My project is a Light Machine TMC 1000 CNC tabletop mill that I bought locally. This mill came out of a technical school and looks like it only cut plastics or wax. I bought it for the steel. I am replacing the original drive motors with double-shafted stepper motors so I can add some handles. The wiring harness for the steppers, limit switches and 1hp DC motor with working variable speed control are in good shape. I bought a replacement E-stop button and new cog belts for the steppers and spindle motor.
I just bought 3 Gecko 202 drives from their August sale to run the stepper motors.
My next step is to put together the power supply and parallel port breakout board from Campbell designs. I have been going though old posts here and found a lot of good information. Bob Campbell also has a PDF that has helped me with transformer and capacitor sizes.
I have an old Hughes aircraft aluminum server box that I am going to use for the control panel. The next step is to layout all the parts, I found some pictures here on this forum that are giving me some ideas too.
Here is a picture of the TMC 1000 that I am retrofitting. I will update the pictures as I go.
Thanks for all information I found here.
Frank

That looks like a MAXNC 10CL. Whatever it is its a very nice mini mill. Not cheap when new I bet. Nice machine from the looks of it. The more info you share the better. Congratulations, welcome aboard, and keep us all posted on your progress, with lots of pics.

(The above opinions are the authors and do not represent those of CNCZone or its management.)

Here is a link for Light Machines.
http://www.lightmachines.com/productcenter/pro-light1000-page1.html
Intelitek is the new company that I ordered the parts from.
http://www.intelitek.com/products/product.asp?cid=1&pid=2&did=3
Frank

My project is a Light Machine TMC 1000 CNC tabletop mill that I bought locally. This mill came out of a technical school and looks like it only cut plastics or wax. I bought it for the steel. I am replacing the original drive motors with double-shafted stepper motors so I can add some handles. The wiring harness for the steppers, limit switches and 1hp DC motor with working variable speed control are in good shape. I bought a replacement E-stop button and new cog belts for the steppers and spindle motor.
I just bought 3 Gecko 202 drives from their August sale to run the stepper motors.
My next step is to put together the power supply and parallel port breakout board from Campbell designs. I have been going though old posts here and found a lot of good information. Bob Campbell also has a PDF that has helped me with transformer and capacitor sizes.
I have an old Hughes aircraft aluminum server box that I am going to use for the control panel. The next step is to layout all the parts, I found some pictures here on this forum that are giving me some ideas too.
Here is a picture of the TMC 1000 that I am retrofitting. I will update the pictures as I go.
Thanks for all information I found here.
Frank

It's a nice machine. I learned on one back in high school. I wish I had it today. I did mostly aluminum stuff on it..cut like a champ.

One of the schools I work for has the MaxNC 10s (old ones) and they are not worth much. The other school is trying to get a light machine 1000. I have used it and it works fine, but its old software. I made the parts in AutoCAD as DXF. Then converted to g codes. Than milled them.

What are your plans for upgrading to newer XP based software or do you have any? I assume you would need new drivers and software (new controller?) to just use the CAD or Inventor files (STL~etc.).

I am going to use Mach 3 with Win2000 through the parallel port. I have the Campbell design breakout board and Gecko 202's to run the steppers. I have Alebre design 3d software, Meshcam with Cutviewer and Sheetcam for 2d. I have yet to put together the power supply and control panel. I made the table to give me a better idea on how I am going to mount the control panel. The table is measures 26L x 36W x 38H. I made it out of 2-1/2 square tubing 1/8th inch wall. It is 38 inches tall so when I have the mill finished and working I will be able to stand comfortably. I found the metal tubing and a 1/16th thick stainless steel top with bend side at a metal scrap yard. The table legs have 2-1/4 round pipe welded into the legs with solid aluminum machined feet. With just the top on it is extremely rigid and solid when I try to shake it by hand. With the mill on it I don't think there will be any vibration problem. I also found a stainless steel electrical control box that I modified to use as the control panel. I think I am going to mount the control box under the table as the top drawer and add more drawers under it for tooling and storage.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11372
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11373
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11374

Hmm...this could work well for us. :) I am sorry to ask so many questions, but its been left to me to figure something out with a shoe string budget (or no real budget) and I don't know a lot about CNC yet.

My boss loves the prolight machine even though the software is so old (me too). To update through intellitek is very expensive (if you can get them to answer anything). We are going through that now with a scorbot thats malfunctioning.

The table is not a problem at all. My father works in a steel fabrication shop.

I just downloaded the Mach 3 (is that a trail version or real?) The gecko 202s are not that expensive. I have not found anything about the Campbell design breakout board yet, but I will keep looking.

We teach AutoCAD 2006 (2D & 3D) as well as Inventor here, so hopefully whatever CAM software we get will work with those file types. Ok....just did some light reading. The meshcam will work with the 3D (STL files) and the sheetcam will work with the 2D (DXF). Neither are terribly expensive.

They don't typically post prices in here, but would you mind giving me a ballpark guestimate of how much it might cost to get the machine set up and running? Since its possible, I will talk to him and see if he can go ahead and get the mill. It works well.

