. Opinions?



Some rough thoughts on what I intend to make for a table. I'm interested in cutting and etching acrylics (and ABS), no more than 12-13mm but typically 5mm, but I would like a smooth edge without extra steps such as firing. I understand a 40W would have no problem with the thinner plastics, particularly with multiple passes, but it may have issues with rough edges, something I'd like to avoid.

I expect to control the laser through PWM, not analog, to avoid issues with varying cutting speed and laser output... retrofitting an analog-controlled laser to PWM would be a relatively simple project. At some point in the not-so-near future (i.e., if money becomes no object), I will upgrade to a proper RF unit. Until then, I will attempt to have the tube regassed locally from time to time.

The ability to cut deep objects is not a necessity, but would be nice, so I intend to add in an elevator platform. First, 2D... 3D will come with time.

If I don't get many responses in here, maybe I'll make this a separate post. Let's see if we can pull this dismal state of laser cutting/etching out of the dumpster and put together some quality machines!

hello Mac

as a laser machines and cnc routers importer for the last 1 year i agree with u about the Chinese exporters

we hade bad expiriense with redsail-exectly as u said-they will never admit for their mistake and we will have to pay for the wrong parts and shipping....
shipping back the machines will cost us the same price of the machine it self.

Today we buy machine in different way :
we choose the parts we want inside the machines:optic,motors,tubes.....becouse u dont want them to put the cheap parts they choose to make there profit bigger as they can.
every big order i fly to make quality controll by my self b4 they ship it to us.The quality controll is allmost 0.

so this is the only way to get good quality.

for the laser tubes:there are many qualities in China for laser tubes:different dot size,life time....u beter know what tube u want.

same with optics!!!cheap mirrors will crack fast.

U never know who is behind the website<>it can be just a dealler that canot give u good support

high prices not allways means good quality

CATastrophe

Hello,
For all that dont know, i have offered free tech support to anione with a red-sail machine, i have learned that some times the bigest barrier is the language and not the lack of support, after all they cannot support if they don`t understand the issue, and also y will try to help any one else who is in trouble with the overseas machines.

please help me get the DIY site poll over 50% yes and this will bring us plans to a comercially available machine as open source, im trying to convince my friend that by making her machine open source it can be enhanced by all of us, and that she will still be making some cash out of the parts, kits etc.

i can supply tubes for a reasonable price if i can get enoug people to order some, im in direct contact with manufacturer and their prices are rock bottom, if someone is interested in helping me buy the minimum order i will share the pricing, and a 100 watt tube is less than 500USD

Thanks.

Soooo, what have we learned over the past year and a half and 61+ pages of posts? For starters, Chinese companies are a crapshoot. I think this comes mainly from their way of doing business, something unfamiliar to "Western" business practitioners. I've been bitten before, myself, though that was with flexible PCBs, not laser cutters... even if a mistake is their fault, if you want it fixed you pay again. Combine that foreign attitude with a lack of quality control and you have a recipe for multiple outlays of cash. They do not really care about repeat business as they believe there will be another customer right around the corner (and they are usually correct). Why give a free replacement to a customer who will pay for the same item if he needs it bad enough? Long-term business relationships don't mean the same thing there as here.

hkxy obviously showed his true colors, but that didn't surprise me due to his eagerness to get a hold of someone's (anyone's!) money. Ink Express and Redsail have also been hit or miss, due in part it seems, to the above-mentioned Chinese business mindset. Chinese manufacturing can be of a high level of quality, but finding the company/individual willing to create such a level is difficult. I'm quite reluctant to try any of them without the protection of a credit card company to back me up in case the transaction goes south in a hurry. I'll gladly wait a couple of weeks for a broken tube or power supply to be replaced as shipping issues do happen, especially over such long distances, but the company must be willing to step up to the plate and resolve the issue with minimal hassle. Again, I'll gladly pay for shipping if I feel a broken tube was packaged properly the first time... if it was poorly packaged and breaks, then I feel it is up to the company to ship at its own cost, not mine. To even suggest the customer must have broken it when there is no evidence to support such a claim is not only poor customer service, it shows a lack of honorable intention on the part of the company (and yes, I'll admit that dishonorable customers do exist, I've unfortunately had to deal with them on occasion... but I initially give them the benefit of the doubt).



Now, with that rant over, on to the real reasons for my post, some questions.
1) Who can supply 40-100W tubes for a reasonable fee and has a decent track record of supplying a working tube? By "reasonable", I means something in the sub-$1k range... please don't send me links to RF units as those are multi-$k and don't fit in the hobby budget.
2) What plans are available for the mechanics of large-ish CNC tables (say 2'x2' and up)? Free is best :) I'm sure I could come up with my own design with enough tinkering, and I have access to a full machine shop at work, but starting from known good plans are always a bonus.
3) What kind of steppers and drivers are people using and happy with? It seems gecko drives are a popular bunch, but I'd like all available opinions. I hold an MSEE, so I would have no problem designing my own driver boards and such, but again, starting from a known good design is always a bonus.
4) What about drivers? Mach 3 seems to be a relatively inexpensive yet powerful option, and again, it seems to be a fave of many here. Opinions?



Some rough thoughts on what I intend to make for a table. I'm interested in cutting and etching acrylics (and ABS), no more than 12-13mm but typically 5mm, but I would like a smooth edge without extra steps such as firing. I understand a 40W would have no problem with the thinner plastics, particularly with multiple passes, but it may have issues with rough edges, something I'd like to avoid.

I expect to control the laser through PWM, not analog, to avoid issues with varying cutting speed and laser output... retrofitting an analog-controlled laser to PWM would be a relatively simple project. At some point in the not-so-near future (i.e., if money becomes no object), I will upgrade to a proper RF unit. Until then, I will attempt to have the tube regassed locally from time to time.

The ability to cut deep objects is not a necessity, but would be nice, so I intend to add in an elevator platform. First, 2D... 3D will come with time.

If I don't get many responses in here, maybe I'll make this a separate post. Let's see if we can pull this dismal state of laser cutting/etching out of the dumpster and put together some quality machines!

Wow, what's with the bashing here?
I tend to agree typically Chinese manufactured product unless selected carefully are sub par quality. However, it lies heavily on buyer's self educaiton to spot the differences and willingness to work through certain quarks.
I have Syil X3 CNC machine imported from China (now they have American branch) which I am completely happy with, I have LG500 DSP version with PWM laser power control from China from wklaser which I am completely happy with... Since I didn't have huge budget while really needed to get these type of machinary to start up my company in right direction, I had to take certain chances and it paid off from where I stand.
So far laser engraver has been cutting over 50 hours without any issues, bit arcane software but I can deal with that, cnc machine hasn't seen much use (well it has more to due with gathering rest of important thing for me such as cooling using no coolant).
I can see where frustration can happen when things don't work right but just straigh bashing entire Chinese product to me sounds pretty offensive to me when half the electronics we buy are made in there already.
Word of advice for Chinese manufacturers of these... get US distributor like Syil did. Let them make a little profit here and there and work with end user in their native language. Communication can resolve MOST of problems.

Hello,
........, if someone is interested in helping me buy the minimum order i will share the pricing, and a 100 watt tube is less than 500USD

Thanks.


what is the minimum oreder and how can we be sure of details? what is the warrenty??

I am interested and would like more details

Minimum order is 20pices, what details you need ??, warranty is 3 months on tubes.

If I can pay by credit card I would be interested... otherwise there's nothing stopping you from walking away with my money, and this is what the problem has been. With no way to hold the sellers responsible for their mistakes and/or shoddy quality control, they'll will continue to leave us holding the bag.

Look at hkxy... he came on here Jonesing to sell us some equipment, and now we know why. He was sent money and now he's enjoying spending it, with nothing to show for it. At least with a credit card I can get my money back if no product shows up.

Would you be ok if we use ebay? or paypal ?, unless you can come in peson to our office and swipe your card, due to card fraud we no loger take credit cards by phone.

Thanks

Would you be ok if we use ebay? or paypal ?, unless you can come in peson to our office and swipe your card, due to card fraud we no loger take credit cards by phone.

Thanks
eBay is merely an auction house, not a method of payment, so that's irrelevant. PayPal is marginally okay, but I would want to see others with a positive buying experience... PayPal is notorious for not being able to return money to defrauded buyers, leaving them in the same boat as wire transfer buyers. The one positive aspect is I can use my credit card to pay the PayPal bill, giving me the protection of the credit card, but if I'm forced to dispute the transaction with my credit card company due to a fraudulent order, PayPal will delete my account. All it takes is one fraudulent order to destroy a PayPal account, so I'm leery even doing that... but the possibility is much higher than me ever using a wire transfer.

Showing up in person does not prevent someone from using a stolen credit card, it simply provides a false sense of security to the merchant and causes a hassle for the buyer. I've had more fraud attempts with in-person card swipes than I ever have through my website's e-cart.

My company accepts credit cards through an e-cart... it takes care of address verification, and we automatically reject IPs from countries known to be fraud-ridden (such as Nigeria). We personally scan each order for fraud red flags (which I suggest you do) before letting the order through and reject any that don't meet obvious criteria.

There's a fine line between making it a convenient and pleasant shopping experience to your buyers while avoiding fraudulent orders. In western culture, we're all about consumer rights, and companies that fail to offer great customer service or take their money and run will never get a long line of customers waiting to purchase something. It's a little extra work to provide the buyer the comforting feeling they desire, especially after the sale, but it helps guarantee a continuous flow of traffic to the merchant through word-of-mouth sales (something my company thrives on!). I don't have a single dissatisfied customer out there, and that ensures they tell their friends to shop at my place rather than try someone they're unsure about.

what is the life on the product (tubes) and what are the return policies?
...The more information you can provide te more chance Ppl will be inclinde to hand over a few $$$,

Already you have started to help Ppl by simple responding to questions in a timely fashion,
[this is nothing against you ] ..but we have so often seen keen energetic Ppl untill they recieve Ppls $$ then nothing,

If you have your details and a biography of your self / your bussiness, this might help other make a commitment

Well I hate to say it, but I think we just got our answer. Either that or he (mexico.redsail) is on an extended vacation. I have been watching this thread but keeping my comments out. The thought of a 100 watt tube for less than $500 is intriguing. Were we talking about a sealed gas tube?

Hi All,
If I want to buy laser tube and power supply more than 100 watts,where can I buy? I want to cut the thickness of metal about 3 mm.

Cheers,
Mongkol

I dont think you can cut it with "more than 100w" For that thickness you will need about 800 w 1kv or more. And I dont think CO2 will work.
Try Farleylaserlab.com,

safe, not sure what you're talking about... Mexico.redsail posted as late as yesterday and has been doing so on and off for the last several weeks.

Monkol, consider a Yag laser rather than CO2...

Hello, i did not received the thread notifications, you are welcome to contact me off forum at eduardo.enriquez@lunags.com, i have seen many posts about people saying that lasers loose their gas and that if you store one for 6-7 months would be useless, i have to say that this is true only if there is poor quality on the gas seals, and lasers dont loose their gas, actually they might gain air LoL, it is some vaccum inside with little gases(co2 mix), also i have received in the past some lasers at half their rated power, my guess is that some people are sending us used tubes, i have worked with supplier to guarantee the rated output, so please feel free to ask any questions, besides usin paypal im trying to get a POS terminal that would take phone orders, but meantime, you are welcome to either use paypal or come in person and swipe your card.

Thanks
Eduardo Enriquez


Well I hate to say it, but I think we just got our answer. Either that or he (mexico.redsail) is on an extended vacation. I have been watching this thread but keeping my comments out. The thought of a 100 watt tube for less than $500 is intriguing. Were we talking about a sealed gas tube?

hello, i could setup a shopping cart on my site to take credit cards, but still paypal would be the processor, i have a merchant account.
Thanks


eBay is merely an auction house, not a method of payment, so that's irrelevant. PayPal is marginally okay, but I would want to see others with a positive buying experience... PayPal is notorious for not being able to return money to defrauded buyers, leaving them in the same boat as wire transfer buyers. The one positive aspect is I can use my credit card to pay the PayPal bill, giving me the protection of the credit card, but if I'm forced to dispute the transaction with my credit card company due to a fraudulent order, PayPal will delete my account. All it takes is one fraudulent order to destroy a PayPal account, so I'm leery even doing that... but the possibility is much higher than me ever using a wire transfer.

