PCB soldering is both a skill and an art that uses science as a critical part of the process. Practice does make perfect
Digikey and Mouser sell soldering irons that are suitable for PCB use. I like the Weller brand and you can get new tips for them - not the case with the Radio Slack stuff as it is mostly imported. Besides, the way Radio Slack is going anymore, you never know if the electronics stuff will be replaced with cell phones or RC models the next time you go in.
A 15-20 watt iron will do a nice job on PCB's providing that you use the proper grade and size of rosin core solder suited for electronic work. The small diameter 0.030" or so diamter stuff melts readily and you don't have to heat the board super hot to get it to flow. WIth care & practice, a 30 watt iron is a bit quicker and easier but it is NOT for beginners.
When soldered, the joint should look shiney and almost wet - not globbed or hazy or frosted.
A neat trick to desolder thru hole solders that is less stressful than the wicking tape/braid involves the use of compressed air.
Tape off the area around the joint to mask it. Then heat the joint with a hot iron on the pin side OPPOSITE the part to be removed. When the joint is still hot/wet/liquidy, hit it with a blast of compressed air from the pin side of the joint (the masking helps cleanup of solder blown from the hole).
This should blow the solder up into the part to be removed. If you do it right, the pins should be solder free, the joint should be solder free (asside from the tinned area) and you can lift the part free by gently prying it up and out of the board.
A badly oxidized solder joint won't melt easily. Sollution: add new fresh solder until it is shiney and silvery again. It will then 'blow free' with the heat/air jet trick quite readily.  |