Thanks for you help so far,
Brian

I love this machine when I first saw it. It used R8 collets had a working 1hp DC motor with controller and so hi-tech looking compared to my Bridgeport.
Intellitek said to upgrade the control panel was $2000 forand $1500 for a PCI card that would go into a desktop computer. I'm not even sure if a PCI slot is still used for XP pentium 4 anymore. I didn't even ask what their software would cost.
I think with all hardware components was under $1000 which includes I did get 4 new cog belts and I a E-Stop button from Intellitek and Mach3 licence.
On Bab Campells web site he has some tutorials on power supplies and search old posts here will give you all the information you will need to build a newer Mach3 control system to use.
Mach 3 is the full version but limited to 1000 lines of code. (I think).
Email me with your phone number if I can be of any help.
Frank

I agree. Its a very nice machine. The one he wants to get is working just fine (I have used it for demos several timesto take CAD files and machine parts). Its just really old software. He got those same approximate costs from intellitek, but they didn't seem to interested in helping further. (We are trying to get info on the robot right now)

As far as I know...everything works fine and I would not have to replace any of the main parts of the machine itself. I will look at the site tomorrow and see what I can read. This is all new to me. So around $1000 for what you have now (including the mach3). Did that include the meshcam and sheetcam too?

That leaves the controller and power supply still then? Thats a ton cheaper than the other way.

I can't thank you enough for your help. This is falling into place perfectly for what he wanted me to try to figure out.

Thanks,
Brian

EDIT: PM sent to you

TurboCNC is also a great control software. Not a pretty as MACH 3, but runs on any Pentium 1 under Microsofts last stable OS.

No Meshcam, Sheetcam and Alibre Design were not included because they are so software. I included Mach3 because it runs the Hardware.
This is my first CNC project my TNC 1000 did not come with the original computer, software and control panel. I bought a 9-pin and 15-pin panel mounted connectors to use with existing wiring to motors, limit switches and E-stop.
I did get Intelitek to give me the pin assignments for the 9-pin and 15-pin cable connectors.

The $1000 includes the following
Power supply parts (transformer and capacitors etc…)
Double-shafted stepper motors.
(3) 202 Gecko drives
Campbell designs parallel port breakout board.
4 cog belts and E-stop button from Intelitek
Mach 3 license
Misc.parts (fan, heatsinks, connectors and wiring)

This is going to sound dumb to those of you who understand all of this, but.....

The one we are looking at is a functioning machine. It has the controller and everything there functions. I remembered it being a dos based software, but it is a win 95 based (whatever it is). Would I need a new power supply, steppers, stepper controllers, and board?

In general....what I am trying to ask is: Can I use whats there and just upgrade the software/compter? We have some win 98 and 2000 machines around if XP won't work.

I downloaded the 60 day trial of meshcam and it looks almost exactly like some of the demo software a salesman is trying to sell us with his machine. I loved how it took my STL files and machined parts.

Again, sorry to be such a pest, but this is a wonderful place to learn. :)

You can definitely use the steppers and power supply. Whether you can use the stepper drivers will depend how integrater they are with the old controller. If you are lucky, these drivers are driven with either step and directions signals , or phase signals. If this is the case you can connnect a PC running TurboCNC or Mach 3 (Does Art have Phase output)?

I believe the ProLight 1000 came with servo motors, not steppers. Servo controller retrofits are more expensive, I believe. Changing the motors to steppers would be necessary to use the less expensive stepper controllers.

Mine had stepper motors that I replaced with double shafted one to add a jog handle.
Here are pictures of the motor mounted, Motor with handle, and Y and X stepper covers with jog handles.

I have a delima I'm facing in respect to the TMC 1000. The school I work at had one, but we didnt really use it that much, so we sent it off to the warehouse, and I was going to "bid" on it....but as it turns out some how between the school and the warehouse the mill its self, and the control box got seperated. I was told that the control box might have ended up with the computers they get, and when they get computers that they figure are useless, they scrap them :( I really hope thats not the case. I'm still thinking about getting it anyway, I figured I could find a control box somewhere. Its a really nice machine and I would really hate to let it go to waste. I still have access to the software and the computer it was hooked up too, so it has the interface card, but I need the box the connects between the computer and the mill. I'm still going to see if it is at all possible to find out exactly what happened to the control box, but I'm not going to hold my breath. Anyway, my main question is does anyone have any idea where I could get a control box? The program on the computer runs on windows (windows95 I think). Thanks so much for any information.
-Sam

I drilled all the holes for the switches, indicator lights and AC cords and plasma cut for the fan and 9, 15 and 25pin connectors. I arranged the parts and mounted them to an aluminum plate and then mounted the plate to the standoffs in the bottom of the stainless steel control box. The control box is going to be mounted under the table with full extension ball bearing slides and pull out by the handles on both sides to access the door.
The switches in the front of the panel are for spindle, power supplies, fans and coolant with matching indicators. One switch to run the spindle separately so I can use the mill manually as I did in modifying the heatsinks and other small parts. I am using a 35v toroidal transformer which will produce 49v for my steppers. A small 12v-power supply will run the small fan positioned inline with the fins of 3 heatsinks under the 202 Gecko drives on top. I got as far a wiring up the bride rectifier, 2 capacitors and fuse block to Gecko’s.
The case fan is 110v and will exhaust the air drawn in from the two grated inlets on the door. The door has a louver behind it that will guide the incoming air to the front of the box over the small 12v fan and toroidal transformer. I had to order new 9 and 15 pin connectors for heavier wire. The pins will take 18 gauge wire that match the wiring harness in the TMC 1000. The new connectors have individual pins to solder on the wire then install in the blocks. The AC cords, switches and indicators are not yet wired. I have to wait until the connectors come in and then the time to continue.
Frank

