Well, Its time to start my log on the long and windy road of building a CNC Router.

It started like this:

http://peu.net/mods/router6.jpg


but after reading a lot, and I mean a LOOOT of logs here I decided to change to rails and aluminium extrusions.


It will be a fixed Y axis bridge (not as the previous picture), moving X & Z type router

My main problem with everything is that I live in Buenos Aires/Argentina.

Why a problem? you may ask, for example I purchased in USA the following items: thk rails, steppers, drivers, breakout boxes and these things are heavy so postage and customs add to the final cost...


On top of the extra costs, the typical 8020.net extrusions (or similar) are not available here, the only one I found are Bosch Rexroth ones, but with some disadvantages, they are pricey, and they cut to size BUT with a common carbide blade, not the straight & precise cuts that are available in USA.


My purchase logs is as follows:

8x THK SHS15C1SS 317.5mm long $327 (ebay)
3x Xylotex 269oz/in Steppers $162 (xylotex)
3x PMDX-150 driver boards & 1x PMDX-122 $282 (pmdx)
Shipping of these to Buenos Aires $160 (still need to know customs $)

2xNSK 8mm per turn ballscrew 440mm lenght (320mm usable)
1xNSK 8mm per turn ballscrew 224mm lenght (108mm usable)
3x Ballscrew's bearing blocks (Support block + Fixed block) + Nema 23 stepper motor mounting bracket
3x Couplings
$545 shipped to Buenos Aires (all these from Jimsonchan) (still need to know customs $)

Total to date: $1476

Still to go: Extrusions and some machined pieces.


Here is the drawing of the actual Y fixed bridge

http://peu.net/mods/router9.jpg

The different color at the end of the rails is because I want to use the full usable lenght of the ballscrew, so I will cut a rail and use the parts for extensions. Remember I only have 8 rails & 8 blocks.

The moving table will use 4 more blocks and the z axis will be supported by one rail/block and the leadscrew.


Today I have a meeting with the Rexroth salesman regarding extrusions, the prices I guess would not be cheap :(

If someone have prices for the 45x45H rails per meter and profile conectors, please let me know so I can compare and/or bargain :)


As you may figured it out, the working area will be around: 300x300x100mm


I hope this journey ends with a very nice & precise machine

Thanks for looking and of course, comments & sugestions are welcome!


Pablo

peu, You sure are building one heavy duty machine.
A couple of comments, just my opinion.

1. With the way that you are showing the Y fixed bridge, you aren't taking advantage of the aluminum extrusions. You should just mount the THK rails to the flat plate or figure out a way to use the extrusions and get rid of the plate. To me, it seems that you are just adding cost without gaining any benefit.

2. Notice how you aren't attaching anything to the end of the extrusions. Because of this, you don't need 100% perfect end cuts. Buy the extrusions in long lengths and cut yourself.

All in all it is a fine start.
Trent

Hi Trent,

I see your point regarding the plate, as you guessed I want to make the unit as solid as possible, so I can achieve the maximum available precision from the parts used, I added the plate to give rigidity to the bridge, so this way I avoid torsion, and as an added benefit it isolates the leadscrew from the debris generated by the machine.

Regarding the end of the extrusions I drawn it like that because I was told over the phone that the local Rexroth shop didn't have the proper saw to cut the extrusions, but yesterday afternoon I went to talk to them (B.Rexroth local branch) and they told me that if they can't locally, they order the parts cutted directly from Germany at no extra cost if necesary (or machine them after the cut with a mill here)

They gave me the full catalogs and tips on which conectors to use between extrusions , so as you may guess again, im back to the drawing :)

let me know what you think

The update to the log is that all the parts from the 1st post are on the mail already :)


Thanks


Pablo

It would be somewhat clearer if you kept the colors of your overall view consistent with the other views. Keep the plate, you'll need it the way you're using these...

Hi Viper,

I don't quite understand you colors comment, so I'll best guess it :) the 1st drawing is no more, so I started from scratch with the second one, so maybe that is the reason for different colors. BTW, I like to use different colors while building an assembly because it helps me to visualize all the used parts and the eventual overlaps.

After the visit to the Rexroth branch I decided to use the 40x40 profile instead of the 45x45 (yes redrawing again :) )

I have two questions:

1) If I sit the ballscrew supports and the rail on the same plane, the nut of the ballscrew is about 14mm higher than the top of the sliding block of the rail. What is the common practice to cover this gap? a machined piece of aluminium?

I want to keep the machining of custom parts to a minimum, thats why I ask :)


2)

Im trying to economize a block, is this arrangement a sound idea?
http://peu.net/mods/router11.jpg



By the way, I found this MARVELOUS site:
http://parts.web2cad.de/asp/PPOW_Entry.asp?language=GB
it gives 3D or 2D cad models of every major manufacturer parts, and yes, these include: Bosch Rexroth, THK, NSK, INA, IKO, and about a hundred more. AWESOME


Thanks


Pablo

Skip the extrusions altogether and just add a aluminum plate under the rails as needed to get ball screw past the Z axis plate. This will lower your moment arm and decrease the leaverage from the high riding Z axis. Secondly I don't think you want to use your screw as a supporting member just a drive member. You might want to add trucks under the other end of the Z axis plate

Pablo...you could also machine a grove on the bottom side of the top plate, or you could add spacers on top of the rail trucks...or do the opposite on the bottom plate as someone suggested.

Yes the colors are very helpful...have you done another of the overall system?

I don't like how you've cantilevered this last setup.....ballscrew nut is being asked to take 1/2 of the torque applied to that plate.....

What sort of accuracy are you shooting for?

Viper/DieGuy: I gave a second tough on the idea of saving a block as you suggested and you were right, its NOT a good idea to use the leadscrew as a support.

Viper: Well, to be honest at the moment I have five folders containing every rebuild from scratch, and my guess is I will have more :) I'm not a designer engineer so I need to see the parts and then figure out if they work or not :)

Regarding accuracy, I want the best possible with the parts I purchased, so this is the ideal:

8mm per turn ballscrew (zero backslash) + 200 steps p/turn stepper + 1/8 microstepping = 8mm / 200 / 8 = 0.005mm resolution

I will be more than happy if I get near 0.01mm resolution


Thanks


Pablo

Im anxious, parts are in local customs, tomorrow or wednesday I may have them :)

To Moderator, since this is not a wood router maybe its more appropiate to move it to the main section. Thanks


Pablo

Wood router refers to what it cuts not what it is made of.......

oops (chair)

Pablo

This is the power supply I will be using:

http://peu.net/mods/ps1.gif

How lucky you USA guys are sometimes, parts alone here are around $35, you can purchase a ready made switching supply for the same money shipped there... :(


Pablo

peu -

Just a quick comment - maybe others can chime in here -

I would stagger the gaps in the rails rather than lining them up as you've shown in your drawings. Aligned properly you may not be able to pick it up, but I have always been able to find the seams in longer rail assemblies just by feel - not looking at it - you can always feel a little something in the motion not matter what you do - especially if the rails were chamfered for individual sale from the manufacturer.

