I think you should try a test cut first to see if you can safely load the motor for a full cut. Depending on the finish desired, if you use a moderate feedrate, it may be adequately powered.
Such a tool does not remove a huge amount of material. It would be roughly equivalent to 1/4 of the load of a 1/2 endmill cutting 1/2 inch deep on a full width cut.
I'd try 1500 rpm and 20ipm to begin with, climb milling, of course.
As for locating the tool, again trial cuts would be in order if you must have exactly the full radius. One would have to know the actual tool sharpening data before making any assumptions about the location of the tip or body features, ie, there could be a small amount of tangent lead in to the full radius curve.
For general appearance purposes, I would tend to run such a tool two or three thousandths less than 'exact dead nuts on full engagement' because the blend in curve is easier to achieve this way, than to risk getting a tiny ledge caused by overcut or burring. Those last couple of thousandths has a fairly disproportionate effect on how large the radius cut looks, so for that reason, a test cut is in order if your job is critical.
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