I have a delima I'm facing in respect to the TMC 1000. The school I work at had one, but we didnt really use it that much, so we sent it off to the warehouse, and I was going to "bid" on it....but as it turns out some how between the school and the warehouse the mill its self, and the control box got seperated. I was told that the control box might have ended up with the computers they get, and when they get computers that they figure are useless, they scrap them :( I really hope thats not the case. I'm still thinking about getting it anyway, I figured I could find a control box somewhere. Its a really nice machine and I would really hate to let it go to waste. I still have access to the software and the computer it was hooked up too, so it has the interface card, but I need the box the connects between the computer and the mill. I'm still going to see if it is at all possible to find out exactly what happened to the control box, but I'm not going to hold my breath. Anyway, my main question is does anyone have any idea where I could get a control box? The program on the computer runs on windows (windows95 I think). Thanks so much for any information.
-Sam
Hi Sam
You must have posted when I was typing.
That Mill is worth it even without the Control panel. Buy it an make your own contorl panel. Use the parts above to make one. I could have bought the original control panel but it was Dos and I didn't have the software or know how to use it. Since I am going ot have to learn to use software to run the mill I want to learn the new stuff.
Frank

That box you have there looks strangely like a denford box. We have 3 denford machines (pieces of crap that they are) at the school. The only one that works rather well is the router. The novamill is next in line, and the novaturn.....piece of crap (atleast as far as the "software" that comes with it. We had the novaturn out atleast 3 or 4 times for repair. It was out 3 times i think before i got there, and once after i was working at the school. One time a tech came out did some poking around, said there was a thermal overload somewhere. Took half of it (the lathe its self i think) got a "new" one sent back, the $300 sheild had a small crack in the side. then about 6months later with less than 3 or 4 hours total run time on it, a student had turned 3 of the 4 feet for a wooden box they were making, and on the 2nd half of the proccess it quit working, they called me i step in the room and smell the magic smoke.... A stepper mosfett chip blew, well all three of them actully. One had a hole in it, one had a crack, and the other one was discolored. Soo i looked online (not wanting to deal with their tech support again, specially considering that denford dropped the vendor we got the machines from) found a website that had the exact mosfett needed (st something or other) they cost about $7 a piece so i thought "this is alot better than paying for a $1200 replacment board from baldor. Replaced all the chips turned it on....the fuse still blew. Looked around found 3 more ic's one was cracked in the middle. replaced the one that was bad, and it was still blowing fuses. We needed it up and running so we finally just ordered a new controler board. It works...and the kids got their brass feet made for their wooden boxes in woodshop. I liked the insides of the denford boxes, but their software takings come getting use to. The software we had just couldnt do 3d, well it could but it only displayed in 2d, which made it hard to do 3d objects. I wish i would have had more time with the software part of it, but oh well. We actully bought mastercam for the tmc mill (and we had solid edge version 7 so that was kind of nice) but i never really got around to making anything, and the stuff i did make was messed up because i didnt know about setting backlash till after it was too late and i really didnt have time to mess with it. I think ill still try and see if i can get the mill. I figured i could get the control box or make one, and now that you said go ahead and get the mill and make the box, that makes me more willing to do so. Don't be surprized if I start coming to you for advice on how to get this done. :) This reply became alot longer than i was planning on so I think I'll end it for now. :)

The control panel I have was an electrical panel box I found in one of the metal scrap yards. In this particular scrap yard I can find good round stock and stainless and aluminum tubing. When I saw this electrical box I liked it except for the 2 hole in the door but at 75 cents a pound I bought it. I plasma cut 2 inches out from the depth. I tig welded it together again, added the SS screening to the holes in the door and a louver to direct the airflow.
This is my first CNC project and found a lot of my building information by searching this site.
Thanks Frank

I am looking at one of these as well but have not been able to look at it in person as of yet. It looks like the base of the TMC 100 is slightly different than the ProLight 1000 and I was curious as to the material- cast iron or the polymer composite? Also, does it have THK style linear rails or dovetails or a combination of the two and if so, what axis is what? Sorry for all the questions!

Best,
Ryan

Oops, I meant TMC 1000 not 100...and the only difference that I can see in the base is that the TMC looks to have a two piece base while the Prolight 1000 has a one big casting. I think I am going to do it no matter- but its always nice to have as much info as possible.

Thanks again,
Ryan

I have been really busy lately. I need to read this thread, but it looks like you made some real progress. Do you have it all up and running now?

We now have the machine at the school, but its in storage. Once Finals are over (a month or so) I hope to get to work on it. We have the control box and the old computer with the software. Hopefully, that will give me a good start.

If you need some help with the CAD end of it let me know. I have AutoCAD 2006 and a lot of other Autodesk software that I use daily.

Hi:

I recently acquired a TMC-1000, that I used to use quite a bit at work. It has the old WIndows 95 DOS based software, and servo motors, w/controller. Recently, after getting it all set up, I tried firing it up, and although I can hear the motors energizing, like I used to, when I try and make the table traverse, in the X and Y, or the head in the Z axis, nothing moves. At first I thought it was a keyboard or mouse issue, but I can control the motor spindle through the interface. Any suggestions?

Also, is there a better way around the software issue, rather than using the clunky DOS software that came with it? i've tried to go back to Light Machines, but as you are aware of, I am sure, they want to treat me like I'm made of money :)

Thanks,

44 Echo

I am looking at one of these as well but have not been able to look at it in person as of yet. It looks like the base of the TMC 100 is slightly different than the ProLight 1000 and I was curious as to the material- cast iron or the polymer composite? Also, does it have THK style linear rails or dovetails or a combination of the two and if so, what axis is what? Sorry for all the questions!