Showing up in person does not prevent someone from using a stolen credit card, it simply provides a false sense of security to the merchant and causes a hassle for the buyer. I've had more fraud attempts with in-person card swipes than I ever have through my website's e-cart.

My company accepts credit cards through an e-cart... it takes care of address verification, and we automatically reject IPs from countries known to be fraud-ridden (such as Nigeria). We personally scan each order for fraud red flags (which I suggest you do) before letting the order through and reject any that don't meet obvious criteria.

There's a fine line between making it a convenient and pleasant shopping experience to your buyers while avoiding fraudulent orders. In western culture, we're all about consumer rights, and companies that fail to offer great customer service or take their money and run will never get a long line of customers waiting to purchase something. It's a little extra work to provide the buyer the comforting feeling they desire, especially after the sale, but it helps guarantee a continuous flow of traffic to the merchant through word-of-mouth sales (something my company thrives on!). I don't have a single dissatisfied customer out there, and that ensures they tell their friends to shop at my place rather than try someone they're unsure about.

Life on these sealed lasers is about 2,000 operating hours, i will gladly accept returns for only 1 reason, if they not meet their rated power.

I work for 2 World wide company as a Quality Engineer for Luna Global Solutions, and as Senior Inspector for SQA Services, i have built a laser since school and have 7 years experience dealing with laser cutter/engraver,
currently have 3 year experience dealing with overseas suppliers.

Regards
Eduardo Enriquez
eduardo.enriquez@lunags.com


what is the life on the product (tubes) and what are the return policies?
...The more information you can provide te more chance Ppl will be inclinde to hand over a few $$$,

Already you have started to help Ppl by simple responding to questions in a timely fashion,
[this is nothing against you ] ..but we have so often seen keen energetic Ppl untill they recieve Ppls $$ then nothing,

If you have your details and a biography of your self / your bussiness, this might help other make a commitment

Ok, i will try to explain, firs this aplies only to laser cut 5.0 and USB MPC05 controller, second im not responible if you break anything.

1st case, "SOFTWARE MANUAL REFERS TO SOME OPTIONS NOT AVAILABLE IN SOFTWARE SUCH AS HOLE AND GRADE ENGRAVE"

FIX: "LOCATE THE FOLLOWING OPTION IN YOR INI FILE MAKE SURE CODE NUMBER=4"
[Technics]
CreateTechnicsCodeNumber=4
CreateTechnicsCodeDefaultMode=TECHNICS_LASERCUT

2nd issue: "LASER POWER CONTROLL IS NOT ACURATE, IF I SET TO 1% OR 100% I GET SAME RESULTS"

Fix: This is a little mor complex, there could be 3 things wrong, 1st make sure on the ini you have:
LaserPowerMode=0
next you must check that the laser powersupply PWM input is connected corectly to the MPC05 and that the output mode jumper on the controller is set to PWM, i will try to get some pictures later, bu meanwhile you can download the manual from www.stepservo.com they are the control board manufacturer for most overseas machines.

Regards
Eduardo Enriquez
www.ams-laser.com

mexico Redsail,
do you sell kits
tube mirrors and lenses etc...
do you sell complete items (plug and play)

safe, not sure what you're talking about... Mexico.redsail posted as late as yesterday and has been doing so on and off for the last several weeks.

Monkol, consider a Yag laser rather than CO2...

Hi MacGyver,
Thanks for your info. I think Yag is surely better but it's difficult to buy Yag laser.I have a little detail of Yag.
I only know it's very expensive. Who can advise me if I want to buy yag laser? It shouldn't be more expensive.

:withstupi
Cheers,
Mongkol

I need to echo the numerous people that have complimented this thread. So much great information, and a great attempt to search for a workable “low cost” laser engraving / cutting system. I think that MacGyver summed it up perfectly in post # 723.
- HKXY is MIA?
- Redsail looks promising at first BUT shipping the unit in one piece is hard
- Ink Express seems to have more running machines but no customer support

We have not hear too much about the WK laser. Thanks to all for the great posts. I have learned a lot, reading the past 700+ posts.

You don't usually cut 3mm steel with a yag laser. You use a CO2 laser and oxygen assist gas.

You can probably do it at several IPM with a 200 watt CO2 laser. 200 watts is well past most sealed glass tube co2 lasers but still within reason for sealed rf excited slab lasers with folded beampaths. Of course when you price these lasers you might want to also look at plasma cutting. punching or just plain cnc milling...

Coleclan , be carefull with HKXY , this thread begins with Paul C buying him a laser machine almost one year ago, he received the money and never send the machine.
If you are looking for a machine, safe buying try wklaser, looks good and has some people happy with it, rabbit laser, and mine, I bougth it one year ago from Zongtai.
As you say Ink express has not postsale support.
Luis

Hi, sir., yes you can contact us to buy a lasers safely.. But if anybody are in USA, you can just contact our agent, because we have a sole agent in USA. The below is his info:

(909) 936-5554
Mr Jim

Hi, sir., yes you can contact us to buy a lasers safely.. But if anybody are in USA, you can just contact our agent, because we have a sole agent in USA. The below is his info:

(909) 936-5554
Mr Jim

Well, nice and dandy, is this Bright Laser you are referring to which hasn't called me back for request on honeycomb about 5 days ago?
Or, is it you who hasn't responded to my last 9-10 messanger messages and 2 e-mails in past 3 weeks.
Please don't make me antagnostic Jack... I've held on pretty long tolerating this lack of support but I won't let this keep going on this way.
As for bright laser, despite the fact I got my machine even before they started reselling in US, they really didn't want to talk to me at all because I got it from China... hmmm....
At this rate when the bulb dies, I will never likely go back to chinese laser engraver just because of lack of support and attitude.

Hi, sir., yes you can contact us to buy a lasers safely.. But if anybody are in USA, you can just contact our agent, because we have a sole agent in USA. The below is his info:

(909) 936-5554
Mr Jim

Your agent, brightstarlasers, is charging too much money for your machines. I think this will cost you business. I know they only sell the LG engraving models, but why would someone want to pay $11,000.00 or $12,000.00 more for an LG900 than what it costs to buy directly from you? Sure, they offer a 2 year full coverage warranty and on site setup (I think) but the numbers just don't add up. They are making a huge profit on each machine. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Thanks,
Skip

Skip,
You are right on the money from what I have seen. I think a $2500 premium over what they pay for a unit from China including freight, would probably move those lasers out of his warehouse like hotcakes but at his prices I don't see how he sells any. I don't mind a man making a profit but not all of it off of me.

CAUTION !
CAUTION !
CAUTION !

www.laser999.cn WILL TRY TO DOWNLOAD A VIRUS TO YOUR COMPUTER! (a malware.bc)

CAUTION !
CAUTION !
CAUTION !

Signed,
jmg

Unfortunately at this point after waiting to hear back too far, I can't recommend wklaser to ANYONE anymore. Well maybe those of you who already knows hot to fix everything and knows how to do focusing, etc and when something isn't right can fix it himself (including sourcing parts).
One quick example about 4 weeks ago. I got frustrated at the same time, I was intrigued by their router. Guess what, the person who didn't reply at all to me on msn for weeks would suddenly get back to me in seconds once I ask price of router, even spend the time to send me pricing list ,etc. ALL THEY WANT IS SELL SELL SELL and make quick money with no regard to how their reputation will be in future. Good way to grow busines right?
I think I am really through and to be quite frank, I am just glad the machine works as is now knowing I probably won't get any support from them NOR Brightlaser who didn't even talk to me.

Unfortunately at this point after waiting to hear back too far, I can't recommend wklaser to ANYONE anymore. Well maybe those of you who already knows hot to fix everything and knows how to do focusing, etc and when something isn't right can fix it himself (including sourcing parts).
One quick example about 4 weeks ago. I got frustrated at the same time, I was intrigued by their router. Guess what, the person who didn't reply at all to me on msn for weeks would suddenly get back to me in seconds once I ask price of router, even spend the time to send me pricing list ,etc. ALL THEY WANT IS SELL SELL SELL and make quick money with no regard to how their reputation will be in future. Good way to grow busines right?
I think I am really through and to be quite frank, I am just glad the machine works as is now knowing I probably won't get any support from them NOR Brightlaser who didn't even talk to me.

Sorry to hear of your problems Jinu. They were doing so good, I wonder what the problem is? I'd be pissed too if I were you.

Don't even waste your time with Bright Star. I saw on another forum that some guy actually bought a laser from them and he paid 750.00 extra for them to come to his location and set it up, and to show him how to run it. First they lost his machine, then when it was finally found and delivered, the guy that came to set it up didn't know very much about it. The new owner said he sure didn't get his 750.00 worth.

I had emailed them about a replacement mirror a couple of weeks ago and never heard from them either.

Is there something with your machine that maybe someone on the forum here could help you with? Or maybe I could?

Skip

Thank you for your offer SkipW.
It's actually quite simple thing... for someone who knows. I want to know how to change focal length of my laser engraver as it seems to have been set a little lose on my machine. I really don't think I need to use 60% to cut through 1/8th inch of neoprene foam at speed of 20. Not to mention if it is 1/4" thick than it is better for me to run 3 passes at it 60% at speed of 25 to get the cut done. 1/2" thick acrylic need to be cut slower and multiple passes which doesn't sound right from what I've seen some 30-40w lasers done. I think it is just matter of getting focusing done.
I got from tube to first reflector good, I got 2nd reflector done good too.
I am wondering what I need to do at 3rd reflector and lens itself maybe (I am not sure how to change focus on lens itself if it is even possible?) to get the full effect.
It would have been quite simple thing from one of their engineer as they do this daily basis I believe to write me instruction and maybe take some pictures... but alas... no luck there.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45663

What model is that? Is it a wklaser? It looks to me that the only way to greatly change the focus would be to raise or lower the table, is that possible?

I did see two slotted screw holes on the back plate of the lens and mirror holder that would give you what, 1/4" of up and down travel?

Did it come with any type of focus guage?

It's WKLaser's LG500tt. DSP 5.0 or whatever the software is called controls it.
Yes raising and lowering table is possible by moving belt under table (I think they designed it with autofocus in mind) I have played with height control to find the "sweet spot" which still isn't what I would like to see at the moment.
Focus gauge? what is that?
I was thinking about that on 2 slotted screw for moving up and down... Looks bit more than 1/4" travel I have there. So you think it might be that I move it up & down and redo the reflection from 2nd lense to last lense would do some focus adjustment? I would guess it could since distance from origin of beam to lense would move. But than, isn't it pretty much parallel beam up to lense for this?
It's nice to have someone who is willing to help. Kudos to you SkipW.

The focus gauge is the clear plastic piece in the upper left corner. You set the left end of it on the piece you are going to laser, then raise or lower you table until the guage is even with your lens. I've posted some crappy pictures but maybe you can see what I'm trying to say.

I think yours has a 2" focus length (approx.) so just use a tape measure to measure from the top of the piece your are going to laser, to the bottom of the lip on your laser head where the lens is. Since it's open and you can see the lens, you can probably eyeball it pretty close. You want the lens 2" above the top of the piece you are going to cut/engrave. Raise or lower the table until you have a 2" distance. If you aren't happy with the cut, drop the table maybe 1/32" and see if it's getting better. Mine works best at about a 2 1/8 inch distance with the 50mm (2") lens.

Did you get any CD's besides the software CD? Usually there are some videos that show a little more on the CD's.

Strange... I didn't get that plastic piece so it is just 54mm? The CD I received (video was corrupt and couldn't be used). The software one was okay though. What is the black thing on your bottom right of first picture?

Strange... I didn't get that plastic piece so it is just 54mm? The CD I received (video was corrupt and couldn't be used). The software one was okay though. What is the black thing on your bottom right of first picture?

