I have finished my second router. Its cheap yet a big improvement over my first one. Much more rigid and accurate. Used 8020 and thier bearings, 1/2-13 threaded rod, delrin nuts. Have the dust collection finished as well, but still need to take pics.

Rapids are conservatively at 35 ipm - cutting mdf at 25 IPM (.125 D.O.C) very well. 24 x 36 cut area.

Some pics below

It looks great Hack

Very nice router you have Hack.

I have been living on the 8020 and Faztek web sites for the last two months putting together different ideas, but was always put off, as I did not think their bearings would work on a Router as you have done. Since yours turned out so nice, it looks like it will be a go for me to put in an order for the parts.

Did you order all the parts pre-cut? If not what did you use to cut the lenghts you required?


If you don’t mind would you post the dimensions of the 8020 you used?

No I cut all of the extrusions myself using a miter saw and an 80 tooth carbide blade. Cuts nice. Then I tapped the ends where I needed. All extrusions a 1530

A word about the 8020 setup - If you are looking for very high degree of accuracy do not use this system. For normal wood router, i feel this system is more than sufficiently accurate. I am a cabinetmaker by trade, and am used to doing close tolerance work, and this is quite accurate for those purposes. One of these days I am gonna get a little more gutsy and try some cuts in aluminum. I feel this may be stiff enough to get by with the right bits, speeds and feeds. Not sure though.

I have also noticed a little extra drag using these bearings compared to roller bearings, so you may wan to condiser slightly larger motors to compensate. I am using 276 oz with xylotex board, 24v power supply and 1/4 microstepping.

If you have any moer questins, please feel free to ask.

Dan

Be sure to check out 8020 on ebay as they have a store there and if your patient you can easily save 25-40% on the extrusions and bearings.

Thats a good basic design, nicely done. It would scale up readily to a larger machine. Thank you for the ideas.

Thats the nice thing about the extrusions......just order them how ever long you want. Also the 1530 are situated so that they can span quite a distance without sagging.

I recommend checking out 8020's defelction calculator (free) before enlarging to much.

One thing that I do like about this design is the stiffness of the z axis. I think one could build this a get quite a bit of Z clearance to do some good 3D work if they wanted.

Hack,

I love your machine! I bought two 10' lengths of the 1515, each with one bearing. Got it off the 8020 surplus store on eBay at a reasonable price. If I grab a single bearing and torque it hard by hand, I can just detect the slightest movement.

A lot of people have asked if these bearings are suitable for use in a machine: the usual answer is "NO" because of the looser fit.

BUT if a wider piece of extrusion were used (like your Y axis) AND multiple slides were used (again, like you've done) this should mostly go away. I suppose a clever person might even find a way to spring load one slide against another to "preload" the assembly, much like is done with double nuts on ball or lead screw assemblies.

Your machine can go a long way towards dispelling the notion that the 80-20 bearings aren't suitable for a CNC machine. Can you give us any idea of the accuracy you get when cutting your MDF pieces? I suppose other machines that are lightly loaded would be good candidates as well. Plasma, flame, and laser cutters come to mind. Foam cutting rigs too.

Oh, do you apply any extra lubrication to the delrin, or do you run it dry?

Evodyne :eek:

Yes I apply a little spray lube to the delrin nuts. I honestly dont know if it helps or not, but certainly doesn't hurt. I have also found that if you apply a dry lubricant to the bearings, it does help quite a bit.

As far as accuracy goes, I haven't really measured it really close. I just know that when I cut a peice at 30", it comes out 30". The machine is more accurate than my tape measure. I'm sure that if I got out the calipers, I might find some varience, but this is woodworking. I have cut quite a few holes in melamine that needed to line up with the bearings, etc and they all work. Up to 16 holes per peice, no alignment issues.

The material itself will move more than the router will be off. I think that is one of the biggest concepts that people need to remember. Wood and wood products will have a tendency to expand and contract quite a bit, so how exact does a machine have to be?

Again, for example, if I cut a 30" piece, it seems to come out 30"

hello.
how much would a machine like this cost to build,
including motors, electronics , the works ??
not counting time , thank you

All new materials, less than 1300.00

I built mine for about 975.

That includes motors, controller, everything except trim router and computer. Already had them. I was able to find some decent deals on 8020's ebay store for the extrusions, but everthing else is new.

