Working with structural extrusion

[uscra112]

I'm starting a new thread to talk about specific tools, techniques, and things you need to know about using structural extrusions, since I've used many tons of the stuff over the last 8 or 9 years building everything from guard fences to tool racks to full-blown automatic systems for loading cast iron V-8 cylinder blocks onto the machines my company makes.

There are MANY suppliers of this stuff. Bosch, Parker IPS, AMC Quik Connect, Item Products, MK (German), fall out of my memory without even looking at my catalog pile.

80-20 is one of the better ones for us to use, since they will sell on-line and have a very complete catalog of accessories.

As I remember, 80-20 once (and maybe still) will offer to "kit" your design, i.e. doing all the cutting-to-length and machining.

If this is so, pay them to do it.

It is essential that the cuts on the ends be very flat and very square to make structures that line up right. If I had to cut it myself, I would use a "chop saw" with a carbide-tip blade, and make a series of trial cuts until I had the saw adjusted just right. Since I own a milling machine, I use that when I'm playing with the stuff at home. A milling machine is also the only tool to do the drilling and counterboring that is necessary for using the butt-connector parts that are common with this material.

Hence I recommend again that, if 80-20 will do the machining work for you, use that service. Unless you own or can access the right machine tools. It is not really possible to do the machining work well enough with hand tools.

(If you design so you can use corner-brackets for right-angle joining, you have a chance to avoid the machining problem. Put on your thinking cap!)

40mm x 40mm tube is not stiff enough for our router frames where the tube would be more than about 24" unsupported length. The 40x80 is MUCH stiffer, but of course more expensive.

The anodized surface will work fine a guideway when the mating slide is faced with teflon or nylon, as in the 80-20 "flange" linear bearings. But if you ever cut composites, like MDF, fibreglass, or carbon fibre, or even plywood, the swarf will score the aluminum very quickly. Room for careful design of way covers here!

Most of these companies one or more designs which add a steel element to the aluminum, to make a long-lived guideway. I don't see that in my old 80-20 catalog, but check it out - they may have added some since.

All for now - I'm supposed to be working !

Phil

[80/20surplus]

Phil:

I worked at 80/20 for 11 years and am now with their new division, 80/20 Surplus. We sell factory second hand material at discounted prices on E-Bay.
In regards to 80/20 and your comments above, 80/20 will still "kit package" your order as long as you state this. As for the 40mm x 40mm not being stiff enough for your router frame, have you tried the 1530 (1.5" x 3.0") material or do you need the metric stuff? Check out what we have to offer at www.8020.net and click on the "Garage Sale" icon at the bottom of the page. Listings are added practically every day. If you need something that you do not see on our page, e-mail us.


Thanks,

Tim Cain
80/20 Surplus

[sturner]

There are other players out there that can offer everything that 8020 can offer factory direct. Look into TSLOTS at www.tslots.com. They are an aluminum extruder.
How many divisions does 8020 have now?

[uscra112]

Hello Chip Sweeper:
I'm just offering help to people who may not have any experience working with this material. You and I have similar experience - you selling it, and me using it. I've already built my router, so I'm no longer in the market as a buyer. Plus I get lots of leftovers from the shops I deal with for work.

Yes, I was on the 80-20 Web site a little while ago, and I see that 80-20 does still offer the "kitting", under the "services" button.

Not a bad idea, selling leftovers and drops on eBay. I buy bits of specialty steels from a place called Speedy Metals that does the same thing. Making such small parts as I do, I never need enough to make the minimum at a steel service center.

Cheers!

[sturner]

I agree, if there are leftovers to sell then more power to you.

[80/20surplus]

I just wanted to make viewers aware that you can now purchase through 80/20 Surplus as well. We do have 97" length bars and will be getting more in tomorrow or early next week. We are just like 80/20 Inc. in that we do not have a minimum order quantity requirement.

Thanks,

Tim Cain

[freak_brain]

I bought some items on ebay and it was very nice. I saw a small extrusion error on it but the error was in the t-slot and didn't change the function of the part. I would highly recommend these guys.

Allen

[Halfnutz]

Best way to cut ? I have a bunch of woodworking tools, and a 14" abrasive wheel chop saw, whats the best set up for this stuff? What kind of saw? A 14" chop saw with a regular carbide tipped wood blade? How many TPI? What about my bandsaw? I have a metal cutting blade for it. Thanks.

[JavaDog]

Originally Posted by Halfnutz Best way to cut ? I have a bunch of woodworking tools, and a 14" abrasive wheel chop saw, whats the best set up for this stuff? What kind of saw? A 14" chop saw with a regular carbide tipped wood blade? How many TPI? What about my bandsaw? I have a metal cutting blade for it. Thanks.

I'm also interested in this. I have a 10" miter saw, and I'm not sure of what blade to go with when cutting my 80/20.

[ger21]

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...&s=hi&n=552320

You want a blade with a triple chip tooth style, and for a miter saw, preferably a negative rake angle to prevent the blade from grabbing the piece.

[Halfnutz]

Do I need to buy a new blade? Wont my bandsaw cut it OK? I did find a Universal Cut Anything blade at firsteditionproducts.com that claims to cut any type of metal, but I'd rather use something I allready have.

[trubleshtr]

You can cut it with a band saw, but you may find the ends are not going to be very square after.
That's why most people use a mitre saw/chop saw with the correct non-ferrous blade in it. Aluminum is terible for "pick-up" meaning it grabs and sticks to everything when you cut or mill it. It is wise to purchase the right blade for mitre saws or you may seriously harm yourself.