I might be able to help you a little. I have essentially the same setup as you (dynatorch 5x10, air handler, Powermax 1000).
The dive you're referring to: I also expierenced this and here's what I found.
- Are you allowing the table to find the "hardstop" home before you cut? When I didn't, funny things happen with the Z axis controller and I had multiple crashes. Try re-homing your machine to hardstops.
- Out of the box there's a feature in the torch settings that slows the torch speed in the corners. If this setting is too high, the torch will slow to the point where it thinks it's not close enough to the material (over-cutting) and it will dive until it finds the correct voltage or crash. Check this setting. Mine is set at 30 I believe (which means it slows the cut speed by 30%). You can actually test this if you want. Make a 5" long slot that has a half circle arc on either end. Create your lead-in at the beginning of the straight so it has to run the full 4" before going into an arc. If it cuts the entire time and crashes in the corner, it's the arc compensation. If it crashes in the straights, it's not.
- I read most of this thread and saw reference to the drag tip being used. Ditch it if you're using it on the machine torch. It's not the right tip and it's causing excessive distance between the torch and material.
In Reference to the "No Anti-dive" comment made by Torchhead: Though I agree (it doesn't exist), this system actually turns off the height control for holes smaller than 5/8", for the last partial inch of the cut segment (configurable), and in other instances. These features are actually used for the purpose of anti-dive for varoius reasons. For example - at the end of a cut segment (say a circle) you may have a lead out. A lead out would have to cross the lead-in especially if you use an overlap like I do (.125") to give a nice finish. At the time of an overlap the torch will fail to get the correct voltage reading and dive causing a crash...unless the height control is turned off.
A comment on shop air: No matter how much you try you will never get the moisture out of your air that comes from the compressor without some type of filter. There are some that you can get from welding supply houses which look like brown toilet paper. They work well but change often. I switched to a air dryer which takes all of the moisture out of the air. They're expensive but consumable life is increased big time as a result.
Comment on consumables: The better shape your consumables are in the better the results. As they begin to wear you can actually see the cut quality begin to decrease at a point. Crashes are especially hard on your consumables as well as incorrect cutting speed, torch fire without pierce (aka dry fire), and so on. Dialing in your machine is far easier with new consumables than heavily used ones for this reason.
Height Control Settings: My software loaded with the voltage set at 132. I have found the best results leaving it at the factory installed settings. The only time I change it is when I cut 1/2" plate and then I only change it to 133.
Pierce Height: I used the factory setting 3/16" with great success. I increase this to 1/4" only when I have material warpage - typically a function of how the material was stored/transported and not heating while cutting (except thinner stuff that is).
Using 60amp consumables, machine at 60amps, good clean dry shop air at approx 70psi.
- I cut 1/4" plate at 70ipm. Dross is easy to clean and in most cases there isn't much (except in the corners where you expect it because it slows down in corners)
- I cut 3/16" plate at 80ipm. Same as above for dross.
- I cut 1/8" plate at 120ipm. Same as above for dross.
- I cut 1/2" plate at 30 - 35ipm. Dross is difficult to remove but the cut is beautiful. I've actually made my own wrenches using 1/2" plate with great success. Any faster than 35ipm and it won't cut, slower than 30 and torch dives. I don't cut 1/2" too often so I haven't worked at dialing it in using other means. For now I live with the dross.
- Based on my other settings I expect 3/8" plate to be around 45 to 50 ipm.
Using 40 amp consumables, machine at 40 amps, good clean dry shop air - here's where I've had problems. Cutting 16ga I cannot get the dross to fall off easily. For the most part it's the most difficult. I've jumped all over the place trying to get the correct results (from 100ipm to 160ipm). All leave good cut quality but nasty dross. Faster than 160 and it won't cut the material all the way...after typing this I realized that I've not tried to cut slower than 100ipm. I should try that. I expect it to be too slow but maybe I'm expecting the wrong thing. Let me know if you've figured this one out.
I'd be happy to answer any questions if I can help. I can tell you I was extremely frustrated when I started using this system because it's so configurable and has many widgets. Once you find your happy place it's actually a very nice system.
Matt