Best,
Ryan


Hi Ryan
My Light Machine has a aluminum base and factory added 2 inch block so there is more room to mill with a vice on the table. The newer prolight 1000 have a composite base (composite marble I think) to make it heavier for for better cutting. Mine has linear rails and ball screws.
Frank

Hi:

I recently acquired a TMC-1000, that I used to use quite a bit at work. It has the old WIndows 95 DOS based software, and servo motors, w/controller. Recently, after getting it all set up, I tried firing it up, and although I can hear the motors energizing, like I used to, when I try and make the table traverse, in the X and Y, or the head in the Z axis, nothing moves. At first I thought it was a keyboard or mouse issue, but I can control the motor spindle through the interface. Any suggestions?

Also, is there a better way around the software issue, rather than using the clunky DOS software that came with it? i've tried to go back to Light Machines, but as you are aware of, I am sure, they want to treat me like I'm made of money :)

Thanks,

44 Echo

Hi 44Echo
I was given the option for the old control panel and ISA card for the DOS system. I turned them down to save $200. I am new to CNC in making retrofit and learned a lot, but did not want to learn an obsolete DOS CNC control system. I had a choice and with Mach 3 and Windows XP and can learn to use the newest Cad /Cam software I can afford.
You may be use the power supply and control box for the servo's.. Then get gecko servo drives and a Campbell breakout board to convert to using a parallel cable to mach 3.
Frank

I called Prolight and talked with a service technician. He found an old wiring diagram and gave me the color codes over the phone from it. I changed the steppers and added a connector to the wiring harness and noted the color changes to my diagrams. Here are my diagrams to help me wire the 15 pin and 9 pin connectors that match the original connectors on the wiring harness that go to the steppers.
The 15pin and 9 pin connectors in the diagrams are shown from the side that I need to wire then from inside the control panel. The “To Steppers Color” is where the 4 stepper colored wires is added to the wiring harness via connector.
Frank
Disclaimer
Use these diagrams at your own risk. I do not know if your light Machine has the same wiring harness.

Thanks Frank,

These diagrams should prove most helpful when I get around to updating the controls. I want to keep the mill stock and build the new controller with matching connectors so it will be plug and play. I can live with the DOS for awhile, at least until it cuts all the panel cutouts for the new controller. The DOS stuff is very simlpe to use but somewhat limited. It probably won't like 3d cut files with 40,000 blocks of code. That is the beauty of MACH3 and PC hardware cause is so cheap to set-up and upgrade as required. The mill itself seems a very solid and precision piece of tooling!

Love to hear from any and all lurkers on the list who have this fine machine...............we need more coverage here in the forum. Please step up and let us know you are out there. (group)


gerald

Hi again, everyone.

I agree with Gerald- these are fine machines and need more coverage here!:)

We have a Prolight 1000 we purchased at auction- it was set up as a winding machine for stents- didn't have a spindle head on it, but I recognized the base and rotary table right off the bat. We had a Minitech MiniMill 1 with an NSK spindle and Flashcut- so we moved both to the Prolight and I have been nothing but impressed. We just purchased a Prolight 2000 mill and 3000 lathe- they were in the classified ads right here on the zone. We're going to look and see what is the best route to take as far as upgrading the motion control, but I am hoping the DOS setup the mill comes with will be able to handle the code generated by OneCNC for the short term. We may end up mounting our NSK spindle to the side of the stock spindle head, move the Flashcut over, and keep the existing mill hardware for a later upgrade. I really like Flashcut, and don't mind waiting until we make some money to upgrade, so long as I can get what needs to be done, done.

Anyway, I'm impressed with these machines and am learning a lot from following this thread- so thanks everyone!

Peace,
Ryan

Ryan,

You should have little problem posting code to the mill. How much code will depend on the memory of your DOS pc. Post it as basic generic G code or possibly FANUC. You might want to manual edit to add a safety block depending on how you want the machine to start up. Originally I thought the DOS would be a pain but it isn't so bad. Main problem I had was I didn't have a DOS pc running in the office where I program and had to go to the machine shop to test/run. I did set up an old PC to save me the walking I have cut a few parts with several thousand lines of code and still had loads of memory left (like 90%) There is something in the book I recall about allocating memory to the program but I haven't needed to do that.

Gerald

Ok, so I have a basic question am hoping Frank, or Gerald, or any others who have this mill can help me understand: What type of toolholders do I need to get? Do I need to get/make a drawbar? I am only used to the collets that the NSK uses- and I used a Sherline awhile back- but I am confused because I thought the mill had an R8 taper but on the Benchman website (the company's current site) it says that an ISO 20 tool holder is included- is that differnent than R8 and what is the difference between the threaded type and the ones that have a pull stud? I am assuming on is auto tool change and the other manual? I would like to order some tooling/toolholders before going to pick the machine up later this week- I need to start cutting as soon as I get back.

All help appreciated! And Frank, sorry to intrude on your project log- it just seems like this is the place to gather for talking about these great mills! :)

Ryan

This mill uses R8 collets. I also use a 3/4 shank ER-16 collet holder and spring collets. Posting here does not bother me at all.
Frank

Hi 44Echo
I was given the option for the old control panel and ISA card for the DOS system. I turned them down to save $200. I am new to CNC in making retrofit and learned a lot, but did not want to learn an obsolete DOS CNC control system. I had a choice and with Mach 3 and Windows XP and can learn to use the newest Cad /Cam software I can afford.
You may be use the power supply and control box for the servo's.. Then get gecko servo drives and a Campbell breakout board to convert to using a parallel cable to mach 3.
Frank

Thanks Frank, however, at some point I do want to look at getting away from the DOS system, but at this point, I just want to make sure everything is operational. Like I said before, I can't get ANY of the axis to move. Is there something I can do to troubleshoot this thing, make sure the servos are still good, before I start thinking about conversions...?