Yea, about 2 1/8" actually. That should put you in the ballpark. That little round black thing in the picture fits in the mirror hole on my laser head (see pic) and it's slotted to hold a piece of paper and acts like a bullseye with the crosshair wires for aligning mirror number 2 with #3.

Did you get that message about the A4dable Woodworking forum that's for model 500 users? I'm sure you can get some valuable information there on this model.

Skip

Thanks a ton :) I will check into that place. As for the black thing... no I don't have one -_-; I wouldn't mind closer up of picture sent to me with some measurement so I can make it on mill.

Thanks a ton :) I will check into that place. As for the black thing... no I don't have one -_-; I wouldn't mind closer up of picture sent to me with some measurement so I can make it on mill.

Your mirror on your laser head doesn't have a cover over it does it? Or did you remove it? All you really need to do is to cut a circle the same size as your mirror out of a piece of thick cardboard, or thin wood is even better. Then put it over your mirror and tape it in place. Fire a test shot and see if it is hitting in the center of your paper/wood.

If that's okay, lay a piece of cardboard between the mirror and lens. Press down on it a little so you can see the ring on the bottom of the cardboard and fire a shot to make sure the beam is centered on the lens. You don't want to burn through it, just mark it.

Check out the A4dable Woodworking forum. I believe they discuss all of this is greater detail.

Skip

Well, guess what... I registered there but no response to actual approval of registration. Right now, I noticed after reading through some discussion that my laser beam from lense to object is not quite straight... it is about 4mm or so to the left. How should I adjust for this?
Also, I am in need of vacuum table such as this...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150152758471
The e-bayer he seems is out of town all together after some finding out and calling on phone through related company. (might explain why there was no resposne to my e-bay message to him)
Is there any other source for such vacuum table?

The distance for focusing is 59mm and if you go to wklasers site you can download a manaul with all you need to operate your machine , if you cant get this send me a private message with your email and i will send you this but there are 70 pages, i trust you have earthed your machine into the ground with a 1200mm rod and 6mm earth cable

Well, guess what... I registered there but no response to actual approval of registration. Right now, I noticed after reading through some discussion that my laser beam from lense to object is not quite straight... it is about 4mm or so to the left. How should I adjust for this?
Also, I am in need of vacuum table such as this...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150152758471
The e-bayer he seems is out of town all together after some finding out and calling on phone through related company. (might explain why there was no resposne to my e-bay message to him)
Is there any other source for such vacuum table?

That must be what those two slotted screw holes are for on the laser head. Loosen the screws up and you'll be able to move the lens and cone left or right a little. 4mm is over 1/8" are you sure it's off that much?

That forum might just be for people who have purchased their laser from A4dable Woodworking.

That vacuum table looks good if you are just going to hold down stuff that you aren't going to cut all the way through. Like v-bit routing signs etc.

That must be what those two slotted screw holes are for on the laser head. Loosen the screws up and you'll be able to move the lens and cone left or right a little. 4mm is over 1/8" are you sure it's off that much?

That forum might just be for people who have purchased their laser from A4dable Woodworking.

That vacuum table looks good if you are just going to hold down stuff that you aren't going to cut all the way through. Like v-bit routing signs etc.

Yes it is off by that much now. I guess it's time for me to readjust a on that part. I hope forum is a little more open in case it is just for A4dable... I could definitely use some help and will be their future customer most likely (despite the fact I am only 30 minute drive to 1 hour drive away from brightlaser).
Vacuum table will be placed under honeycomb if I can get one to cut through actually. These neoprenes never seem to get shipped flat and it's been pain to lay them flat. And sometimes, I need to do shape of 15 pieces out of full tables about 10 times a batch. It can be real pain trying to place them flat (tried few different jigging method but non of them really can hold entire sheet flat... vacuum table should help there definitely).

Yes it is off by that much now. I guess it's time for me to readjust a on that part. I hope forum is a little more open in case it is just for A4dable... I could definitely use some help and will be their future customer most likely (despite the fact I am only 30 minute drive to 1 hour drive away from brightlaser).
Vacuum table will be placed under honeycomb if I can get one to cut through actually. These neoprenes never seem to get shipped flat and it's been pain to lay them flat. And sometimes, I need to do shape of 15 pieces out of full tables about 10 times a batch. It can be real pain trying to place them flat (tried few different jigging method but non of them really can hold entire sheet flat... vacuum table should help there definitely).

My honeycomb table on my laser is steel, not aluminum, is yours? I had a bowed piece I wanted to cut and I stuck a small powerful magnet on it and it worked great, flattened it right out. Of course you have to make sure you don't hit the magnet but you could always pause the machine after a piece is cutout, before it starts the next cutout, and move the magnet. Just an idea.... that may or may not work for you.

My honeycomb table on my laser is steel, not aluminum, is yours? I had a bowed piece I wanted to cut and I stuck a small powerful magnet on it and it worked great, flattened it right out. Of course you have to make sure you don't hit the magnet but you could always pause the machine after a piece is cutout, before it starts the next cutout, and move the magnet. Just an idea.... that may or may not work for you.

Mine is actually aluminum. I guess I could make small corners filled with steel nut and still use your idea :) (after all, it is hexagonal :) Hope magnet is strong enough... thanks for the idea ;)

Hey guys, if you are looking for lasers, support and so on, in the US, you might try this place:

http://www.the-lasersedge.com/index.html

contact Dean at this location, his email address is on the site. He is selling the HX laser line, it is the same machine as the HK laser. The big difference here is that he sells the laser in the US for $8000 for the 80W 1290SE (900 x 1200 mm)unit - bigger than the HK900 unit. This is the same machine as what I have, although I purchased mine direct. By the time I got my machine home and set up, I had paid out approximately $7000 CDN, so by comparision, from a dealer, the price of $8K is a fair price, plus you will have local US support, from someone who can speak the language well. Now that is a better deal than getting butt raped for over $21K by - well you know who.

Dean is also carrying spare laser tubes, and I am quite sure they are exactly the same as the ones in the HK laser units.

Check him out and support him if you can.

Pete




Your agent, brightstarlasers, is charging too much money for your machines. I think this will cost you business. I know they only sell the LG engraving models, but why would someone want to pay $11,000.00 or $12,000.00 more for an LG900 than what it costs to buy directly from you? Sure, they offer a 2 year full coverage warranty and on site setup (I think) but the numbers just don't add up. They are making a huge profit on each machine. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Thanks,
Skip

From The Laser's Edge website:All Machines Carry a 1 Year Warranty through the Manufacture.
So, you have protection if anything is broken during shipment, but after that you'll still be shipping anything needing repairs back to China... that ain't cheap.

So, your point is:....? I think you mean then that it is acceptable to pay the super escalated price of over $21k just so you can have an additional year's warranty? If you are that dumb to pay that much money, then you might as well just buy 3 or 4 basic lasers direct from China, then you have lots of spare parts, and you will still be money ahead.

The price of the various components is not going to be that bad for cost. It would be foolish in most cases to send it back, just buy a new one and get on with life. Order the recommended spares with the machine and you should be covered for most things.

The Chinese machines are not as bad as everyone thinks. I am a machinist and a machinery designer. I find that the basic machine is fairly well made, and I doubt there will be any issues with broken parts within the first year. I ordered all the spares, and both of my laser tubes were in good condition. I hooked them both up to test them right off the bat.

My biggest issue with the Chinese machine that I bought was the poor quality or total lack of manuals and information. In addition to that the Lasercut 5.0 software is a bunch of crap as well, so you need to work around those issues. Apart from that, I have had good response to questions and issues from their agent.

Keep in mind, that you get what you pay for in some instances, but paying 3 times the price for the same thing is stupid and a waste of money. The low price that you can purchase these machines for tells you off the start that you should expect to have some issues. I was prepared to take the chance, after doing an exhaustive search for similar machines and comparing prices, features and so on. Maybe I got lucky, but I am happy apart from the issues already mentioned.

As I noted previously, if you want to deal with a US based agent, there now seems to be a better option by going thru Laser Edge. It would worth while to give them a call and talk to them and judge for yourself. Their price is almost 1/3 of what other agents are charging for a similar machines.

Pete


From The Laser's Edge website:
So, you have protection if anything is broken during shipment, but after that you'll still be shipping anything needing repairs back to China... that ain't cheap.

pete, where did you get yourlaser thru and what is there contact details... I often find that the right person at a company can make all the diference to your buying experiance..

Salty, you have two choices now.

You can go to the web site: www.hxlaser.com, and click on the link to send an email to their us agent Frank Fang, who lives in Texas. Frank is good to deal with and he will give you a quote for the machine of your choice.

You can also choose to deal with their newest dealer, Dean, at:

www.the-lasersedge.com/index.html

If you deal through Dean, I think his price for the HX1290SE, which is what i have is listed at $8K US for the 80W unit. You can get this in the 100 or 120Watt as well, but they are more expensive. The large machines like this 1200 x 900 size, can be upgraded later to the more powerful 100 or 120 watt lasers by replacing the laser tube and power supply. If you think you want to do this, then buy the 120W off the start, and save money.

You will pay a bit more from Dean, but not that much when you consider that you will have his support to fall back on to help get the machine started up, sort out software and manual issues and so on. As I mentioned, when I ended up at the end of the day, I had paid about $7000 for the machine, shipping, customs, spare parts, spare laser tube all the options and so on. I havent confirmed with Dean if his price includes all this equipment or not, so send him an email to clarify. Personally I think that dealing with a US based agent is likely worth the extra cost in the end.

Pete.

I finally got my laser running a couple of weeks ago after it sitting their for 4 months. Anyways, i aint going to cry about this nor say negative things about chinese lasers. All I would say is to have your chinese friend next to you to call china cause that will be your best bet (or cnc zone). If you have the money and dont want to bother with Time difference or the distance and needed things done today then get American or build your own. Bottom Line!

Well, It looks like i'm the first person to buy a Laser form "Dingword" and I thought I got a lemon.
It arrived with a CD but no manual or setup instructions. The software is 'Mashidraw' and looked promising once I had it loaded onto my laptop, but
other than the main page, all of the options are in Chinese! WTF??
Anyhow, after reading every post and looking at every link posted, I found enough information to begin my setup.
I think i am in for a steep learning curve getting used to what LOOKS like very
basic software due to the Chinese print.
BUT....after only a few hours of setting up a level surface, arranging a bucket for the purified water, and getting everything grounded, I made my first laser engraving!! It works! I REALLY thought the laser tube would be cracked but it
seems fine. The Laser arrived and was just sitting outside our front door on its side in the cold when i got home Thursday.
It came double boxed with very good insulation, and everything looked intact, which is rare with alot of my E-Bay purchases. I'm building a CNC machine and have ordered enough for a smaller unit to boot which I am going to add the laser onto after i figure everything out about it.
If it keeps working, I think the US$1199.00 plus $150 S/H cost will have been money well spent.
I really can not believe it works!

Shawn in Brampton

Good day all,

I thought I would post here as this site seems to have the most knowledgeable posters for laser engravers.

We are looking for a small laser engraver to make custom rubber stamps. I would very much appreciate any recommendations, especially from the Chinese participants.

Thanx

Where are you located? If you are in the US check out my recent post #771 or #767 or check this web site:

http://www.the-lasersedge.com/index.html
Talk with Dean....

Pete


Good day all,

I thought I would post here as this site seems to have the most knowledgeable posters for laser engravers.

We are looking for a small laser engraver to make custom rubber stamps. I would very much appreciate any recommendations, especially from the Chinese participants.

Thanx

Thanx for the reply. We are located in Canada.

Canam, I just purchased a Chinese Laser Engraver and am going to the factory this weekend. I will post my opinions on the model I bought if interested.
I am also Canadian, so this may be relevant to you or not, let me know.

MSG

Canam, I just purchased a Chinese Laser Engraver and am going to the factory this weekend. I will post my opinions on the model I bought if interested.
I am also Canadian, so this may be relevant to you or not, let me know.

MSG Excellent. I would be very interested in your findings. Do you speak Mandarin?