If not stagger, then place the seams maybe in the top of the travel - in an area you wouldn't be in for normal cutting. - - this might be the better way come to think of it, ya know?

Scott

Hi Scott, thanks for the suggestions. What do you think about filling the gaps with epoxy compound ?

EDIT: a friend that speaks native english explained me what you mean.



BTW, the postman made me happy today:

http://peu.net/mods/router12.jpg

Now I have to wait for the ballscrews :D they are coming from Singapore

I'm happy


Pablo

No - I would not fill the seams. You are going to have to put up with them.

Scott

Why is a bad idea to fill the seams?

Thanks


Pablo

I received the notification that my ballscrews w/supports and motor supports are in customs, can't wait till monday :) :) :)


Pablo

I got balls...screws :D

The package from JimsonChan (ebay: ballscrewpro (http://stores.ebay.com/JIMSONCHAN) ) arrived in perfect condition, packaging is great, prices are great and his service is EXCELLENT !!!

http://peu.net/mods/router13.jpg
2 x NSK 330mm usable 8mm per turn
1x NSK 105mm usable 8mm per turn

http://peu.net/mods/router14.jpg
motor mount & coupling detail

http://peu.net/mods/router15.jpg
ballscrew detail


Now that I have all the mechanical parts is drawing time!!!

Im super happy :)


Pablo

Why is a bad idea to fill the seams?

Thanks


Pablo

peu -

Sorry for the delay - I usually travel on the weekends. This weekend, I went to Maryland only to come home with a seperated shoulder, a broken rib and lots of bruises...ouch...please don't make me laugh, guys!

I can't say I have ever tried it but I would speculate that the filler could chip and contaminate the bearings. I don't know if I would take that risk. I am a big fan of epoxies for all kinds of odd things, but not for this. I would get the alignment perfect using a test indicator and call it done.

I like the progress report so far!!! Looks like you are off to a good start, peu. Keep it going!

Scott

I got transformer :)

I did this in the motor shop with the invaluable help of the owner:

took some resistive wire and protected it with ceramic rings just in case it gets too hot.

measured main voltage and it was at around 227-230V
measured one of the outputs (he put 4 derivations just in case) without load and it measured 21.4vac

applied the load and put a amperimeter in series, it measured 10A

then we removed the amperimeter and measured the voltage across the load and it was around 20.5vac. So around a 1vac drop when loaded.

After a minute the load wire was hot to the hand, so we removed it with a couple of pliers and called it a day

Total cost of rewiring the transformer: $13.50 (pesos 40)

Here is a pic:

http://peu.net/mods/router16.jpg

Quarter for size reference


:D

Pablo

I need feedback on this router: http://www.toolshopdirect.co.uk/ishop/982/shopscr3199.html

I can purchase it locally for $100 but I want to know if its up to the task for machining wood, plastics and aluminum.

Thanks


Pablo

I would suggest going with a router with at least a 2 hp. rating or better based on your description of what you are going to cut. Also trying to mount that router you are looking at may be a problem due to its shape. Try looking for one with a cylindrical shape (motor housing) like some of the Porter Cables. It could save you some time and headaches.

Attached is an update in Solidworks eDrawings format. Here is a pic of the drawing:

http://peu.net/mods/router17.jpg

Extrusions are 45x45mm

You may ask for the weird Y axis, is done like that because I only have 8 x THKrails and need to save one for the Z

As you can see if you followed this thread is that I discarded the joining rails idea.


Comments are welcome :)

Thanks


Pablo

What benefit do you get from using three rails on the Y axis as opposed to using 2?

ignatz....he basically reduces the torque arm....he would have used 4 rails, but as he stated..he has a fixed number of rails.

Thanks for the comments, here is a preliminary view of the Z axis, since I have only one rail left, I need to use the ballscrew as a support, Im trying to figure a different setup, but so far this is the best one :)

http://peu.net/mods/router18.jpg
http://peu.net/mods/router19.jpg

Also as you can see I added an extra support to the Y bridge.
I may reduce the height between the Y axis rails, there is no need to make it that high :)


attached is an updated edrawing

keep the comments coming !!! Thanks


Pablo

It seems to me that you would be better off mounting the Z-axis rail on the plate for the spindle and the carriage on the plate that attaches to the Y-axis. The way you have it shown, the Z-axis can never be lower than the plate that attaches to the Y-axis.

Then move the ballnut mounting up towards the top of the z-axis spindle plate.
The idea as I see it is to have as much clearance for x and y movement when the z-axis is up as is possible. In other words, the bottom of the Y-axis should not be lower than the bottom of the z-axis in its raised position.

The idea costs you nothing, take it for what it's worth. :)

Peace,
Alan

Hi Alan,

If I understood correctly your suggestion, you mean this:

right view
http://peu.net/mods/router20.jpg

left view
http://peu.net/mods/router21.jpg


attached is the new edrawing


Thanks


Pablo

Pablo,

That looks like what I was thinking.

Alan

Regarding Z axis I received a good piece of advice yesterday.

Speaking with a mechanical engineer he explained me that my Z axis rail is right at the rotational center of the torque. After a long chat trying to understand what he meant, he made a couple of simple drawings:

http://peu.net/mods/router23.jpghttp://peu.net/mods/router24.jpg

What he mean is: by adding an extra block on the top part of the Z movement you gain a lot of stiffness in the setup.

Baaaack to the drawing board :)


Pablo

Pablo,

Looking good. I would absolutely go with the extra block on the Z design. (From what I have seen with mine I think this is definately required).

I noticed your using aluminium extrusion. It's great stuff to work with !

If you can get the ends square you might be able to fix it together using a method I was shown at work.

For more details I posted here :-

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpost.php?p=64117&postcount=248

But basic concept is in this picture.

Cheers :)

Awesome stuff Pablo. I wish we had more of these "center of torque" type diagrams. That's something I'm interested in and have thought about quite a bit in my own design.

JR

Santiniuk: Yes I'm aware of that attachment method, and I'm still waiting a quote from a local provider (found another one besides rexroth) my concern with this method is that the cut must be perfectly square with the extrusion. Thas why im still designing for angles instead of bolts.

These will be used for the angled parts

JRoque: (gracias) I took me a while to understand the concept but after the drawings he explained me this way:

take a broom or any large stick, hold it with one extended arm and ask someone to try to bend it from your perpendicular holding position. As you may figure out, this is an easy task.

BUT, now use both arms holding the broom one at the top and the other at mid section or as far as you can from the other hand. Now the other person will have a hard time trying to bend your broom from your improved support.

As always an image is worth a 1000 words:

http://peu.net/mods/router25.jpg

Im only good at CAD drawings :D


Pablo

Actually the torque is counterclockwise also...just depends on which direction you are headed.

After about a week of drawing I think Im about to finish the design, I want to check everything but this seems to be the final version:

http://peu.net/mods/router30.jpg

Comments please, I need comments, possible failure points (if any) and more comments :)

Attached is an eDrawing of the router.

From the last version, I made the unit smaller by reducing the Y axis Bridge and X axis layout of the rails.

Only Custom machined parts: ballscrew nuts to table pieces, spindle/router support.