They look like great machines, Ill trade one for my H.F.Mini Mill any day!

Thanks Frank, however, at some point I do want to look at getting away from the DOS system, but at this point, I just want to make sure everything is operational. Like I said before, I can't get ANY of the axis to move. Is there something I can do to troubleshoot this thing, make sure the servos are still good, before I start thinking about conversions...?

So are you running the original motor control box with the card installed in your PC?? Have you checked all fuses in the control box? Is the TMC software installed and running properly? You must be running an old version of windows like 95 or possibly 98 as DOS programs will not run under XP. I use the TMC software under Win95 with good success. When you boot every thing up does the software at least recognize if the big red e-stop switch is pushed? You must make sure the key switch on the controller is unlocked. These are just a few thoughts that cometo mind.

Gerald

They look like great machines, Ill trade one for my H.F.Mini Mill any day!

I wouldn't give you mine for 2 HF mini mill's. But seriously I have both machine and the HF is a toy along side the TMC. These are very capable, highly precise machines. I doubt the HF will ever come close even with the best possible CNC conversion. But I will let you know, if I can ever finish my HF CNC conversion to actually compare them. The TMC has a bigger table, more travel, twice or better the weight ,precision ballscrews and all axis run on fully supported linear rails. Hard for an HF to compete. Especially when you factor in that I have a KENNEMETAL qwick change tooling set-up on mine which is very convenient.....................not as convenient as a ATC but still very nice.

Gerald

Not to sound like a broken record, but does anyone know how to begin to troubleshoot these things? I have a TMC-1000 that sounds as though the motors are energizing, yet I cannot get any movement out of any of the axis. The spindle motor does turn and respon to the controller, however. I haven't the knowledge, or resources to start rebuilding or converting.

Thanks,

44 Echo

Sorry gerald, but I didn't see your post....
Yes, I have all of the original equipment installed, with the original controller. All fuses are good. I will check for recognition of the E-Stop, but I do not have a keyswitch on my unit. Again, all original and used to run fine, but I haven't ran it in a while. Tried to fire it up, motors energize, but table or head won't move. Spindle motor turns and responds to software, so I am assuming the E-stop is not an issue.

Thanks,

44 Echo

44echo

Do you get any on screen indication of a limit switch being tripped? I got caught out on that one, having hit the limit of travel in one axis all are disabled and the only movement possible is to jog the offending axis off that limit. Possibly you have a failed or stuck limit switch? If you don't have a limit switch error on screen(will see it on manual mode screen) than I would trip one on the limit switches and see if it does register. The X axis is easy to trip the limits with your finger on either end of the table. Only other thing I would recommend is if you are comfortable with doing it is to remove the slotted PCB from your PC (power off and unplugged of course) If you notice carefully and your board is like mine, there are a number of IC's )integrated circuits) on the board that are plugged into sockets. Firmly and carefully press on each to ensure they are fully seated into their sockets. IC's will creep over time and make poor connections. Do this with all socketed IC's and than reinstall the PCB into the pcb and reconnect the cables and test again. You could also try reinstalling the software from scratch if you havethe original disks. Also I have noticed on my test PC I have the software installed but no mill or pcb connected. I use it to run tests only on my code. It will show no errors for e-stop or limits cause it knows there is no PCB installed. So if you get no errors from the switch the PC is not seeing the PCB. You could also try it in a different slot in the PC

Let me know if this helps or advise me as to any results or changes. Removing the PCB should not be done unless you are comfortable working with this sort of thing and if you have been experiencing static shocks or zaps you must be careful not to zap th epc or PCB, in absence of proper static discharge straps simply touching the screw on a grounded AC outlet should discharge any static on your body or clothes. It normally is not a big issue and after 20+ years in the service industry with 10 on computor hardware I have never zapped anything but there is always a first time. If in doubt seek advice from someone more experienced. If we were close I would look at it for you but I doubt you live near Manitoba (central Canada)

Cheers

Gerald

Gerald:

Thank you very much. I did not think about the limit switch, in that I thought that they would "kill" that particular axis, not all of them. I didn't realize whether or not the error was registering, but I will check again. My gut feel is that I have a bad cable, in that one of them got pressed pretty hard against the wall. I was wondering if you or anyone else might have schematics, so I could "bell" out the cables?
No, I don't live anywhere near central Canada. I live on the headwaters of the Chesapeake Bay, in a little Town called Perryville, MD. If you look at a US map, and follow the Chesapeake Bay, all the way North, there we are! Anyway, thanks again, I'll keep you posted as to what I find out.

Sincerely

Jerry

Have any of you ever broken a Prolight down for maintenance or upgrade as far as the ballscrews, linear rails, pulleys, etc.? I have taken the table off to get at the saddle and while I was doing that, was going to see how practical it would be to change the timing belt pulley size on the ball screw. Long story short- I used a pulley puller to get the thing off and now see that it does not use a key or a flat with set screw to keep it in place- basically a friction fit with the set screws on the round shaft only. I am concerned about damaging the ball screw/ball nut when trying to get the pulley back on by tapping it gently with a rubber mallet.