Well, I'm not sure where my post that i entered Saturday went. Maybe because i post URLs?
Anyhow, I'm not going to type it all out again. In a nutshell, it was not a Factory, more of a shared storage facility and laser sales are on hold until the problems with breakage during shipping are resolved. The good news (if you are local to Toronto) is that he has ONE 40W laser that he will sell, if picked up. I asked about another one sitting on the floor with a few parts removed, and he showed me why it was returned (Cosmetics really) and he would be willing to sell that one for a really good deal!I was shown the ways of getting engraving set up,but he switched the language to Chinese for him to understand the process , leaving me THINKING that I could do the same once home. HA! Not a chance, but I have made a few seals for practice, as the software is designed to make those rubber stamps that have a design, or lettering on them..kinda neat anyway.
Would I buy another one knowing what I do now? Yes. It works well, but I have a steep learning curve ahead of me. I solved the Chinese language problem in the software. I was directed to another website and told to do a download from there, so now i have mostly English. That is going to be what I have to learn, how to interpret broken English directions. I will not post a URL but will say, the business name is Dingword located in Scarborough. Hope this small bit of information is of some help.

MSG

hi everybody,
would you know who offers training for laser engravers (ie900) ink express in south america o United States (washington or miami))
thanks

hi, i have purchased a chinese laser LG900, i have had this laser sitting around no for at least 3 month, it uses lasercut 5.0, but it will not connect to motion board, keeps timing out, would be interested in any info that may be useful in setting up my laser would be appreciated

paul

Hi Paul

Is your machine USB or PCI card base ? Did you installed correct Dog driver and MPC03 card driver ?

Abdul Muqtadir
muqtadirkhan@yahoo.com

hi, i have purchased a chinese laser LG900, i have had this laser sitting around no for at least 3 month, it uses lasercut 5.0, but it will not connect to motion board, keeps timing out, would be interested in any info that may be useful in setting up my laser would be appreciated

paul
Hi there, i have just seen your post now, i have the same software and i battled the first time i used it, when you go to the laser output, there is a box at the bottom which says immediate output, make sure the is not ticked! there is also another quirk, when you cut at 8 or 9 speed the software bombs out.

Hi Paul ,You should read some posts, there are al lot about problems to start these machines.
You should be more specific about your questions, tell us if you have the manual, if you follow the instructions , if you are using usb cable *(sometimes it doesnt work, you have to conect directly to the card). Have you ask to the seller? Are you installling the software from the cd or from the hard disk? Do you have the dog installed? Is the usb conecction working? You have to check everything.

Hey guys, note also that there is a new version of Lasercut being developed, version 5.1 I believe, but I dont know when it will be available.

Note also that another company, http://www.the-lasersedge.com/index.html
is currently working with Solustan to develop a new version of their Link Motion software that will be able to connect and control most of the Chinese lasers. I expect that this software will be a replacement for Lasercut - which we all know is the biggest piece of crap software ever written.

I have been told that this software may be available by Spring of 2008. I dont know what the cost will be, nor do I know much about what capability it may have, but I fully expect it will blow Lasercut out of the market place.

So if you fellows can get your machines working well enough to make it through the next few months, hopefully there is a bright light at the end of the tunnel.

If you installed properly DOG drivers and motion card's drivers there should not be any problem or may be a problem in hardware.

I have few machines from China and after little difficulties they are fine. I am using LASERCUT and COREL programs which comes with Chinese laser machines. Both are good and I think no need extra program but you should know how to use the software.

A. Muqtadir

Hi All, especially Richard Shead.

Just a point that will help: Lasercut 5: the crash when trying to run above 7 and below 10 is caused by an incorrect setting in your 'Machine options' configuration.

Any supplier worth his salt should have been able to tell you the simple fix for this.
Go the the 'File' menu. and under options, select 'Worktable'.
Below the X and Y axis area of the window there is a block containing datum, speed, acceleration etc.
You will notice theat the default 'Start Speed' is set to 10, and probably the 'Const speed' is set to 8. This is the problem. Change the 'Const speed' to 10 and all will be well.
Please don't ask me why the authors programmed these defaults!

Hope this helps.
Best regards.
Neil for CTRfuture Ltd (Laser Sales, Distribution and Support)
www.ctrlasers.co.uk

hi can anyone advise me where i can get a good supply of laser materials at a good price in the uk, i need fast delivery
thanks

paul

Hi Paul,
You don't say what materials you are looking for. We have a range which we are building on. Send me a private message or call the office to discuss. 0844 800 4727
Best regards. Neil (for CTRfuture Ltd) www.ctrlasers.co.uk

People: Recently buy a HX6090SE laser engraver. After some problems with the program (very poorly explained in the manual) was working perfectly. What I challenge is given to the program in its operation. Today I have many designs in autocad (DXF) which work with a CNC ruter. The problem is that when the import those files to the program and I want to make the corresponding prints I get an error message saying that I polyline closed and whenever I recorded the simulation areas and not strokes lines. if I can lend a hand. I apologize with my English because I am using a translator.

Eduardo de Carvalho.
Montevideo. - Uruguay

... I get an error message saying that I polyline closed and whenever I recorded the simulation areas and not strokes lines.

See if the error message goes away if you change from "Engrave" to "Cut"


Engrave works on an enclosed _area_ (not a line) so if you have a polyline area that is 'open' (i.e. the ends dont meet to totally enclose an area) then you can get that error.

What software are you using to drive the laser? Is it 'Lasercut50' ?

those desktop lasers are only good for engraving rubber seals and stamps. You need a decent work table if you want versatility. Check out my site www.syselaser.com. I export anywhere and my prices are very sharp!

those desktop lasers are only good for engraving rubber seals and stamps. You need a decent work table if you want versatility. Check out my site.... I export anywhere and my prices are very sharp!
That is a completely inaccurate statement, considering how many people here use desktop machines to mark metal, granite, wood, paper, plastics, etc.

If you want to push your own products here, fine, but don't make incorrect statements about other company's products just to sell yours.

Entiendo ahora cual es el problema. Entonces los archivos creados con AUTOCAD hay que usar la utilidad de corte con diferentes colores para darle las diferentes potencias. Adjunto dos archivos para mostrar el problema que me ocacionaba. Otra pregunta es: Cuando tengo archivos de corel con colores, hay que convertirlos en blanco y negro? En escala de grises no me funciona.

Gracias

Eduardo

Sorry
Now I understand what the problem is. Then files created with AUTOCAD you use the utility cut with different colors to make the different powers. Deputy two files to show the problem that I ocacionaba. Another question is: When I have files with corel colors, we need to convert them into black and white? In grayscale does not work for me.

Eduardo

I actually sell these desktop lasers too, and the ones I supply (refer to my website) look exactly like the pictures you displayed. If you look in the manufacturer's description they call them Laser for Seal/stamp engraving. That's why they have a clamping fixture inside that will hold 100x200 mm objects. Yes they will engrave other materials, however the lack of decent work area under the lens and the clamping device being in the way, makes it difficult to for anything else, expecially granite. I was sugessting a unit with a 400x600 motorized up/down work table for versatility. I can supply one of these to meet his budget easily and ship it too his door. Also you'll notice the majority of "Desktop" these lasers have a LPT1 (printer) interface, not USD or RJ45, so they do not work unless conneccted to a computer. They are perfect for seal/stamp engraving and do a terriffic job at that or with any object that fits nicely into the clamping device.

That is a completely inaccurate statement, considering how many people here use desktop machines to mark metal, granite, wood, paper, plastics, etc.

If you want to push your own products here, fine, but don't make incorrect statements about other company's products just to sell yours.

They are perfect for seal/stamp engraving and do a terriffic job at that or with any object that fits nicely into the clamping device.
Now this is a more accurate statement, even if it remains very leading. Your prior statement was inflammatory and meant strictly to sell your units over other available options. I think that either speaks to a lack of understanding of the desktop unit's capabilities, or shady sales tactics...

The desktop units are very useful for a wide range of materials, and if you're pushing them to your customers as strictly stamp makers you're doing them a major disservice.

To accuse me of shady tactics, is just un-professional and shows a serious weakness in your charactor. If you are "over-selling" the capabilites of the desktop lasers, then you are misleading buyers and and selling these units as universal lasers when they clearly not, that is dodgy.

Have you actually used one or seen the insides of one or just the pictures you took off a website? Have you ever been to China and visited the factores where these are made? Received any on-hand training with any laser? I would assume the answer is NO to all three questions. I can can say yes to all 3. I have sold these units for other purposes but not before telling people these are primarily designed for engraving seals and stamps. I know the capabilites quite well which is why I recommend cabinet style lasers for multi purpose work that most buyers would appreciate. An engraving area of 100 x 200 x 25mm is very limited to say the least as compared to 400 x 600 x 300 whihc is my smallest cabinet laser. Why would someone buy a desktop laser when they can afford something better? Because it's all you have to offer Mr Auto Electronics guy. At SyS-e Laser Equipment, I offer all laser technologies and models to suit any material or industry in the world. I think you should stick to your auto electronic parts and leave lasers to the experts.


Now this is a more accurate statement, even if it remains very leading. Your prior statement was inflammatory and meant strictly to sell your units over other available options. I think that either speaks to a lack of understanding of the desktop unit's capabilities, or shady sales tactics...

The desktop units are very useful for a wide range of materials, and if you're pushing them to your customers as strictly stamp makers you're doing them a major disservice.

When did Art start selling Mach 3 to China? I see the CNC routers come with Mach 3. Is this a legal copy, or a trial copy?

including I/O interface. This is a special option only. Only 1 Company that I know of (Excitech) does this.

When did Art start selling Mach 3 to China? I see the CNC routers come with Mach 3. Is this a legal copy, or a trial copy?

Hi Sys-e (sounds like sissy-unfortunately)
Just looking over your site and I was wondering what the Cyclops 3D scanner is like. What resolution, files supported etc. How does it compare with the cheap Next 3D engine?
I'm a curious thing.
Rich.

Hi Sys-e
Do you have any more info on the Cyclops Scanner and how it compares to the Next engine 3D scanner. I'm interested but I fear it is out of my price range.

It's suppose to sihnd like that on purpose, glad you got !
the Cyclops ia s 3D Camera and is very high end. This is made in Canada by Inspeck. It comes with Cloud point image software. This is one of the best cameras 3D cameras you can buy. The cost is $14,500 NZD +GST. It will handle resolution to 2500 DPI, and supports all common file formats. This camera is ideally suitied for 3D sub-surface engraving. If you want a 3D scanner for use with CNC check out Excitech's 1212 model 3D scanner with german made Basler cameras and a laser scanner. http://www.syselaser.com/?q=node/111. $20K NZD + GST and shipping. I'm not familiar with Next 3D engine.

Hi Sys-e (sounds like sissy-unfortunately)
Just looking over your site and I was wondering what the Cyclops 3D scanner is like. What resolution, files supported etc. How does it compare with the cheap Next 3D engine?
I'm a curious thing.
Rich.

To accuse me of shady tactics, is just un-professional and shows a serious weakness in your charactor. If you are "over-selling" the capabilites of the desktop lasers, then you are misleading buyers and and selling these units as universal lasers when they clearly not, that is dodgy.

Have you actually used one or seen the insides of one or just the pictures you took off a website? Have you ever been to China and visited the factores where these are made? Received any on-hand training with any laser? I would assume the answer is NO to all three questions. I can can say yes to all 3. I have sold these units for other purposes but not before telling people these are primarily designed for engraving seals and stamps. I know the capabilites quite well which is why I recommend cabinet style lasers for multi purpose work that most buyers would appreciate. An engraving area of 100 x 200 x 25mm is very limited to say the least as compared to 400 x 600 x 300 whihc is my smallest cabinet laser. Why would someone buy a desktop laser when they can afford something better? Because it's all you have to offer Mr Auto Electronics guy. At SyS-e Laser Equipment, I offer all laser technologies and models to suit any material or industry in the world. I think you should stick to your auto electronic parts and leave lasers to the experts.

