Plenty of experience (from a few years ago - not currently into that area).
What questions do you have? SCRIMP is pretty straightforward and simple but it's also kind of a pain in the butt. The hardest part is getting the bagging film in position without pinholes, tears or punctures. I would recommend using a Nylon bagging film if it is compatable with your resin. You can find Nylon bagging film that can stretch up to 400%.
If you are making small runs of highly stressed parts, or parts that need to look smooth on both sides, like a rotor blade, you need vacuum bagging otherwise it is just an option. It has added expenses such as bagging film, vacuum source, seperation vessel, sealing tape, fittings and hoses. It takes a few casts to get it down correctly and you can waste resin if it's not done well.
I, personally, don't really care for vacuum bagging but some parts and budgets leave no real alternative. Plan on scrapping the first three or four parts until you get the timing, catalist mix and the vacuum port position correct. If you release the vacuum too late, you can suck the resin right out of the filiments in that local area near the port. Too early and you don't fill out the part. It's almost an art to get things right consistently, but it's an art you can teach yourself, I guess, it just may take a few parts to get it right. if they are big parts then it could get expensive really quick.
There are so many methods and each method of composite manufacture has it's merits. There is usually one method that will stand out for each particular project.
?? - fire away!
Scott
__________________ Consistency is a good thing....unless you're consistently an idiot. |