Rectangular aluminium sheets: All 3 axis bases, support for ballscrew supports on X and Y axis.

Need to do: ways dust covers.

Estimated weight by the CAD program: 43kg (94lbs)


Thanks


Pablo

IMHO I think you need another set of linear rails on your z-axis. It looks like the current design is relying on the stiffness of your lead screw to prevent twisting one the lone THK rail of the z-azis.

You're right, thats my boldest compromise in this design, because I only have 8 rails, can I live with it or it can damage the ballscrew ?

Second compromise is that Im only using 2 blocks for the Y bridge, but the loads are somewhat more balanced.

I think in the future will look for some longer rails, but in the meantime I need to deal with what I have, yesterday I asked a local THK dealer and they quoted $600 for a single shs15 rail... maybe some appear in ebay :)

Thanks


Pablo

Hey Pablo.

Not sure what you will be cutting but you certainly don't want to put any kind of radial load on the ballscrew. It might be able to take it for lighter stuff like PCBs but that's what the rails/blocks do. What size THK rails are those? You can find lots of smaller HSR type rails and blocks on eBay (easy for me to say that)

I can't tell from the last drawing but, do you still have two blocks on the top Y rail and one on the bottom? I assume that's because you only have 3. If so, I'd put the 2 blocks on the lower rail closer to where the action will be.

On the frame, won't the Z plate hit the Y column support? If so, trimming the plate a little might give you extra Y movements. Hard to tell from the graph. You might also want to replace the column supports with a couple of corner plates that you can hold on the outside of the frame. Depending on the size, these plates will have much more contact surface to the bottom frame and Y column.

If possible, I would attach the Z rails directly to the Y plate rather than through the aluminum extrusion. That's so your stress points (Y and Z rails) are as close together as possible. Put as close as the ballscrew will let you.

Dude, excellent work with Solidworks - keep it coming.

JR

peu, I disagree that you will have twisting problems with the Z axis. Those THK rails are amazingly rigid in all directions. I would move the spindle over so it sits in line with the rails. If this hampers your table coverage, I'd leave it just like it is.

You may get some racking on the Y frame. I've seem some people built similar designs and they say that cross bracing solves the problem.

As a compromise, you might think about 3 blocks and rails on the Y and 3 blocks and rails on the X.

Either way, I'm sure that this design will work just fine.
Trent

Pablo,

I personally would go back to the moving table like you had it in router3.zip.

Like JRoque said, "If possible, I would attach the Z rails directly to the Y plate rather than through the aluminum extrusion. That's so your stress points (Y and Z rails) are as close together as possible. Put as close as the ballscrew will let you." If you need a little extra separation between the two plates for the ballscrew, you could use some solid aluminum of the appropriate thickness to mount the bearings on. I also would advocate getting another rail for the z-axis (I'm no engineer but it just seems better to me).

Peace,
Alan

Thanks for the comments, here we go:

JRoque: the complete ballscrew assembly is high from its bottom, so if I put the rail in the base aligned with the ballscrew support bases I will need to put some spacers from the blocks to the table, thus inserting more custom parts and possibly more problems. The rails are caged balls THK SHS15mm. A more detailed view can be seen in the eDrawing file using the free SW edrawings viewer (from their site).

I may draw a new Z movement using this example: http://www.pro.com.sg/CNC-PARTS/Z-AXIS/z120/Z120.jpg

No it wont touch the frame, but I agree that from the pic it appears to.

I used that long Z extrusion to avoid the torque problem explained some posts back.

Thanks on the SW compliments :)

Buscht: I dont quite understand the term crossbracing (English is not my main language :) ) I agree these caged balls blocks are pretty stiff, but as Im not sure how stiff they are, I ask...
I tough of removing one rail from the X axis and have a kind of triangle support, but wasnt very convinced of the idea and I left four rails there.

acondit: will redraw the Z axis based on the previous link. What I don't like about that setup is that I will need to order more custom parts, I mean that setup requires 2 perfectly square solid parts of aluminium against the base, but I agree the width and stiffness if done properly will improve.

I plan to use the router to machine from aluminium/brass to wood/plastics.

And when I tought the drawing was final... baaack to drawing :)


Thanks for the comments, keep them coming.


Pablo

Here's a poor drawing of cross bracing. It would be on the back side of your gantry of course.

Now I understand :)

A backplate can do the same trick? Is difficult to make a cross with extrusions, maybe just one side of the cross is enough?

Thanks


Pablo

Pablo, here's the thread where Balsaman used cross bracing. They are not made out of extrusions. Yes, a back plate would do the same thing.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=646&page=12&pp=10
Trent

Wow, thats simple AND cheap. Thanks for the advice!


Pablo

I have time available today...

Here is the preliminary view of the new Z axis in the router, I need to adapt some lenghts due to various modifications and add the spindle, but before continuing, I want to read some feedback :)

http://peu.net/mods/router31.jpg

Attached new eDrawing


Thanks


Pablo

How are you going to attach the Y and X axis motor mounts. It looks like they are suspended in mid air.

Seu projeto trabalhará bem.

These are part of the adjustments I did nod made yet, if you look at the previous drawing you sill see them :)

BTW, I understand brazilian very well because I worked there for some years, but here we speak spanish ;) muchas gracias (muito obrigado)


Pablo

Sorry about that language mistake. A mental lapse on my part.
Hey, ?a que' heule?
It's my brain. (nuts)

So fellas... should I continue with this new Z axis design or go with the previous one?

I spoted a pair of long rails at ebay, already posted a phantom snipe on them, if I win, many of the problems are history... will see in a few days :)

Thanks


Pablo

The snipe worked :) at least I got one pair of this THK SHS15R 22 3/4"L rails w/4blocks (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=25290&item=7528939601&rd=1)

So Now I can design the unit without any of the previous compromises. Im happy :)


Pablo

Nice pick, Pablo. Those rails are the only was to go, IMHO.

What did you decide for the spindle? ER collet with your own design or ER extension? Did you find a place to do the cutting for you?

JR

Thanks J, these rails will release me of all the drawbacks in the design, I sniped for 2 pairs but was lucky enough to get one.

Regarding the spindle I will make my own, but to start I will use some router or a dremel, I need to build the machine to start learning and to avoid the eternal in construction syndrome :)

If I find a good deal on an collet extender I wont let it pass but these are expensive even at ebay...


Pablo

Not entirelly related, but I just received a set of 8 CDs form www.web2cad.com PowerPartsOnWeb, all the THK items are inside (and lots of other manufacturers) in full and simple models. This is an awesome resource, and best of all: free


Pablo

Rails are here :)

Now for the final design stage, back to drawing board

Pablo

After a couple of months attending life :D here I am again...

I need to know what is the standard method for joining the marked areas:

Face to Face
http://peu.net/mods/router33.jpg
(extreme to face already answered by SantiniUK)



Angled (45º) extreme to face
http://peu.net/mods/router34.jpg


Thanks in advance


Pablo

For the pieces at right angle to each other use some right angle brackets (braces) with screws and T-Nuts, in fact 80/20 has brackets for most of what you have circled. Check what they have before you start cutting.