Ironic how the person telling me I'm "unprofessional" is making character attacks himself, downplaying my abilities by calling me "Mr. Auto Electronics Guy", and making massive assumptions (you know what you do when you assume?) that are all incorrect. I hold a Masters in Electrical Engineering from a top-ten university (ranked 9th in the nation, I believe, when I graduated, and has remained in the top ten for engineering for as long as I can remember, bested only by schools like MIT and Cal-Tech), the auto business is something I do on the side to keep me entertained after I leave my 8-5 as a firmware engineer, and I've worked on and off with lasers in one form or another for going on 25 years (though I only recently purchased an X-Y table I could call my own)... I'd say I've earned my way in this world by now, and challenging your statement is hardly a "weakness in my character", it shows a willingness to challenge schoolyard bullies with an agenda. So far, the only thing you're proving to be an "expert" in is being an arrogant A$$ with a product to pawn and a buck to be made.

You want to sell your products, I'm sure all of us here can appreciate that, but do so with a modicum of respect towards what other offerings are out there. You made a blanket statement that the desktop machines are worthy of nothing more than rubber stamps. If you had spent any real time with the people out there using them in a manufacturing setting you would realize they're most often used for materials other than rubber... etching/cutting of wood, etching metal, etching/cutting acrylics, etching glass, etching granite, and so on. And you say I'm being "dodgy" or "over-selling" their capabilities by listing all of these applications that aren't just potential apps, but actually currently in use with desktop lasers? Kind of sticking our head in the sand like an ostrich now, aren't we?

And why would walking the factory floor in a Chinese manufacturing plant have any bearing on my ability (or yours, for that matter) to talk intelligently about what they can be used for? No, I haven't walked the floor... I haven't walked the floor at Ford's or Honda's engine manufacturing plant, but I can tear down one of their engines, rebuild it, and make it faster (as I've done with my own vehicle). But I'm not so arrogant as to call myself an engine "expert", either.

The number of people actually using desktop systems to cut rubber stamps is so small, I would think the machines should be pushed towards use of any of the items I listed above EXCEPT rubber. The smallest Chinese machines you can buy on eBay are roughly 9"x9" in table size, plenty large enough to cut some decent-sized granite plaques, same with the US-made Versalaser.

I could understand that kind of blanket statement coming from someone who had never used a laser before, someone who didn't know what they were actually capable of. But you're supposedly one of the "experts" here, you should know better. IF you don't recognize these machines are used everyday for things NOT made of rubber, you don't understand your market at all. I could forgive a momentary lapse in judgment by someone who was simply using the lasers, but you're here to make a buck. If you tell the customer the truth, that these smaller machines are more than capable of cutting more than rubber, you might lose out on sales for the larger machines... and that is shady, at best. It's used car salesman tactics and they have no place in a community where we're trying to help everyone, particularly the new people.

And to answer your questions as to why someone would buy a desktop unit when they can afford something better... maybe they can't afford something better (by "better", I believe you mean "larger", as in one of your units). Not all of us need a large table, even if it is a good deal for a few thousand more. By your own admission, you tell your customers the smaller machines are not usable for more than rubber and they need something bigger... sounds like you really don't care what the customer truly needs, you're going to convince them they need something larger (and more profitable) by any means necessary.

Even if you don't outright lie, holding back the whole truth from the customer (such as what these machines are used for everyday by others, not just waht you think they are used for) is the same as a lie... and I call that shady business tactics. Don't think you can use your bully tactics with me, I'll dish it out just as fast. I'm happy to have an intelligent and thought-provoking discussion on any subject of interest, but I call a kettle black when it looks black.

You think this is helping anyone or just trying to over-justify yourself? I would like to see some photos, as others here would I'm sure, of what you say people you have sold these mini-lasers are using them for.

Ironic how the person telling me I'm "unprofessional" is making character attacks himself, downplaying my abilities by calling me "Mr. Auto Electronics Guy", and making massive assumptions (you know what you do when you assume?) that are all incorrect. I hold a Masters in Electrical Engineering from a top-ten university (ranked 9th in the nation, I believe, when I graduated, and has remained in the top ten for engineering for as long as I can remember, bested only by schools like MIT and Cal-Tech), the auto business is something I do on the side to keep me entertained after I leave my 8-5 as a firmware engineer, and I've worked on and off with lasers in one form or another for going on 25 years (though I only recently purchased an X-Y table I could call my own)... I'd say I've earned my way in this world by now, and challenging your statement is hardly a "weakness in my character", it shows a willingness to challenge schoolyard bullies with an agenda. So far, the only thing you're proving to be an "expert" in is being an arrogant A$$ with a product to pawn and a buck to be made.

You want to sell your products, I'm sure all of us here can appreciate that, but do so with a modicum of respect towards what other offerings are out there. You made a blanket statement that the desktop machines are worthy of nothing more than rubber stamps. If you had spent any real time with the people out there using them in a manufacturing setting you would realize they're most often used for materials other than rubber... etching/cutting of wood, etching metal, etching/cutting acrylics, etching glass, etching granite, and so on. And you say I'm being "dodgy" or "over-selling" their capabilities by listing all of these applications that aren't just potential apps, but actually currently in use with desktop lasers? Kind of sticking our head in the sand like an ostrich now, aren't we?

And why would walking the factory floor in a Chinese manufacturing plant have any bearing on my ability (or yours, for that matter) to talk intelligently about what they can be used for? No, I haven't walked the floor... I haven't walked the floor at Ford's or Honda's engine manufacturing plant, but I can tear down one of their engines, rebuild it, and make it faster (as I've done with my own vehicle). But I'm not so arrogant as to call myself an engine "expert", either.

The number of people actually using desktop systems to cut rubber stamps is so small, I would think the machines should be pushed towards use of any of the items I listed above EXCEPT rubber. The smallest Chinese machines you can buy on eBay are roughly 9"x9" in table size, plenty large enough to cut some decent-sized granite plaques, same with the US-made Versalaser.

I could understand that kind of blanket statement coming from someone who had never used a laser before, someone who didn't know what they were actually capable of. But you're supposedly one of the "experts" here, you should know better. IF you don't recognize these machines are used everyday for things NOT made of rubber, you don't understand your market at all. I could forgive a momentary lapse in judgment by someone who was simply using the lasers, but you're here to make a buck. If you tell the customer the truth, that these smaller machines are more than capable of cutting more than rubber, you might lose out on sales for the larger machines... and that is shady, at best. It's used car salesman tactics and they have no place in a community where we're trying to help everyone, particularly the new people.

And to answer your questions as to why someone would buy a desktop unit when they can afford something better... maybe they can't afford something better (by "better", I believe you mean "larger", as in one of your units). Not all of us need a large table, even if it is a good deal for a few thousand more. By your own admission, you tell your customers the smaller machines are not usable for more than rubber and they need something bigger... sounds like you really don't care what the customer truly needs, you're going to convince them they need something larger (and more profitable) by any means necessary.

Even if you don't outright lie, holding back the whole truth from the customer (such as what these machines are used for everyday by others, not just waht you think they are used for) is the same as a lie... and I call that shady business tactics. Don't think you can use your bully tactics with me, I'll dish it out just as fast. I'm happy to have an intelligent and thought-provoking discussion on any subject of interest, but I call a kettle black when it looks black.

You think this is helping anyone or just trying to over-justify yourself? I would like to see some photos, as others here would I'm sure, of what you say people you have sold these mini-lasers are using them for.
If it prevents someone from making a mis-informed decision, then it has helped, and that's what we're all trying to do. I hardly have to justify myself to you, but since you felt the need to sling credentials out there (if walking a manufacturing floor could be considered a credential), I felt it was appropriate to let everyone know I wasn't some snot-nose kid pulling answers from a place the sun doesn't shine.

If you want proof of what people are doing with them, try checking out Saw Mill Creek... those kids are doing things and coming up with new ideas that impress me on a weekly basis. From wedding invitations delicately cut out of paper stock to acrylic awards to etched-granite photographs to metal plaques. Tables range in size from 9"x9" to 8'x12', with laser powers from 13W to multi-kw. One guy has an awesome set of pics of a toothpick he engraved... a freakin' toothpick!

Now that we both know where each other stands, maybe we can let this one die? We've both said our peace, shared our fill of smarmy comments towards each other, and gotten it off of our chests. The info is out there now, it's up to the potential customers to decide, no?

(BTW, I'm not selling lasers or tables... I'm merely a user.)

i Also own one of those cheap small lasers
sold as a "Proffesional Engraving and cutting machine"
it was sold by a guy called chinacut on ebay.

transport was ok and item received in one piece.
the rest was dramatic to say the least.
the whole thing would just not work, the mechanics where fine.
but the laser electronics would not work
after several tips form my suplier like:

"rotate button"
"switch on laser button"

i guess it was time , to convice him a bit by making
a dispute claim at paypal ...
now that put the wheels in motion!.
after one week i got 3 new boards and some other small stuff.
after i spoken with moschi about his side of the board.
i was suggested to exchange all the buffers also on the moschi board.
anyway after exchaning ALL the boards.
it worked!
after i burned my finger , because of the factory alignment of the mirrors
i soon got that fixed also.
offcourse 0 protection on anything..

now i soon found out to just use it in plt mode worked ok
sometime it goes nuts , but mostly it will do all plt files.
i could do anything i wanted.

BUT i can not set the laser to higher or lower setting
even with the rotating button i can not set the power low or high.
there are 2 potentional parts found on the HF board
they do have something to do with the power setting
i can rotate them so power goes up or down
i exchanged also all those ic,s but still no succes

so now i just do engraving on anodised stuff.
anyone has a idea why it will not "listen"to the rotating button or the software output setting?.

I have one little problem, when send cut one circle the machinne cut but no one circle. The left and right circle is ok but the up and down make one little line.
i not sure if the problem is the software parameters or the machinne pantograph.

The engraving is all OK, circle square etc the problem is when cutting vector

The program for RS3040 is Easycut 2.0
The parameters are

HPGL Resolution 1016 DPI

Machinne Resolutions

X 1000 DPI
Y 2000 DPI

Please help me with this i not have another program for work with machinne.

Thanks fo all!!!!!

your problem is the x and y dpi
they need to be the same... both 1000 to get a 1 to 1
then you have a round circle..

Hi

I would like to know what watt. of the laser is suitable to cut 15mm Acrylic in one pass (80, 100 or ??). I need openion from the experienced gentlemen I will appreciate them.

Best regards.

A. Muqtadir

What speed do your require?

Whith 60W machine.... speed 1 power 90%

Dear MacGyer and edecalho

Thanks for the kind suggestions. I have 50 watt Chinese laser but according to the length of the tube (80 cm) it looks 32-38 watt. It can cut only 6 mm with two passes.
Now i would like to buy new machine with 80, 100 or 150 watt. to cut 15 mm by one pass from 50 to 25 speed if possible.

So, what Watt is ideal for 15mm at moderate speed or little slow.

Kind Regards.

More Speed = more power = more U$S

Please check with the manufacturer or supplier to see if they can cover your expectations

mug, I see you're in Saudi Arabia, so I can't tell you what shipping is going to be like, but here in the US the shipping charges for a 100W tube increase significantly over an 80W tube due to the extra length. I imagine you have something in the 40W range now, so an 80W would be a nice jump for a reasonable price.

To cut 15mm with a chinese glass tube of 80 watts will be 1 o 2mm at 90% of power. If you have a RF laser of 80 watts that will be 8- 10 maybe. I have seen a 55w rf from coherent cutting 15mm at 2-3

RF or Chinese should not matter... what matters is the actual output of the tube. RF tubes are often underrated, while the Chinese tubes are often overrated. If you normalize powers with a meter, they will both cut at the same speed for a given power.

mac, Thanks for your nice experienced comments. I think 80 watt is pretty good.
Thanks to everyone too.

I had an application and I was leaning towards a laser cutter. Just wondering what you people think may work for this..
This is an inquiry for making a custom
rubber/plastic/metal holder.