Also, if anyone wants pics of the balls screws, ball nuts, and all that from under the table, let me know and I will post some. I was always curious about the design and setup but didn't want to take the time to look. We have some time to do some more in depth maintenance and tweaking at the moment and curiosity got the best of me. By the way we have two machines and they both have different ball nut, bearing set up, and coloring of the polymer granite base. One was purchased from a medical company though and may have been modified.

Any advice on getting that pulley back on would be appreciated and let me know if you want any pics of the mills while I have them broken down.

Best,
Ryan

Ryan,

I think the early LIGHT MACHINES TMC1000 is a little different than the newer Prolight. I have an older machine and I believe it is cast Al but I could be wrong. Anyway the older machines have less travel by a small amount and as well according to the specs weigh considerably less. My machine spec says it was approx 190lbs and the newer spec says over 300. I think the newer machines had more composites in the base and column for vibration damping.

The manual exists online for this unit and has exploded views and part numbers for all the bits. Can't really help you otherwise. But I have learned that if it ain't broke......................don't take it apart to fix it better!! But hey I am not sure if that makes me smart or just LAZY :)

I wonder if you still run the original control boxes on these mills or have they been converted to something else? What version of software are you running? DOS or Windows?


Good luck

Gerald

Hi Gerald,

Thanks for the reply. Actually I believe we have a Prolight 2000 and a Prolight of unknown numerical origin. :) The 2000 is servo and we are just getting aquainted- will be running the original DOS program. The other is the machine we aquired in a modified form and we use Flashcut with that one. Also, the flashcut machine has an NSK 50k spindle rather than the original spindle head. We wanted more oomph on the cutting for some applications and that is why we got the second machine. Both were purchased used and are in great shape- I love these machines after working on a tiny lightweight mill with 5" travel in all axes!

I guess I am just puzzled as to why the area of the ballscrew where the pulley rests doesn't employ a flat for the setscrew- making it unnecessary for the super tight fit of the pulley on the ballscrew. I wanted to change the ratio on the stepper machine to take advantage of the larger stepper motors we have, rather than the original 50oz or 150oz. the machine came with. We use 250oz steppers and I have heard that steppers offer more torque at the lower end so my thinking was change ratio to 1 to 1 and allow lower rpm for the same feedrates.

What I should have done was left well enough alone- holiday breaks are dangerous around here since I get bored and decide to "improve" things. :)

And the answer is...

I had posted the same question in the linear components forum here and the tip that did the trick- heat the pulley up. Slid on no problem.

Hi Ryan,

Hi Ryan,
Can we see any of the if anyone wants pics of the balls screws, ball nuts, and all that from under the table. Thanks

Calvin

I wonder if anyone on the list with a PROLIGHT 1000 or Light Machines TMC1000 desktop mill is running the Windows WPLM 1000 software. I would appreciate an email from anyone running or with access to a copy of this older software.

Thanks

Gerald

Better late than never? Here are two pics from under the hood of a Prolight- just removed the gortex bellows in these. The pics were taken for a machine we recently auctioned. I also have included for your viewing pleasure some pictures of another Prolight that we're restoring back to good health- it was better off before I mucked it up yesterday, that is for sure- I ended up in one of those scenarios where you're trying to do a good thing- but keep making it worse- and then keep trying to fix it- and making it worse still- etc. etc. So yeah, I have included those for some giggles- since I was not giggling at the time. And yes, I know I am an idiot for messing with the ballscew in the first place.

By the way- does anyone know what kind of tool will get the dang thing OFF? It is stuck on there but GOOD. That is how it was destroyed- trying to get it off. I have tried everything from pin spanner to screw driver in the holes in the top- it just eats whatever I try to use. It's embarrassing enough calling Intelitek with the need for a replacement screw but if I have to send the whole thing in to get fixed...man that will just bite.

Well judging from the photo's "That can't be good!" Man I sure am glad I am lazy and always leave well enough alone!!

I wonder what INTELITEK quoted for the new ballscrew? Was it complete nut and screw or just the nut? Not that I plan to take mine apart(nuts)

good luck

These machines seem to come in R8 or ISO 20.

But I've never seen a draw bar or pull stud lever. How do you change the tools on these?

Thanks!

-Jeff

The manual change machines use a large SHCS for pulling the collet up into the taper- at least the R8 machines do. I think the threading on an R8 is 7/16-20? The newer machines apear to come in ISO 20 only- and look to have some sort of lever atop the spindle for changing tools.

It's interesting that none of our Prolight spindles have the pin inside the spindle for aligning the collet- I am assuming this was done to assist with the auto tool change option. I am not familiar with the auto tool change though. We use collets or the Royal Quick Change adapter.

Gerald-

You are not lazy- you're just SMART for leaving well enough alone. Although I really do prefer to tear things down to the nuts and bolts and reassemble in order to learn the ins and outs of the machine- I am certainly learning on this one! On the older machines there is a double nut configuration and those are really easy to work on. The newer machines (Our 92 machine has double nuts) have the single nut with the internal ball return and I just don't understand why it is screwed into the saddle so TIGHT. I mean, it's like it's glued in there or something. I've not yet heard back from Intelitek- but imagine it will have to go back to get fixed- I don't want to mess up the saddle by continuing to try and remove the destroyed nut. I have read that single nut setups like this are matched to the specific screw- so I may end up buying the whole thing, I don't know. I'll post when I find out though. I sent you a PM a few weeks back I think regarding another of your posts, by the way- just a heads up if you haven't seen it.