I finally order the extrusions from http://www.micro.com.ar/

here is the frame ordered:

http://peu.net/mods/router35

From previous pics the changes are:

vertical support bars changed to 45x90mm form better lateral support
added two bars to the bottom frame
used bars with blind sides (90deg) to hold the rails, open bars left too little support for the 15mm thk rails.

I asked the technical dept guys and they suggested these connections:

http://peu.net/mods/router36
http://peu.net/mods/router37


They promised to have them ready by friday, Im counting minutes :D


Pablo

Hey Pablo, very nice! Got any plans for the first cut? My first cut was on my finger though I wanted to cut a PCB...

Later,
JR

Hi JR,

I still don't have the slightest clue about G-code :D:D:D

but Im a fast learner


baby steps, baby steps ... :D


Pablo

how much did the ballscrews cost?
what is cheap for you?
tnx

The price of the parts is detailed in the first post of this thread :)

have fun


Pablo

Update:

I finished the test bed power supply and driver board:

http://peu.net/mods/router39
http://peu.net/mods/router40
(30v - 10A - 51000uF there!)

and also won this auction: Honeywell Limit switches (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=7546658549)

I may have time today to test the steppers!!! im excited :D


Pablo

Its Aliveeee!! :D:D:D

at least the self test of the drivers moves the motor back and forth, now is time to learn mach2 :)

http://peu.net/mods/router41


Im happy :wee:


Pablo

All right! Feels good, doesn't it? Been following your progress-it's a nice build. Now just don't let out the smoke! :cheers:

Lance

Feels super great, and mach2 wasnt that difficult to configure, here is my 1st video of the motors humming with the included roadrunner G-Code

http://peu.net/mods/itsalive.avi (7.3mb quicktime)


Pablo

Ah the "bzzzz" song... my favorite. Hey Pablo, what's the voltage and amperage on that power supply? Are you limiting the inrush to all those capacitors or do you enjoy the spark when you first plug it in the morning?

JR

30v - 10A and its nice to see the sparks or the leds slowly diming after 30secs :D

What do you suggest to avoid it?

Now I have to wait til monday to play... maybe is time to learn some CAM or G-Code programming :)


Pablo

I need feedback on this die grinder:
http://www.cnczone.com/gallery/data/500/medium/METGE700.jpg
Manufacturer link (http://www.metabousa.com/metabo/us/us/produkte/diegrinders/710wattelectronicstraightgrinderge700_06303.html)

My my problem finding decent routers for my machine is there arent many here in Buenos Aires ... :(


Opinions welcome :)

Thanks


Pablo

Update:

Started building the frame:

http://peu.net/mods/router42

:)


Pablo

Hola Pablo, nice progress. About what to do for spark on the power supply, you can use an NTC which is a device that limits inrush current. It heats up and as it does, its resistance is reduced to let all (or most) of the current through. I hate to post this and not have a part number or link to point you to but I couldn't find my notes on how to determine the right size of the NTC. Anyone?

I hear you about the lack of good routers. It drove me nuts and to building my own spindle. While I'm happy with my ~8,000 RPM DC motor, I'd like to be able to run up to 25K RPM or so for wood and lighter load works. Of course, I also want 3 HP or more and low RPM to cut heavy. The grinder above looks good but I wonder how much axial load it can take.

JR

Hola Roque,
NTC no problem I google for it, thanks for the tip.

If you remember I drawn a spindle idea which I think may work, but seeing how long it takes here to do some stuff, I decided to buy a router/grinder and then decide what to do in the future.

I still need some feedback on the grinder from someone who is using it to know if its an acceptable tool or there are any No-no :)

At this very moment Im drilling holes for the THK rails on the supporting frames, I have almost all the structure assembled!

BTW, the whole structure cost was $330 for the cut to size, machined and joining elements, not a steal but not bad if you ask me, since I only need to do the little holes for the rails :)


Pablo

Frame is finished, minor details to go, but I think I can start putting the whole electronics in its cabinet next week :)

http://peu.net/mods/router43 http://peu.net/mods/router44
(bridge ballscrew not properly attached yet)


Pablo

Great work....guess you bought the ballscrews with the ends already machined?

yep, purchased 3 ballscrews with the motor mounds, supports and couplings from JimsonChan (Singapore) smooth transaction.


I still need feedback on the griiiindeeeeerrrr :D :drowning:


Pablo

Peu.

Take a look around the forum. You will see pictures of at least 3 people using that Grinder ;)

All I can say Is you won't be dissapointed. It's Very Good......

Cheers.

Santini: searched the whole forum for metabo and for grinder and found nil, any keyword that would make my search easier is welcome :)

I just finished the moving table, it moves very smooth:

http://peu.net/mods/router45
(thats a flashlight over the table, my other hobby (www.neoca.com.ar)

:banana:

Pablo

It wooorks :banana:, in 2 axis but it works:

look at the kludge:

http://peu.net/mods/router46

I made a quick hack to attach the ballscrews to the tables, not in the designed position, but at least this way I can test the XY axis.

Priority work to do: assemble the electronics in an enclosure.

Here are 2 short videos:

first plot: http://peu.net/mods/firstplot.avi
second plot: http://peu.net/mods/secondplot.avi

:banana:


Pablo

Alright! I guess we all do that first pen plot followed by a victory dance. When I did first plot, I held the pen with a rubber band to keep an even downward pressure. Hey, don't forget to sleep, eat and talk to the other carbon forms in your home....

Later,
JR

LOL,

Im safe, the router is at my office, at home I talk to my wife, my son and a bag of charcoal :D:D

I must start reading something about gcode... I must start reading something about gcode... I must start reading something about gcode... I must start reading something about gcode... I must start reading something about gcode... :D


Pablo

peu,

congrats !

I like the design.


Question: Whats the sound in the background (sounds like a siren?) :confused:

I thought you starting up a router for a second...

Carlo

cbass: the sound in the background are the motors microstepping and at low feed :)

Today I did my 1st measurement, here is the setup:

http://peu.net/mods/router47

and here is the video of the Y axis moving exactly one inch (I use mm, but indicator was purchased in USA :) )

http://peu.net/mods/y-axis-1inch.avi (6.7mb quicktime)

and this is the code that moved the bridge, feed is in mm/min:

f100
g00 x0 y0
g01 x0 y-25.4


results:

the indicator was short to the exact inch by only 5 divisions, thats 0.005in and then returned in a rapid to zero and indicator shown +3 divisions, so overall error back and forth was 0.008in.

One thing to consider is that the indicator is not magnetically attached to the table, so maybe it slightly moved, but I left it there so the measurement is relative to the router moving table and not absolute to the frame.

0.008inch is not bad right?


Thanks


Pablo

Hey Pablo,

0.008inch is not bad right?

Its not bad considering you're measuring against a piece of wood and the gauge is not firmly in place. Give your test another try and set the gauge base firmly and rest the plunger against the machine's metal frame. The gauge post might even be flexing a little so you want to keep the dial as close to the base as possible. Also, slow down the return to zero.