This would be a Circular piece of rubber/metal/plastic (diameter 57mm). In the Center
it has a rectangular cutout, that is approx. 35.5mm x 24 mm. The thickness of the rubber/metal/plastic should be about 2.5mm.

Essentially I was going to buy a strip of 2.5mm thick rubber/metal/plastic and make
cuts to end up with my final piece.

So there are 2 sets of cuts - 1 to cut a circular piece from a sheet. 2 to cut a center rectangular piece.

The rubber/metal/plastic thickness is not much, and I am only looking at a 100 pcs a
month, so its a low volume, low strength application.

I was thinking that rubber or plastic could be cut by the 40W low-end lasers. Would love to hear your recommendations .

Yes, a 40W should have no issues with that thickness. That said, even a Chinese laser may be an expensive option for such a small volume, not to mention the smell. Since the tubes often won't last but a year or two, you'll have to consider replacement and upkeep value.

The cut seems quite simple... have you considered a physical cut? A rolling pin about 20mm in diameter with the proper blades installed could take a roll of rubber matting and chop out all 100 in about 5-10 minutes.

a 40 watt Seal Engraver like the XJ-40 listed on my website was primarily made to cut and engrave rubber seals and stamps. The XJ-40 has an internal holding mechanism the size you need already built in. You could do 100 pieces in a day.

An RF unit, power wise is more intense at the same wattage because the final beam is concentrated to a smaller width, its also higher freqency. The real differance is price and maintenace. An RF unit tube will last 10 times longer than a Glass Tube Co2 and the cost of an RF unit is about 3-5 times the price of a chinese made Co2 unit.

It really comes down to purpose and budget. If you need any help getting a unit into Saudi at a good price contact me through mywebsite and I'll give you a quote including shipping to your nearest port.

I was considering a physical cut too. But I have no idea where to buy the die cutter or the rolling pin for this type of work..

Most of the companies I called seemed to make stuff for industry - nothing for a single piece..I guess I need a custom round cut and a custom rectangular cut..

Any suggestions for the rolling pin ??

Yes, a 40W should have no issues with that thickness. That said, even a Chinese laser may be an expensive option for such a small volume, not to mention the smell. Since the tubes often won't last but a year or two, you'll have to consider replacement and upkeep value.

The cut seems quite simple... have you considered a physical cut? A rolling pin about 20mm in diameter with the proper blades installed could take a roll of rubber matting and chop out all 100 in about 5-10 minutes.

Thanks for that. I am going to try get a manual tool - failing which I will go for laser.
You can also cut acrylic - which is interesting..

a 40 watt Seal Engraver like the XJ-40 listed on my website was primarily made to cut and engrave rubber seals and stamps. The XJ-40 has an internal holding mechanism the size you need already built in. You could do 100 pieces in a day. Check out http://www.syselaser.com/?q=node/139. I sell this into Australia for $750 USD plus shipping, customs and GST. It comes with a spare laser tube.

zcream,

you dont need a rolling pin design, just use a flat plate with the die cutter imbeded in the plate. From there you only need an inexpensive hydraulic press to cut the parts. It is likely cheaper to get a flat plate made. There are lots of companies that will do that for a one-off project. This is the method used for cutting paper and cardboard for making/folding boxes.

Trying to wrap cutters around a circular object is complicated as you have to compensate for the curvature, flat is easy and much cheaper.

Pete

I can visualize that.. What kind of places would make this ? A machine shop ? Or a toolmaker ?
zcream,

you dont need a rolling pin design, just use a flat plate with the die cutter imbeded in the plate. From there you only need an inexpensive hydraulic press to cut the parts. It is likely cheaper to get a flat plate made. There are lots of companies that will do that for a one-off project. This is the method used for cutting paper and cardboard for making/folding boxes.

Trying to wrap cutters around a circular object is complicated as you have to compensate for the curvature, flat is easy and much cheaper.

Pete

zcream:

You will have to check out places that offer die cutting services such as companies that make gaskets, boxes, and such. You might check your local phone book yellow pages for 'die cutting' or maybe just do a google search if you cant find someone locally. If you pattern is not too complicated, you might expect to pay something like $100 or so, but a stamping die like that will cut hundreds of parts in a reasonable time. If you are looking to cut thousands, then this may not be the most economical way, in which case laser cutting may be better, but that depends again on the material, as some materials do not cut well with a CO2 laser, you would have to test the material before committing to laser work.

You might be able to cut them with a small arbor press depending on the size of the part and the material used. The blade they use is pretty much just a strip of heat treated steel maybe about 1/2" wide and about .025" thick (like a bi-metal band saw blade). They sharpen one side and press the blunt side into a groove in a piece of wood or metal or plastic (depends on what you are doing) to create the shape.

You could also get these companies to stamp the parts out for you as well most likely which might save you the problem of having a press to do it.

Hope this helps.

Pete :wave:

Get yourself a small laser cutter from a reliable laser supplier and be done with it!

I find it humourous that some previously advocated a laser for this who now supports an old method or rolling or stamping parts with knife machine which has got to be the oldest technology around.

Sys-e:

You are so intent on sellng someone a machine, that you are not looking at the economics of the situation. If this person is looking for the ability to make a multitude of different parts, then perhaps a laser might be the answer. However a 40W CO2 laser (not and RF unit) is not going to have a really high cutting speed on some materials, so it may take a few minutes to cut out this small single part.

On the other hand a small manual arbor press (if it has enough power) will cut the parts out in one pass with one press in seconds. He could make several parts in the time it takes to cut one part with the laser. If he had to purchase the tooling, an arbor press for about $150 and a die for maybe $100 is much cheaper and much faster than a laser, regardless of the cost of the laser.

I cant see that a laser for $750 is going to be a high quality unit. I have a Chinese 80W laser that I paid $3500 for and I have seen the quality of this unit, the quality of workmanship, the crappy software etc, so believe me - you get what you pay for on a cheap laser. So to pay $750 for a CO2 laser, makes me really gun shy. My replacement laser tube costs about 1/2 the price of that, which is cheap (from China) or the same as that from a US supplier, which is still reasonable.

I know the cutting speed of my 80W unit, and I could not cut parts as fast on the laser as I could by hand, especially as they get more complicated, the cutting time increases substantially. Yes a laser is hands off and you could nest many parts and go away for a while and do something else, but it is all a matter of economics. If he needed to do some engraving on it at the same time, then we have a different situation, and then a laser might make sense, but in this case he is talking merely about cutting the parts out.

He would be foolish to pay even that much for a laser to do a single task, but as I mentioned, if we wants to make various parts, then some type of laser may be worthwhile, but I would advise him strongly to check out the machinery before he buys. Like I say, most times you get what you pay for.

Pete

The costs associated for your view is for one part, imagine having to repeat that cost for each part, then it quiickly becomes uneconomical, this is one of the reasons laser technology is now used.

Just because you had a bad buying experience for whatever reason doesn't mean everyone will, so its unfair to put down Chinese technology as not all of it is bad quality, there is wher I come in having visited these factories, and trade shows. Your laser must be very slow. My 50 watts will cut out a full A3 sheet of gaskets 5mm thick in 2 minutes flat. My units also accept files directly from Adobe and Corel draw.

Don't make such a personal issue out of it, I'm only trying to help, but you feel you have to get personal and insult me and the Chinese to get your point across holds no credentials for anyone

Get yourself a small laser cutter from a reliable laser supplier and be done with it!

I find it humourous that some previously advocated a laser for this who now supports an old method or rolling or stamping parts with knife machine which has got to be the oldest technology around.
The costs associated for your view is for one part, imagine having to repeat that cost for each part, then it quiickly becomes uneconomical, this is one of the reasons laser technology is now used.

Just because you had a bad buying experience for whatever reason doesn't mean everyone will, so its unfair to put down Chinese technology as not all of it is bad quality, there is wher I come in having visited these factories, and trade shows. Your laser must be very slow. My 50 watts will cut out a full A3 sheet of gaskets 5mm thick in 2 minutes flat. My units also accept files directly from Adobe and Corel draw.

Don't make such a personal issue out of it, I'm only trying to help, but you feel you have to get personal and insult me and the Chinese to get your point across holds no credentials for anyone
Sys-e, your last title is so ironic... "I AM IN THE BUSINESS OF HELPING PEOPLE"... No, you're in the business of selling something, and the stench of what you're selling is starting to stink up these forums. You are so intent on selling machines under the guise of useful advice, you completely fail to pay attention to what the customer wants or the economics of what you suggest. You have continually chosen to push the high-cost solution to everything... lasers when they may not be necessary or warranted, bigger lasers when a small one will do, and on and on. You're not even a good salesman as they at least suggest appropriate solutions to their customers, even if it means loss of a sale. Nothing makes a customer more unhappy than learning they overpaid for a solution, and you're eager and willing to help them learn that lesson.

Contrary to your belief, nowhere in this thread did I advocate a laser for zcream's issue. I answered his question on whether or not it would work, but as someone who is truly here to help (not sell sell sell), I suggested a possible alternative to a laser which might prove cheaper and easier in the short and long term. I believed his material was on a continuous roll, therefore the suggested rolling pin stamp. Pete realized the rubber may be in sheet form and properly suggested a standard arbor press stamp. As both Pete and I mentioned (and you amazingly fail to see), zcream's needs may be met more economically and with greater speed using something other than a laser if his design is simple and there will be no need to do much else with the design down the road. But you didn't care about that, you saw a potential sale, because you're a salesman. Unlike you, we are considering the cost per part, and the speed with which one could be made with a simple press, making our suggestion of a press possibly more economical...zcream will have to fill us in on some more details first. But you like to ignore those little details, don't you, because they mean a sale at any cost.

I didn't have a bad buying experience with a Chinese laser as you suggest Pete did, and yet I'm still not recommending it for this job without more details. You claim " my 50 watts will cut out a full A3 sheet of gaskets 5mm thick in 2 minutes flat"... so? What if an arbor press can do the same but in 5 seconds for 1/10th the cost? Still sound like a laser is a good deal?

No where in Pete's post did I see him getting personal (I'll take that credit, as someone needs to keep you off of your high horse), and he certainly wasn't bashing Chinese machines. He did, however, bring up some possible issues with going to a laser, such as cost and speed... yet again, issues you want to gloss over because why? Yep, you guessed it, you make a sale!

Personally, I think you should peddle your wares someplace else, because you certainly have no interest in "helping people", unless you mean helping them clean out their bank account.

Let's keep this civil in here, as I'd hate to have to read 800+ posts to see which need to be edited or deleted.. ;)

This thread is getting way off topic but for mine I am with Pete and would go for the strip knife cutter. For the amount you want per month I just can't see the benefit of a laser cutter UNLESS you can come up with alternate jobs for one.
Check out the Sizzix die cutters for scrap booking as they may have a die close to what you want. There are hundreds of them available for a few dollars each and you could fabricate a die stamp press machine relatively easily for one with a cam action. I'm not sure if they could cut much more than 2.5mm thick though.
Check Ebay for them to get an idea and see what's out there.
Lets all be civil here and get back to what this site is intended for. I for one don't want to read defamatory comments. We all have an opinion and if it's not helping others then PM the person you have the issue with but please don't let it clog up an already extreeeeamely LONG thread. I feel sorry for the new guy that has to read all of them :-)
You guys a very knowledgeable in your own aspects so lets all have a group hug and get back to what we do best. Help people.
Rich.

This place http://www.psdcdies.com/ makes cutting dies to be used in a hydraulic or a mechanical press. I use these dies and a hydraulic cutting press (which is called a "clicker") and my machine operators cut 10,000 pieces per machine per day. When you want to cut a different part it is as easy as picking up a different cutting die. A laser would NEVER be able to achieve these cutting rates on their best days.

This place http://www.psdcdies.com/ makes cutting dies to be used in a hydraulic or a mechanical press.
Bookmarked... thanks!

hi friends this machines of chinaare a ****!!!!!!!!!!! i have one wklaser and dont fucntion six monts ago, and the quality of engraver is very extrange, dont buy this machines are many problems with the installation and the support is a ****.....

Fercho, what do you need , maybe we can help.