I don't know if this is the proper place to mention this, but i am planning on selling plans for this router soon. Probably within 2-3 days they will be ready. Just double checking them and making sure all part number etc are correct. I will also be offering all the melamine pre-cut and drilled except for the table top itself. It is just a straight cut and would be to big to ship with the other parts. If you order all of the extrusions machined from 8020, all a person would have to do is fab the delrin nuts, bolt it all together and wire it. Again, for the price, I think it is a very easy router to build, and could really be built in stages if someone doesn't have all the money at once.

thank you very much for sharing the cost with myself ( and others, i am sure )
a great idea to sell plans and a precut kit,
best of luck in your venture

Thanks for the suggestion on checking Ebay on the surplus store. I just picked up 3 of the 1530 x 68. Going this route will cost more than I was expecting but knowing my woodworking skills this will save me money and frustration in the long run.
I'm toying with the idea of using 8020 for everythning except the bed and maybe part of the Z axis.
Thanks again for the tips.

I tried your Web Site but keep geting "Sorry, this site is temporarily unavailable!"
Larry

I just tried it and it seems to be working fine. Please check again. If the problem remains, please let me know and I will look into it further. Thank you

Well I tried routing a little aluminum this morning. I was quite pleased with the results. Keep in mind this is just a quick test using a router bit not an end mill. D.O.C. was only .02" and speed was slow jog - whatever speed that was.

Also enclosed a pic of the dust collection attachment that I made. Works pretty good, but will have to trim the brushes a little as the are about 1/2" to long. Much nicer than breathing all that dust though. Lot less clean up as well

I'd leave the brushes long. The longer they are, the better seal you should get.

Hack

Received your plans yesterday. Thanks for the quick shipment.

I like the way you did the description and “how it should look pictures” for each of the major components followed up by the CAD drawings.
Just giving them a quick run through I noticed where I would have taken the “longer road” and made it complicated whereas your solution will work much better. Before I even start (some parts on order) I can tell I will be saving more money that I spent on the plans. (Most likely)
Putting them in a notebook binder was a nice touch that I was not expecting.
Thanks
George

Thanks for the feedback on the plans. I greatly apreciate it.

One of the biggest things I tried to do was to stay away from expensive machining issues. No sending lead screws out to have them machine was the biggest. Using MDF and aluminum Tslots helps as well. A person should be able to do all of the work at home with some basic tools. I can't see spending more on tools to build the thing than the machine costs itself.

If I can be of further assistance, let me know.

Hack

Hack
I hate to be so cheap(fixed income), but would you consider a trade for your plans. I've got a couple of VEXPA stepping motors 6VDC .8A 2-phase 1.8deg/step model#PX244-02AA-C4. I've got a simple x-y manual table setup. I'm working with 1/4" and less styrene and 3/16" acrylic and plesi-glas using the variable speed dremel. It is the type that has a splined coupling between the motor and the out shaft which has a bearing mounted on each end and adds to the precision a great deal. This is the first I've seen like this. It is a model 395 type 2.

what kind of stepper motors do you used with this machine ? The reason I am asking cause I plan to build one similiar to your and not sure those motor from Nema23 269 oz.in. Double Stack/Double Shaft Bipolar Stepper Motor
will be able to handle moving that much of weight.
I am new to this and assume that the more oz.in the more weight it handle, is that correct ?

Hack,

I am new to the site and new to CNC machines. I am an importer of burl, which I sell on the internet (through my web site). I really like the look of your machine.

I am looking for something that can handle a burl slab up to 5' x 8' x 6" and flatten it for use in table tops. I have been surfing quite a bit and cannot get much helpful information (which this site definately has). So, I know what I don't know, which is how to build a CNC Router. Would you be willing to modify your plans and either offer a kit, or the assembled machine that could handle what I am trying to accomplish. I think that we would need a larger spindle, and probably a sturdier bed, etc. I do not need a tool for full time use as I might receive 20 slabs every few months.

Interested? If so, please contact me off-line Ltannen@bellsouth.net.

Of course, any other advice any of you can offer to get me more educated would be welcome.

Thanks.