Later,
JR

Hola Julio,

hecho, hecho y hecho :) (done x3)

Adjusted the height of the indicator to the lowest possible, then added a piece of steel clamped to the frame and put the magnetic base over it.

Then I calibrated the axis using the mach3 wizard in the settings screen, and then added 0.04mm of backslash compensation.

Here is the new setup:

http://peu.net/mods/router48

And the new video: http://peu.net/mods/y-axis2.avi (5mb)

Now I need a better measuring instrument :D


EDIT: almost forgot, got this today:
http://peu.net/mods/router49



Pablo

oh now we're talking! Hey nice grinder, let us know how it works for you especially in terms of runout and power.

JR

Finished the layout of the control box, I hope it can be finished in the real world next week:

http://peu.net/mods/router50


Pablo

Hey Pablo, it looks nice. I don't think you'll need that many fans since you're not regulating. Don't forget to put the bridge in front of the fan. If you add an air filter behind (on the outside) the big fan, you can use positive airflow into the enclosed box which will work better at removing heat.

Later,
JR

The PMDX driver boards when used at 3A are recommended to be used with a fan, which BTW I already purchased, so... why not use them anyways :)

I plan to open both sides of the cover, so something like you suggested is going to be made.

Thanks


Pablo

Oh my bad. I read "control box" and thought power supply (only). Yes, no doubt you'll need venting on the drives. If the fan noise drive you crazy, look into a fan speed control or even a simple thermistor to spin them according to the need.

JR

I started building the temp Z axis, while I wait for some last minute quotes of my RFQ for it.

http://peu.net/mods/router51

Maybe before the weekend I can finally make my 1st routing :banana:


Pablo

almost there: I only need to do the attachment from movable z to the balscrew and the Z and some 1/4" or 1/8" mills, protect the ways from dust and Im ready to rock :banana:

http://peu.net/mods/router52

http://peu.net/mods/router53

This wooden Z is taller (taller=distance form bridge to moving base) than the designed one, this is because local wood shops wont cut less than 100mm :(


Pablo

Finally

:banana: :wee:

http://peu.net/mods/router54 http://peu.net/mods/router55

And the 3 axis moving short video: http://peu.net/mods/3axis.avi (quicktime 2.5 mb)

:banana: :wee:

I'm sooo tired, good thing is that I will enjoy a barbecue in two hours :D


Pablo

(barbecue was good :D)

Here is a DivX video (8mb) of the machine in action drawing a gcode file from Spalm excellent app Spirograph.

http://peu.net/mods/spiroplot.avi


Next week I will focus on covering the ways, so some chips can be done :)


Pablo
PS: free divx player: http://www.divx.com/divx/play/download/

:banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:

I could not help it and made a kludgy support, used a standard drill due to the lack of other proper tools and Im routing !!!

http://peu.net/mods/router57 http://peu.net/mods/router56


:wee::wee::wee::wee::wee::wee::wee::wee::wee::wee:


Pablo

You still got great results with the standard drill bit. Congrats, now go make a better looking support for your grinder.LOL

Jason

That beautiful machine with that @&^#% router! Stay off the ribs, it is affecting your thinking.

Congrats,
Steve

with my kludgy support I machined "proof of concept" grinder holders in wood/mdf, the MDF is not strong enouhg so I reinforced it everywhere with a lot of screws and clamps.

I think it will let me machine the aluminum ones next week :)

I love the fact that our routers are self improving machines...


http://peu.net/mods/router59 http://peu.net/mods/router58


Pablo

As long as it holds together long enough for the next step is all you need. In a couple of weeks you are going to look back at these pictures and smile.

Dang, this is going to be a sweet machine. I’m jealous.
Steve

Update:

Here is my 1st aluminum route, this is part of the metabo grinder support which I think will break sooner than later:

http://peu.net/mods/router61
http://peu.net/mods/router62

And here is a short video of the adventure: http://peu.net/mods/router63.avi


:wee:

Pablo

Hi,

I have few questions. Did you use coolant? From pictures it seems NO. What have been the parameters for routing AL? I mean feed rate, plunge rate, RPM, and what kind of bit have you used for?

Thank you,

Zoltan

Yeah man we want to know what endmill you used, speed, etc. BTW, the video link above didn't work for me. I think you meant: http://peu.net/mods/router63.avi

JR

Jorge: Yeah thanks for the correction, your link is OK. I also corrected it in my post.

Zoltan: Here is a pic of the mill I used:

http://peu.net/mods/router64

The one I used is the 1/8" (right) feed rate 500mm/min (about 20in/min) plunge rate 0.2mm, RPM around 10000.

Today I routed the other half of the support using the same mill and RPM but: 0.5mm plunge and 200mm/min

I cant go faster at this moment because the grinder support is weak, and Im driving the 3A motors at only 1A (limited on purpose)

In minutes I will try the 1/4" mill at 1mm plunge and test the feed rate.


Pablo

Wow 20 ipm! That's pretty good for an HSS endmill and your temp support. I can't make out the details from the pic but is that tool flat-ended or is it center cutting? What aluminum alloy is that you're cutting?

JR

Hola JR, I don't know the difference between the mills you asked me, this one looks flat.

Im in the middle of another alu cut, but this time using the 1/4" mill. The noise is driving me crazy :) now Im cutting at 150mm/min 0.5mm passes


Will post a pic tomorrow :)


Pablo

Pablo,

Nice work. So how are you holding down your work in post #97 & #99? Thanks.

Rance

Rance, if you look carefully at post 99 you will see a black screw in the middle, there were 4 there. Same technique because was the same part in different material in the other post.

Here is the work Im actually cutting:

http://peu.net/mods/router66
(this is one is the half of the top grinder support)

in this one I used only one screw in the middle and two supports on the sides.

Before starting routing I didn't know how important fixing a part to the table is... almost as difficult as a nice routing.


Here is a small video of it: http://peu.net/mods/router65.avi (2.6mb quicktime)

If you askme Im more confident with the 1/4" mill but the 1/8" is more comfortable to work with because it produces half the noise.

Im in the mid of the cut and postponed the other half for tomorrow to give some rest to my ears :eek:


Pablo

Ear muffs my friend. Shipping to you might be a killer but I've used these cheap ones for a while and they work pretty well: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=43768

Center-cutting means there's a cutting edge along the end of the mill that allows you to plunge into the material and cut down. With the other type you need to cut sideways.

JR

I browsed google images for CC and NCC mills and now I can tell you that the mills Im using are center cutting since the sharp edges meet at the center and there is no hole in between them.

Tomorrow I will try to take a close-up macro photo just to confirm this.


One Side comment, as you know here in Argentina we speak Spanish, but I learned using my lathe and now the cnc router from online forums, all of them in english. So when I need to purchase something I need to translate the english part to spanish and is not always easy I can tell you :)

Today I needed a 1/4" collet for the grinder because the provided one was only 6mm (against 6.35mm=1/4") and I keep called it collet, until the sales guy asked me: Que es un collet? (what is a collet?) after a non technical description of it he understood...

Not to mention more common items like end mills CC and NCC (fresas) , die (terrajas) and taps (machos de roscar), etc...


