I must cut jaws on a regular basis. I use collets whenever possible first choice. I use a set of rings I bought and of course a piece of turned material can also be used for chucking the jaws under pressure and cutting the diameter of whatever you are holding. You can bore a id back into the jaw "short" of running into your ring clamped in the id. Your minimum id and clearance for your boring bar will be the diameter of the ring or material you chuck on. Use the same pressure to bore your jaws and to hold the part to be held. Bore to size or when with the ring still clamped you check to see if the part you wish to clamp will fit in. Before removing the jaws after use I mark each one with a scriber jaw1 jaw2 jaw3 and for alignment. I store them for future use by clearly taping the three together and marking the part number part or customer name on the masking tape. If I cut jaws to hold a diameter which I consider to be the size of the material I will write on the tape 5 inch or whatever because sometimes I can use those jaws for some other job which has material 5 inches in diameter and aviod cutting jaws again. I want to learn more about using the pins and ring to cut jaws though. Oh sometimes I might need some relief in the corner id so the part will not cock. Or you can make sure the clamp end of your material has a chamfer on it.If you want jaws machined without a shoulder then you can cut away the step by removing the ring and changing your chuck setting to id chuck and gently bore it off. You can even remove the jaws after marking them 123 and cut off the step with an endmill on the manual mill. I hope this helps and makes sense. If not ask me about it on a day that I feel younger!
Good Luck  |