Thanks Snapman!

Also, does anyone know the pin-out of the DB25 connector into the light machines control box? Can you configure Mach3 to use it, or do you need a whole new driver system if you don't want to pay for the light machines software?

Thanks!

-Jeff

No problem, Jeff.

I am not sure of the pinout for the control box. Which machine do you have? Intelitek support is really cool about helping folks with older machines out- I'm sure if you contacted them they could email or fax over the schematic.

I haven't heard of anyone running Mach 3 with the light machines control box but I have heard of people who have a Prolight 2000 (older DOS based servo machines) using aftermarket CAM or CNC (don't know which) software that outputs directly to the machine somehow. I have no idea how it would be done though or who offers the software- they use an animatics control. I am looking into that now to see how I can upgrade our PL2000 at a later date to a Windows based setup.

I do know that in most cases, even the older control boxes for the Prolight mills and lathes- that are supposedly not able to run the Windows based software-can be adjusted to do so. I have done this in the past- it's just a matter of moving three little jumpers.

Peace,
Ryan

Jeff,

Software is readily available at no cost for 1000's as long as you have a complete set-up with the PCB for the PC. INTELITEK emailled me an older Windows version to try and it works great. The 25pin connector on the control box is not likely to be a standard parallel connection that would be addressable with MACH thru the standard PC parallel port. If you could get a service manual and or schematics for the box this could be determined more accurately.


Ryan,

Thanks for heads up on PM. I have replied! thanks

Gerald

$1236.00 for new ballscrew and nut- they are sold as a set. That makes this lesson damn near as expensive as a college course!

The good news is that they told me it was normal for those nuts to be tightl and hard to unscrew from the saddle, being the dissimilar metals- and gave me the secret procedure to remove the nut:

Apply screw driver tip carefully to side of one notch- and whack with a hammer a few times to break the nut loose.

Worked like a charm and the nut is actually unscathed save for a a few small chips out of the outer surface. And the fact that it needs to be reloaded. I was really happy considering how bad things were looking with the balls falling out all over the place. I'm going to see if I can reload it myself or more than likely send it out- it's an internal return nut with 3 circuits and I have no clue how to get all those balls back in there!

$1236 ouch! Definately no plans to make my machine work better............:withstupi :)

HAHA, no kidding! It's funny because this entire debacle (starting with the pulley, finally ending with removal of the ball nut) started because- and this is no joke- I hit underneath the table with compressed air and blew a bunch of aluminum chips all up and underneath the table- and into the felt pads for oiling the linear rods. I was going nuts thinking that everytime I moved the table all that really fine aluminum swarf was sanding away at the linear components. Guess I woud have been better off leaving well enough alone. :) Since the ball nut and ballscrew are fine- the only penalty has been down time and late nights learning new stuff. Overall it was nerve wracking, but much better than it could have been. And I got that damn aluminum out of the felt pads! :D

I have not been working on my TMC 1000 since my last post. I am keeping the 2 connector and wiring that came on the mill. I bought the matching 15-pin and 9-pin connectors for the back of my control panel from Mouser.com.
571-2052033 - 9P SOCKET TIN
571-2052052 - 15P SOCKET TIN
571-665693 - SOLDER SKT CNT 18
I ordered connectors that came with separate solder pins that could be used on 18-gauge wire from the geckos and power supply to the connectors.
I have been reading up and have configured a IBM Thinkpad with Windows XP for Mach3. The setup for Mach 3 requires XP to be trimmed down to run Mach 3 with minimal left over for anything else. I will be working in the control panel because I want to get it running soon.
Frank

TMC 1000 + Mach 3

Here is my finished up TMC 1000 and running and am glad it works. Doing something for the first time is the hardest because the outcome is unknown. I am using a T30 ThinkPad with XP (optimized) which is very stable in Mach 3.
I had to keep updating my wiring diagrams every time something changed when doing the actual wiring. I needed to have a correct schematic to finish the wiring. The control panel running with Campbell breakout board and 202 Gecko drives connected to my TMC 1000 though the original 9 pin (Z harness) and 15 pin X+Y harness) connectors. I couple of the limit switches where common used the same pin assignments in the original wiring. In Mach and on the breakout board LED’s I had a X- limit switch grounding with the Z limits which I thought was separate. I retraced the wiring and found that the X- limit switch was common with the Z+ limit and that pin assignment was with the Z harness so I revised the wiring again.
I did have a sporadic problem with a frequency spike every 3 seconds. I had no problem with the laptop the first day I used it. I cut the roadrunner on 3 or for plates with no problem. I even ran a modified smaller roadrunner code twice in the same aluminum plate to see if it would be repeatable. The next day I was cutting the roadrunner on some new scrap pieces of ½ Plexiglas to see how fine a line I could get. I cut around 4 them and then the motors sounded weird and the endmill went deep into the Plexiglas. When jogging the motors every resolution there was a knocking sound in each stepper motor and not understanding steppers I thought I had bad steppers.
At this point I need to stop and thank Bob Campbell for his help with a problem I had with the X motor step and direction which was resolved by using the A motor pin assignments to Mach. I had also asked Bob if he sold stepper motors because I thought mine were bad. I then told him about the knock I had in my motors but after I said that even at a faster jog speed, the knock remained the constant at around 3 seconds. Bob told me it was a frequency spike that was causing the knocking sound.
I didn’t know what I did to change the computer to cause the spike until I saw the green battery light blinking every 3-seconds. I remembered I had disconnected the AC charger from the T30 to use a spotlight on the back of the mill when reinstalling the screws for the back panel. After I was done with that I repluged in the AC cord and then is when the milling changed.
There are three staged charging for the ThinkPad. 1st is a constant yellow light for most of the battery recharge. 2nd is a green blinking light to indicate a trickle charge to top off the battery. 3rd is fully charged and the charging system is off. The trickle charging system was my 3-second spike. I ran the roadrunner code 7 times on the same piece of Plexiglas with no deviation to the cut lines AFTER the battery was fully charged.
Below are pictures of the Mach 3 running on my T30, control box, mill and Roadrunners.
Here is a movie on YouTube too
Frank
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Frank,