Pablo

yep, I hear you on that. As a native Spanish speaker myself, I started the other way around - knowing the names in Spanish and having to figure out what to call them in English. I've known "collet" as "porta brocas", "porta fresa", "collar" and "collarete".

BTW, try spraying a bit of WD-40 on the endmill while cutting and you'll hear it quiet for a while. Tap Magic also works very well. The only downside I've seen is that if you apply too much of it, the chips then stick to the workpiece and gum up around the endmill. If you plan to continue with dry cutting, try endmills with coatings. I've had the best results so far with TiAlN (I pronounce it "tie-lan") coatings.

JR

Today I did a brave move... I took apart the electronics test bed from the machine to start building for once the control box...

I did this because I kept playing with a clearly unfinished machine, so basically I forced myself to continue working to the finish goal.

Well, next updates will be for the cabinet, properly protecting the ways from dust and trying to reduce noise.


Pablo

Peu! where are you from my friend? argentina?

im interested in micro.com.ar products :)

wow, i see in your first post that you are from buenos aires.. im from rosario i really want to talk with you, im trying to build one CNC machine too and i see that yours looks great and know from where to order some products.....

PM send to you

Can't help myself, reasembled the machine and did this:

http://peu.net/mods/router67

Routed 5mm depth and then routed all the way to cut the perimeter. The wood is quebracho.

Cutting speed was 500mm/min, plunge rate: 1mm and rapids 3000mm/min using a 1/8" 2 flute end mill.

When machine is finished cutting speed should be more than 1500mm/min

:wee:



Pablo

Just finished the upgrade on the grinder support, not without difficulty and with great help from many CNCzoners. THANKS

started like this:

http://peu.net/mods/router68
ugly cuts arent they?

then improved:

http://peu.net/mods/router70
slow plunge rate was key (0.5mm per pass)

this is what I designed:

http://peu.net/mods/router69

and this is what I got:

http://peu.net/mods/router71
block is 110mm x 85mm x 40mm

:cheers:


Pablo

Started building the aluminium Z this week, man this is heavy, 6.1kg (13.5lb) for the items in the picture, you need to add the grinder, the ballscrew, the motor and a couple more linear bearings... I think it will be near 8-9kg

http://peu.net/mods/router72

:)


Pablo

Looks nice, Pablo. Did you cut that on your current machine? Any plan on how to hold Z up/balanced? Being heavy like that it will slide down on it's own when Z stepper is off. It will also take a bit more effort from the motor to lift the assembly. Some of the other members have used a gas spring.

JR

I used two springs as a counter balance.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10067&page=2&pp=15

Joe

Looks like from here that 75% of that weight does not move up and down, only the plate and router do. How thick are the back and side plates?

Looking good Pablo,
Steve

Pablo, it will probably be a little heavier...you need the top plate to mount your motor and then the ballscrew and it's bottom mount and ballscrew mount to the z-axis.

Actually most of the weight comes from the laterals and base of the Z, the moving part is less than a 1/2 kilo (aprox 1lb), almost the same as the actual setup. Base is 320x135x15mm and laterals are 320x20x60mm

I guess tomorrow I will be able to complete the Z, I only need to do the ballscrew nut-table attachments, and bore some holes, I hope time allows :)


Pablo

On your rail supports, looks to be 3/4" thick plate, bore some semi large holes thru it to lighten things up a bit.

Aluminum Z axis is going to be finished next week I hope.

Most difficult task: adjustment/alignment of the rails, was done today.

http://peu.net/mods/router73

:)


Pablo

You da man Pablo!

What is with the cutouts on the bottom of the Z carriage sides?

Nice to see that old wooden Z removed (read jealous).

Steve

Hi Steve, these cutouts allow me to adjust the block screws, here is a detail of the same pic:

http://peu.net/mods/router74

between the cutouts goes a 1/4" screw that attaches the side to the base (head of the screw on the back of the base)


Pablo

Advanced more today:

replaced the table-ballscrew nut attachments in X and Y with aluminum ones

http://peu.net/mods/router75
http://peu.net/mods/router76


And also installed the aluminum table for the X

http://peu.net/mods/router77

The motor in the table is the Z wich I hope will assemble tomorrow.

X and Y are aligned and they dont bind.

Still to go is verifying if Y rails are square to the table, but I will start that measurements when Z is finished.


Im tired, but happy :wee:


Pablo

I just finished asembling all axis:

http://peu.net/mods/router78

Assembling the Z is so complex that I wrote the step by step procedure so I dont miss any screw :)

http://peu.net/mods/router79

Last picture shows the height from the router collet to the moving X base, which came out too tall. This is due to the redesigned Metabo support and some other post frame purchase modifications.

I plan to make the columns around 10cm less tall, this introduces a new modification to the diagonal column supports that need to be shortened also.

Anyway, there is no binding in any of the 3 axis, I only need to measure if the Metabo is square to the table.

Here is a small Quicktime video of the 3 axis going to their home position via a G53 X0 Y0 Z0 http://peu.net/mods/router80.avi

:cheers:


Pablo

Hey Pablo, couldn't play the QT video as my Apple player is "down" at the moment.. as in permanently removed from my PC ;-) But, now that you have a working machine you can cut another Z plate with the right dimensions so the router hits the table. You can prop up the material with a (couple) piece of wood for the time being.

The machine looks solid from here, how does it handle?

JR

yes, that may be a solution, but I think it will be a more rigid machine if I lower the whole bridge. Right now the travel is 75mm (around 3") so the Metabo arbor plus the lenght of a small tool cover this distance.

I still need to add a slotted table or something in that line that will add some height, so till Im decided your suggestion may be the best option.


BTW, its solid, but since today is holiday here, I will cut something and know for sure tomorow.

Pablo

I would consider mounting whatever I'm cutting onto a jig. The jig would then be attached to the table.

I'm presently increasing my gantry uprights to give me a 7 inch under the cutter maximum material thickness. My thoughts are to use a jig to hold whatever I might be machining, plus I would have the height that would allow me to add a 4th axis.

I did this today:

http://peu.net/mods/router81

I need advice on how to machine acrylic to get a nice finish, I tried low/med high speed but I always get that white stuff.

Other thing I still don't get right is the final passes of the vcarving, the tool seems to plunge a little more than needed and you can see the circles at the edges of the triangle. Maybe is the axis calibration, which is not done yet.

Attached is the gcode, I used a 90deg V-tool


Pablo

I haven't tried it myself, but someone on one of the lists (DIY-CNC@yahoo.com I think) mentioned that machining plastics is best done underwater (or maybe a cooling/lubricating oil) instead of in dry air. Your machine is metal so a little liquid won't hurt it...but holding your work within a plastic dish, under liquid, might be a good thing to try.

Are you a member of that list? If so, you can do a search in the list archives -- it was no more than 2 months ago.

-- Chuck Knight

The white stuff is due to the acrylic fusing....so use carbide or move faster.

I will try using lubricating oil, and carbide tips, I received today a package from http://www.lotchsupply.com/

These carbide endmills break easily... I hope I dont break the V carving ones ...