Hello Community,this is my first time that post this message,and I have a question, How can I Pattent a product.
And I would like to have information about the low cost Laser Engraver.
Thanks
Raul Gomez

Hello Community,this is my first time that post this message,and I have a question, How can I Pattent a product.
And I would like to have information about the low cost Laser Engraver.
Thanks
Raul Gomez
Your first question is not appropriate to this forum, as well as having an extremely long-winded explanation.

Your second question is too vague to have an appropriate answer. There is a ton of useful information here, all you have to do is use the search function. Otherwise, you'll have to ask more specific questions.

Hello, you could try on www.hflaser.com, their M500 is one of the best machines personaly i have setup over 12 units in mexico with no problem, also you might want to check www.ams-laser.com they have nice print driver units controlled by LPT port, starting at 5,000usd.

hi friends this machines of chinaare a ****!!!!!!!!!!! i have one wklaser and dont fucntion six monts ago, and the quality of engraver is very extrange, dont buy this machines are many problems with the installation and the support is a ****.....

Hello,
im verry sorry that it tunred out wrong for you, i have in several times offered free e-mail tech support to redsail customers and also free help to non redsail customers, i highly recommend the M500 machine from redsail and i will stand behind my recommendation by offerinf free tech support by e-mail to any one who purchases such machine, i will be happy to assist you in getting your machine back to working order if you can please provide more detail on the problem you have.

regards

Eduardo
j.eduardo.enriquez@gmail.com

Hi

Any body have an idea to engrave Crystal by Laser. I would like to know what are the parameters (speed, laser power to engrave and what is recommended laser machine in watt 40, 50, 60.).

I will appreciate for the help.

Regards.

40, 50 or 60W it´s possible to engrave. I have 60w machine and use, speed 600, power 40%

Dear edecalho

Thanks. I purchase 50 watt machine from China. But its laser tube size is 80 cm. I went so many sites and found this 80 cm long is from 30-38 watt. I am using with this machine 100% power and 10 speed but there is no good quality engraving. The chips don't remove from engraved area.
My probelm is chips not removing. Any comments and help PLEASE.

Who is the manufacturer of your machine?
What is the model?
I can find out. I have contacts in china manufacturers

try not to use the machine at 100% power, you are going to finish your laser so soon.
The proportion is 50 watts per metr. I engraved on crystal wit h a 60% laser. be careful with the crystal dust.

Dear edecalho Lamicron

Thanks for both of you.

If I use 60% laser and 20 speed it does engrave but the chips sticks in the engraved area remain. If this can be removed than no problem. I discuss with manufacturer they advise up to few months to change this parameters and I changed according to their suggestions but no success. Machine model is DC-G350 (50cm x 30 cm).

Sorry, I meant 60 Watts laser at 90% power and don´t remember the speed , but sure the chips stay on the surface , I used a metal blade to clean it.

Lamicorn

It means I must have 60 watts laser and what is the recommended speed for this machine. Can you cut Acrylic 20mm in one pass with this 60 watts or need 80 watts ?

Dear Sir ,I amCivil Engineer,
I am new in this filed ,I can arrange frame and Motors ,
but I do have the electonic parts and software.
can help me to get the softwares and panels.
also please tell me what I need more than the mentioned parts.
BEst regards
Haval A.Sadiq
please send emails to me in haval@engoff.com

muqtadir, I really dont think you can cut 20mm in one pass with 80 watts, don´t know if anyone in the forum have done that,. I have seen , 80 watts cutting 12-14 mm in one pass , very slow 4mm/sec.

Hi
i am frensh speaking,so sorry for...I have a new rabbit 3040.I used emergency button,because a programming mistake.After that,no response of laser test,the needle of laser power dont move and no laser ray.the fuse is correct,the dolly move normally ,fun and water pump are also good. So,i need help. THANKS

Jedermi

You should push this emergency button again or move left or right. It should be on in either ways. I had the same problem iwth 60 X 50 cm machine. Play with emergency button or check with multimeter that there is continuity or not.

Jedermi

You should push this emergency button again or move left or right. It should be on in either ways. I had the same problem iwth 60 X 50 cm machine. Play with emergency button or check with multimeter that there is continuity or not.

Thank you very match for your help.It is good now.

Hi,
I am looking for help with a Redsail m900 laser . I bought it 7 months ago, arrived in one piece , good looking machine. unfortunately not with the specified operating system, spent US$750 on new board etc and now it moves, no working e stops though. the laser is 60 watt but struggles through 6mm burning its way rather than cutting, also cuts at an angle on 1 axis.
A friend also bought exactly the same machine with the same problems.
I also have a Universal laser M360 which is a joy to use and a good yardstick as to how poor the Redsail is performing.
Can I use other optics from a reputable supplier ?

Hi,
I am looking for help with a Redsail m900 laser . I bought it 7 months ago, arrived in one piece , good looking machine. unfortunately not with the specified operating system, spent US$750 on new board etc and now it moves, no working e stops though. the laser is 60 watt but struggles through 6mm burning its way rather than cutting, also cuts at an angle on 1 axis.
A friend also bought exactly the same machine with the same problems.
I also have a Universal laser M360 which is a joy to use and a good yardstick as to how poor the Redsail is performing.
Can I use other optics from a reputable supplier ?

Mirror alignment can cause a lot of problems and may be the cause of the angle problem. You need to check the alignment carefully.
On the burning, get some decent air pressure for the air assist. 10 to 20 psi. The little compressor they supply is useless.
Paul.

Mirror alignment can cause a lot of problems and may be the cause of the angle problem. You need to check the alignment carefully.
On the burning, get some decent air pressure for the air assist. 10 to 20 psi. The little compressor they supply is useless.
Paul.

Hey thanks, I think its a little more than alignment but I will hook up a better air supply and give it a shot, fingers crossed. Cheers

Hey thanks, I think its a little more than alignment but I will hook up a better air supply and give it a shot, fingers crossed. Cheers

My bet is the mirror alignment. If the unfocused beam hits the lens off centre the beam will still hit the focal point but away from the focal point it will be angled. Where abouts in Wellington are you? I'm in Upper Hutt.
Paul

My bet is the mirror alignment. If the unfocused beam hits the lens off centre the beam will still hit the focal point but away from the focal point it will be angled. Where abouts in Wellington are you? I'm in Upper Hutt.
Paul

I am in Miramar, our phone is 3808218 Human Dynamo Modelmaking Ltd.
I would appreciate a call.

Hi,
I am looking for help with a Redsail m900 laser . I bought it 7 months ago, arrived in one piece , good looking machine. unfortunately not with the specified operating system, spent US$750 on new board etc and now it moves, no working e stops though. the laser is 60 watt but struggles through 6mm burning its way rather than cutting, also cuts at an angle on 1 axis.
A friend also bought exactly the same machine with the same problems.
I also have a Universal laser M360 which is a joy to use and a good yardstick as to how poor the Redsail is performing.
Can I use other optics from a reputable supplier ?
First, please check if the laser head was screw down
Second, check if the lens or reflecting mirror getting scratched or dirty
If the problem can not be solved yet, I can send you a vedio for beam adjusting
JENNY

Lamicorn

It means I must have 60 watts laser and what is the recommended speed for this machine. Can you cut Acrylic 20mm in one pass with this 60 watts or need 80 watts ?

Our machine can do it. No doubt.

Anyway,the speed is slowly

First, please check if the laser head was screw down
Second, check if the lens or reflecting mirror getting scratched or dirty
If the problem can not be solved yet, I can send you a vedio for beam adjusting
JENNY
Hi Jenny, thanks for the advice, it is very difficult to micro adjust the mirrors
with the existing mounts. I think our next step is to replace the mirror mounts
and also to use a double lens to concentrate the beam further to something like .1mm. I have a friend with the same machine and also the 900 x 1200
who has imported lens and mirrors with micro adjustable mounts from Israel.
He is currently converting his machines and if successful will do mine also.

Has anyone figured out how to use the MoshiDraw software?
I purchased a Chinese 40W Laser off of EBay last year, and spend a couple of hours now and then trying to engrave an 8" square. The Laser is sold to make
small ink stamps, so it may be that it will not be able to engrave any larger projects.
I bid on Link Motion Software on EBay, but the auction was cancelled by EBay because the seller was using copied Dongles. I'm glad that I didn't get stuck with that purchase!!
I am thinking of either selling the Laser, or trying to set it up running Mach3.
Only problem I see, is that Mach3 will not be able to control the Laser beams power output, and may only be good for some light duty cutting. Better than having a Laser just sitting here collecting dust I guess. I had contacted Redsail (I think) to see if their Software would run my Laser but they said it would be to complicated to do, or something along those lines.
Any how, back to my original question,
Has anyone figured out this Moshidraw Software?

What did the Chinese laser cost you, roughly?

I am in Canada so the price I paid will most certainly be different than what you will pay. I think the laser itself was $1299 and $250 S/H and then the taxes on top of that.

I am getting good results now after trying many, MANY different combinations of
software and setups.

Let us know what you decide to get, and how it works out for you.

Can anyone tell me the difference between Mitsubishi and the Trumpf Laser machines.I'm looking at the 3,500KW , 4,000 KW and the 5,000KW.
Mitsubishi keeps touting their resonator being the least likely to fail due to no glass tubes and all metal construction, while Trumpf just accepts the fact that the resonator is a consumable item and offers deals on replacements at the time of purchase of a new Laser.

3500kW is 3.5MW.... I'm assuming you meant 3.5kW or 3500W...

I'm not overly familiar with industrial-sized laser systems, but I (personally) wouldn't feel comfortable using a glass tube for such extreme power (do they even MAKE glass tubes at those power levels?). Cooling would be a ***** and a half, the flow rate would be tremendous due to the low transmissive level of heat from tube edge to coolant. Imagine springing a leak in that!

If you get the price down to $3K, count me in...

Hi friends

I bought new chinese laser machine from artsign(jinan)
I think its a rebbite laser machine.machine is not work.when i on machine just LCD display is on other all function is not stsart.like updown platform.laser source.laser mooving system all are not working.i hope some one here from rebbit laser compny from china.who can halp me to solve my problem.I dont mind to pay them.

I hope some one here for halp me

Dinnox creation(uk)
dinesh

Hi friends

I bought new chinese laser machine from artsign(jinan)
I think its a rebbite laser machine.machine is not work.when i on machine just LCD display is on other all function is not stsart.like updown platform.laser source.laser mooving system all are not working.i hope some one here from rebbit laser compny from china.who can halp me to solve my problem.I dont mind to pay them.

I hope some one here for halp me

Dinnox creation(uk)
dinesh


I would unplug the machine and check all of the electrical connections to make sure they were all tight, no loose wires. Then plug it in and turn it on and see if the power supply fan is turning. If not, the power supply is probably bad. Also see if there are any fuses anyplace that you can check.

This is all basic trouble shooting stuff and you have probably done all this already. That's about all the help that I can be. Let us know how you make out.

Skip

I have a friend with the same machine and also the 900 x 1200
who has imported lens and mirrors with micro adjustable mounts from Israel.

Any chance of a URL for that Israeli company, pretty please? :rainfro:


Bob

Can anyone give their opinion about Seron LS 40 desktop laser engraver ???

I have an Omninsign plus laser and bought it 1 1/2 years ago and still can not get it to run off the computer.
I just received an email from Leetro the maker of the control board in the laser. This is a copy of there email.
From:
"tech" <tech@leetro.com>View contact details
To:
"jrnab1946@yahoo.com" <jrnab1946@yahoo.com>

Hello Jim,
If without Lasercut software, you can't use the machine.
I saw your board version is V 2.3.3.0. It can use Lasercut4.0 only. Lasercut5.0 is not applicable for this version of board.
Please contact your machine supplier for the control software,for it's inclusive in the control board kit.
Regards
Zhao Jie

When I bought the laser it was suppose to have a mpc05 which would use the lasercut5.0 . Now I have to get lasercut 4.0 and I still don't know if I need a PCI card for my computer. The Company I bought it from keeps telling me I don't need it. But they told me a lot of things that wasen't true.
If you are having trouble with your lasercut and computer not seeing it check out version numbers to make sure they are the right ones.
Good luck and happy lasering.
Jim

LinkMotion for Leetro MPC6515 controller
If you are using Laser Cut, there is a good chance you might be using Leetro 6515 controller.