- lee -

I'm also new to the sight so please bear with me. I have several different types of steppers. As i mentioned the Vexpa 6VDC .8A 1.8 deg/step. I have several of these which have 6 leads. I have a 8-lead gear reducer type (35RPM) ans I also have a 24 V VEXPA 1.8deg./step. I'll have to get all this out of my storage to make sure of everything. I'm only doing styrene, plesi-glass and acrylic up to 3/8" thick and have not gone full CNC yet. Presently I have q manual x-y table and set z-axis with the Dremel router attachment. Sounds like a very interesting project. Sorry for the late reply, I had a short bout with a UTI (urinary tract infection

Looks like a very rigid setup. PLease let us know how it performs when you get the chance to do some really heavy cutting.

Steven

With regard to the slack in the bearings, 8020 also sells shims, the trade of being rigidity = more energy to move.

Tweet, - Thanks for the offer, but no thanks.

Lee-tree - my router would not scale to the 5' x 8' size that you are requesting. The extrusions would not span that far without flexing and the lead screws would whip quite badly at that span. It would be quite a bit of re-engineering to build a table that size. It could be done obviously, but my plans are not necessaritly a starting point for a table that size.

Biker, I use a 270 oz/in motor on all three axis with the xylotex board. Works just fine!

sdantonio - setup seems to work well. I wish I had a variable speed router though as the laminate trimmer rpm is to fast for the speeds at with the router moves at. You have to be careful or you will burn bits. Also, straight plunge cuts are tough, so I just be sure to ramp in/out. Keep in mind this was in red oak. Particleboard, etc work good, and I was plunging at 22 ipm - probably to fast anyways.

What type of computer are you running? Power speed? Also what software and controllers do you guys recommend.

Where can a person download some cad files for wood trim ideas and hardware and stuff?

I am a newbie to this.

What type of computer are you running? Power speed? Also what software and controllers do you guys recommend.

Where can a person download some cad files for wood trim ideas and hardware and stuff?

I am a newbie to this.

It's a good idea to start a new thread with your questions, rather than asking in someone else's existing thread. You'll usually get much better responses.

Most people here use either TurboCNC, which runs in DOS, with as little as a 486-DX2, or Mach3 which need XP or Win2K, and at least a 750Mhz PC (1Ghz recommended, but some people get away with 500's)

Hack,
Just downloaded the plans. Nice work. I will keep you posted as I will be following them pretty close. One question I have is how did you couple the motors to the screws?

I attached the motors to the screws with couplers - specifically called oldham couplers from Mcmaster Carr. The come in different sizes an allow you to adapt the 1/4" motor shaft to the 1/2" screw.

Dan

Well, I've been looking for some time now for a first build. I just ordered the plans today and I'm looking forward to collecting parts and building. If all goes well, I'll post some pictures.
Wally

I think I read somewhere that you used a Porter-Cable laminate trimmer. Would a variable speed router be better, and if so, what make and model would you suggest to use?
Thanks, Wally

Not sure if I should be posting in Hack’s thread, but… I bought a PC laminate trimmer years ago (to trim laminate, imagine that), but I don’t like it very much. It is small but expensive (around $100). It is single speed, 1/4” collet, loud, and I found that bits got jammed in the collet resulting in lots of swear words. For about the same price you can get a 2hp+ variable speed router with 1/2" quick release collet. It will be a larger beast to mount, but I think it is a no-brainer. Hitachi has one that several people are using here for sub $100 (sold at home depot). I bought a 1617EVS Bosch and really like it, you can get it as a motor only or a factory reconditioned to save money. Check eBay and google.

Steve

Thank you for the router suggestion spalm. Another question, can 3/4 baltic plywood be used in place of the MDF? Also, I should be able to shorten the x and y axis by one or two inches without any problem?
Thanks, Wally

I personally would like to have a variable speed router on mine, but haven't done so. The laminate trimmer has a tendency to burn the wood due to its high rpm and the machines relatively slow cut speed. Just try to not get to heavy of a router.

Baltic birch will work, but is a bit more expensive.

Dan

Thank you Dan, the Baltic birch was left over from another project. I'm still trying to learn about the 8020. When I look on ebay I see the word lite used with some of the 1530 rails, is this ok for the rails or is there another descriptor that I should be looking for?
thanks again, Wally

Unfortunately I cannot answer your question. I have not used the Lite version, however I do know that it is thinner walled and not as heavy duty. Would ealily work for the Z Axis, but may cause some deflection on the longer x & y axis. Can't say.

