If there is a spacer between the bearings, you'll need to verify that the inner and outers are the EXACT same length and the ends are perfectly parallel to each other.
THis way, your bearing preload won't be affected by the spacers - REASON: sometimes they used unloaded bearings and uneven spacers to create the preload.
Pretty sure the bearings are mounted DB. You'll just need to make sure you get them fully preloaded when you install them.
Properly grease pack them - usually 30% full. Kluber synthetic is superior lube for greased spindle bearings. Pricey but good. The factory spindles were lubed with generic Andok C. Take time to clean up any crud anywhere. Debris contamination has ruined many a spindle rebuild.
Freeze the spindle and warm up that bearings on a hot plate or with a heat lamp - they should drop onto the spindle. Neither a press nor hammer should be needed or used. IF you get them installed, a heat lamp on the housing and freezing the bearing/spindle assy should enable the spindle to slip into the quill.
Take your time and keep everthing clean enough to eat off of.
Anything more than Scotchbrite needed to clean up the spindle should not be needed to 'fix' the outside of the spindle. Grind the spindle ID upon reassembly while rotating in the new bearings.
Plan ahead to figure out what needs to be pressed together and how you can do it thermally if at all possible. Most problems with noisey bearings are due to ham fisted, knuckle dragging assembly practices.  |