We are looking into MPC05 card. Apparently, it is a PCI card. LinkMotion may work with that card too.

We just implemented LinkMotion to work with Leetro controller. Our introductory price is only $399 plus shipping.

Check your model number of the controller. We offer support and complete manual for you to configure the system proeprly.

Let us know if we can help.

Dhiren Shah
Solustan, Inc.
www.Solustan.com
www.LinkMotion.com

Has anyone figured out how to use the MoshiDraw software?
I purchased a Chinese 40W Laser off of EBay last year, and spend a couple of hours now and then trying to engrave an 8" square. The Laser is sold to make
small ink stamps, so it may be that it will not be able to engrave any larger projects.
I bid on Link Motion Software on EBay, but the auction was cancelled by EBay because the seller was using copied Dongles. I'm glad that I didn't get stuck with that purchase!!
I am thinking of either selling the Laser, or trying to set it up running Mach3.
Only problem I see, is that Mach3 will not be able to control the Laser beams power output, and may only be good for some light duty cutting. Better than having a Laser just sitting here collecting dust I guess. I had contacted Redsail (I think) to see if their Software would run my Laser but they said it would be to complicated to do, or something along those lines.
Any how, back to my original question,
Has anyone figured out this Moshidraw Software?
hi, dear friend. pls let me know your msn, thanks. and i will try to help you. i am from cnc routers and laser machines factory. we manufacture such machines.
my msn: oliver9866@hotmail.com
Email: oliver9866@gmail.com

Does laser engraving comes in Kit form also? This is only to reduce the transportation cost

Does laser engraving comes in Kit form also? This is only to reduce the transportation cost

hi, dear sanjiv, yes, the laser machines will go in kit form. we will try to reduce the transport freight. do not worry about that. for more information, please email me in time. waiting your quick reply. thanks. my msn: oliver9866@hotmail.com
Email: oliver9866@gmail.com

HELLO FROM GREECE
I WANT TO BUY ONE LASER MACHINE CUT & ENGRAVE FROM CHINA WITH BEST QUALITY.
DOES ANYBODY KNOW SOME COMPANIES?

...LASER MACHINE CUT & ENGRAVE FROM CHINA ...DOES ANYBODY KNOW SOME COMPANIES?

Please don't SHOUT at us! (chair)

There are lots of Chinese companies that make lasers - most of the products look identical as they seem to copy from each other. :argue:

I bought mine from:http://www.xyz-tech.com/ (http://www.xyz-tech.com/listcp.asp?big=24&small=25&proid=122) via a New Zealand agent, who has now wafted away to parts unknown :mad:

It all boils down to support, if you buy direct from a Chinese company you wont get much of it once they have your money. If anything goes wrong with the shipping, or it doesn't work when you get it, (parts broken, falling to bits, etc) you will have to pay to return it to China - so make sure you get insurance for the transportation.

I chose to go with a local agent, but as mentioned above he's disappeared so no more support from him! :rolleyes:
To be fair, he did help when he was around though...

You would be well advised to get one (or two) spare laser tubes with your machine, they don't last forever and the freight is a killer, much better to have them packed in with the machine itself.
Don't go overboard on tubes though, 'have heard they will die even if unused, the CO2 leaks out or something (hasn't happened to mine yet :eek:

Good luck!
Bob

thanks for you reply mike

hi, dear friends, we offer cnc routers and laser machines, please contact me for more information. thanks.

Thanks for the info mike

hi, dear friends, we offer cnc routers and laser machines, please contact me for more information. thanks.

Just had a look at the web site Http://www.itopchina.com and couldn't find any reference to Lasers and not prices ...

does no give good image... Maybe ???

Just had a look at the web site Http://www.itopchina.com and couldn't find any reference to Lasers and not prices ...

does no give good image... Maybe ???

yes. recently we are refresh the information of website. firstly we add the information of cnc routers, after some days we will add laser machines after finished adding cnc routers. what do you need for laser machines ? please let me know that. thanks. You can email me by oliver9866@gmail.com also msn: oliver9866@hotmail.com.

Hey Oliver,

Why does the picture of the laser you posted look EXACTLY like a WK Laser LG1200 machine if you are the manufacture of them? In fact, that picture is from the WK Laser homepage at www.wklaser.com (http://www.wklaser.com).

Are you a re-seller of their machines?

Thanks,
Skip

Hi, Have you got moshidraw working.I got a laser a few weeks ago with moshi.
I can't get it to output to the machine, it says it is, but nothing.
Not sure if it is me or the software.
I will keep trying to figure it out.
Toby

Hey Oliver,

Why does the picture of the laser you posted look EXACTLY like a WK Laser LG1200 machine if you are the manufacture of them? In fact, that picture is from the WK Laser homepage at www.wklaser.com (http://www.wklaser.com).

Are you a re-seller of their machines?

Thanks,
Skip

hi, dear friend, we never be seller of wklaser, and we have our own laser factory. and sometimes, we use same machine pictures for some machines. like laser machines and cnc plasma cutter. also i can send u real photos of laser machines. for more information, pls contact me by email. thanks. Email: oliver9866@gmail.com MSN: oliver9866@hotmail.com.
waiting your quick reply. thanks. oliver zhang.

Hi, Have you got moshidraw working.I got a laser a few weeks ago with moshi.
I can't get it to output to the machine, it says it is, but nothing.
Not sure if it is me or the software.
I will keep trying to figure it out.
Toby

dear friend. moshisoftw is only for mini small laser, it can not support large format laser machines. please email me more information for your machines. thanks. waiting your quick reply. moshisoft is specially for this mini laser machine.

Hi,
Thank you for your reply.
My machine is the same as the picture you put up. I have just received it from your country.It is a 50w 4030 machine, So i hope it can do things bigger than stamps with a 400 X 300mm work area.
Thanks
Toby

Hello,
im verry sorry that it tunred out wrong for you, i have in several times offered free e-mail tech support to redsail customers and also free help to non redsail customers, i highly recommend the M500 machine from redsail and i will stand behind my recommendation by offerinf free tech support by e-mail to any one who purchases such machine, i will be happy to assist you in getting your machine back to working order if you can please provide more detail on the problem you have.


Your offer to help is very generous, but I have to say that if the M500 is the best that Chinese manufacturers are offering, then I'm afraid that doesn't speak much for overall quality.

I own an M500, and when I unboxed it, the laser power supply was off the mounting screws and loose in the compartment. The rubber wheels had also separated from the casters as it was shipped with the full weight of the machine resting on them. There were also several "fit and finish" issues, like grease / dirt smudges, dust and debris between the LCD display and the window, poor actuation of the main door interlock switch, etc. The software works, but is buggy and requires more than a couple of workarounds to get things to work properly. It also doesn't come configured for the machine, so you have to figure that one out as well. Forget about the end-of-travel sensors. They just don't work, and the machine is happy to keep spinning the steppers against the hard stops until your belt starts to suffer (so be careful not to do it). After using the cheap fountain pump supplied for cooling about 10 times, it developed a problem starting and now needs to be manually lifted out of the water to get it to start spinning and then quickly submerged for it to work. Even so, without active cooling, the water gets warm quickly with even moderate use.

I had, and still do have, a problem with the unit not producing good circular geometry. With very little help from RedSail (not that they weren't willing, just seemingly unable), I narrowed it down to the fact that the table was shipped without having been leveled to the laser (and no mention of such an adjustment being required) and the fact that the laser / mirror positioning is much more important and difficult than made out by the sparse instruction provided. Simply striking all of the surfaces with the laser is nowhere near sufficient. You had better have good right angles on the laser path all of the way through the system, or your power / cut quality will suffer tremendously. Currently I do not, and now use a small part of the table (the sweet spot) and make more runs until I have a chance to spend a couple of hours to correct it.

All of that having been said, I have still been able to be productive with the machine, and even though I would not consider myself a heavy user, it still behaves the same today (over a year later) as it did when I opened the box. Either I was very lucky, or the reports of the laser degrading over time regardless of use are exaggerated. Mine is still going strong a year later. Maybe this is just a testament to the quality of the laser used by RedSail.

The bottom line is that you had better be a tinkerer by nature, and expect very little help from the manufacturer in working out the issues if you buy one of these machines. I wouldn't worry too much about parts, though. There is nothing magical in these machines that can't be cobbled from parts from a different Chinese manufacturer. The boards, power supplies, optics, and laser tubes can be purchased from just about any company who sells these types of machines and made to work regardless of the original manufacturer. But you'll be going it pretty much alone. No big deal for some, but an insurmountable obstacle for others.

Hi all, i ´m another one who is losting my hair trying learn to use Moshidraw.. i did the machine make engraving but only drawing in moshidraw, when i try make the draw in another software like corel, photoshop in jpg or another pixel language the moshi show the message " this file is too big!! " i start with 800kb and try till 50kb and moshi show same message. anyone got same experience? how to solve that?. how can i import files from another software?
thx

Hi all, i ´m another one who is losting my hair trying learn to use Moshidraw.. i did the machine make engraving but only drawing in moshidraw, when i try make the draw in another software like corel, photoshop in jpg or another pixel language the moshi show the message " this file is too big!! " i start with 800kb and try till 50kb and moshi show same message. anyone got same experience? how to solve that?. how can i import files from another software?
thx

hi, dear friend. please let me know your email. i will contact you by email. thanks. waiting your quick reply by email.
Email: oliver9866@gmail.com
MSN: oliver9866@hotmail.com

Hi, I have got Moshi to outline, but can't get it to carve or cut.It is not very good software.
Toby

Hi, I have got Moshi to outline, but can't get it to carve or cut.It is not very good software.
Toby

hi, dear friend, please let me know your email, then i can email you some information how to solve your problems. waiting your email reply. thanks.
Email: oliver9866@gmail.com www.itopchina.com

Dear oliver zhang

Can you tell me what is the difference between 50 watt and 60 watt CO2 Chinese laser size of the dot. Means 50 watt have smaller dot than 60 watt. Will it effects on engraving for small fonts ?

The orange machines you show.
How do you adjust the speed in Moshidraw for them, as the machines only have an Amperometer on them.
Toby

Dear oliver zhang

Can you tell me what is the difference between 50 watt and 60 watt CO2 Chinese laser size of the dot. Means 50 watt have smaller dot than 60 watt. Will it effects on engraving for small fonts ?

hi, muqtadir, for 50 watt and 60 watt co2 laser, that is the power of laser tube, It does not affect on engraving for small fonts. The resolution depends on machines.
for your consult of cnc routers, i have replyed you by email. hope you can enjoy that.
waiting your quick reply. thanks.

The orange machines you show.
How do you adjust the speed in Moshidraw for them, as the machines only have an Amperometer on them.
Toby

hi, Toby. please download the software pictures to check. you can find "speed" option from 12.jpg picture. hope you can enjoy that.

please download it and check every picture for your problems.

Dear oliver zhang

Thanks for the clarification.

Why the engraving text is not clear from corners and using 60 watt. (1.2M long) machine. From same company same model but have 50 watt. (80 cm Long) machine but the result is not same. Software is also different and it is not Moshidraw.

Dear oliver zhang

Thanks for the clarification.

Why the engraving text is not clear from corners and using 60 watt. (1.2M long) machine. From same company same model but have 50 watt. (80 cm Long) machine but the result is not same. Software is also different and it is not Moshidraw.

that is because these 2 machines use different motherboards. so the result is different. for 60 watt laser tube, usually they use lasercut 5.0 for machines. and 50 watt laser tube, they should use Moshi software. maybe that is such case. and we offer 400*400mm working area machine with 50 watt and Moshi software, 600*400mm working area machine with 60 watt and lasercut 5.0 software.

Can lasercut software and motherboard be bought to replace the Moshisoft in the machine now
Thanks