The machine looks great and very nice job on the control box. Please tell me more about the digital readout on the spindle and also are you controlling the spindle speed under software control or manually? Love to see your final wiring diagrams if you done them in electronic form! I haven't started on my new control box for my TMC1000 due to time constraints and many projects but sooner or later I will want that 4th axis so it will happen. I actually have all the parts here and just need to get around to assembling and wiring them up. I did however just win an auction for a small 5 by 12 CNC lathe on ebay and since it will require a new controller in order to work I suspect that one will happen first!! Here's a few pics of the new toy:


cheerio

Gerald

Hi Gerald
The variable speed control of the 1 hp DC motor is controlled manually by the knob next to the E-stop button. Pushing in the E-stop button will turn off the spindle speed from a different wire leads than on the wiring diagram.
The digital readout was bought from http://www.mkctools.com/tachoptions.htm for $59.95. I made the enclosure from aluminum and mounted the sensor below the spindle motor pulley.
The wiring diagram and AC power layout below is for my TMC 1000 and may be different from yours. Use at your own risk.
Frank

Looks very very good Frank!

Thanks for the link to the TACH supplier, I may try one of those myself. I wonder if you might post a picture or 2 of the mounting of the tach sensor. I have played around with a tach with magnetic pick-up on my machine but as yet have only set it up on a temp arrangement to calibrate the knob so I know what the no load speed is for any given setting on the knob and have made a chart of this. At some point I would like to have software control of the spindle speed(and direction) on both the mill and the upcoming lathe project but that is aways away for sure! I see you have used a CAMPBELL breakout board, are you totally pleased with this arrangement? I have a very simple BOB that works ok but I have been considering something a little more sophisticated once I assemble the permanent controller. I wonder what is the type of steppers you used and what current setting you run them at?

cheers
Gerald

To take that picture I would have to remove the spindle motor again, sorry but not again. The tach setup is easy and with a tach I just turn the knob and look at the readout no calibration needed.
I an very pleased with my Campbell Breakout board.
The inputs and outputs are optical-isolated
Isolated 5v and ground from the computer parallel port
If the output voltage of the laptop is lower then 5v the breakout board will compensate.
My power supply the gecko's is 50v. The steppers not original (double shafted) and are 3A. There is formula for the gecko to get the right voltage to the steppers. I can’t find it but I had bought 33k-olm resistors when I had it.
Frank

No Problem Frank,

I had my spindle off awhile back when I I snapped a belt so I know about the process. Can you tell me if the sensor is optical or mechanical? What was attached to the spindle for the sensor to sense? I see on the TACH website thay also have a motorcontroller with a built in TACH that looks kinda neat. I have sent off a few questions to them regarding that.

Yes the optical isolation is what I am after in a new BOB, better safe than sorry for sure. I also like the way yuo did the double shaft motors for a bit of manual control when necessary. I have this arrangement on my CNC router and find it faster than jogging to get me very close and than use the jog to be spot on!

Gerald

The sensor is optical and all it needs is the shaft it's reading to be 1/2 shinny and 1/2 flat black.
Frank

frank, i see you areusing a bob camble breakout board. i just purchased on of these and when i hooked it up the axis do not switch directions regardles of the jog keys pressed.
i have onlythe 110 volt to theboard and the step and dir and common wires hooked to the geckos. i am not getting any dir signal from the breakout board. my pin assignments on mach 3 appear coorect. by the way, my smaller breakout board (10$)works fine. im stumped.

dan

Dan,

I would recommend you double check the BOB CAMPBELL BOB PCB documentation regarding your pin assignments. I suspect you may find a discrepancy. I had a very similar problem when I transitioned from a Plain XYLOTEX pcb to the same XYLOTEX driven off of the Campbell PCB. The pin config in MACH had to be changed. You must PAY VERY CLOSE attention reading the info or is easy easy for your eyes into tricking you into thinking something is correct when it isn't

I believe mine is set-up:
X Axis: step PIN 2 dir PIN 6
y Axis: step PIN 3 dir PIN 7
Z Axis: step PIN 4 dir PIN 8

You will notice the PIN number differrence from the Step to Dir! this varies from the stock XYLOTEX setup where X is 2&3 Y is 3&4 and Z is 5&6!

Good luck

Gerald:cheers:

thanks gerald, those were the same as i was using. i talked to bob cambel and he verified those as correct. just for kicks i loaded mach 2 and the board worked fine.i looked at the pin asignments and they were x step 2 dir 3, y step 4 dir 5, z step 6 dir 7. iused these in mach 3 and now everything works great. strange though as i used the pin asignments from his pdf manual. i let him know . anyway now thatthe machine works i want to start thinking about limit switches and home switches.