Dan

The lite sucks. I had a few pieces of it laying around. It is lite, it would be OK for the z axis, but it does deflect a bit. Be careful if you build your own bearings, make sure you use a vix bit to drill the pilot holes for the screws, if the holes are not perfect, they will bind up the slides resulting in a whole lot of drag. I am going to post a list of little things that you should be careful of when building this plan. It is a very good plan, but I have made a few mods. FOr instance, make sure you are very, very accurate with your holes for the z axis rails. if they are not perfectly parallel, it will bind up the bearings.

Also enclosed a pic of the dust collection attachment that I made. Works pretty good, but will have to trim the brushes a little as the are about 1/2" to long. Much nicer than breathing all that dust though. Lot less clean up as well

Where did you get those brushes? everywhere I ask says they are no longer made.. any suggestions on where to buy some?

Eddie

Thanks bryanrabb for your comments. I'm going to collect some parts and wait for your post on mods. Did you make any changes to the mfd parts? If not, I could start cutting and drilling.
Wally

I didn't make any changes to the MDF, yet. I may still. My mods are as follows:
1) Rotate the x-axis rails 90 degrees because I had the wrong bearings. This actually works out well.
2) I don't think I am going to use the mdf x-axis plate. I am planning on using two delran blocks that are tapped. Each mounted on a piece of alum angle. One will be placed on each rail. This may turn out to really suck, and then I will use the mdf. I can't really say why, but it seems with two blocks, it it a tighter fit. It may actually bind a little, causing it to suck further. Most of my mods come from my ADD. That causes me to work way too fast and screw things up, and then I just try to work around my screw ups.

I will say this, make sure your holes are drilled accurately! Or at least oversize one per extrusion. That way you can square and parallel them. Also, I clamped my endplates together before drilling. That way they line up perfectly. (well not perfectly, but better than if I had done otherwise.)

hey hack
just a idea for your trimmer could you not get a dimmer switch
and try that on the trimmer it would be manual speed control
but most of them will handle enough current I think

hmm or you could do a few set speeds with a scr and few resitors and transisotrs and a couple of up puts from your controller providing it has them

Hack -
Are you still using the 8020 bearings? If so, how are they holding up after long term use?

Thanks

Sorry, but I sold this router about a year ago, before any long term tests could be run.

Dan

Thanks

I keep getting lost in dead-end links. Including the one in Hack's profile. :confused:

Hack, please provide a pointer to where I can see your plans?

Thanks!

Steve in NM.

There seem to be a bunch of different 8020 linear bearings. Some are supposedly rated for "quick starts", there are some that have little wheels, etc.

Which bearings did you use?

I have been trying to post the plans for this router on the site, but have been unsuccessfull. It is about a 2.6mb PDF file. Any suggestions. Like to make these available free of charge to everyone.

Dan

Maybe use winzip or make it multiple PDF documents?

I would greatly appreciate if you could share the plans.

well if you could possibly email me the plans i would appreciate it.( be willing to email them to others when contacted) so the pressure isnt all on you. we could even list the people who have the file for others to pass it around, if you wanted. I like the idea of the mix of 80/20 and the Mdf.. or if they get posted up here or somwhere i will download them thakns. Chris

I am using 8020 for the frame of my router. On my Z-axis I am using 8020 bearings but not on my X & Y axis.

I would be willing to post the plans for download on my site http://studysession.com and post a link here in the thread if you want?

I am using 8020 for the frame of my router. On my Z-axis I am using 8020 bearings but not on my X & Y axis.

I would be willing to post the plans for download on my site http://studysession.com and post a link here in the thread if you want?

PLEASE EMAIL IT TO ME s1lisboa@yahoo.com

PLEASE EMAIL IT TO ME s1lisboa@yahoo.com

I am not the one with the plans. I was offering to host them for download since the file was to big to post here.

Cheers -

I would like to see the plans hosted somewhere, so I would be willing to take you up on the offer. Also, if anyone else is willing to as well that would be nice. Send me an email address.

Dan

ya keep us updated if they get posted if you can guys..

Here you go:
http://studysession.com/cnc/8020-CNCRoutercad.pdf

These are Hack's plans to the router he built for all to download.
Let me know if you all have trouble with the link.

Thank's Hack for sharing them.

cool thanks Hack and study session for the plans and the uploading :)

"The file is damaged and could not be repaired."

