This is a pretty simple question, but I am used to steel and aluminum
is a bit new.

I have to cut a bunch of bar stock to close tolerances (.1") and with
steel I just use my slow speed chop saw but that gums up with the
aluminum. Hack saw is too slow, I think a band saw would do well
but I don't want to invest in that just for these one project.

What does everyone else use to trim the thicker pieces of aluminum
to size?

Are you using a blade for non-ferrous stuff (tripple chip grind)? If you getting aluminum smear then you'll need some lubricant. I use a dry lubricant on my bandsaw and don't have any problems cutting 3/4 inch Jig Plate. I cut the smaller lengths on my table saw using a sled and the non-ferrous blade.

At home, I just use wax (like a candle) as the lube on chop saw, table saw or the band saw. :cheers:

Perhaps I should have checked my manual first, but after reading that a chop saw should do well on aluminum I checked and found that my carbide tipped blade should not be used for cutting aluminum. Guess I should go see if I can get the right sort of blade, use that in the chop saw with a little candle wax.

We use parafin oil appied with a small brush, but don't smoke near it.

I had to order my blade from Woodworker's Supply, Home Depot and Lowes did not carry it. I use a dry bore lube for the bandsaw.

050813-1400 EST USA

We use a 12" carbide blade at about 3500 rpm with a little mist of Tapmagic for aluminum. Really good for cutting, or tapping aluminum.

For cutting plate we use a hand "Skil" saw.

For simple cuts use an acid brush to dab some Tapmagic on the blade and material. For high volume heavy cuts you need drip or mist and ventilation. Otherwise enclose the system and use regular coolant.

We have in the past cut a 6061 extrusion into small pieces ( 1.25" long ) at a rate of about 6 sec per part with the cutting time about 1 sec. Actual peak horsepower load about 7 and total cross section area about 3/4 sq-in. The cross section shape determined horsepower load, and/or cut time. The extrusions were of various shapes. These parts were drilled and tapped 1/4-20 at the same time and total production was about 1/2 to a million per year.

(edit) The point is you can go thru aluminum fast with speed and horsepower. Your "Skil" saw might be risky for 1/2 by 4, but if both sides of cut are clamped it might work. On the high volume job length was typically within .005".(end edit)

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Just last weekend, I purchased one of the Ridgid worm-gear circular saws to cut some 1/2" aluminum plate. I used the carbide-tipped blade that came with the saw. I cut at least 40' of 1/2" aluminum plate in less than 20 minutes; and that includes marking all the lengths and snapping lines on the plate. I initially tried to cut it with my Craftsman direct-drive circular with no luck. The worm-gear saws have some serious torque!! It gave me a good reason to purchase a new tool. It cut the plate like a piece of paneling, and didn't even grunt.

It cut the plate like a piece of paneling, and didn't even grunt.

wait until you use it on a 2x4! once you use a worm drive, you'll never willing use a regular circular saw again :D

When you're cutting thick aluminum (1/2" +) on a sliding compound mitre saw the saw has a tendency to want to climb up and over the part. This can be very dangerous, and can really do some damage to the saw itself.

To avoid this first pull the saw out all the way, then slide the stock in behind the blade and cut the part by pushing the saw into the part, against the backstop. This gives you full control over the saw and will keep it from running away from you.

When you're cutting thick aluminum (1/2" +) on a sliding compound mitre saw the saw has a tendency to want to climb up and over the part. This can be very dangerous, and can really do some damage to the saw itself.

To avoid this first pull the saw out all the way, then slide the stock in behind the blade and cut the part by pushing the saw into the part, against the backstop. This gives you full control over the saw and will keep it from running away from you.

Make sure you use a blade with a negative hook angle. It will keep the blade from grabbing and pulling itself in.

KSky -

Take a look at this thread - this guys is now a believer in accurate, smooth cuts with regular saws using the correct blade - the secret is in the blade selection:

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11232

Scott