Regarding acrylic fusing, after cutting the whole part the tip was cool, not the slightest sign of overheating...


Pablo

Regarding acrylic fusing, after cutting the whole part the tip was cool, not the slightest sign of overheating...

Pablo

Try constantly blowing compressed air on the part during the cut, to keep from recutting the chips. Acrylic melts very easily, and yours is definately melting, regardless of how hot the tool feels. You need to keep the chips clear, and move fast to get good cuts. Keeping the chips clear is most important.

I moved at 1000mm/min (around 40ipm) and 1mm plunge rate, monday I will try faster.

Thanks


Pablo

Would you mind telling me what program you used to make that computer drawing? Im looking for program to design things in 3D, has to run on windows 98 though. Thanks.

Time to update the cost breakdown:

My purchase logs is as follows:

8x THK SHS15C1SS 317.5mm long $327 (ebay)
3x Xylotex 269oz/in Steppers $162 (xylotex)
3x PMDX-150 driver boards & 1x PMDX-122 $282 (pmdx)
Shipping of these to Buenos Aires $160

2xNSK 8mm per turn ballscrew 440mm lenght (320mm usable)
1xNSK 8mm per turn ballscrew 224mm lenght (108mm usable)
3x Ballscrew's bearing blocks (Support block + Fixed block) + Nema 23 stepper motor mounting bracket
3x Couplings
$545 shipped to Buenos Aires

2x THK rails shipped to B.A. $190

Frame $340

Assorted screws $30 (this keeps growing)

Metabo grinder $200

Aluminum for Z $40

Drill press $80 (did not have a decent one to make Z)

Honeywell Limit switches, set of 10 (ebay) Shipped to B.A. $40

Mach3 + Newfangled wizards licence $188

Cloth + Shellac for custom bellows $15


Total to date: $2599 :eek:

Still to go: T Slotted table, electronics cabinet


Pablo

After the holiday season, a new update.

I started building the control box, here is what I planned:

http://peu.net/mods/router50

and this is what I did:

http://peu.net/mods/router83

And Im not happy with it, its too crammed, running the cables will be hell and heat will be hard to remove, even with the large fan, so I will start a new cabinet, probably using an old PC AT cabinet.

Suggestions are welcome as usual



Pablo

oh yeah, the old crammed issue. I ran through the same problem when using a large electric panel box. I then switched to a mid size tower PC case. It worked great for the basic stuff but I kept adding stuff like breakout, microcontroller, spindle drive, temp sensors, USB, etc, etc.. and of course ran our of space. If you have the space around your table, go for the largest PC case you can get. The nice thing about a PC case is that you get a metal case (sometimes) where to drill and screw stuff, fans and 12V/5V power supply for your add-ins. Here's my PC case on my machine's log, post 37 (http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpost.php?p=76889&postcount=37) and 38 (http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpost.php?p=78213&postcount=38) :

JR

I know it's been a while since you did it, but how did you align each axis? Others make it a 3-week deal, while you just said "it was hard" :P. How did you center the holes on the extrusions for the rails?

by making the holes a little larger than needed, that way I have play, and alignment is far easier.


Pablo

UPDATE:

Im slowly making advances, I finished the working area of the router by using some 45x90 profiles side to side. I looked everywhere here for slotted tables but found nil, and shipping ruled out importing one.

The profiles are keep together by 2x 3/8" theaded rods.

Also prealigned the moving table (sans the slotted table) to 0.01mm accuracy :), obviously this will be done again as soon I firmly fix the slotted table to the moving table.

I'm still looking for a non expensive enclosure for the controls, I want to avoid using a PC case, but I probably end using one... :)

http://peu.net/mods/router84 http://peu.net/mods/router85

Also I lowered the bridge about an inch, I may end lowering it a bit more.


Pablo

Here is a detail on how I attached the slotted table to the moving base:

http://peu.net/mods/router86

On monday I will probably go to this cabinet dealer: http://www.gabitel.com.ar/murales.html if these arent expensive I may purchase one of about 6rackunits height, it should make a nice control box


Pablo

I went to a local machining expo last week and I was surprised when I saw a local manufacturer machines:

http://peu.net/mods/router88
http://peu.net/mods/router87

Its similar to the one Im building don't you think?

The movements are quite different, since I used ground ballscrews, and this machine (the small one) uses standard threaded bars, not acme, standard ones, the other, the $8500 one, uses IKO or INA (I dont recall) sliders and ballscrews.

I found interesting the fact that we found similar solutions using the limited amount of options of some parts in our country :)


BTW, Im still stalled in the control box case (chair)

Pablo

Pablo, doesn't it make you feel all warm inside when you see others charging $8,500 for a machine of nearly the same design and specs as yours? Not to knock the other machine, it certainly looks nice but man, imagine what you can do with that kind of money.

What do you mean you're stalled with the control box? Need help or just time to do it? IMHO, the PC case is one of the best and cheapest options.

JR

Hola Roque,

After your reply I went to see the high res version photo of the unit, and it turns out there is no ballscrew at least in the table... just a threaded rod...

I can do the same machine for 1/4 that money and Im being conservative :)

Regarding the control box, its not lack of time, something inside me is keeping me from doing it... maybe is procastination or because Im more interested in my other hobby right now (flashlights). Knowing me I know I will finish the box in no time when I toggle to cnc again :)


Pablo

Somehow posting here the other day helped me to put some time into thinking about the control box, so today I purchased a ready made box (only $19) at a local shop and scraped the idea of adapting one.

The cabinet inside usable space is 320x220x100mm and based on that I rearranged the components that I already have from my previous control box design:

http://peu.net/mods/router89
http://peu.net/mods/router90

As you can see, everything is less cluttered/crammed, so now, I only need to put some time into making holes in the cabinet and secure everything into place.

Time will tell when I finally do it :rolleyes:


Pablo

I updated the pictures in the previous post, what a pleasure to work when you have space :D

Added big red button and main switch on front panel, and added power socket and relay controlled socket for the spindle in the rear panel, also added a conector for a remote E-Stop


Pablo

Ok Pablo, you gotta let me know how in the world you draw all those parts so nicely. Are those done from scratch or are they part of a library?

So your machine is up and running, right? and this is just finishing touches to the electronics. Have you cut any cool parts yet?

JR

Hola Roque,

if you scroll up in this thread you will see my 1st control box design, at that time I drawn all the parts in solidworks, all of them are parts which are colored, not real assemblies :) Then for this one I downloaded the power sockets/switch from online free libraries and rearranged the new box

Once you understand solidworks is like playing Lego :)

I need to assemble the control unit to resemble the drawings as I did with the 1st and failed control box.

When I had the machine running with the control box assembled on a piece of wood, I did some vcarvings and simple tests. Here is an example:

http://peu.net/mods/router82

I hope to have time tomorrow to start drilling some holes.