Anyone else?

I re-uploaded it. it works now.

Enjoy.

Hack those plans are very detailed very well layed out and thourough.
Thank you very much for sharing these plans. I will prob start ordering material tonite or tomarrow. Keep everyone posted...

Thanks for sharing this Hack, these plans will be very helpfull.

Thanks, Keith. Got the plans.

And Thanks, Hack. Excellent work! Will you be sharing the kit price publicly? Or do you prefer that we email you?

Steve in soggy NM.

Hack,

Beautiful plans!! To people selling plans, TAKE NOTE. I believe anybody could confidently follow those plans and not get lost.

So, what kind of kit are you planning on selling? Are you planning to package all the 8020 components and re-sell them?

Just buy the parts from here:
http://stores.ebay.com/8020-Inc-Garage-Sale

That's where I get my stuff anyway.

Just buy the parts from here:
http://stores.ebay.com/8020-Inc-Garage-Sale

That's where I get my stuff anyway.

Yeah, that's what I was thinking. But I gather Hack plans on selling a kit. I'm not sure what would be in the kit since you can pretty much get everything from 8020 surplus. However, since he gave away the plans, I might be tempted to buy a kit from him just to spread the joy and encourage the development of great plans like this. In any case, just wondering what the kit would be.

Hack - Are you still sharing/selling your plans? Copy me please:
chainplates < at > hotmail.com Thanks.
< at > =@ Natch!

:cheers: Jim

Here you go:
http://studysession.com/cnc/8020-CNCRoutercad.pdf

These are Hack's plans to the router he built for all to download.
Let me know if you all have trouble with the link.

Thank's Hack for sharing them.

We posted his plans here....

Hack was selling the plans when the thread was started(look at the dates i think it was over a year ago..) then nothing happened with the thread.
i assume since its old news he decided to just give to CNCzone the plans, for us to all look at, build, or dream about.
I have already purchased all the neccessary stuff from 8020 surplus on ebay.
I have to say they have excellent service and are very responsive to emails and questions. A special thanks goes out to Mark meyer at 80/20 surplus.
yesterday i went to Home depot and bought the Hardware for the build.

Hack
One? they didnt have 5/16 1-1/4 bolts (i bought 1 -1/2)
are there any places in particular that need the 1-1/4?
seems most are use where tapping into the 80/20 ends (so i could just tap more)
Again thakns Hack for the plans.
I am going to have to start my own build thread i think....

I appreciate the kind words that all have given me about the plans. When I designed these, ease of build was my main concern. I feel I accomplished that. I gave these plans to CNC Zone as I really don't have as much time as I needed to preperly support them with all the questions people have, and I feel if someone pays for something it should come with support.

I don't recall, but it doesn't seem as though the longer bolts will not be an issue. And if it does, hardware is pretty cheap to replace if needed.

I do have a couple of old kits (wood parts only minus router mount) if someone is interested - contact me offline. Use to sell the wood kits for 125.00 a set, but will part with them for $50.00 a set just to get rid of them.

I had originally planned to sell complet kits and or machines, but didn't persue it when I started my current job (work about 60 hours a week). I would be glad to help others with this project though.

Enjoy.

Dan

Hack -
Great job and we all appreciate you sharing the plans. Thanks

Started my Build Log
Dan ill be in touch via PM You Have PM
Chris
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=275988#post275988

I would like to see the plans hosted somewhere, so I would be willing to take you up on the offer. Also, if anyone else is willing to as well that would be nice. Send me an email address.

Dan

Are you still wanting someone to host the plans - because I can do that for you on my website www.uk-guitarshop.co.uk

Cheers

Tony

Here you go:
http://studysession.com/cnc/8020-CNCRoutercad.pdf

These are Hack's plans to the router he built for all to download.
Let me know if you all have trouble with the link.

Thank's Hack for sharing them.

he already posted them....
I have been delayed on my build by having to buy a new vehicle and now its spring so theres projects to do outside :(

I have built a similar machine, but a bit smaller. 10" x 12" cutting area. I had never been to this site & when I saw yours & read the thread I realized I ran into alot of the same problems you did. I was just wondering whic motors & controller you used?

You specify parts to be made of 3/4" Melamine (for example, P/N 2436-02-01)

I this 3/4" HDF with a Melamine veneer? Or a solid block?

Thanks.