Originally Posted by zax15uk  Hey JT...
Well sure you can have any shape you like, does not need to be oval or rectangular. When you create the .bmp image just fade out to either black or white (depending on your method, normal or reverse engraving). If you prefer to put a nice border on it you can do that too in any shape, just add it in your photo editor.
Ummmm as usual, way over my head. I'm using raw newlydraw and checking the box "reverse" to get the engraving, heat level determines depth...again the only choice I seem to have is the "sizing" box that is used by the engraving menu. This particular setup gives me a "deep rectangular box" with the image "raised" surface level after engraving.
Now I think you said to use my external program to edit/play with the bmp file. I've already made the image a vector (assuming I HAD to...) file.
I am traveling on business, in Taiwan for a couple of weeks right now after spending last week in Japan, so no time to 'do my own stuff' unfortunately. The business keeps running without me though, mainly CNC stuff and vinyl lettering but I am sure the laser isn't sitting idle either.
The paste version is much more economical, and works great even diluted 2 or 3X the recommended amount. I also found it needs less power when thinned more, and the mark is still very clear. It seems to work best on stainless to me.
.k
Zax. |
Didn't know you could thin like that...NOW it may start to get affordable for a change. Am doing mostly stainless, just tested with the other stuff mostly. What kind of heat setting should I be using? I've found that I need about 7 turns for a pretty good tatoo mostly