Pablo

And I started making some holes finaly :D

Here are the driver boards on their supporting rails, notice how one side of the board is higher than the other to allow the other board side conector to be properly inserted.
http://peu.net/mods/router91

their location on the cabinet:
http://peu.net/mods/router92

Capacitor bank mounted on acrilic for easy cabinet mounting
http://peu.net/mods/router93

Parts in place to see how they fit
http://peu.net/mods/router94


Pablo

Control box front finished:
http://peu.net/mods/router95


Pablo

Cool box (no pun intended)

BTW, when I did my box, I added a switch to each axis drive. This switch cuts the DC power to each of the drives so they can be turned on or off individually. When powering on, I engage each drive separately so to avoid a "big bang". It also comes in handy when I need to manually move an axis (mostly Z) and don't want to power the entire thing off. Nice to have only.

Nice carving! Logo of a car, of course, the other (than ribs) passion of your country.

JR

Flashlights?

Flashlights?
yeah!, check www.neoca.com.ar I make custom flashlights :)

And I finished making holes, the dremel is asking for a timeout since 5hs ago... and to be honest me too.

Here is the complete box, hopefully on friday I will have time to wire everithing inside the box.

http://peu.net/mods/router96
http://peu.net/mods/router97
http://peu.net/mods/router98
http://peu.net/mods/router99
http://peu.net/mods/router100


Pablo

Control box finished:

http://peu.net/mods/router101
http://peu.net/mods/router102
http://peu.net/mods/router103

Now Im testing it, so far all limit switches, motors, e-stop (cabinet and remote) and relay controlled power output for spindle work OK.

Now I need to make long shielded cables and a conector box for the machine, so no cables go out of it.

:wee::wee::wee::wee::wee::wee:


Pablo

Homing at slow feed rate video: DivX Video (2.5mb) (http://peu.net/mods/router104.avi)


Pablo

The control Box is finished and running!

Using an online maze generator (http://www.billsgames.com/mazegenerator/) I created one then machined it:

http://peu.net/mods/router106

yes, the maze is for real, I dare you guys to solve it :D

And here is a little video of the machining: http://peu.net/mods/router105.avi

I'm happy


Pablo

wow, thats amazing :) can you please remember me where you purchased the structure of the machine?

Thanks

sorry i already found the link! :)

and again dude, congrats, this machine is great!, i will try to build one soon, still saving money to purchase all the things :)

Fantastic machine and some nice machined parts(solved your maze just keep turrning left(or if you prefer right)until you reach the exit). :cheers:

Inpired in this clamp set: http://www.robitek.com/productsmillaccessories.htm

Im making mine:

http://peu.net/mods/router109
http://peu.net/mods/router110

The wood is Quebracho, one of the denser and harder woods available, almost as half strong as aluminium. I just need to make the milled clamp bars.


Pablo

YAY! This is some inspiration!!! I just started my own build just a week ago and we have lot's common! I do also use the THK SHS rails but size 20. SR15 on my Z axis though (that's what I had) but they are very rigid and I'm using two rails and four blocks. Also bought my support blocks from Chan (nice to deal with and low s/h).

I'm going to make my own thread soon so keep your eyes open :)

btw. your machine is beautiful!

If you need something just let me know, a lot of people helped me with this build, and I want to do the same :)

BTW, the machine is being used, here after cutting some acrilic:

http://peu.net/mods/router111


Pablo

Great job on the machine I read from the start to your last post.

I am about to start a new frame using 8020 Aluminum Extrusion as well.

I have a question about your motors, if I am not mistaken you mentioned you were using Nema's23 269oz from Xylotex. I am using the same motors and their controller and PS unit, so my question is, is there any reason why my motors are not running as fast as yours? If I bump up the feedrate to much the motors start to hang. They just hummmm until I bring down the feedrate.
Motor tunning?

I am hoping to build a machine close to your specs. I have some 2 15's (33") and 2 20's (39") THK's The 20's have one block/truck each and the 15's have 2 per rail. I am hoping this will be enough for my new machine (other than the Z axes). Any suggestions as to where to use the rails and or should I get more blocks/trucks for the 20's rails? I was thinking of using the 20's for my bed as I think two blocks/trucks might be enough to hold the table.

I plan on doing the same as you have with-in the form as well with my build.

Any help would be great!

PS. The videos were a nice add on, I watched them all. It's nice you took the time out to take snap shots and video clips etc. :)

Great job on the machine I read from the start to your last post.

I am about to start a new frame using 8020 Aluminum Extrusion as well.

I have a question about your motors, if I am not mistaken you mentioned you were using Nema's23 269oz from Xylotex. I am using the same motors and their controller and PS unit, so my question is, is there any reason why my motors are not running as fast as yours? If I bump up the feedrate to much the motors start to hang. They just hummmm until I bring down the feedrate.
Motor tunning?

I am hoping to build a machine close to your specs. I have some 2 15's (33") and 2 20's (39") THK's The 20's have one block/truck each and the 15's have 2 per rail. I am hoping this will be enough for my new machine (other than the Z axes). Any suggestions as to where to use the rails and or should I get more blocks/trucks for the 20's rails? I was thinking of using the 20's for my bed as I think two blocks/trucks might be enough to hold the table.

I plan on doing the same as you have with-in the form as well with my build.

Any help would be great!

PS. The videos were a nice add on, I watched them all. It's nice you took the time out to take snap shots and video clips etc. :)

Hi,

you are not mistaken, Im using the xylotex 269oz/in motors and they seem to be ok for the machine, I alredy cut wood, acrylic, delrin and aluminium without problems.

In mach3 I use for all the axis the following in the motor tuning section:

steps per: 200
velocity: 3000 mm/min (around 118 inch/min)
acceleration: 300 mm/sec/sec (around 11.8 inch/sec/sec)

Yesterday I made a 3d piece in aluminium and the feed rate was 750mm/min, plunge rate of 250mm/min and each pass I plunged into the piece 0.50mm it worked ok.

For the moving table I used 4 blocks, for the bridge I used 2 blocks, and for the Z used 4 to add rigidity (look in early posts the graph about center of torque)

I sourced my rails from ebay, looked what I wanted and sniped them, I had mixed luck but in the end I got almost all the parts I needed (rails on the bridge could be longer :))

Regarding extrusions, I used similar to 8020, im not familiar with them but keep an eye on how the 15mm rails seat on the extrusion, on mine there was little support area, so instead of the regular extrusion I used extrusions with 2 blind sides and drilled holes for the rail. If your holes are a couple of mm bigger than needed you have enough play to align them with the ballscrew and the other rail.

I have more videos, will post soon.


Pablo

Just a simple update, I use the machine from time to time and Im very happy about the results :)


Pablo

pics , video ???

Jason

Very nice machine Pablo.:)

pics , video ???

Jason

Here you go:

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=4926902660286852227&hl=en

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2288571343575191246&hl=en

These videos show the making of reflector prototypes for the flashlights I create: www.neoca.com.ar


Pablo

Great vid, thanks Pablo.

Jason

Pablo,

I was going to suggest a vacuum, but maybe a snow blower attachment would be better... :)

Great job on your machine!

Thanks for the video, your machine is zooming right along and sounds great!

Este router esta a la venta (http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=380047) :)

Hi Pablo - nice to see your thread from that build - now I have to go back and read it all. Nice flashlights too BTW.

Take care

Harry